12-20-2016, 10:52 AM | #67 |
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My 2001 E46 was rusting at around 8 - 10 years in NJ. It's 16 years old now and it's been garaged its entire life, and promptly washed after snow.
Some cars just have weaker bodies than others. Nothing wrong with wanting it to look pretty long after it's supposed to. |
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12-20-2016, 10:55 AM | #68 |
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You're over thinking this. It's a modern car, no need to even think about any of this with such a short down time (3-4) months. The car will be fine.
Maybe move it 6" to avoid potential flat spot but even that is really stretching. That aside, I would also drive it. A little salt won't hurt, just wash it every few weeks. |
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12-20-2016, 12:43 PM | #69 |
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Thank you for the tips everyone. My 2001 e46 also started showing rust spots after about 8 or so years, hence my concern about the salt.
With how cold it is here currently and snow still being on the ground I just don't see too much reason to take the M4 out. I'll make sure to move it a couple of inches every now and then though to prevent flat spots as I've had new MPSS put on just 2 weeks prior to the snow so it would be a shame to have them ruined with flat spots by the time I get to drive again. |
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12-20-2016, 12:52 PM | #70 |
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I live in Minnesota and have been storing a car for the past 10 years. Mainly because I don't enjoy driving my "nicer" cars in the winter. The salt and dirt and higher potential for accidents just makes me want to have a beater car for winter that I don't give a crap about. With that said, I have always done the following with no issue
Storage Time Frame - November - April 1) Wash/Wax the car 2) Fill tires up with air 1 psi over recommended about 3) Fill up gas tank and put in stabil fuel saver 4) Put a trickle charger on it (make sure if your car has a lithium battery, you purchase a lithium charger (ctek is a good one)) 5) Stick towels in the exhaust pipes (prevents rodents from crawling in) 6) Cover it Done. Starting it up and letting it idle for a few minutes every so often does more harm than good. Just leave the car alone, and it will be fine. Now with that said, if you are just letting the car sit for 1-2 months, you probably are ok not doing any of the above. Last edited by 04cobra; 12-22-2016 at 08:40 AM.. |
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12-20-2016, 01:02 PM | #71 | |
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12-20-2016, 01:27 PM | #72 |
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I wonder if someone can confirm which panels are made out of aluminum - I'm pretty sure the hood and front fenders are, with the trunk and roof being carbon fiber.
Anyway, for my money, the absolute best time to drive a high power car is in the winter, especially after a snow. Insane drift angles and it's the only time you can say, "gee I dunno how I got into that slide officer, maybe the city needs to put more sand down". This actually happened to me a few years ago and the cop gave me laser eyes, then he said, "I followed you for two miles, I saw how you were driving and I don't like it. I can't write you up, but I'll be watching for you ..." (I couldn't see him because of cloud of snow my tires were making) And then there's the ice racing. In Wealth of Nations, Adam Smith reminds us that wasting resources impoverishes us all ... gawd damn, why would you guys waste a perfectly good winter AND and ///M car??
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12-20-2016, 01:35 PM | #73 | |
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12-20-2016, 03:37 PM | #74 | |
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Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!” ― Hunter S. Thompson, The Proud Highway: Saga of a Desperate Southern Gentleman, 1955-1967 |
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12-20-2016, 03:54 PM | #75 | |
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I would agree with this. I parked my e46 from December 1 to April 1 for 15 years and not a speck of rust. Now doing the same with the F80. I can't imagine having to look at all the cad plated bolts, etc., crusty from salt after a winter season. If you put a maintenance charger on the battery, make sure it's for a lithium battery. |
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12-21-2016, 12:08 PM | #78 | |
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As specracer said you have to get the Ctek charger for lithium Ion batteries. It's expensive but needed. Other than that I park it and cover it up. Someone else mentioned putting 1PSI extra air in the tires. I hardly think 1PSI will matter. I have heard of over inflation but probably needs more air than that. I don't do it. Flat spots will run out after a bit of driving...it's temporary.
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12-22-2016, 08:37 AM | #79 |
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12-22-2016, 08:39 AM | #80 | |
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12-22-2016, 08:43 AM | #81 |
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mine sits for 3-4 months. i dont touch the car at all.
-fill up fuel -inflate tires to max psi -hook up to trickle (lithium charger for the m3/4) -do not leave handbrake on. ready to go in the spring
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12-23-2016, 02:02 PM | #83 |
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I will never understand winter storage for a mass produced car. The only time I wouldn't drive mine in winter is if the snow was too deep for ground clearance.
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07-24-2018, 08:38 AM | #84 |
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Winter Storage Questions
So when I have purchased my M4 this year I have made the purchase with the decision to store the car during the winter. I live in Michigan where the winters are -50 degrees F and 40 ft of snow is an average day.
I was looking at a few covered storage locations. The questions that I have are: Should the storage location be heated? Is this necessary? Do I need to hook up the battery to a trickle charger for the Lithium Ion Battery? Should the vehicle be on stands or can it sit on the tires? Should I add anything to the fuel such as stabil? Any info will be greatly appreciated. |
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07-24-2018, 08:52 AM | #86 |
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Here are some past threads which ought to have some helpful tips:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wint...bimmerpost.com |
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07-24-2018, 09:29 AM | #87 | |
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Resist the urge to periodically start the car and "warm it up". You will not get it hot enough to burn off residual condensation that is formed by running it, and the transmission will never be warm without driving it. Just let it sit until spring. While a heated garage is not necessary, it is nice and probably better on the vehicle.
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07-24-2018, 11:50 AM | #88 |
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