Replace Entire Valve Cover or Just the Seal?

[Ultimate Driving Giraffe]

My 2015 (late 2014 build) M3 6MT (about 33,000 miles) has a leaking valve cover. I've gotten a couple of quotes for the repair, which is not cheap. One difference (though its "only" about $700) is whether or not they replace the entire valve cover or just the gasket.

What is the conventional wisdom on a car of my age/mileage and replacing just the gasket vs. the entire valve cover?

Given the age of the car, that the valve cover is made out of plastic, and the potential issues with warping/cracking (as well as the cost of repair labor just to access it), I'm inclined to replace the entire valve cover as a preventative measure and not worry about it again for the next 5-6 years. Does that make sense, or am I just being paranoid and wasting about $700 on a part I don't need to replace?

[TractionControlDelete]

Originally Posted by Ultimate Driving Giraffe

My 2015 (late 2014 build) M3 6MT (about 33,000 miles) has a leaking valve cover. I've gotten a couple of quotes for the repair, which is not cheap. One difference (though its "only" about $700) is whether or not they replace the entire valve cover or just the gasket.

What is the conventional wisdom on a car of my age/mileage and replacing just the gasket vs. the entire valve cover?

Given the age of the car, that the valve cover is made out of plastic, and the potential issues with warping/cracking (as well as the cost of repair labor just to access it), I'm inclined to replace the entire valve cover as a preventative measure and not worry about it again for the next 5-6 years. Does that make sense, or am I just being paranoid and wasting about $700 on a part I don't need to replace?

Originally Posted by Ultimate Driving Giraffe

My 2015 (late 2014 build) M3 6MT (about 33,000 miles) has a leaking valve cover. I've gotten a couple of quotes for the repair, which is not cheap. One difference (though its "only" about $700) is whether or not they replace the entire valve cover or just the gasket.

What is the conventional wisdom on a car of my age/mileage and replacing just the gasket vs. the entire valve cover?

Given the age of the car, that the valve cover is made out of plastic, and the potential issues with warping/cracking (as well as the cost of repair labor just to access it), I'm inclined to replace the entire valve cover as a preventative measure and not worry about it again for the next 5-6 years. Does that make sense, or am I just being paranoid and wasting about $700 on a part I don't need to replace?

I had a previous M4, 2015 with 49k miles, and when I had the gasket done I just went ahead and did the cover as well. It's plastic and at the time I recall reading that they tend to warp and change shape. I make a habit of doing the gasket and cover on my cars - same with my R53 Mini

[richf80]

Originally Posted by Ultimate Driving Giraffe

My 2015 (late 2014 build) M3 6MT (about 33,000 miles) has a leaking valve cover. I've gotten a couple of quotes for the repair, which is not cheap. One difference (though its "only" about $700) is whether or not they replace the entire valve cover or just the gasket.

What is the conventional wisdom on a car of my age/mileage and replacing just the gasket vs. the entire valve cover?

Given the age of the car, that the valve cover is made out of plastic, and the potential issues with warping/cracking (as well as the cost of repair labor just to access it), I'm inclined to replace the entire valve cover as a preventative measure and not worry about it again for the next 5-6 years. Does that make sense, or am I just being paranoid and wasting about $700 on a part I don't need to replace?

Replace the cover. The PVC is built into it, so just pay to do the job once by replacing the cover which comes with new gasket.

[Ultimate Driving Giraffe]

Thanks, guys. That was my thought, too.

One shop strongly recommended replacing the entire cover; the other didn't think it was necessary.

[mapster37]

do the complete cover. save yourself the headache of having to pay for it twice

[Gertsee]

Pcv is known to fail on these cars and its actually built into the valve cover so just replaced the whole thing. Kill 3 birds with 1 stone

[fretchh]

Newer to BMWs, but is the Valve cover a job that cannot be DIY? Done it on countless cars, but wasnt sure with the S55.

[Tangent]

Originally Posted by fretchh

Newer to BMWs, but is the Valve cover a job that cannot be DIY? Done it on countless cars, but wasnt sure with the S55.

Definitely can DIY. It's not actually all that difficult, just a bit time-consuming with the things that need to be gotten out of the way. I did the job a couple of weeks ago and will be doing it again as soon as FCP Euro has them in stock again since it appears I got a defective new valve cover.

[chuss]

Originally Posted by Tangent

Definitely can DIY. It's not actually all that difficult, just a bit time-consuming with the things that need to be gotten out of the way. I did the job a couple of weeks ago and will be doing it again as soon as FCP Euro has them in stock again since it appears I got a defective new valve cover.

Originally Posted by Tangent

Definitely can DIY. It's not actually all that difficult, just a bit time-consuming with the things that need to be gotten out of the way. I did the job a couple of weeks ago and will be doing it again as soon as FCP Euro has them in stock again since it appears I got a defective new valve cover.

So the one you ordered from fcp was defective ?

[Tangent]

Originally Posted by chuss

So the one you ordered from fcp was defective ?

Well, as I replaced it again yesterday with the second part from them I found that the vent hose was cracked. So I think one of two things happened:

1) The squealing can be caused by a bad PCV or a bad vent hose. I cut open my original valve cover and confirmed that the original PCV's membrane was damaged so this seems to be the less likely option.

2) A bad vent hose causes a condition which can very quickly damage the PCV which then goes on to cause the typical squealing.

So I can't say for sure at this point if I got unlucky with a defective valve cover out of the box, if it was good but was almost immediately damaged because of not getting the correct vacuum from the vent hose, or if it's even now still in working condition and the hose alone caused the squeal after my first replacement. I found the damaged hose after I installed the new replacement valve cover so I can't just swap on the new hose to see if that eliminates the squeal and I'm not going to cut open the part I'm returning so I can't confirm any damage there.

My advice would be if you're replacing the valve cover anyway, replace that vent hose (part number 11127850244) as well. Besides the break the entire thing was pretty brittle; you just couldn't see any of that under the insulated sleeve.

[chuss]

Originally Posted by Tangent

Well, as I replaced it again yesterday with the second part from them I found that the vent hose was cracked. So I think one of two things happened:

1) The squealing can be caused by a bad PCV or a bad vent hose. I cut open my original valve cover and confirmed that the original PCV's membrane was damaged so this seems to be the less likely option.

2) A bad vent hose causes a condition which can very quickly damage the PCV which then goes on to cause the typical squealing.

So I can't say for sure at this point if I got unlucky with a defective valve cover out of the box, if it was good but was almost immediately damaged because of not getting the correct vacuum from the vent hose, or if it's even now still in working condition and the hose alone caused the squeal after my first replacement. I found the damaged hose after I installed the new replacement valve cover so I can't just swap on the new hose to see if that eliminates the squeal and I'm not going to cut open the part I'm returning so I can't confirm any damage there.

My advice would be if you're replacing the valve cover anyway, replace that vent hose (part number 11127850244) as well. Besides the break the entire thing was pretty brittle; you just couldn't see any of that under the insulated sleeve.

Much appreciated my friend.

Got my valve cover coming in on Monday, I'm also gonna be placing an order for the oil housing gasket needs replacement so I'll add that vent hose as well . Thanks again for taking the time to reply to my message and sharing your experience and trouble shoots!

[Tangent]

Happy to help! The videos and DIYs I've seen covered the job really well; here are the little things I did different, didn't see mentioned, or just hung me up for a minute:

- I used a bungee cord (one with plastic-covered hooks) to the hood to hold the charge air cooler up and out of the way instead of wedging something under it. No need to disconnect any coolant lines or to remove it completely.

- You might need a mirror to be able to get the socket on number 20 from this image. 26 I was able to get by feel but 20 was a pain. A u-joint and short extension is a must on those.

- Don't forget to remove the wire loom guide from the very back of the valve cover (#21 in this diagram) before pulling the cover off; it'll get in the way of getting it up and over the valvetrain.

- Once you have all the bolts loose, check again; you missed one and that's why the valve cover isn't coming off. Once you find the one you missed, check again for the other one you missed.

- Make sure the plastic wire loom guides that are attached to the fuel rail are oriented properly before you tighten anything, I had to undo every fastener I'd just finished tightening on that to get one spun back around to the right side. That rail has 4 bolts holding it down, I only saw 2 at first with the limited access; there are two under those loom guides as well.

[Pittz1]

Very informative. I've done n52 e90 twice already. This seems like a few more things to move.

At 40k miles, I can see this and the OFHG happening soon.