Nitron R1 on track

[bipp]

Glad to see someone else in NorCal with the OGSM R1! Pretty similar to my experience for street driving, albeit I came from OEM and felt a bit more NVH (with a 3 year older, very much rattly car though). For what it is worth, I forgot to adjust my front knobs back to the street settings after the car was towed back from Thunderhill, and street driving at 4 clicks from hard was... surprisingly liveable? I was questioning myself a bit but it's surprisingly composed, so it didn't occur to me until maybe 2 or 3 weeks afterwards. Car looks great too!

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by bipp

Glad to see someone else in NorCal with the OGSM R1! Pretty similar to my experience for street driving, albeit I came from OEM and felt a bit more NVH (with a 3 year older, very much rattly car though). For what it is worth, I forgot to adjust my front knobs back to the street settings after the car was towed back from Thunderhill, and street driving at 4 clicks from hard was... surprisingly liveable? I was questioning myself a bit but it's surprisingly composed, so it didn't occur to me until maybe 2 or 3 weeks afterwards. Car looks great too!

Similarly, I find running track damper settings to be civilized on the street. Well designed high-speed blow-off valves absorb large bumps on the street and keep things compliant even on higher track damper settings. I usually split the damper settings between track and full soft because I still prefer a car that reacts well on the street. Too soft makes the car feel like it’s wobbling uncontrollably in all directions.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Just drove the car around the canyons after finishing up install.
Tested dampers at 10/24 clicks to see how they road. (4 clicks from soft for streets / 4 clicks from stiff for track is recommendation)
Ride height is pretty solid on 18"s and need to finalize the rake. Getting a corner balance next week. Hopefully a track day around the first week or two of December for some real data.

Initial Impressions:

• The street compliance is only a little bit rougher than my old 300/600 spring rate setup on TC Klines. They feel very much like my buddies old Ohlins R/T. Still totally acceptable and most people wouldnt have any issue with the street manors. Id say 10-15% more stiffness from the Klines. If I dial the clicks down to 4 it might be a tossup.
• The car feels a little more on rails. Going into a turn, the car has much less body roll and loads up a little cleaner.
• The steering wheel has a decent amount of extra road feel coming through my hands. Almost feels similar when you upgrade the front monoball arm, an extra level of road feel on top.
• No additional NVH or noise compared to old setup.

Install notes:

• The ride height adjustment is MUCH better than the TC Klines. Can raise and lower the height with complete ease. Dont need to undo the rear control arm bolt to change rear perch height. Everything spins with little effort and resistance. Spun it by hand most the way. The perch spanner tools are also real nice.
• The 3x caster bolts that are used on OEM brace I mentioned in last post are not super annoying to install. Wasnt too bad after all. Still not my favorite design.
• The rear perch is set just about half way on threads. The front perch is about 1 inch from the top thread. (the pics earlier are not representative of how car is setup post install)

Lowering the rear about 3/4” and the front around 1/2” should put your car in the right window for corner balancing ride heights with a +/-1/2-3/4 of a turn at each corner to eliminate cross weights. Basically, you want the front height at the center of the jack pad (on the chassis, not the plastic pad) to be 3/8”-1/2” lower than the center of the rear jack pad (again, measured on the chassis). Set your rear height first and then set the front rake.

[F80 M3 LTW]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Lowering the rear about 3/4” and the front around 1/2” should put your car in the right window for corner balancing ride heights with a +/-1/2-3/4 of a turn at each corner to eliminate cross weights. Basically, you want the front height at the center of the jack pad (on the chassis, not the plastic pad) to be 3/8”-1/2” lower than the center of the rear jack pad (again, measured on the chassis). Set your rear height first and then set the front rake.

That’s really interesting that you can eyeball the appropriate starting ride height. Do you have a guideline / target for a desired amount of lowering (prior to corner weights)? I set my R1s somewhat close to oem ride height and had corner weights done from there. Thinking that would maintain the right geometry.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by F80 M3 LTW

That’s really interesting that you can eyeball the appropriate starting ride height. Do you have a guideline / target for a desired amount of lowering (prior to corner weights)? I set my R1s somewhat close to oem ride height and had corner weights done from there. Thinking that would maintain the right geometry.

This is a rule-of-thumb approach BW started using on e46 M3s (could have been on the e36 but I started working with them in ~2002. Each generation has a slightly different front rake. It basically puts the ride heights, which will ultimately all be different, close to where they should be for the cross weights. On my e46 M3, after setting the rack, it required +/-1/4 turns to dial out the cross weights. Basically, I paid for a corner balance I didn’t really need. I’ve had similar results with both of my e92 M3s and my f82.

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Lowering the rear about 3/4” and the front around 1/2” should put your car in the right window for corner balancing ride heights with a +/-1/2-3/4 of a turn at each corner to eliminate cross weights. Basically, you want the front height at the center of the jack pad (on the chassis, not the plastic pad) to be 3/8”-1/2” lower than the center of the rear jack pad (again, measured on the chassis). Set your rear height first and then set the front rake.

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

This is a rule-of-thumb approach BW started using on e46 M3s (could have been on the e36 but I started working with them in ~2002. Each generation has a slightly different front rake. It basically puts the ride heights, which will ultimately all be different, close to where they should be for the cross weights. On my e46 M3, after setting the rack, it required +/-1/4 turns to dial out the cross weights. Basically, I paid for a corner balance I didn’t really need. I’ve had similar results with both of my e92 M3s and my f82.

Yeah, i feel like im going to have the same thing happen with my balance. Will only need a real minor tweak on each corner to level out.

I took detailed notes of how my old Klines were setup and noticed that the driver side had a few extra spins like you mention and I mimicked the same thing on my install.

Measured my rake last night and nearly hit it dead on without even measuring for it once! May be ~1/8 of an inch off. Something tells me since the rake is nearly perfect that I am in the ballpark of 50/50. Was around 51/49 when i did E46M the same way.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Yeah, i feel like im going to have the same thing happen with my balance. Will only need a real minor tweak on each corner to level out.

I took detailed notes of how my old Klines were setup and noticed that the driver side had a few extra spins like you mention and I mimicked the same thing on my install.

Measured my rake last night and nearly hit it dead on without even measuring for it once! May be ~1/8 of an inch off. Something tells me since the rake is nearly perfect that I am in the ballpark of 50/50. Was around 51/49 when i did E46M the same way.

Nice! My ballpark was for a f82. Not sure what it is for the f80.

[F80 M3 LTW]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

This is a rule-of-thumb approach BW started using on e46 M3s (could have been on the e36 but I started working with them in ~2002. Each generation has a slightly different front rake. It basically puts the ride heights, which will ultimately all be different, close to where they should be for the cross weights. On my e46 M3, after setting the rack, it required +/-1/4 turns to dial out the cross weights. Basically, I paid for a corner balance I didn’t really need. I’ve had similar results with both of my e92 M3s and my f82.

Understood. I get the relationship front to rear and the target for the take. Another question, since your suggestion was an amount of lowering both front and rear, is there an optimal target for lowering on coilovers? On my old e46 m3 people back in the day would suggest measuring from center hub to fender a certain amount to start, then fine tune for corner weights.

Since I started with mine close to oem height I was going to lower it some. Didn’t know if there was a “known” starting point. Maybe I snag the measurements posted.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by F80 M3 LTW

Understood. I get the relationship front to rear and the target for the take. Another question, since your suggestion was an amount of lowering both front and rear, is there an optimal target for lowering on coilovers? On my old e46 m3 people back in the day would suggest measuring from center hub to fender a certain amount to start, then fine tune for corner weights.

Since I started with mine close to oem height I was going to lower it some. Didn’t know if there was a “known” starting point. Maybe I snag the measurements posted.

Lowering heights and rake are measured at the center of the jack pads (on metal chassis). The lowering is all measured relative to the jack pads/door seal. Look at the picture Driver407 included in post #28. With 6 3/8” rear and 5 5/8” front measurements. My measurement location is a little different but same goal. Set rear height first (I’m typically 5.25-5.5” rear but I measure lower down on the seal and then a forward rake of 0.375-0.50” to define the front height of 4.875-5.0”). I also use the NRW alum jack pads (mine are a little different because they are from the original group buy. I’ve never converted to the ride heights measured from the bottom wheel lip to the fender

You could use the bottom wheel lip to the fender to set the rear height and then set the front height using the 0.375”-0.50” rake from rear jack pad pocketed bottom to front jack pad pocketed bottom.

I don’t have a good picture on a flat surface; however, if you can picture lowering the rear ~0.9” and raising the front by an 0.125” that’s the corner balanced heights.

[Driver407]

Install Notes:
One last thing about the install worth noting. I had to email Nitron about it. The information was not online or in the manuals...

• The damper should be oriented as seen in this pic. Clevis bolt facing forward. (Some pictures online have it shown incorrect with the bolt facing inward, toward the body)

• The rear clevis bolt that connects the top hat has a torque spec of 50nm / 36.88 ft-lbs. (circled above)

• The allen bolt that hold the rear hat to the clevis needs to be properly hand tightened down. Purple circle in pic. (It will make noise if you don't)

Car was corner balanced today and I have been cruising around on 4 clicks soft the last 2 days. Still very smooth, just shy of my TC Kline setup for compliance.
The camber plates max out at -4.22 front right and -3.65 front left. There is a fairly large difference in max camber between sides. Worth noting. (If you want equal camber then your max available camber will be -3.65 for both sides)

[M3SQRD]

That’s a very large difference in left side to right side camber. Is there a difference in the design of the camber plates? If not, I’d add ask Nitron to explain why there’s such a large difference in camber. With the TCK camber plates, did you have any issues with setting camber?

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

That’s a very large difference in left side to right side camber. Is there a difference in the design of the camber plates? If not, I’d add ask Nitron to explain why there’s such a large difference in camber. With the TCK camber plates, did you have any issues with setting camber?

Had the alignment done for -3 camber.
I just started running over 3+ camber with my new wheel setup to tuck them under fender. Never had an alignment to see what i was running on Klines at max camber. Was just sending plate to the edge on both sides. Only done 2 events on new 10.5 wheel setup.

Both plates are set in the same configuration.
I'm not sure I care too much. Just weird.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Had the alignment done for -3 camber.
I just started running over 3+ camber with my new wheel setup to tuck them under fender. Never had an alignment to see what i was running on Klines at max camber. Was just sending plate to the edge on both sides. Only done 2 events on new 10.5 wheel setup.

Both plates are set in the same configuration.
I'm not sure I care too much. Just weird.

A max of -3.65 deg is definitely low for a camber plate. Camber plates should be able to reach at least roughly -4.0 deg. Is -3.0 deg camber and zero total toe your street or track setting? A front camber of -3.0 deg is insufficient for a lot of 200TW tires and is too low for Hoosier, Toyo, Michelin and Pirelli slicks. The biggest differences in SHCS positions are the two horizontal blue (camber) and vertical blue (castor) lines. There’s a small difference in location of the two yellow lines (also camber). The passage side blue circle shows a visible castor feature which is completely covered on the driver side. It appears things may be somehow rotated about the SHCS where the yellow lines are located but I don’t see how. Is there any play between the five camber plate SHCSs that secure the camber plates to the strut towers? Having TCK camber, castor and toe settings would have been helpful distinguishing between a car

[Driver407]

Couldnt resist my tradition of Sonoma in November. Buddy hooked me up with double run groups (8x 20m sessions) and had a chance to test the Nitrons out.

Havent ran Sonoma since the repave with the F80. Pre-repave I had done a 1:51.81. (On these same tires when they were new last November)
Brought my old (20+ HC) Conti ECF outa storage and went to town.
Car is basically the same build/mods as last year. Only difference is Nitrons and cycled tires.
Was finally able to snag a sub 50 lap. 1:49.48

TLDR

• Ran them with 10/24 clicks front and 8/24 Clicks rear as a benchmark. Was really happy with that setting and didn't feel the need to change. Will try fine tuning next event at thunderhill/hometrack. Took me a session or two before I knew what to expect and felt comfortable with the Nitrons. Started to push for normal pace in session three. Ended up PB'n on second lap.

• Car felt very good on track. Taking corners is a whole new thing. Car does not pitch or roll nearly as bad. More of the "on rails" sorta feel I had in the canyons. Not extreme but it is more reactive and stable overall.

• The added overall stiffness does cause it to be a little unpredictable on bumps and areas that aren't perfectly smooth. First few sessions I had to catch the wheel a few times, where I wouldn't have had to on my old setup. By the end of the day I was really in the groove with them tho. Just had to retrain what to expect. Was a large rate change.

• Tire wear is usually going to go up on stiffer springs. However, I was so soft on my old setup that it may have been negatively impacting tire wear and even braking dynamics. I felt like my tire wear was much better than normal today and my AP Racing BBK felt like it was doing more than normal. Haven't really figured that out yet. Still digesting the day.

• Definitely an upgrade from my old TC Kline setup. Not extreme but tangible.

• Was able to put the power down coming out of corners better. Mid corner as you go from coasting/braking into the power - It feels more linear in grip. Where on the softer setup it would require less throttle to ease into the low-end torque. With the Nitrons, I was able to be more aggressive on throttle application.

More to come!

[F80 M3 LTW]

Great lap and sounds like a great first outting.

More aggressive getting on throttle is exactly one of the main points I say about the upgrade. The other is poise at the limit. For me body roll, stiffness, etc didn’t feel dramatic or jump out for me.

I’ve settled on 12/24 front and 12/24 rear. I slowly work my way up to 10 front and rear then jumped to try 16/24F and 16/24R and that didn’t feel as good.

For me my exit speeds all got faster almost across the whole track that I had to rewire my head around the braking zones.

[SCMTX]

I feel the need to offer my .02 to the thread.

I had an f87c with the Inertia/OGSM R1s, loved that setup. I agree the castor is kind of a pita if you need to get under the carbon strut brace for anything. I ended up at 800/1000. I felt like I was getting too much squat under acceleration. Last tires on the car were 295 square CRS V2. I only had an aftermarket front bar, in hindsight, maybe the “squat” was rear roll? I absolutely loved these coilovers. For the street and track I am basically running what the OP is, a few clicks from max soft and max stiff. On rough concrete roads it’s bearable, on any asphalt it’s fine, even in the track setting.

Now I have an F80. Nitron elec-trims Inertia Spec. These are kind of a off-spec build, Eibach springs (what Chris could get at the time). I’m at 800ish and 1026ish divorced. The settings and valving took a significant adjustment, but I think Chris has it pretty dialed in now. I’m happy, significant differences between the settings. I’m still waiting on being able to purchase the Nitron controller, I hope this will enable me to get additional adjustment. This process was a journey though. Chris at Inertia was great to work with and provided great support.

I need to go out and measure my ride height and rake vs what is mentioned in this thread. I think I have too much rake currently though. The stance is just about perfect as far as wheel gap, but the rear probably needs to come down, or lift the front up. After my last track day I move my front H&R bar to the stiffer setting. Now I need to install the rear…this weekend? I will also drill another hole to have some adjustability in the rear.

Looking at these pics, my left rear is compressing quite a bit more than right rear. Different speeds and loading in these pics though. Right rear isn’t getting close to left rear. Definitely need the rear bar installed. 295 square Proxes R, 2nd day on these tires…I’m not a fan.

OP glad you like the Nitrons!

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by SCMTX

I feel the need to offer my .02 to the thread.

I had an f87c with the Inertia/OGSM R1s, loved that setup. I agree the castor is kind of a pita if you need to get under the carbon strut brace for anything. I ended up at 800/1000. I felt like I was getting too much squat under acceleration. Last tires on the car were 295 square CRS V2. I only had an aftermarket front bar, in hindsight, maybe the “squat” was rear roll? I absolutely loved these coilovers. For the street and track I am basically running what the OP is, a few clicks from max soft and max stiff. On rough concrete roads it’s bearable, on any asphalt it’s fine, even in the track setting.

Now I have an F80. Nitron elec-trims Inertia Spec. These are kind of a off-spec build, Eibach springs (what Chris could get at the time). I’m at 800ish and 1026ish divorced. The settings and valving took a significant adjustment, but I think Chris has it pretty dialed in now. I’m happy, significant differences between the settings. I’m still waiting on being able to purchase the Nitron controller, I hope this will enable me to get additional adjustment. This process was a journey though. Chris at Inertia was great to work with and provided great support.

I need to go out and measure my ride height and rake vs what is mentioned in this thread. I think I have too much rake currently though. The stance is just about perfect as far as wheel gap, but the rear probably needs to come down, or lift the front up. After my last track day I move my front H&R bar to the stiffer setting. Now I need to install the rear…this weekend? I will also drill another hole to have some adjustability in the rear.

Looking at these pics, my left rear is compressing quite a bit more than right rear. Different speeds and loading in these pics though. Right rear isn’t getting close to left rear. Definitely need the rear bar installed. 295 square Proxes R, 2nd day on these tires…I’m not a fan.

OP glad you like the Nitrons!

This is part of why I chose to keep my ride height roughly at OEM this go around. (I did end up 1/8in higher all around from the stance pic earlier)

I was compressing and rubbing on certain areas just like yours, on old coilovers/ride height/spring rates. Just wanted to remove the issue completely this time, at the loss of looking cool and having perfect wheel gap. I dont mind it. Optimal clearance and track geometry > looking cool.

I have a sway bar on my e46 but never did one on the f80. Never felt it 100% needed it. Debated doing a rear when I had my subframe dropped for dual diff bracket but opted to keep it stock for daily life. Hopefully you know that dropping subframe is part of the rear sway bar job! Not a simple swap out.

[SCMTX]

Originally Posted by Driver407

This is part of why I chose to keep my ride height roughly at OEM this go around. (I did end up 1/8in higher all around from the stance pic earlier)

I was compressing and rubbing on certain areas just like yours, on old coilovers/ride height/spring rates. Just wanted to remove the issue completely this time, at the loss of looking cool and having perfect wheel gap. I dont mind it. Optimal clearance and track geometry > looking cool.

I have a sway bar on my e46 but never did one on the f80. Never felt it 100% needed it. Debated doing a rear when I had my subframe dropped for dual diff bracket but opted to keep it stock for daily life. Hopefully you know that dropping subframe is part of the rear sway bar job! Not a simple swap out.

Good points. Yeah, I know I’m dropping the subframe for clearance. I did it on my old e92. It’s not fun, but not horrible either.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Couldnt resist my tradition of Sonoma in November. Buddy hooked me up with double run groups (8x 20m sessions) and had a chance to test the Nitrons out.

Havent ran Sonoma since the repave with the F80. Pre-repave I had done a 1:51.81. (On these same tires when they were new last November)
Brought my old (20+ HC) Conti ECF outa storage and went to town.
Car is basically the same build/mods as last year. Only difference is Nitrons and cycled tires.
Was finally able to snag a sub 50 lap. 1:49.48

TLDR

• Ran them with 10/24 clicks front and 8/24 Clicks rear as a benchmark. Was really happy with that setting and didn't feel the need to change. Will try fine tuning next event at thunderhill/hometrack. Took me a session or two before I knew what to expect and felt comfortable with the Nitrons. Started to push for normal pace in session three. Ended up PB'n on second lap.

• Car felt very good on track. Taking corners is a whole new thing. Car does not pitch or roll nearly as bad. More of the "on rails" sorta feel I had in the canyons. Not extreme but it is more reactive and stable overall.

• The added overall stiffness does cause it to be a little unpredictable on bumps and areas that aren't perfectly smooth. First few sessions I had to catch the wheel a few times, where I wouldn't have had to on my old setup. By the end of the day I was really in the groove with them tho. Just had to retrain what to expect. Was a large rate change.

• Tire wear is usually going to go up on stiffer springs. However, I was so soft on my old setup that it may have been negatively impacting tire wear and even braking dynamics. I felt like my tire wear was much better than normal today and my AP Racing BBK felt like it was doing more than normal. Haven't really figured that out yet. Still digesting the day.

• Definitely an upgrade from my old TC Kline setup. Not extreme but tangible.

• Was able to put the power down coming out of corners better. Mid corner as you go from coasting/braking into the power - It feels more linear in grip. Where on the softer setup it would require less throttle to ease into the low-end torque. With the Nitrons, I was able to be more aggressive on throttle application.

More to come!

Great laps!

Few questions:
- Are those settings from soft or full stiff on the dampers?
- If those are 295 ECFs - any chance you're on 18x10.5s? Also, any chance 295 ECFs have a rat's chance in hell at fitting up front with the Nitrons? I needed a 5mm spacer just to clear 275 ECFs... but not sure if there's any trickery that can be done with spring length and maybe even shaving the inner tire protector or the shorter diameter of the 295/30.


Tbh, knowing that the Nitron plates can get up to -3.6 is good to hear. I don't plan on ever running non-OEM arms but I do hope to be able to run 295s one day just for the sake of trying it.

If you're by any chance heading to Laguna this weekend, see you there!

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by bipp

Great laps!

Few questions:
- Are those settings from soft or full stiff on the dampers?
- If those are 295 ECFs - any chance you're on 18x10.5s? Also, any chance 295 ECFs have a rat's chance in hell at fitting up front with the Nitrons? I needed a 5mm spacer just to clear 275 ECFs... but not sure if there's any trickery that can be done with spring length and maybe even shaving the inner tire protector or the shorter diameter of the 295/30.


Tbh, knowing that the Nitron plates can get up to -3.6 is good to hear. I don't plan on ever running non-OEM arms but I do hope to be able to run 295s one day just for the sake of trying it.

If you're by any chance heading to Laguna this weekend, see you there!

-Those click settings are from soft. 10/24F - 8/24R

-This Sonoma event was on my other staggered setup. 10/et25 - 11/et44. Havent run ECF on my 10.5 square setup yet.
I also have to run a 7.5mm spacer up front for the 275 ECF to clear strut. (didnt have to on my tc klines). For 10.5 295/35/RE71 setup i am using a 20mm spacer up front. I just bought a set of 295/30/RE71 and should resolve any fitment issues the 35 was causing. (Lock to lock turning and rubbing the rear of front liner. Fully clearing perch.) Was going to heat form the fender liners but out of laziness decided to try 30 profiles first

-The OG Shark nitron kits do come with a 5 in front spring vs 6 in in standard kit. I spent a good amount of time trying to make the 35 fit perfect with a smaller spacer. However the car needed to be too high ride height up front for the spring perch to 100% clear in all cases. It is soooo close at stock ride height tho, few mm off clearance. With a 30 profile it wont be an issue. Should be able to run 15mm spacer too.

I will be at Laguna on Saturday in the E46. Come stop by.

[F80 M3 LTW]

Originally Posted by bipp

Great laps!

Few questions:
- Are those settings from soft or full stiff on the dampers?
- If those are 295 ECFs - any chance you're on 18x10.5s? Also, any chance 295 ECFs have a rat's chance in hell at fitting up front with the Nitrons? I needed a 5mm spacer just to clear 275 ECFs... but not sure if there's any trickery that can be done with spring length and maybe even shaving the inner tire protector or the shorter diameter of the 295/30.


Tbh, knowing that the Nitron plates can get up to -3.6 is good to hear. I don't plan on ever running non-OEM arms but I do hope to be able to run 295s one day just for the sake of trying it.

If you're by any chance heading to Laguna this weekend, see you there!

I’m planning on running 295/30 ECF on a 18x10.5 et22. I haven’t gotten the package together yet but I’m hoping to get away with a 5mm spacer up and -3.2-3.5deg camber up front.

I keep hearing how much wider ECF runs so hopefully it fits with the above but seems like a bigger spacer would be a an easy fix.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by Driver407

-Those click settings are from soft. 10/24F - 8/24R

-This Sonoma event was on my other staggered setup. 10/et25 - 11/et44. Havent run ECF on my 10.5 square setup yet.
I also have to run a 7.5mm spacer up front for the 275 ECF to clear strut. (didnt have to on my tc klines). For 10.5 295/35/RE71 setup i am using a 20mm spacer up front. I just bought a set of 295/30/RE71 and should resolve any fitment issues the 35 was causing. (Lock to lock turning and rubbing the rear of front liner. Fully clearing perch.) Was going to heat form the fender liners but out of laziness decided to try 30 profiles first

-The OG Shark nitron kits do come with a 5 in front spring vs 6 in in standard kit. I spent a good amount of time trying to make the 35 fit perfect with a smaller spacer. However the car needed to be too high ride height up front for the spring perch to 100% clear in all cases. It is soooo close at stock ride height tho, few mm off clearance. With a 30 profile it wont be an issue. Should be able to run 15mm spacer too.

I will be at Laguna on Saturday in the E46. Come stop by.

The ECF is massive. My fender liners are pretty torn up - at some point I'll start messing with a heat gun and a hammer so I don't wince every time I turn right. I'm in an E92 but iirc the E9x and F8x are pretty similar in terms of room up front.

I'll be on the lookout for an E46 with 407!

Originally Posted by F80 M3 LTW

I’m planning on running 295/30 ECF on a 18x10.5 et22. I haven’t gotten the package together yet but I’m hoping to get away with a 5mm spacer up and -3.2-3.5deg camber up front.

I keep hearing how much wider ECF runs so hopefully it fits with the above but seems like a bigger spacer would be a an easy fix.

The ECF is really big - see the below pic of 275/35/18, but part of it is due to that fat rim protector (which doesn't do much, and as a result I have 3 used ECFs sitting in my closet since I couldn't get a replacement during Thanksgiving week...). If you do fit a 295/30/18 ECF up front with those wheels, I'd be interested in what it takes. Maybe you could shave the rim protector on the inside to get 2-3mm more but it'll be very close if even possible.

View post on imgur.com