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      11-28-2015, 12:51 PM   #23
04cobra
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Originally Posted by 04cobra View Post
Does the ctek tender get hooked up to an extension cord and then a wall outlet? I heard some people just plug it into the cigarette lighter, but that makes no sense to me.

Just wanting to confirm
Wanting to bump this one, anyone know the answer?
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      12-06-2015, 02:16 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 04cobra View Post
Wanting to bump this one, anyone know the answer?
Yes, you plug it in to the wall. Clearly stated in the documentation for the item on Amazon.

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      12-06-2015, 05:04 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by LAnderson23 View Post
Yes, you plug it in to the wall. Clearly stated in the documentation for the item on Amazon.

Yes, thanks. I got it hooked up and appears to be doing its job. Just got confused as people said they were plugging theirs into the cigarette lighter in another thread
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      12-07-2015, 04:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 04cobra View Post
Yes, thanks. I got it hooked up and appears to be doing its job. Just got confused as people said they were plugging theirs into the cigarette lighter in another thread
Yeah, I don't know what the heck the purpose of that would be...?
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      12-08-2015, 05:26 PM   #27
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The important thing on our M4's is to make sure that u hook up the cord to the battery first. Open the hood, open the plastic red flap toward the rear drivers side, attach the +positive clamp to that (making sure that it lays some what flat so as not to touch the hood once closed, or any other metal item), then put the black - clamp on the plain stud (metal about 2 feet in front of the other connection) that is protruding up about an 10mm. Again watch that there is no contact with any other metal. Then and only then do you plug your charger into the wall (reverse this upon start up, unplugging the charger first). I left mine on for 5 weeks during Sept while I was away...no problems. Just be careful everything clears when you close the hood.
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      12-09-2015, 06:29 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by jewels View Post
The important thing on our M4's is to make sure that u hook up the cord to the battery first. Open the hood, open the plastic red flap toward the rear drivers side, attach the +positive clamp to that (making sure that it lays some what flat so as not to touch the hood once closed, or any other metal item), then put the black - clamp on the plain stud (metal about 2 feet in front of the other connection) that is protruding up about an 10mm. Again watch that there is no contact with any other metal. Then and only then do you plug your charger into the wall (reverse this upon start up, unplugging the charger first). I left mine on for 5 weeks during Sept while I was away...no problems. Just be careful everything clears when you close the hood.
Do you even need to close the hood? I've got my cracked open...I was planning on leaving it that way all winter...should I not?
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      12-09-2015, 07:08 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by LAnderson23 View Post
Do you even need to close the hood? I've got my cracked open...I was planning on leaving it that way all winter...should I not?
It's fine to not close the hood all the way, I just prefer to do it.
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      12-20-2015, 03:32 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by WinterScene View Post
I'm genuinely confused (or ignorant) as to why the battery replacement cost would be $1,800.
getbmwparts shows that the battery MSRP is $326.47. If they replaced every single battery part including clamps I could only come up with $1,200 per this diagram:
http://www.getbmwparts.com/parts/201...agramCallOut=1

Did they give you a breakdown of the costs as I'm not looking forward to shelling out that kind of money in a few years...The $326.47 seems reasonable though.
The part in that link is wrong, those are regular agm batteries. Manually search part number 61217854563 and see the price of the correct battery.
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      12-23-2015, 12:36 PM   #31
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CTEK (56-263) Comfort Connect Cig Plug

Saw this extension to the cigarette lighter. Anyone had success with it?

http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-263-Co...X6PDS16E60JCRS
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      12-26-2015, 06:24 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by raylist View Post
Saw this extension to the cigarette lighter. Anyone had success with it?

http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-263-Co...X6PDS16E60JCRS
Is that so you don't have to hook it up under the hood? I would be worried using that adapter for the cig lighter, not saying it doesn't work, but I don't think I would use it. It was super easy to hook up under the hood, literally 15 seconds
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      12-27-2015, 11:04 PM   #33
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I believe are cars have new lithium ion batteries and charge on a different voltage than the old trickle chargers. I haven't looked to far into this yet.
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      01-01-2016, 03:21 AM   #34
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Yes, they are lithium ion. Very expensive and require an appropriate charger.
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      01-13-2016, 01:04 PM   #35
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Trickle charging

Guys, read your owners manual! It clearly states, Do not connect charging devices to the 12 volt socket in the vehicle (Page 196).
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      01-19-2016, 12:42 AM   #36
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You ought to get yourself a set of these as well:

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      01-19-2016, 06:18 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisdave View Post
You ought to get yourself a set of these as well:

I store 9 vehicles in cold NE every year(in unheated building), from large RV to Motorcycles...from old Bias Ply tube tires (R69s BMW to M4)to modern Radials and flatstoppers are just a worthless purchase.

All I have ever done is separate the tires from the cold cement with either thick carpet or 1/2 inch particle board / ply wood.
Never had a flat spot or a tire failure. Yes, you should inflate the tire to the highest inflation pleasure mentioned on the sidewall of the tire before storing for longer than 60 days.
Or you could waste your money on worthless items such as the above if it allows you to sleep better...just saying

PS: This does NOT mean that there aren't some "Track Tires" that are not supposed to be exposed to temperatures below 32degrees, but we're talking about dedicated track tires not street tires in these cases. I put those inside next to the furnace
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      01-19-2016, 07:38 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jewels View Post
I store 9 vehicles in cold NE every year(in unheated building), from large RV to Motorcycles...from old Bias Ply tube tires (R69s BMW to M4)to modern Radials and flatstoppers are just a worthless purchase.

All I have ever done is separate the tires from the cold cement with either thick carpet or 1/2 inch particle board / ply wood.
Never had a flat spot or a tire failure. Yes, you should inflate the tire to the highest inflation pleasure mentioned on the sidewall of the tire before storing for longer than 60 days.
Or you could waste your money on worthless items such as the above if it allows you to sleep better...just saying

PS: This does NOT mean that there aren't some "Track Tires" that are not supposed to be exposed to temperatures below 32degrees, but we're talking about dedicated track tires not street tires in these cases. I put those inside next to the furnace
how does wood and/or thick carpet help with flat spots? I too store vehicles for a couple of winter months, on concrete, in a space heated garage, but have not heard of the wood method. thanks.
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      01-19-2016, 10:07 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clutchdj View Post
how does wood and/or thick carpet help with flat spots? I too store vehicles for a couple of winter months, on concrete, in a space heated garage, but have not heard of the wood method. thanks.
I'm not a chemist or engineer but it is my understanding that large variations in temperature and humidity have a profound effect on rubber that is pressed onto cement. Moisture is trapped and held under the tire of such an example above, if it freezes and thaws multiple of times, a reaction takes place with the rubber in contact with the cement. This type of situation is not allowed to happen if there is a separation with an ability to "breath" between them. I personally have seen the footprint of tire rubber from this effect on my snow blowing tractor when it is moved after a short storage period during winter. I realize that this example is a bit different because of the type of tread and use on this type of tire, but it does still get out of round for a period of time before it seems to straighten itself out with use.
If you are familiar with any of the "RV storage procedures" that are recommended by experts in the field, tires and cement in those above conditions are a NO-NO.
I don't think there is as much concern on this situation where there is a controlled environment (heated area).
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      01-20-2016, 04:25 PM   #40
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cool. that does make sense. I will try it. its inexpensive enough anyway
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      01-23-2016, 10:24 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jewels View Post
I store 9 vehicles in cold NE every year(in unheated building), from large RV to Motorcycles...from old Bias Ply tube tires (R69s BMW to M4)to modern Radials and flatstoppers are just a worthless purchase.

All I have ever done is separate the tires from the cold cement with either thick carpet or 1/2 inch particle board / ply wood.
Never had a flat spot or a tire failure. Yes, you should inflate the tire to the highest inflation pleasure mentioned on the sidewall of the tire before storing for longer than 60 days.
Or you could waste your money on worthless items such as the above if it allows you to sleep better...just saying

PS: This does NOT mean that there aren't some "Track Tires" that are not supposed to be exposed to temperatures below 32degrees, but we're talking about dedicated track tires not street tires in these cases. I put those inside next to the furnace
I too have been storing my cars on carpet squares and pumping the pressure up to about 45 lbs. Never had a single flat spot on anything, including 325/30/ZR19's on my Corvettes. Save your money!
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      12-25-2016, 09:43 PM   #42
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dont mean to resurrect this thread but, im about to go back to my car in two weeks thats been stored for two months. I didnt disconnect the battery and now im worried im fucked.

any advice? its in an apartment garage structure with no wall outlets so i couldnt hook up one of the devices listed in this thread.
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      11-09-2019, 06:44 AM   #43
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bumping this thread.

i recently had surgery and i am unable to drive my m3 for possibly 2-3 months.

it's been parked at a family member's underground carpark for 2 weeks now. i do not have the charger mentioned in this thread, and there is a wall outlet in the carpark available, but it's several parking stalls away and would require an extension cord of some sort to cover that distance.

can someone tell me is there a way to use this charger, be able to lock the car and hood, and use an extension cord as well? my family member is not mechanically inclined but will try to do as much as she can manage. she cannot drive the car because it is a manual transmission.

any help is appreciated. thanks.
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      11-10-2019, 07:32 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by fabulousprofound View Post
bumping this thread.

i recently had surgery and i am unable to drive my m3 for possibly 2-3 months.

it's been parked at a family member's underground carpark for 2 weeks now. i do not have the charger mentioned in this thread, and there is a wall outlet in the carpark available, but it's several parking stalls away and would require an extension cord of some sort to cover that distance.

can someone tell me is there a way to use this charger, be able to lock the car and hood, and use an extension cord as well? my family member is not mechanically inclined but will try to do as much as she can manage. she cannot drive the car because it is a manual transmission.

any help is appreciated. thanks.
Yes you can use an extension cord, simply connect the charger (make sure it’s a lithium charger, the CTEK mentioned in this thread is great) to the terminal posts under the hood, connect charger to wall socket using extension, close the hood as the charger cable is thin enough to allow hood to close and lock the car.
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