F82 Possible Steering Rack Failure?

[c99782]

Recently had my car randomly throw about 7 different codes in the iDrive (chassis stabilization, increased driving effort, drive train malfunction) which caused the power steering to completely cut, and the car was near impossible to drive. Had it checked our by a shop, they said it either needed a software update or a new steering rack, but were able to clear all the codes with the supposed update.

Fast forward a month later, same codes return, this time the car is driveable, but with increased resistance in the power steering. Turning the car full lock to the right it makes some slight clicking noises, but they are very faint and sound more mechanical than anything. Car is lowered on EMD springs, and the steering rack might be prematurely worn due to some past alignment/caster issues, but still wouldn't make sense how this would happen after only 40k miles on a 2015 car. If anyone has any input, thoughts, or past experiences they can possibly share it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[bana41]

Originally Posted by caf82

Recently had my car randomly throw about 7 different codes in the iDrive (chassis stabilization, increased driving effort, drive train malfunction) which caused the power steering to completely cut, and the car was near impossible to drive. Had it checked our by a shop, they said it either needed a software update or a new steering rack, but were able to clear all the codes with the supposed update.

Fast forward a month later, same codes return, this time the car is driveable, but with increased resistance in the power steering. Turning the car full lock to the right it makes some slight clicking noises, but they are very faint and sound more mechanical than anything. Car is lowered on EMD springs, and the steering rack might be prematurely worn due to some past alignment/caster issues, but still wouldn't make sense how this would happen after only 40k miles on a 2015 car. If anyone has any input, thoughts, or past experiences they can possibly share it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Originally Posted by caf82

Recently had my car randomly throw about 7 different codes in the iDrive (chassis stabilization, increased driving effort, drive train malfunction) which caused the power steering to completely cut, and the car was near impossible to drive. Had it checked our by a shop, they said it either needed a software update or a new steering rack, but were able to clear all the codes with the supposed update.

Fast forward a month later, same codes return, this time the car is driveable, but with increased resistance in the power steering. Turning the car full lock to the right it makes some slight clicking noises, but they are very faint and sound more mechanical than anything. Car is lowered on EMD springs, and the steering rack might be prematurely worn due to some past alignment/caster issues, but still wouldn't make sense how this would happen after only 40k miles on a 2015 car. If anyone has any input, thoughts, or past experiences they can possibly share it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

My car just threw me the same codes last weekend. 16, F80. I took it to a local bimmer specialist shop and he also cleared my codes. A lot of them were pointing towards the EPS being faulty. He recommended to replace the faulty EPS module but it's coming out to almost 4k

[c99782]

Originally Posted by bana41

My car just threw me the same codes last weekend. 16, F80. I took it to a local bimmer specialist shop and he also cleared my codes. A lot of them were pointing towards the EPS being faulty. He recommended to replace the faulty EPS module but it's coming out to almost 4k

Ended up fixing the issue on my own. I performed a few DME resets via BM3 and did a drive cycle (approx. 200 miles) and it never returned. If you have access to anything that can do so I'd recommend doing that before spending any money. Shop I had taken to also quoted the work being 4k.

EPS should, theoretically, never fail on these cars as long as there is an electrical power supply - if the battery isn't dying this shouldn't happen. If your car drives normally