Crank Hub Issue Master Thread: What You Need To Know!

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by FreeDarko

So what CarBahn is suggesting and TPG offered before is the same thing?

Going off pictures only, they are offering pinning as a solution. It's best to talk to them directly to get full details.

[WIKDF80]

Just to clarify (because no, I haven't read all 27 pages of this thread)

The term "kickdown" refers to what exactly? Holding the downshift paddle so the car shifts into the lowest possible gear while moving? Not just normal downshifting correct?

This "kickdown" is supposedly the primary cause of failure in this part?

[overlook637]

Originally Posted by WIKDF80

Just to clarify (because no, I haven't read all 27 pages of this thread)

The term "kickdown" refers to what exactly? Holding the downshift paddle so the car shifts into the lowest possible gear while moving? Not just normal downshifting correct?

This "kickdown" is supposedly the primary cause of failure in this part?

Kickdown is the two stage gas pedal. Press the pedal to accelerate until it fells like it stopped. Push a little harder and the DCT will drop gears as it is under full throttle. Also as you described by holding downshift down but also under full throttle.

Nobody, other than maybe BMW, knows what the cause of the failure.

[WIKDF80]

Originally Posted by overlook637

Kickdown is the two stage gas pedal. Press the pedal to accelerate until it fells like it stopped. Push a little harder and the DCT will drop gears as it is under full throttle. Also as you described by holding downshift down but also under full throttle.

Nobody, other than maybe BMW, knows what the cause of the failure.

Thank you for the clarification. I wasn't even aware of the gas pedal kickdown And never having actually used it with my downshift paddle, I only assumed the car still used the same "kickdown" as did my previous E90 M3.

Understood as to the actual "cause"... which may obviously include many factors.

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by WIKDF80

Thank you for the clarification. I wasn't even aware of the gas pedal kickdown And never having actually used it with my downshift paddle, I only assumed the car still used the same "kickdown" as did my previous E90 M3.

Understood as to the actual "cause"... which may obviously include many factors.

The kickdown is the same concept as it was on the e90 m3. There is a slight resistance point and then click when fully depressing the gas pedal.

[LOW4LYF]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-S55-M3-...6-652a33aa9fac

[SakhirM4]

Originally Posted by LOW4LYF

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-S55-M3-...6-652a33aa9fac

Would never give $950 to a company that can't even spell "piece". Quality control?

[LOW4LYF]

Originally Posted by SakhirM4

Would never give $950 to a company that can't even spell "piece". Quality control?

Maybe they have their quality control in a different language ... Ships from
Vilnius, Lithuania 😉

[WIKDF80]

Apparently, this is the ticket...

http://performance.vargasturbo.com/bmw-products/s55/

[VeeralS05]

Would kick down in Manual vs Auto make a difference?

[JcLusso]

Originally Posted by SakhirM4

Would never give $950 to a company that can't even spell "piece". Quality control?

[JcLusso]

Originally Posted by VeeralS05

Would kick down in Manual vs Auto make a difference?

Manual doesn't have kick down.

[blockdoc]

Originally Posted by WIKDF80

Apparently, this is the ticket...

http://performance.vargasturbo.com/bmw-products/s55/

Yes. But I don't think the "capture" is the definitive solution (if there is one). Better to do this in ADDITION to actually fixing the hub itself

[///BMW Junkie]

While not advertised as 100% "fix", I'm wondering if the bolt capture would be "sufficient" for cars with up to 550-600whp? I know one guy has been running just that with his PS2 for ~15K miles after previously spinning twice, looks to be holding up well for him. VTT also stated that they only installed the capture on the car testing their new turbos. Can anyone else with only the capture installed chime in? Has anyone had a SCH with just the capture?

[corbs09]

in for data on just the "capture" as this would be the route I feel most comfortable with. I am not looking to pull my motor apart to fix a factory design flaw.

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by ///FASTDAD

While not advertised as 100% "fix", I'm wondering if just the bolt capture would be "sufficient" for up cars with up to 550-600whp? I know one guy has been running just that with his PS2 for ~15K miles after previously spinning twice, looks to be holding up well for him. VTT also stated that they only installed the capture on the car testing their new turbos. Can anyone else with just the capture installed chime in? Has anyone had a SCH with just the capture?

Originally Posted by corbs09

in for data on just the "capture" as this would be the route I feel most comfortable with. I am not looking to pull my motor apart to fix a factory design flaw.

At time of posting, I haven't seen a SPH with the capture installed. Keep in mind, the Bolt Capture is only part of the solution.

Bolt capture will keep the crank bolt from backing out, but the possibility of the cam gear slipping still remains. A 1-piece hub/cam gear solution appears to be the best solution.

[G4BR13L]

Wouldn’t the correct solution be a one piece hub (like Gintani kit) combined with a Crank Bolt Capture (VTT). I am trying to grasp my head around how the Gintani kit provides a solution for preventing the crank bolt from backing out. What am I missing here?

[Baldy_f80]

Got a "maximum drivetrain output not available" dash message

posted it on the ///M group i follow on fb. some said car went in "limp mode"

drove about 50miles till my appointment for service. BMW dealers had the car for about 3 days. Called me back with "44miles ago, you over revved the car to 9200rpm"

here's the email i got from the service rep:

"Hello, as discussed the engine was over revved to 9200 Rpm’s which cause the damage and BMW will not cover repairs under warranty.

The next step is to Replace the crank shaft hub bolt, oil pump gears, friction rings and re-time the motor.

The cost to do this is $7557.35 plus tax.

Labor is $6099.35
Parts is $1458.00

This should fix the car. There is always a slight chance there could be bent valve’s and engine damage which would require a new motor. Cost to replace the engine is $34,420.00 although unlikely but possible.

i feel like I'm getting scammed. it was on limp mode, barely operated, no way the car was over revved. then they tell me i miss shifted. which is also impossible.

they won't provide me with any data.

how do i go about this. please help.
just barely got the car 3 weeks ago.

[G4BR13L]

Get a 2nd opinion.

[Karmic Man]

Originally Posted by Baldy_f80

Got a "maximum drivetrain output not available" dash message

posted it on the ///M group i follow on fb. some said car went in "limp mode"

drove about 50miles till my appointment for service. BMW dealers had the car for about 3 days. Called me back with "44miles ago, you over revved the car to 9200rpm"

here's the email i got from the service rep:

"Hello, as discussed the engine was over revved to 9200 Rpm’s which cause the damage and BMW will not cover repairs under warranty.

The next step is to Replace the crank shaft hub bolt, oil pump gears, friction rings and re-time the motor.

The cost to do this is $7557.35 plus tax.

Labor is $6099.35
Parts is $1458.00

This should fix the car. There is always a slight chance there could be bent valve’s and engine damage which would require a new motor. Cost to replace the engine is $34,420.00 although unlikely but possible.

i feel like I'm getting scammed. it was on limp mode, barely operated, no way the car was over revved. then they tell me i miss shifted. which is also impossible.

they won't provide me with any data.

how do i go about this. please help.
just barely got the car 3 weeks ago.

I think what they are saying is the over rev took place before the limp mode.

The limp mode was the effect of the over-rev.

Do you remember if you money shifted anytime before all these? If you think it never happened ask for some proof of data!

[melvyn]

Originally Posted by Baldy_f80

Got a "maximum drivetrain output not available" dash message

posted it on the ///M group i follow on fb. some said car went in "limp mode"

drove about 50miles till my appointment for service. BMW dealers had the car for about 3 days. Called me back with "44miles ago, you over revved the car to 9200rpm"

here's the email i got from the service rep:

"Hello, as discussed the engine was over revved to 9200 Rpm’s which cause the damage and BMW will not cover repairs under warranty.

The next step is to Replace the crank shaft hub bolt, oil pump gears, friction rings and re-time the motor.

The cost to do this is $7557.35 plus tax.

Labor is $6099.35
Parts is $1458.00

This should fix the car. There is always a slight chance there could be bent valve’s and engine damage which would require a new motor. Cost to replace the engine is $34,420.00 although unlikely but possible.

i feel like I'm getting scammed. it was on limp mode, barely operated, no way the car was over revved. then they tell me i miss shifted. which is also impossible.

they won't provide me with any data.

how do i go about this. please help.
just barely got the car 3 weeks ago.

What a load of cr@p, people miss gears in a manual, if that means the engine is going to blow up then god help us.If your in warranty , then your covered.Any nonsence from them, get a Solicitor straight on it.
When your sorted, go back to dealer and "faceslap"him and put it up on the Tube.

Cheer up, they cannot refuse you if in warranty.

[Ilvez]

Just to get things straight on overrevving claim - do you have manual or DCT?

Originally Posted by Baldy_f80

i feel like I'm getting scammed. it was on limp mode, barely operated, no way the car was over revved. then they tell me i miss shifted. which is also impossible.