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      05-23-2021, 04:12 PM   #1
bioman
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First Track event prep in GTS

Heading out to the track in a few weeks and going to drive the car completely stock to get a feel for it.

Does it make switch out the brake fluid?
Getting the alignment checked, but is it a waste to keep everything to the street setting, max negative front camber and track aero?

Anything else I’m missing?
I know folks have said front camber plates, harness and a few other things are a must, but thinking of that for later track days.

Thanks!
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      05-23-2021, 05:34 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bioman View Post
Heading out to the track in a few weeks and going to drive the car completely stock to get a feel for it.

Does it make switch out the brake fluid?
Getting the alignment checked, but is it a waste to keep everything to the street setting, max negative front camber and track aero?

Anything else I’m missing?
I know folks have said front camber plates, harness and a few other things are a must, but thinking of that for later track days.

Thanks!
Brake fluid as a precaution if there will be heavy braking.

Most importantly is being few gallons of distilled water lol
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      05-23-2021, 09:04 PM   #3
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Is this your first track day?

edit: assuming it is, just bring distilled water for the car, buy gasoline at the track or at a nearby gas station, and drink a ton of Gatorade and water while you're out at the track. I wouldn't bother with the alignment, there is limited/no adjustment on the GTS stock. The brake fluid is a good advisement if you're over a year on flushing, water builds in the fluid and lowers the boiling point, and the CCB calipers on the GTS get stupid hot.

Otherwise a tire pressure gauge is useful, you might want to bleed a little air out of your tires after your first session. I think I was running the stock Sport Cup 2s at around 34F/32R hot off the track. You are going to heavily wear the outside shoulder on your fronts, just the fact of having no adjustable camber setting. If you enjoy the track day and want to do more, maybe consider camber plates.

Otherwise have fun out there and be safe. The car really is a blast. If it is your first track day out, I'd recommend setting the traction control to MDM, the base traction control is incredibly limiting even for an absolute novice. I prefer throttle in efficient or sport, I find sport+ to be too aggressive mid-corner. Transmission in level 1 or level 2, manual or automatic. Level 3 will chirp the tires on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift, and this will cause MDM to cut power down straights as you're under full throttle. Steering is user preference, I prefer sport. Some folks say comfort gives better feedback, I haven't mucked about with that as sport works for me.

Anywho, have fun, and if you want to do more, there are a few mods you'll probably want to consider.

Last edited by Gomeler; 05-23-2021 at 09:19 PM..
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      05-24-2021, 07:57 AM   #4
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I would do brake fluid and that's about it.

You're going to destroy the outside shoulder of your front tires if you are driving it hard. If it's not your overall first track day (just the first with the car), I would go traction control fully off. MDM is extremely intrusive.

Monitor pressures and temps while on track - you want to be >150F all around and no more than 34-35 psi or so. You will need to air down as you get heat into the tires.
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      05-25-2021, 01:56 AM   #5
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What track day are you signed up for? I registered for a Porsche Owners Club event in early June at Streets of Willow and noticed another M4 on the entrants list.
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      05-25-2021, 04:56 PM   #6
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brake fluid is a must to avoid any bad surprise

motul rbf 600 / rbf 660 or castrol srf
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      07-07-2021, 02:01 PM   #7
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Good notes on track day prep...

1. Brake Fluid Flush w/ motul rbf 600 / rbf 660 or castrol srf
2. Oil Change (*Redline 5w30*)
3. 3-4 Gallons of distilled water
4. Target hot tire temps 34F/32R PSI
4. HPDE Tech Inspection
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      07-07-2021, 03:28 PM   #8
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Quick question for the group, but I'm assuming everyone has swapped out their OEM cup 2s at this point. I did but I still have them in the back of my garage...I'm hesitant to take them out on my first track day with the car because they're getting old at this point.
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      07-07-2021, 04:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sh4d0w View Post
Quick question for the group, but I'm assuming everyone has swapped out their OEM cup 2s at this point. I did but I still have them in the back of my garage...I'm hesitant to take them out on my first track day with the car because they're getting old at this point.
If you can afford new ones, I’d definitely go with a fresh set. If yours are the original ones, they’re like date stamped 2015
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      07-07-2021, 05:54 PM   #10
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All good advices so far, but it really depends on your experience, if you are a beginner then all you need is a lot of distilled water. If you have some track experience and you are heavy on the brakes, then new brake fluid will be wise. Tire pressure gauge, ez up, a chair and something to drink. And have fun .
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      07-08-2021, 12:50 AM   #11
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Do literally nothing to your car. Just go out and have fun.
Everyone mentioning the tire pressure gauge, I would say no. If OP takes it easy and works on being smooth and finding the lines of the circuit, then stock pressures will be just fine.
Best advice going in with a high horsepower car is to not over drive in and out of corners. Slow in(relatively speaking,) will be fast and smooth out of the turns. And on corner exit be patient and smooth with throttle application.
As I say all this I do not know OP's track experience. If they have tracked other cars then everything I said might not apply.
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      07-08-2021, 08:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spun Crankhub View Post
Everyone mentioning the tire pressure gauge, I would say no. If OP takes it easy and works on being smooth and finding the lines of the circuit, then stock pressures will be just fine.
Disagree unless the OP is doing 35mph touring laps of the circuit.

If you set fronts to 35psi at ambient temp of 60F and then get them up to operating temperature at 170F, they will be at roughly 46-48psi. That's way too high and they will become greasy and slide all over the place.

I would pre-emptively air down about 5 psi in the front and 3-4 in the rear. At the end of each session, check pressures and temps (very easy to do with the TMPS monitoring screen). If you are above 35psi on any tire, you need to air down.

That does mean you will need to air up at the end of the day, but it will make the car much more predictable and much, much faster.
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      07-08-2021, 01:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
Disagree unless the OP is doing 35mph touring laps of the circuit.

If you set fronts to 35psi at ambient temp of 60F and then get them up to operating temperature at 170F, they will be at roughly 46-48psi. That's way too high and they will become greasy and slide all over the place.

I would pre-emptively air down about 5 psi in the front and 3-4 in the rear. At the end of each session, check pressures and temps (very easy to do with the TMPS monitoring screen). If you are above 35psi on any tire, you need to air down.

That does mean you will need to air up at the end of the day, but it will make the car much more predictable and much, much faster.
I definitely disagree with you. Have you done any novice level coaching? I have personally checked the tires of first timers in BMW's and Porsches after a session to find no significant change over starting pressure.
Again without knowing anything about OP's driving experience I prioritize learning high performance driving the right way, and at no point should a first timer consider greasiness of their tires, as they should not be pushing the car even close to this point.
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      07-08-2021, 02:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spun Crankhub View Post
I definitely disagree with you. Have you done any novice level coaching? I have personally checked the tires of first timers in BMW's and Porsches after a session to find no significant change over starting pressure.
Again without knowing anything about OP's driving experience I prioritize learning high performance driving the right way, and at no point should a first timer consider greasiness of their tires, as they should not be pushing the car even close to this point.
I guess it depends if we are talking first track event ever or first track event in a GTS (which was my assumption).

Yes, if you have never done a track day or any kind of performance driving before, tire temps/pressures will not matter.

My first track day with my GTS was not at all my first track event, so things like the car needing camber plates, having correct pressures, etc. were all very important to having a long, enjoyable day rather than an artificially shortened session because the shoulders were corded.
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      07-08-2021, 03:46 PM   #15
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I've seen plenty of novices ruin their tires day 1. I was one of them, left with both rear tires corded. Would have appreciated a heads up from those in the know back in the day.

Depending upon driver and track, vehicle, tires, ambient, track surface temperatures, pressures could fluctuate anywhere from negligible to substantial. Neither scenario would necessarily be an indication of whether the driver/instructor are doing things right.

Never a bad idea to keep an eye on tire pressures and would suggest getting in the habit from day one.
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      07-08-2021, 09:55 PM   #16
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Camber plates. You're gonna wreck the fronts unless you drive at 6/10ths. Keep the pressures under 34 as well or you're gonna have a bad day.

Edit: change the stone filter in the water injection as well.
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      07-10-2021, 07:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell325 View Post
If you can afford new ones, I’d definitely go with a fresh set. If yours are the original ones, they’re like date stamped 2015
They degrade when stored in a garage? I doubt it, I think they'll be fine...

If they were on the car and being used, or baking in the sun, maybe a different story. It's heat cycles that degrade rubber.
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      07-11-2021, 07:55 AM   #18
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They degrade when stored in a garage? I doubt it, I think they'll be fine...

If they were on the car and being used, or baking in the sun, maybe a different story. It's heat cycles that degrade rubber.
They degrade even when stored in a garage, but it's unlikely that's the whole story with any original GTS tires at this point. 6-7 years old in any conditions they're long past their prime. Stretch a 6-7 year old rubber band and observe.

There's a reason why Tire Rack sells new tires half that age with steep discounts. Would not track 6-7 year old tires.
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      07-11-2021, 01:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by maddmatth View Post
They degrade when stored in a garage? I doubt it, I think they'll be fine...

If they were on the car and being used, or baking in the sun, maybe a different story. It's heat cycles that degrade rubber.
They degrade even when stored in a garage, but it's unlikely that's the whole story with any original GTS tires at this point. 6-7 years old in any conditions they're long past their prime. Stretch a 6-7 year old rubber band and observe.

There's a reason why Tire Rack sells new tires half that age with steep discounts. Would not track 6-7 year old tires.
I agree.

I think the more important question is is the 2k in new rubber too much or is it worth risking a failure because of an old tire?

I'd check the date codes. There's no such thing as being too safe when you're doing inherently risky things.
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      07-11-2021, 02:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
They degrade even when stored in a garage, but it's unlikely that's the whole story with any original GTS tires at this point. 6-7 years old in any conditions they're long past their prime. Stretch a 6-7 year old rubber band and observe.

There's a reason why Tire Rack sells new tires half that age with steep discounts. Would not track 6-7 year old tires.
UV and heat degrade tires. If they are sitting in a climate controlled garage, they are fine.

Michelin will warranty Sport Cup 2 tires for 6 years past purchase date, not even date of manufacture, which could be 2-3-4 years prior to purchase date. US spec GTS tires aren't even 5 years old at this point. Have someone inspect them at a tire shop, but they are almost certainly fine.
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      07-11-2021, 03:08 PM   #21
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      07-11-2021, 04:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
UV and heat degrade tires. If they are sitting in a climate controlled garage, they are fine.

Michelin will warranty Sport Cup 2 tires for 6 years past purchase date, not even date of manufacture, which could be 2-3-4 years prior to purchase date. US spec GTS tires aren't even 5 years old at this point. Have someone inspect them at a tire shop, but they are almost certainly fine.
Fine, as in reasonably safe to use on the street, warrantied against explosion? Sure. Will they be anywhere near their best on track? No.

My original Cups are over 5 years old and mine was a late build, November '16.

UV and heat degrade tires more. Unmounted, unused, sitting in a climate controlled garage would slow oxidation and aging, but not stop it. No original GTS tires would fit this history at this point anyways.

Similar to the compound hardening after so many heat cycles, which doesn't necessarily correspond to visual wear, you aren't likely to see compound degradation with visual inspection, but it's there with aging alone.

Keep in mind the Cup 2 compound is key to the tire's performance. And the drop off in (especially) Cup 2 performance due to compound degradation is like someone turning out the lights. You don't want to play the age game with Cup 2s or any track tires.

Again, there are reasons why new performance tires 1/2 this age are sold as bargains. Or, ask any race team if they're cool with 6 year old slicks. If you're venturing into a performance environment with your traction challenged factory BMW track car, no matter the driving level, would suggest it's the precisely wrong place & time to skimp on tires.

Safety aside, great way to underappreciate the car as well. Spoil the overall engineering, and potentially disrupt learning/progress.
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