Built in Radar/Laser detector jammer

[Roadkiller]

V1 in stealth mode FTW.

[Powaup]

Ok so I just bought a V1 but I get waayyy too many false alerts. Is there something I can do about that or is it just useless for driving around town but good when outside city?

[Wah]

Originally Posted by Powaup

Ok so I just bought a V1 but I get waayyy too many false alerts. Is there something I can do about that or is it just useless for driving around town but good when outside city?

The Savvy connector will auto mute the V1 below a preset speed (between 15 and 65mph). I think I have mine set to 35mph. What this means is that if you are driving below 35mph, then any alerts will beep once and then mute. This is good for driving around town.

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by Powaup

Ok so I just bought a V1 but I get waayyy too many false alerts. Is there something I can do about that or is it just useless for driving around town but good when outside city?

You don't have Driver Assistant Plus Package, do you? What bands are falsing?

[aperng]

Escort Redline's are known to break after 1 year due to bad soldering. I was going to buy one until I read all the awful reviews on Amazon. Buyer beware, otherwise it is the top performing detector.

http://www.amazon.com/product-review...owViewpoints=0

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by dhoggm3

My Ferrari's previous owner installed the BEL Sti-R + Blinder HP-905's and it's the most amazing system I've ever experienced. This thread has me thinking it's a good idea for the F80 as well...

Blinders are the same price as the LIs but have a few less gun capabilities. Again this would be my third choice behind ALP since they can jam some of the new stalker guns that even LI/Blinder can't [blinder hasn't put out an update in FOREVER and don't typically update their stuff, this is where especially ALP and LI to an extent win]


If your planning on keeping the car might as well get the best BEL + ALP.

Originally Posted by shortseller

Are radar detectors, as is in VA, illegal where you are? If so are you concerned with the ability for law enforcement to detect you have radar active inside the vehicle? As I'm in VA I've been toying with the idea myself, there are units that are invisible to detection, but I'm still worried about getting picked up on visual.

I drive from American Legion to Dulles everyday and for the past 3 weeks have gotten lazy about unplugging it. I've yet to be pulled over lol

[Powaup]

Originally Posted by Sir Loin

You don't have Driver Assistant Plus Package, do you? What bands are falsing?

No I don't K band gets the most false alarm so does Ka, I get like 6 false alarms at once some time, the other day I was on the freeway and I was getting a bunch of false alarms then all of a sudden I got hit by a laser from a cop on the side of the freeway, I was doing speed limit but the false alarms were really distracting

[Powaup]

Originally Posted by Wah

The Savvy connector will auto mute the V1 below a preset speed (between 15 and 65mph). I think I have mine set to 35mph. What this means is that if you are driving below 35mph, then any alerts will beep once and then mute. This is good for driving around town.

I might look into it but so far the app waze has proven more useful than my V1...

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by Powaup

No I don't K band gets the most false alarm so does Ka, I get like 6 false alarms at once some time, the other day I was on the freeway and I was getting a bunch of false alarms then all of a sudden I got hit by a laser from a cop on the side of the freeway, I was doing speed limit but the false alarms were really distracting

The sensors that come with Driver Assistant Plus package triggers K-band in V1. I had the same problem. There are a couple of things to try. Try enable the Logic or the Advanced Logic mode in V1. They only filter out X-band so it may not help in this case.

This may be more helpful. Take a look at this page: http://www.valentine1.com/Lab/techreport3.asp

1 Traffic monitoring devices have been introduced in many cities around the US to facilitate monitoring of traffic conditions and average traffic speed. These monitoring devices create "false" alarms within the K radar band. Valentine Research has developed a filtering algorithm to suppress these unwanted monitoring devices. This feature is enabled by activating user feature "t". This filter is factory defaulted to OFF (FRONT ARROW) and must be enabled by setting feature "t" to REAR ARROW.
2 Enabling the 't' feature (DOWN ARROW) disables the V1s ability to detect K Pop (Ka Pop functions normally.)

You can try enable filtering for Traffic monitoring. Your V1 might be triggered by these traffic monitoring devices. Ka should not false and are usually for real.

[serieD]

V1

but as I always say, you can't rely on them. They can help you when they can but this is a cops day job, literally, to catch you speeding. So they have all different ways, just always watch and be aware of who and what is around you.

Plus the ///M isn't the most friendly logo to police =) =)

[Powaup]

Originally Posted by Sir Loin

The sensors that come with Driver Assistant Plus package triggers K-band in V1. I had the same problem. There are a couple of things to try. Try enable the Logic or the Advanced Logic mode in V1. They only filter out X-band so it may not help in this case.

This may be more helpful. Take a look at this page: http://www.valentine1.com/Lab/techreport3.asp

You can try enable filtering for Traffic monitoring. Your V1 might be triggered by these traffic monitoring devices. Ka should not false and are usually for real.

Sorry I meant that I get a lot of X-band false alarms not Ka. Thx for the help will look into this

[miula]

Originally Posted by Powaup

Sorry I meant that I get a lot of X-band false alarms not Ka. Thx for the help will look into this

X-band falses are extremely common b/c of door sensors, alarm systems, etc. A lot of users including myself have completely disabled X-band on their V1's and other detectors but be careful and do some research on your area an local LEO before disabling any bands (same goes for rear K band).

I run the V1 with Savvy which helps quiet it down a lot but the game changer is V1connection. It allows your mobile to connect to the V1 for programming (disabling bands, rear filter, TSR) and most importantly enabling custom sweeps which brings the V1 to a whole new level of detection and will also avoid a lot of falses on the Ka band by narrowing it and over-scanning the segments where most guns are tuned into. It takes a bit of reading and testing to dial in your settings but the performance increase is insane.

I ran V1connection LE (iPhone version) on all bogey mode (A) on my V1 for a couple of weeks using the frequency screen in order to spot falses and make sure X band was not being used before enabling euro mode (C) and tuning my sweeps. I also did some research to figure out what LEO in the area typically use. I do have multiple profiles which I load based on where I am driving and when I travel.

As good as the performance is I am still considering "parking sensors" like ALP because LIDAR is more and more common everywhere and unless you get a bounce from someone else on your V1 it doesn't help much.

All this being said, the most saves I've had lately have been due to Waze I can't recommend it enough!!!

Now I have to figure out how to display Waze on the nav

[mact3333]

Agree with you that Waze just as effective as radar detector.

You can show Waze on your NAV by airplay mirroring...look into Kivic One, as this creates wifi hotspot to do airplay mirroring your iPhone....NAV has to support video though.

Originally Posted by miula

X-band falses are extremely common b/c of door sensors, alarm systems, etc. A lot of users including myself have completely disabled X-band on their V1's and other detectors but be careful and do some research on your area an local LEO before disabling any bands (same goes for rear K band).

I run the V1 with Savvy which helps quiet it down a lot but the game changer is V1connection. It allows your mobile to connect to the V1 for programming (disabling bands, rear filter, TSR) and most importantly enabling custom sweeps which brings the V1 to a whole new level of detection and will also avoid a lot of falses on the Ka band by narrowing it and over-scanning the segments where most guns are tuned into. It takes a bit of reading and testing to dial in your settings but the performance increase is insane.

I ran V1connection LE (iPhone version) on all bogey mode (A) on my V1 for a couple of weeks using the frequency screen in order to spot falses and make sure X band was not being used before enabling euro mode (C) and tuning my sweeps. I also did some research to figure out what LEO in the area typically use. I do have multiple profiles which I load based on where I am driving and when I travel.

As good as the performance is I am still considering "parking sensors" like ALP because LIDAR is more and more common everywhere and unless you get a bounce from someone else on your V1 it doesn't help much.

All this being said, the most saves I've had lately have been due to Waze I can't recommend it enough!!!

Now I have to figure out how to display Waze on the nav

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by Powaup

Sorry I meant that I get a lot of X-band false alarms not Ka. Thx for the help will look into this

For X-band falses, just turn on Logic or Advanced Logic mode and you should be good.

[ersin]

Originally Posted by mact3333

Agree with you that Waze just as effective as radar detector.

It can be just as effective, more effective or less. It really depends on time and location. If you travel near big cities during rush hours then chances are lots of other people are using Waze and you will have good alerts. Conversely, if you travel in areas away from lots of people then there will likely be less Waze users and the detector will likely give you better performance. Just keep this in mind.

Also remember that Waze alerts you to many other things like traffic, obstacles and accidents. Both of them together is the best way to travel.


Cheers.

[stuka]

Originally Posted by Powaup

Ok so I just bought a V1 but I get waayyy too many false alerts. Is there something I can do about that or is it just useless for driving around town but good when outside city?

You are in CA, look up the programming mode and turn off X, nobody uses X.

Some sheriffs use K, so whether you want to disable K is up to you.

There are basically no falsest in Ka. If it's Ka, there's a cop 99% of the time.

Ka is very useful on the 5 for example, where CHP's would usually leave their radar on, it's like shooting fish in a barrel for them. Sometimes they do use Laser, but you are screwed anyway if they do. All radar detector that detects laser just tells you that you are about to receive a ticket.

For that you would need jammers, of which I have no experience with.

[Powaup]

Originally Posted by miula

All this being said, the most saves I've had lately have been due to Waze I can't recommend it enough!!!

Now I have to figure out how to display Waze on the nav

Yea waze is great and I've been asking myself if I should just return my V1 and use Waze instead. I will take your advice and look into reprogramming my V1, if this helps I'll keep it, if not I will return it and consider a laser jammer since I was told that most detectors in the bay area use laser

[miula]

Originally Posted by Powaup

Yea waze is great and I've been asking myself if I should just return my V1 and use Waze instead. I will take your advice and look into reprogramming my V1, if this helps I'll keep it, if not I will return it and consider a laser jammer since I was told that most detectors in the bay area use laser

I said Waze is responsible for "most saves" but I wouldn't drive around without my V1 unless I had to; I even have the V1 setup on the loaner without Savvy (just 12v plug) until I get my M3 on 9/5 which will get the full setup with Savvy before the drive back home.

The V1connection really makes it easy to setup as well as enabling settings like euro mode that allow custom sweeps.

I have profiles with x-band off, rear k-band mute & custom sweeps as well as really simple profiles for when I travel.

Below are some pictures to give you an idea of how much you can do on the iPhone and how easy it is to program through V1connection. Just make sure you get the correct module for your phone (only android and iPhone and they are different and not compatible with each other)

[Sir Loin]

Can you still use the remote display with V1Connection?

[miula]

Originally Posted by Sir Loin

Can you still use the remote display with V1Connection?

It depends, you need to have both a V1 and concealed display that are enabled for ESP (little ESP logo on the bottom left right below the control knob) to be able to really take advantage of the V1connection. If one of the devices is not ESP and/or the firmware on the V1 is too old, the whole setup will revert back to the old protocol with very limited functionality.

Mine is firmware version 3.893 (you can check it on their website with the serial number under updates) and both the concealed display and remote audio adapter are ESP versions. Everything works well including Savvy.

From the V1 website: "V1connection works with all V1s, but its full capability is available only from V1s with ESP. (Check for the ESP logo on the front panel below the Control Knob.) On pre-ESP V1s, or when using a pre-ESP Concealed Display or Remote Audio Adapter, your handheld will serve as a wireless remote display of all of V1's front-panel warnings, but other functions and screens are unavailable."

You'll need a 4-pin RJ11 splitter to run both the V1connection and concealed display.

From the V1 website: A second "ACC" jack was not included in the V1connection because we think of a SmartPhone as a "super" CD. That being said, you can split the ACC jack on any Lighter Adapter, SAVVY or Direct-Wire Power Adapter utilizing a telephone jack splitter.

The splitter must be the type that simply connects all pins together (parallel connection) to give the user two jacks where only one is available. DO NOT USE DSL FILTERS provided by the telephone company that are meant to separate internet from telephone signals.

Here is a list of acceptable devices:
Radio Shack: 279-018 (Ivory)
Radio Shack: 5503219 (Ivory; web only)
Walmart: GE 26191 (White)
(web): Belkin F8V109 (Ivory), Belkin F8V106 (Ivory), Belkin F8V106-WH (White)

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by miula

It depends, you need to have both a V1 and concealed display that are enabled for ESP (little ESP logo on the bottom left right below the control knob) to be able to really take advantage of the V1connection. If one of the devices is not ESP and/or the firmware on the V1 is too old, the whole setup will revert back to the old protocol with very limited functionality.

Thanks miula. My V1 is currently being upgraded to the latest version. My concealed display is very old though. I may need to buy a new concealed display if there is no upgrade path for my old CD. Thanks.

[miula]

Originally Posted by Sir Loin

Thanks miula. My V1 is currently being upgraded to the latest version. My concealed display is very old though. I may need to buy a new concealed display if there is no upgrade path for my old CD. Thanks.

No problem Let me know if you need help with the settings and "customs sweeps once you get your detector back...

I had an issue with the concealed display (CD) being fairly old as well when my detector came back from the update with the V1connection LE; had to buy a new one then but I wonder if they have any sort of upgrade possible at this time...

As soon as I get the car next week, I'll set up the V1 with Savvy + V1connection LE (I'll run the cables just like you did but will pop open the side panel behind the vent to run the cables thru and out the square hole next to the OBDII port) and the CD on the left side of the dashboard right where it meets the windshield (had it like that on the 1M) with a little "Sugru" to stabilize it and avoid vibration.

I'll snap some pics then...