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      11-22-2019, 10:51 AM   #67
SerbianMotorWorks
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Hi Bryan. I'm in Boca and would like to join the whatsapp group and know where you got the hub installed. They have a new BMW dealership in Delray but I know the guys in Pompano are really good. Leaning toward the Max hub based on the thread. I've got a 2016 with stage one and don't ever track it... except on 95 Should I even get this done?! I'm sure it's gonna be expensive. $4k out the door? Thanks for your insight... Ivan
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      11-22-2019, 06:37 PM   #68
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Just curious, are all your warranties over that your switching the crank hubs? I'm running stock set up and don't plan on getting a job till the warranty has expired or plan on tracking the car either. There I no guarantee if these aftermarket hubs are any better, any test results?
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      11-22-2019, 06:43 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by PhatLyfe View Post
Just curious, are all your warranties over that your switching the crank hubs? I'm running stock set up and don't plan on getting a job till the warranty has expired or plan on tracking the car either. There I no guarantee if these aftermarket hubs are any better, any test results?
I’m under warranty but running pures and am DCT so don’t want to deal with it
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      12-20-2019, 08:15 AM   #70
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If anyone is wondering, I messaged Insane performance on Ebay asking them what material the hub and pins are made from. This is their reply.

"The hub is made from hardened steel, 12xH3A mark. The pin is from bearing steel GCr15."
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      12-20-2019, 05:43 PM   #71
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What I dont get is why Insane does not taper their gears on later hubs, like OEM, Gintani or MaxPSI ones. This can be big issue when gears catch chain sideplate. Non-tapering is not accepted solution for such high speed, high vibration usage.
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      12-21-2019, 09:09 PM   #72
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I think I saw this solution on eBay. N was wondering if u can fit the cbc onto this one piece design. It would be a helpful build.
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      12-25-2019, 02:28 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilvez View Post
What I dont get is why Insane does not taper their gears on later hubs, like OEM, Gintani or MaxPSI ones. This can be big issue when gears catch chain sideplate. Non-tapering is not accepted solution for such high speed, high vibration usage.
I would think its because the chain guide is actually a floating design, so it can move side to side to allow for perfect chain orientation. Not to mention the chain is pretty tight, so their being enough slack for a tooth to catch a side plate is very improbable

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3classic View Post
I think I saw this solution on eBay. N was wondering if u can fit the cbc onto this one piece design. It would be a helpful build.
Yes you can run a CBC with it. I do
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      12-25-2019, 07:15 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilvez View Post
What I dont get is why Insane does not taper their gears on later hubs, like OEM, Gintani or MaxPSI ones. This can be big issue when gears catch chain sideplate. Non-tapering is not accepted solution for such high speed, high vibration usage.
I would think its because the chain guide is actually a floating design, so it can move side to side to allow for perfect chain orientation. Not to mention the chain is pretty tight, so their being enough slack for a tooth to catch a side plate is very improbable

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3classic View Post
I think I saw this solution on eBay. N was wondering if u can fit the cbc onto this one piece design. It would be a helpful build.
Yes you can run a CBC with it. I do
Check page 18 - sprocket teeth tapering is pretty much basic need for safe operation of high speed chains. If not done, then this is just additional risk in the design.


https://www.iwis.com/as-handbook/iwi...nstruction.pdf
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      12-27-2019, 11:14 AM   #75
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i dont think the chain is loose enough for this to be a problem.
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      12-28-2019, 06:40 AM   #76
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Non-tapered sprocket teeth is simply bad design for that application, end of story. Keep in mind that this is high-vibration, high-speed, high acceleration/deceleration environment for chain and sprocket teeth need to contribute to the chain centering action. Otherwise there is a risk for them to catch side plate.

I did not invent how the sprocket teeth should be designed, this is basic engineering requirement as you can read from the IWIS material.

Here is good analysis of different alternative hubs:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=38

In short, shop wisely.
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      12-28-2019, 11:49 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilvez View Post
Non-tapered sprocket teeth is simply bad design for that application, end of story. Keep in mind that this is high-vibration, high-speed, high acceleration/deceleration environment for chain and sprocket teeth need to contribute to the chain centering action. Otherwise there is a risk for them to catch side plate.

I did not invent how the sprocket teeth should be designed, this is basic engineering requirement as you can read from the IWIS material.

Here is good analysis of different alternative hubs:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=38

In short, shop wisely.
Would be great if you can direct these questions to the makers themselves so they can explain why they made it how they did
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      12-31-2019, 10:11 AM   #78
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i bought one. Took one day to get here from Lithuania.
I looked closely at the sprocket and it looks like its maybe shot peened.

There is a bevel and a chamfered edge on the sprocket as well.
It might not be as pronounced as the stock but it's there.
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      12-31-2019, 11:14 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilvez View Post
Non-tapered sprocket teeth is simply bad design for that application, end of story. Keep in mind that this is high-vibration, high-speed, high acceleration/deceleration environment for chain and sprocket teeth need to contribute to the chain centering action. Otherwise there is a risk for them to catch side plate.

I did not invent how the sprocket teeth should be designed, this is basic engineering requirement as you can read from the IWIS material.

Here is good analysis of different alternative hubs:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=38

In short, shop wisely.
I've got one in hand, it seems like the sprocket is tapered.
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      01-01-2020, 05:18 PM   #80
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Enlarging the first photo you can see the taper
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      01-02-2020, 03:17 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
Enlarging the first photo you can see the taper
Correct. That's what I wanted people to see.
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      01-04-2020, 03:21 AM   #82
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looking at the vtt v2 hub where it is removing a small amount of material as it enters the crank,does it leave a gap for the debris to sit? if not when the bolt is tightened you are simply compacting the debris and not acheiving the full insertion.
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      01-04-2020, 01:30 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryanh24 View Post
Has anyone had any experiences with the insane performance crank hub? Let me know! Thanks.
Check out my IG @that_tech_mario... I've installed about 15 insane performance crankhubs and they all been running strong for months. Also if you follow my IG I get discounts on them.
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      01-04-2020, 10:00 PM   #84
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What is the difference between insane performance one piece crank hub and Gintani's crank hub?
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      01-04-2020, 11:33 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluer2 View Post
What is the difference between insane performance one piece crank hub and Gintani's crank hub?
The Insane performance hub uses two hardened steel pins and two receiver holes drilled into the crank to allow the hub to pin to the crank. Its a pretty secure fit, and adds a noticeable effort while tightening the center bolt, which is assuring.

Gintani's crank hub "pin" is a machined "lobe" which is part of the 1pc hub. Only one side of the crank snout is drilled and then filed down to fit the "lobe".
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      01-05-2020, 01:04 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
The Insane performance hub uses two hardened steel pins and two receiver holes drilled into the crank to allow the hub to pin to the crank. Its a pretty secure fit, and adds a noticeable effort while tightening the center bolt, which is assuring.

Gintani's crank hub "pin" is a machined "lobe" which is part of the 1pc hub. Only one side of the crank snout is drilled and then filed down to fit the "lobe".
so it's basically a MaxPsi crank hub but in a one piece design? I am here wondering why MaxPsi didn't just make a one piece design in the first place.
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      01-05-2020, 01:11 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluer2 View Post
so it's basically a MaxPsi crank hub but in a one piece design? I am here wondering why MaxPsi didn't just make a one piece design in the first place.
I think I read somewhere that the oil sprocket doesn’t do anything regarding spinning the hub, so to lower production costs, Max psi probably didn’t think It was necessary
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      01-05-2020, 01:19 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by jpy1980 View Post
I think I read somewhere that the oil sprocket doesn’t do anything regarding spinning the hub, so to lower production costs, Max psi probably didn’t think It was necessary
Production costs in Lithuania must be real cheap then to offer this for around $950 on eBay. Anybody care to share what the lowest offer they are willing to accept for this part? lol
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