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      05-09-2022, 10:25 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninekrpm View Post
Thanks for sharing…much appreciated!

Related, what oil will you guys run?
We use Redline 5W30, same as the GTMore project car
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      05-09-2022, 06:51 PM   #46
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You know what'd be really cool? If they were able to integrate a little oil channel and a dipstick tube on the side of the spacer.

The GT4 oil dipstick goes right where that oil level sensor is.
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      05-09-2022, 06:56 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
You know what'd be really cool? If they were able to integrate a little oil channel and a dipstick tube on the side of the spacer.

The GT4 oil dipstick goes right where that oil level sensor is.
Ha I like your thinking!

Although I'm happy with the electronic measurement, especially in F series cars.
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      05-10-2022, 05:24 PM   #48
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Are you going to just put some mesh behind the kidneys instead? That's been effective for me (and how the M2 CSR does it).
That's the plan! although as you see from the pics, the radiators are pretty beat up already

Another concern is airflow. Even widely spaced mesh still restricts 30% of airflow. Then again, it restricts 30% of airflow but you then expect the radiator to not be beat up and work properly
Becoming convinced this radiator condition is why my CS overheated so badly as it aged
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      05-11-2022, 08:36 AM   #49
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Thank you for sharing your well documented build page! I've appreciated your detailed responses in other threads too and look forward to following your cars progress! I'm relatively local and hope to see one of your cars at a track in the future!

Also, the BimmerWorld oil sensor spacer is a great idea and something I'd like to pickup for my car! I think this can definitely say that Base/ZCP/CS/GTS all have the same oil pan, it's just the spacer that is different - of course ignoring the early magnesium pans.

Quick question: You talk about the Front thrust bushings/brake bushings as a modification for a street driven F80. I am predominantly a street driver, but have read about how the steering feel improves with a spherical bushing on the front thrust bushings. Which one would you recommend for someone that would drive their car in the snow and salt, if at all?
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      05-11-2022, 09:23 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanatic1 View Post
Becoming convinced this radiator condition is why my CS overheated so badly as it aged
GTS2's radiators look great but the GTS1's are all beat up. We'll replace them all as part of the GTMore program
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      05-11-2022, 09:25 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul Coughing View Post
Thank you for sharing your well documented build page! I've appreciated your detailed responses in other threads too and look forward to following your cars progress! I'm relatively local and hope to see one of your cars at a track in the future!

Also, the BimmerWorld oil sensor spacer is a great idea and something I'd like to pickup for my car! I think this can definitely say that Base/ZCP/CS/GTS all have the same oil pan, it's just the spacer that is different - of course ignoring the early magnesium pans.

Quick question: You talk about the Front thrust bushings/brake bushings as a modification for a street driven F80. I am predominantly a street driver, but have read about how the steering feel improves with a spherical bushing on the front thrust bushings. Which one would you recommend for someone that would drive their car in the snow and salt, if at all?
thanks for the kind words

I have those thrust bushings in all the M3s, even if they are driven in the street/snow. They are sealed so I think it should be fine even with a lot of salt use.

The difference is subtle, but it is pretty easy to install at home and has no downsides, so even though so many aftermarket parts are a subtle downgrade, these bushings are an all around positive change
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      05-16-2022, 08:42 PM   #52
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Nice to meet you guys on track! I have to leave a trace on this tread. I'm the black m2c~~ haha

Looking forward on your build and hopefully some of it can transfer to f87!

Drive fast~
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      05-16-2022, 08:57 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butraymond View Post
Nice to meet you guys on track! I have to leave a trace on this tread. I'm the black m2c~~ haha

Looking forward on your build and hopefully some of it can transfer to f87!

Drive fast~
It was nice meeting you as well! I hope the instruction was useful!
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      05-18-2022, 02:54 PM   #54
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Basic Maintenance

Before tracking the cars for the first time we got some maintenance done. You never know what has happened to a car before you get it


Very typical:
-Oil/filter change with Redline 5w30 and OEM filters
-Diff fluid change for OEM fluid
-Diff drain plug replaced for one with a magnet


Less typical:
-Front hubs replaced. Front hubs in the F8X are notorious for losing their packing grease and then failing. We plan to replace these every season hereon. When you remove the front rotors it's easy to tell whether yours are on the way out as the inside of the hat will be covered in grease
-Removal of the front bumper to clean out the radiators from all kinds of crap that have accumulated over the years
-Injectors replaced for new OEM injectors
-Coils replaced for new OEM coils
-Spark plugs replaced for new NGK
-ESS silicone charge pipes. Non metal pipes are flexible, don't heatsoak and will take any amount of power. Being stock, the stock ones are not really a concern, but best to be safe
-Fully pinned crankhub. Again, being stock this is not really a concern, but this is the weak point of the S55 so we might as well take care of it
-BimmerWorld oil capacity upgrade kit to enable 1.46g lateral and 7.3L of oil
-Zunsport front lower and side radiator grilles
-Front and rear brake heatshield removal for more ventilation


Pending:
-BMW Motorsports rear hubs from BimmerWorld. The F8X hubs are very pretty and ventilated, but it is clear they removed too much material from the structure for long term hard use. The M4 GT4 'evo' package brought a much sturdier rear hub which we will retrofit soon. It's a direct replacement so no shenanigans are needed, besides the inherent joy of replacing a rear hub in a BMW
This is a rare failure point, but we saw one in person once and it's not pretty.


Front radiator cleaning



Front radiator Zunsport grilles (not our car)



Old hubs. Note the GTS kingpin/knuckle with the machining marks





New front hubs



Rear heatshield removal without chopping it up. This will allow us to fully reverse the removal down the road. Note this hub will be replaced by the BMW Motorsport part
      05-18-2022, 03:09 PM   #55
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SYT_Shadow enjoying every aspect of this, thanks for sharing as always! I'm curious if you considered pinned-stud front hubs? Perhaps with yearly hub replacements the pinned-studs are less necessary and would add to yearly maintenance costs, curious to hear your thinking though.
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      05-18-2022, 03:19 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
SYT_Shadow enjoying every aspect of this, thanks for sharing as always! I'm curious if you considered pinned-stud front hubs? Perhaps with yearly hub replacements the pinned-studs are less necessary and would add to yearly maintenance costs, curious to hear your thinking though.
It did come up, but we didn't go that route for a few reasons

-BW 14mm studs are pretty tough. We don't break them, especially when installed correctly. We have to post a DIY of a cheater install/uninstall process which is awesome. Coming soon.
-If we keep unmolested stock front hubs on the front of the car we can replace every year for free through FCP. The bearings are the weakest point of the F8X front hub and will continue failing no matter what we do with studs
-The GTMore project will require an epically big spacer that will run its own special studs, so there isn't a long term solve to moving to pinned

In the 12mm world of the E9X it would be different, but 14mm is a different ball game

It's TBD whether the front hubs will even last a season, perhaps we will have to replace twice in a season. Our F80 CS hubs started losing grease almost immediately and the E9X F8X conversion was the same story. The M4 GT4 maintenance interval says 5k km, around 3k miles, so we'll see if we end up doing this once or twice a season. Fortunately it's very easy to do the fronts at home.
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      05-18-2022, 03:42 PM   #57
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Great information. Beautiful build. I cant wait to see in person. Thank you guys for inspiring 🙌🏼
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      05-19-2022, 05:18 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Before tracking the cars for the first time we got some maintenance done. You never know what has happened to a car before you get it


Very typical:
-Oil/filter change with Redline 5w30 and OEM filters
-Diff fluid change for OEM fluid
-Diff drain plug replaced for one with a magnet


Less typical:
-Front hubs replaced. Front hubs in the F8X are notorious for losing their packing grease and then failing. We plan to replace these every season hereon. When you remove the front rotors it's easy to tell whether yours are on the way out as the inside of the hat will be covered in grease
-Removal of the front bumper to clean out the radiators from all kinds of crap that have accumulated over the years
-Injectors replaced for new OEM injectors
-Coils replaced for new OEM coils
-Spark plugs replaced for new NGK
-ESS silicone charge pipes. Non metal pipes are flexible, don't heatsoak and will take any amount of power. Being stock, the stock ones are not really a concern, but best to be safe
-Fully pinned crankhub. Again, being stock this is not really a concern, but this is the weak point of the S55 so we might as well take care of it
-BimmerWorld oil capacity upgrade kit to enable 1.46g lateral and 7.3L of oil
-Zunsport front lower and side radiator grilles
-Front and rear brake heatshield removal for more ventilation


Pending:
-BMW Motorsports rear hubs from BimmerWorld. The F8X hubs are very pretty and ventilated, but it is clear they removed too much material from the structure for long term hard use. The M4 GT4 'evo' package brought a much sturdier rear hub which we will retrofit soon. It's a direct replacement so no shenanigans are needed, besides the inherent joy of replacing a rear hub in a BMW
This is a rare failure point, but we saw one in person once and it's not pretty.


Front radiator cleaning
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...#38;fit=bounds[/IMG]


Front radiator Zunsport grilles (not our car)
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...#38;fit=bounds[/IMG]


Old hubs. Note the GTS kingpin/knuckle with the machining marks
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...#38;fit=bounds[/IMG]

[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...#38;fit=bounds[/IMG]


New front hubs
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...#38;fit=bounds[/IMG]


Rear heatshield removal without chopping it up. This will allow us to fully reverse the removal down the road. Note this hub will be replaced by the BMW Motorsport part
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...#38;fit=bounds[/IMG]
To help understanding the replacement interval. How many days do you usually track the car per year? I assume you guys always bring one car at a time and make the car do dual duties?
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      05-19-2022, 06:14 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butraymond View Post
To help understanding the replacement interval. How many days do you usually track the car per year? I assume you guys always bring one car at a time and make the car do dual duties?
Around 30 days. We usually take two track cars, but we're still working on the tire trailer so we are only taking one track car so far this season - and one support vehicle with 8 tires
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      05-22-2022, 04:00 PM   #60
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[QUOTE=SYT_Shadow;28885349]We're getting questions on the complexity of the install of the oil capacity upgrade kit from BimmerWorld.

The main objective of this mod is to increase the lateral acceleration limits of the oil system.
Stock 6.5L = 1.3g
CS/GTS 7.0L = 1.4g
BimmerWorld mod 7.3L = 1.46g


It's very simple to do in any oil change.

The kit consists of a spacer, a O-ring and a new sensor

Presteps:
Drain the oil as the oil sensor is at the bottom of the oil pan
Remove the aluminum stiffening plate at the bottom of the engine bay

This is what the sensor looks like once you have access to it






Disconnect the sensor




Use a 10mm socket to unscrew the 3 [...]

For those with civic or ZCP models, you will need to install the extended studs that come with the BimmerWorld kit, otherwise the nuts will not have sufficient threads to grab with the spacer installed. The ZCP does not use a spacer.

The double nut method should be used to remove the OEM studs. These nuts are tricky to snug together because of their size. My attempt at removing the OEM studs this way failed miserably (do not attempted car maintenance on a 90 degree day while recovering from covid).

I plan to tackle this next oil change. For now I'll need to limit myself to < 1.4 g.
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      05-24-2022, 03:23 PM   #61
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ohhhh hell yes!! I like whats' going on here!
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      05-24-2022, 03:39 PM   #62
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ohhhh hell yes!! I like whats' going on here!
Slowly but surely!
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      05-24-2022, 03:46 PM   #63
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Upcoming topics

Giro pad/Ti shim test on OEM CCB calipers + Girodisc rotors
Tire trailer
Tire trailer hitch
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      05-25-2022, 10:19 PM   #64
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So what would happen if you put 7liters in the car without installing the new spacer/sensor?
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      05-25-2022, 10:24 PM   #65
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Quote:
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So what would happen if you put 7liters in the car without installing the new spacer/sensor?
Nothing bad. The car would say it's over the max of oil but otherwise it will work fine.
The point of the sensor/spacer kit is to properly measure your oil up to 7.3L.
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      05-26-2022, 10:22 AM   #66
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Hey man...any more info on the motorsport hubs? Any difference from the standard hub on the GTS?

Also any more info on the BW Alcon kit? How noisy is that kit on the street? I'm seriously thinking about switching over to the Alcon kit from AP.
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