F8X Clutch Replacement DIY?

[Crookie48]

Hello everyone!

I own an F82 BMW M4 6MT and I recently just got my crank hub upgraded!(100% Worth it!!!) I taking care of some other things now that it's done in preparation for more power! I was wondering how hard it is to replace the clutch on these cars or if there are any guides out there. (mine is starting to slip) I found a kit (21212284234) for only 320$ brand new, but when I contacted BMW they are going to charge me $4,201!!!!

I have worked on cars before and have access to a lift and basically any tool I need. What should I do?

[Djdnav]

There’s a video on YouTube showing the process on an e46, and it’s very similar. Essentially you remove the under trays, exhaust, driveshaft, lower trans mount, gear sensor, slave cylinder, unbolt trans, lock flywheel, r&r the pressure plate and disk.

The problem is you won’t know until you tear into things if the dual mass flywheel is worth reusing.

If you have any questions, I’m happy to help. It took me 2 days without a proper guide, and on jack stands with no help.

[Crookie48]

Originally Posted by Djdnav

There’s a video on YouTube showing the process on an e46, and it’s very similar. Essentially you remove the under trays, exhaust, driveshaft, lower trans mount, gear sensor, slave cylinder, unbolt trans, lock flywheel, r&r the pressure plate and disk.

The problem is you won’t know until you tear into things if the dual mass flywheel is worth reusing.

If you have any questions, I’m happy to help. It took me 2 days without a proper guide, and on jack stands with no help.

Awesome! I think I'm going to tackle this next week when the clutch kit comes in!

[Bluer2]

Originally Posted by Crookie48

Hello everyone!

I own an F82 BMW M4 6MT and I recently just got my crank hub upgraded!(100% Worth it!!!) I taking care of some other things now that it's done in preparation for more power! I was wondering how hard it is to replace the clutch on these cars or if there are any guides out there. (mine is starting to slip) I found a kit (21212284234) for only 320$ brand new, but when I contacted BMW they are going to charge me $4,201!!!!

I have worked on cars before and have access to a lift and basically any tool I need. What should I do?

Find a couple of handy mechanic friends and trade their services for some beers.

[dawei213]

Originally Posted by Bluer2

Find a couple of handy mechanic friends and trade their services for some beers.

I love how the default compensation for help is beer. With that said, I'd do it for beer as well!

[Nothing]

How many miles do you have on the car?

[Crookie48]

Originally Posted by Nothing

How many miles do you have on the car?

I have around 55,000 but I've raced the car quite a few times.

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by Crookie48

I was wondering how hard it is to replace the clutch on these cars or if there are any guides out there.

I have worked on cars before and have access to a lift and basically any tool I need. What should I do?

Bring this one back as I'm looking to do the same. I found a video of a guy performing one on an F-series 440i, and for all intents and purpose it looks similar to the F8x transmission.

Any pointers or other guides you all know about?

[nochillm3]

I just did the clutch in my F80 because it couldn't hold the torque after installing Vargas GCs. I have done a handful of clutches in my life but this was my first on a BMW. I strongly contemplated doing a DIY because of the lack of platform specific guides but ended up deciding against it since I was pressed for time and I felt like most people wouldn't even attempt it. I went with the Spec SB55ST and it feels exactly like stock but has some chatter when sitting in neutral, goes away entirely once the clutch pedal is depressed.

That video is pretty on point. I would recommend the following:

• Have ISTA handy for tightening specs/order.

• I would make sure you have Loctite 648 (needed to reattach your driveshaft on the diff side) and grease for the splines on hand before you start. Spec did not send any grease with their kit and I was told BMW dealerships usually only have it for "shop use" so you may have to wait on shipping.

• Use the sockets with "teeth", as mentioned in the video, it is very helpful.

• I'm pretty strong (can bench over 315 on a bad day which is actually relevant to the positioning on jack stands) and I could not body the transmission like he said he did in the video. I'm not sure what the weight/distribution difference is between the two but, F that, use a transmission jack.

• Remove the slave cylinder, it will make the gear position sensor much more accessible to connect/disconnect.

• Speaking of the slave cylinder, once removed, you can fully compress it by hand and it should click and lock in place compressed. Leave it that way when you reattach it to the transmission, it will save you some headache when reattaching it.

I'm sure I'll think of more things but those are the mentionable items that come to mind at the moment.

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by nochillm3

I just did the clutch in my F80 because it couldn't hold the torque after installing Vargas GCs. I have done a handful of clutches in my life but this was my first on a BMW. I strongly contemplated doing a DIY because of the lack of platform specific guides but ended up deciding against it since I was pressed for time and I felt like most people wouldn't even attempt it. I went with the Spec SB55ST and it feels exactly like stock but has some chatter when sitting in neutral, goes away entirely once the clutch pedal is depressed.

That video is pretty on point. I would recommend the following:

• Have ISTA handy for tightening specs/order.

• I would make sure you have Loctite 648 (needed to reattach your driveshaft on the diff side) and grease for the splines on hand before you start. Spec did not send any grease with their kit and I was told BMW dealerships usually only have it for "shop use" so you may have to wait on shipping.

• Use the sockets with "teeth", as mentioned in the video, it is very helpful.

• I'm pretty strong (can bench over 315 on a bad day which is actually relevant to the positioning on jack stands) and I could not body the transmission like he said he did in the video. I'm not sure what the weight/distribution difference is between the two but, F that, use a transmission jack.

• Remove the slave cylinder, it will make the gear position sensor much more accessible to connect/disconnect.

• Speaking of the slave cylinder, once removed, you can fully compress it by hand and it should click and lock in place compressed. Leave it that way when you reattach it to the transmission, it will save you some headache when reattaching it.

I'm sure I'll think of more things but those are the mentionable items that come to mind at the moment.

I really appreciate the feedback brother. I've done a couple of clutch installs on other platforms as well, but this one will be new to me.

ISTA will be a godsend I'm sure, and I've already printed out the bolt patterns and torque specs for the install. I don't know why I hadn't considered that our drive shaft is a one-piece without a U-joint though, so I'll make sure to have some Loctite on hand for reassembly.

As far as sockets go, were all the bellhousing bolts 11mm? I have a full set of replacements/spares coming from FPC Euro just in case, but I want to be fully prepared once I get it up on the lift.

[nochillm3]

Originally Posted by MJ6

I really appreciate the feedback brother. I've done a couple of clutch installs on other platforms as well, but this one will be new to me.

ISTA will be a godsend I'm sure, and I've already printed out the bolt patterns and torque specs for the install. I don't know why I hadn't considered that our drive shaft is a one-piece without a U-joint though, so I'll make sure to have some Loctite on hand for reassembly.

As far as sockets go, were all the bellhousing bolts 11mm? I have a full set of replacements/spares coming from FPC Euro just in case, but I want to be fully prepared once I get it up on the lift.

Almost all of them are 11mm…there are a few smaller ones, 2 at the very bottom of the transmission and one on the driver side if I’m remembering correctly, that are 8mm. I was able to get the bolts out without compromising the bolt heads but I had some extras on hand in case as well. Also, make sure to remove the rubber weatherstripping from behind the coolant reservoir so you can let the trans/engine tilt enough to gain access to the topmost bolt, it’s easy to slide the stripping back on with a little lubricant. Don’t forget to mark the orientation of the flex disc/driveshaft before removing the shaft. The diff side should have marks but the transmission side did not on my car.

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by nochillm3

Almost all of them are 11mm…there are a few smaller ones, 2 at the very bottom of the transmission and one on the driver side if I’m remembering correctly, that are 8mm. I was able to get the bolts out without compromising the bolt heads but I had some extras on hand in case as well. Also, make sure to remove the rubber weatherstripping from behind the coolant reservoir so you can let the trans/engine tilt enough to gain access to the topmost bolt, it’s easy to slide the stripping back on with a little lubricant. Don’t forget to mark the orientation of the flex disc/driveshaft before removing the shaft. The diff side should have marks but the transmission side did not on my car.

Thanks for the heads up man, I'll make sure to get the "teethed" sockets to ensure they bite properly. Driveshaft wise I think my application may be a bit different as with a production date of 04/2018 I'm pretty sure I have the steel driveshaft and not the carbon fiber one. According to ISTA the steel version doesn't require Loctite, and if I'm lucky I may just be able to move it to the side like in the video above and avoid having to remove if from the differential entirely.
Fingers crossed.

[nochillm3]

Originally Posted by MJ6

Thanks for the heads up man, I'll make sure to get the "teethed" sockets to ensure they bite properly. Driveshaft wise I think my application may be a bit different as with a production date of 04/2018 I'm pretty sure I have the steel driveshaft and not the carbon fiber one. According to ISTA the steel version doesn't require Loctite, and if I'm lucky I may just be able to move it to the side like in the video above and avoid having to remove if from the differential entirely.
Fingers crossed.

That would definitely make it just a little bit easier Either way, good luck!

If you have any questions once you get started or think of anything else just lmk, I’m happy to help!

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by nochillm3

Almost all of them are 11mm…there are a few smaller ones, 2 at the very bottom of the transmission and one on the driver side if I'm remembering correctly, that are 8mm. I was able to get the bolts out without compromising the bolt heads but I had some extras on hand in case as well. Also, make sure to remove the rubber weatherstripping from behind the coolant reservoir so you can let the trans/engine tilt enough to gain access to the topmost bolt, it's easy to slide the stripping back on with a little lubricant. Don't forget to mark the orientation of the flex disc/driveshaft before removing the shaft. The diff side should have marks but the transmission side did not on my car.

Quick question: what method did you use to bolt the rear of the driveshaft to the diff? ISTA obviously recommends their "special tool" to affix the recessed nut, but I'm guessing that a box wrench or crowfoot could fit easily enough. Did you have enough room to get a torque wrench in there?

Just in case I have to remove the entire shaft I want to make sure I have the tools necessary.

*ninja edit: I did find out that the differential nut shares the same part number for both E9x and F8x platforms (33127607158), and also found a company that sells a wrench specifically for this job, and for significantly less than BMW would want for their "specialty tool".
As an added bonus, it's also compatible with torque wrenches. Just an option for anyone in the future looking to take this on.

https://www.hpashop.com/HPA-Differen...4diff-tool.htm

[nochillm3]

Originally Posted by MJ6

Quick question: what method did you use to bolt the rear of the driveshaft to the diff? ISTA obviously recommends their "special tool" to affix the recessed nut, but I'm guessing that a box wrench or crowfoot could fit easily enough. Did you have enough room to get a torque wrench in there?

Just in case I have to remove the entire shaft I want to make sure I have the tools necessary.

*ninja edit: I did find out that the differential nut shares the same part number for both E9x and F8x platforms (33127607158), and also found a company that sells a wrench specifically for this job, and for significantly less than BMW would want for their "specialty tool".
As an added bonus, it's also compatible with torque wrenches. Just an option for anyone in the future looking to take this on.

https://www.hpashop.com/HPA-Differen...4diff-tool.htm


Attachment 2754746

I just used a 50mm crowfoot wrench off Amazon for $40.

Edit: I did have to change the orientation of the torque wrench depending on the nut orientation but I never thought to myself “damn that specialty tool would be nice to have right now”.

[MJ6]

@nochillm3

Finishing up the install tomorrow morning. Regarding mating the transmission to the engine again, did you have to wrestle with the transmission shaft to get it to seat correctly? The alignment tool looks spot on and the spines lined up easily enough, but I had to thread a few of the bell housing bolts to close the remaining 1/4" gap as it wouldn't sit flush; I'm assuming just a tight fit into the pilot bearing.

[MJ6]

Just a follow up with some additional tips after finishing up the install over last weekend.

1. Do yourself a favor and use a transmission jack, these things are built solid and have the weight to back it up.

2. Extensions are your friend when going after the bellhousing bolts. To get the bolts back in, I used a thin strip of electrical tape between the socket and bolt head to keep it in place until it caught hold of the first few threads. Get comfortable working in tight spots.

3. Maybe it was just an alignment issue on my end, but the input shaft wouldn't close the final 1/4". I'm assuming that the pilot bearing was just tight, but using the bolts in a crisscross pattern to flush it up worked without an issue.

4. If you have a steel driveshaft, you don't have to necessarily remove it from the differential. The U-joint gives enough flexibility to secure the shaft to the side of the tunnel with decent size zip ties, just make sure to support the rear portion so the residual weight isn't resting on the input shaft in the rear.

Just for reference, on my previous clutch (CM FX250) the catch point was MUCH higher, you could basically move the clutch pedal perhaps two inches down and you'd be in the window. The Spec clutch returns the actuation closer to where it was stock, and makes it much easier to modulate.

[F80_Greg]

Originally Posted by nochillm3

I just did the clutch in my F80 because it couldn't hold the torque after installing Vargas GCs. I have done a handful of clutches in my life but this was my first on a BMW. I strongly contemplated doing a DIY because of the lack of platform specific guides but ended up deciding against it since I was pressed for time and I felt like most people wouldn't even attempt it. I went with the Spec SB55ST and it feels exactly like stock but has some chatter when sitting in neutral, goes away entirely once the clutch pedal is depressed.

That video is pretty on point. I would recommend the following:

• Have ISTA handy for tightening specs/order.

• I would make sure you have Loctite 648 (needed to reattach your driveshaft on the diff side) and grease for the splines on hand before you start. Spec did not send any grease with their kit and I was told BMW dealerships usually only have it for "shop use" so you may have to wait on shipping.

• Use the sockets with "teeth", as mentioned in the video, it is very helpful.

• I'm pretty strong (can bench over 315 on a bad day which is actually relevant to the positioning on jack stands) and I could not body the transmission like he said he did in the video. I'm not sure what the weight/distribution difference is between the two but, F that, use a transmission jack.

• Remove the slave cylinder, it will make the gear position sensor much more accessible to connect/disconnect.

• Speaking of the slave cylinder, once removed, you can fully compress it by hand and it should click and lock in place compressed. Leave it that way when you reattach it to the transmission, it will save you some headache when reattaching it.

I'm sure I'll think of more things but those are the mentionable items that come to mind at the moment.

Hey man, just picked up the SB55-PT version for my 6 speed. Upgraded turbos, stock clutch lasted a couple pulls.. My question to you, which setting did you install your throw-out bearing? "Low or High"?
I believe the instructions call for the "low" setting on the s55. I've heard people saying one of the settings did not work well but can't remember which one. Did you remove the entire driveshaft? Locktite on any of the bolts? Would appreciate a response, thanks man.

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by F80_Greg

Hey man, just picked up the SB55-PT version for my 6 speed. Upgraded turbos, stock clutch lasted a couple pulls.. My question to you, which setting did you install your throw-out bearing? "Low or High"?
I believe the instructions call for the "low" setting on the s55. I've heard people saying one of the settings did not work well but can't remember which one. Did you remove the entire driveshaft? Locktite on any of the bolts? Would appreciate a response, thanks man.

In my case, I ended up calling Spec support to ask them. To be honest it wasn't much help as they told me to just re-insert the TOB at the same height as the old one, but IIRC it was at the higher of the two settings.

I used Locktite on both flywheel and clutch plate bolts personally, and then torqued to specifications. The bell housing bolts I didn't bother with, I just used new bolts and a quality torque wrench.

Driveshaft wise, it depends on which version you have. The CF driveshaft is all one piece, so it doesn't give you room to pull the transmission if you don't remove it entirely. The steel driveshaft has a flexible U-joint though: I was able to disconnect the flexdisk from the transmission, and once the center bracket was unbolted from the tunnel I used industrial zip ties through the underbody sheet metal to hold it out of the way on the side. Just make sure to support the remaining driveshaft back by the differential to avoid any unnecessary stress on the input shaft.

[F80_Greg]

Originally Posted by MJ6

In my case, I ended up calling Spec support to ask them. To be honest it wasn't much help as they told me to just re-insert the TOB at the same height as the old one, but IIRC it was at the higher of the two settings.

I used Locktite on both flywheel and clutch plate bolts personally, and then torqued to specifications. The bell housing bolts I didn't bother with, I just used new bolts and a quality torque wrench.

Driveshaft wise, it depends on which version you have. The CF driveshaft is all one piece, so it doesn't give you room to pull the transmission if you don't remove it entirely. The steel driveshaft has a flexible U-joint though: I was able to disconnect the flexdisk from the transmission, and once the center bracket was unbolted from the tunnel I used industrial zip ties through the underbody sheet metal to hold it out of the way on the side. Just make sure to support the remaining driveshaft back by the differential to avoid any unnecessary stress on the input shaft.

Thanks man, much appreciated! I just remembered my car had the recall for the driveshaft which required the swap to CF. I'll look for the tool to loosen the nut on the diff side to drop the driveshaft. Overall do you still like how the clutch feels? Chatter not too much of an issue?

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by F80_Greg

Thanks man, much appreciated! I just remembered my car had the recall for the driveshaft which required the swap to CF. I'll look for the tool to loosen the nut on the diff side to drop the driveshaft. Overall do you still like how the clutch feels? Chatter not too much of an issue?

Anytime brother.
It's still early on as I've only had it installed for about a week, but so far I like it. The pedal feel is a bit more firm, but I also have the Ultimate Clutch Pedal installed with springs removed; it's definitely a more direct engagement though. There's a slight amount of chatter, but to be honest I don't notice it much.

The diff nut is apparently a 50mm, so a special tool isn't really necessary. I did pick up the wrench I linked in one of my above posts though that would have worked had I of needed it.

[1000hp]

What is the pilot like on these cars?
Bearing? Bushing? Easy to remove, or a pain in the balls?