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      07-10-2020, 11:46 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Tread wear and rubber appearance looks uniform front/rear, was measuring 4/32" across the tread before 7/2/2020, with some 3/32" measurements on the outside of one of the tires. I'll be going over the car this weekend, will re-measure the tires to see what's what.

I'd heard about the NT01 gripping to the cords, which is why I wasn't worried about the tires.
Yeah, something to consider -- tread depth is almost irrelevant with the NT01. They're at their best when worn to almost full slick condition (not involving wet conditions).

Here's where I left off on my last set. They were still great.



Guidance from Nitto --

The NT01 offers varying degrees of competition performance. The tire is molded at 6.3/32nds of an inch with large continuous tread blocks and sweeping lateral grooves. This set up can be easily shaved down to 3/32nds of an inch tread depth to function as a race slick with twin circumferential grooves.


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      07-11-2020, 01:14 PM   #90
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Bought 2x 18x11s and a pair of 305 NT01s. Going to back-to-back compare the rear rubber and see if there's a difference. If there isn't a difference, then I'll start mucking about with ride height and compression/rebound adjustments to see if I can make it work.
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      07-21-2020, 10:56 AM   #91
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Took a bit for components to ship, but I got the seat and harness transferred from the STI to the M4. Using the Brey-Krause brackets with the OEM manual sliders, and the BK sub-strap and waist strap bar/brackets. Pretty great combination that didn't require any modification to fit the Momo Daytona Evo.

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Coding the car with E-Sys was a bit of a mess. Still have a SRS error, but the seatbelt reminder + seat airbag are disabled. Good enough with a 6-point, I'll sort out next week. The 3-point is definitely compromised with the Daytona, it's a narrow seat and there's no way to feed the buckle through the seat on the inboard side.

Spare set of Apex EC-7 18x11s arrived, waiting on NT01s to arrive. Supposed to arrive tomorrow, so hopefully they get on the trailer. Even if the rubber doesn't get on the trailer, Thursday lapping will be useful for fine tuning the seating position and the belts.
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      07-21-2020, 12:12 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Took a bit for components to ship, but I got the seat and harness transferred from the STI to the M4. Using the Brey-Krause brackets with the OEM manual sliders, and the BK sub-strap and waist strap bar/brackets. Pretty great combination that didn't require any modification to fit the Momo Daytona Evo.

Coding the car with E-Sys was a bit of a mess. Still have a SRS error, but the seatbelt reminder + seat airbag are disabled. Good enough with a 6-point, I'll sort out next week. The 3-point is definitely compromised with the Daytona, it's a narrow seat and there's no way to feed the buckle through the seat on the inboard side.

Spare set of Apex EC-7 18x11s arrived, waiting on NT01s to arrive. Supposed to arrive tomorrow, so hopefully they get on the trailer. Even if the rubber doesn't get on the trailer, Thursday lapping will be useful for fine tuning the seating position and the belts.
Looks good! How's centering? Looks like you're on the top height and tilt side mount settings?
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      07-21-2020, 01:17 PM   #93
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I'm centered on the wheel, no spacers were needed for the seat brackets. Pedal access changed a little with the recline + seat bolstering, but I should have no problem continuing to two-foot drive this car. Front is set to the highest setting, rear is 3rd down. I'm a little high in the car, I likely need to drop front/rear at least 1 hole each. Recline between the brackets and the seat padding seems about perfect.

I sized this seat for me back in 2015, and it still fits perfectly except for my helmet. I guess SA2015 helmets are a little wider than SA2010s, the SA2015 helmet is snug in the halo with the HANS anchors rubbing against the bolstering. Not a huge concern, the seat ages out next year so if I destroy the halo padding it is no big loss. My neck will have zero excuses for being sore given how much support it will have now.

I'm really looking forward to no longer death gripping the wheel and poor throttle modulation in medium-speed corners. Just sitting in the garage belted in with my HANS and helmet makes me happy. The ergonomics issues in the car are gone and safety got a major upgrade. Wasn't a huge fan of how fast the car was without a 6-point + HANS.

Now I just need to disable all the buttons on the wheel. I occasionally was hitting I think the voice command button with my palm on low-speed corners. Not a huge issue, just a minor distraction and annoyance.
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      07-24-2020, 07:48 PM   #94
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Seat position was definitely too high, but the belts were perfect. Having the waist belts locked to the seat is superior to having them bolted to the chassis. Pedal inputs were markedly improved being belted in, and mid-corner wheel corrections were less jerky.

Fedex didn't drop off the replacement NT01s, the rears are 100% shot. Nearly 4 seconds/lap on a 2.6 mile course vs my Cup 2s, the rear-end is completely disconnected. On the plus side the car will drift around slow to medium speed corners with ease, it's just mentally draining to do it for 25 minutes. Having belts makes it much easier to powerslide around corners. Might keep these tires mounted just for hooning until I cord them..

Next outing in two or three weeks, won't be changing anything besides fresh rear rubber. The fronts still brake phenomenally and corner as well or better than the Cup 2s. Going to familiarize myself with the suspension adjustment locations, if the rear rubber doesn't sort my grip, I'll start fiddling with the suspension.

Did have a complete track novice come out for the evening, and since the NT01s were completely trashed I just did lead/follow when I could, and tried to impart some cold-pit lessons. He improved from going off track every other lap to turning clean laps and not getting lost on the course. Sounds like he'll be back out there, so overall it was a good evening.
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      08-04-2020, 09:27 AM   #95
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Great looking car Gomeler! I think we met at HPR back in June, I'm the guy with the C5Z at the track but a M4 Comp at home. I believe I came by and admired your ride. Again, amazing looks on that GTS.
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      08-04-2020, 11:46 AM   #96
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Now I just need to disable all the buttons on the wheel. I occasionally was hitting I think the voice command button with my palm on low-speed corners. Not a huge issue, just a minor distraction and annoyance.[/QUOTE]

That is both funny and sometimes annoying, good call to disable these buttons - except M1/M2
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      08-04-2020, 01:28 PM   #97
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Dear diary,

NT01s are backordered until mid-August Ordered 4x 295/30r18 Toyo RRs. We'll see if they fit 18x11 square, otherwise will run the staggered wheel set and maybe a narrower front.

Water injection valve block arrived from Germany. Going to run a day on the RRs before I have BMW fix the block.

I left the car in the trailer after the last day, I only drove for 1 hour before putting it away due to the cooked rears. Engine oil is nearing 15 hours, which is my initial oil change target. Will send a sample out to Blackstone to start profiling the engine.

Lastly, I'm really missing wheel to wheel racing. I won't modify the GTS anymore, plus there isn't a good class to race it in locally. I think NASA GTS3 will be my target class. Less power than the GTS, but similar lap times due to heavy aero. I'm really leaning M235ir clone, but an E46M3 would be the easy answer. A basic build will be chassis + cage + suspension + differential for winter 2020. Maybe front brakes. Tough it out on 18x9s while I learn the class/chassis. Wish the M235ir had depreciated more, but two $80k BMWs in 12 months would not go over well and I'm not ready to split with the GTS.

Anywho, now time to find the money for this boondoggle. Thanks for reading if you made it this far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theox05 View Post
Great looking car Gomeler! I think we met at HPR back in June, I'm the guy with the C5Z at the track but a M4 Comp at home. I believe I came by and admired your ride. Again, amazing looks on that GTS.
I think you were parked right next to the GTS3 E46M3s? Think you had just acquired your C5Z? Holler if you're out there again, curious how your C5Z adventure is going.

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Originally Posted by fanatic1 View Post
Now I just need to disable all the buttons on the wheel. I occasionally was hitting I think the voice command button with my palm on low-speed corners. Not a huge issue, just a minor distraction and annoyance.

That is both funny and sometimes annoying, good call to disable these buttons - except M1/M2
My palms just sometimes end up mashing stuff in corners sometimes. Might not be an issue now that I'm no longer death gripping the wheel.
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      08-09-2020, 04:11 PM   #98
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Was curious how hot the front rotors were getting. Looks like they get a bit warm. Painting the pad backs and caliper piston centers for Thursday. Expect I'll see similar brake temps, data should be a little useful.

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These are 18x11 EC-7 with 295/30r18 Toyo RRs up front, with a 25mm spacer. At the stock ride height there is roughly 2" of vertical clearance to the fender. Tires turn lock to lock without rubbing at 15mph. Ballpark .75" inboard clearance to the coilover, and given the slight tire stretch, I'm hoping the inside won't deform enough to rub.

A little worried that under compression it will rub the outside shoulder on the fender. In theory given the camber and the angle of the coilover, it looks like it'll tuck in. I'll take it easy on the first session, gradually add more cornering and check for rubbing signs.

This is the last goal for the car, squared 18x11. If it doesn't work out, I think M4 GT4 parts might make it possible. It'll be questionable if I go that route vs just sticking to a staggered setup and accept the front/rear tire wear variance.
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      08-11-2020, 08:22 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Attachment 2385095

Was curious how hot the front rotors were getting. Looks like they get a bit warm. Painting the pad backs and caliper piston centers for Thursday. Expect I'll see similar brake temps, data should be a little useful.

Attachment 2385094
These are 18x11 EC-7 with 295/30r18 Toyo RRs up front, with a 25mm spacer. At the stock ride height there is roughly 2" of vertical clearance to the fender. Tires turn lock to lock without rubbing at 15mph. Ballpark .75" inboard clearance to the coilover, and given the slight tire stretch, I'm hoping the inside won't deform enough to rub.

A little worried that under compression it will rub the outside shoulder on the fender. In theory given the camber and the angle of the coilover, it looks like it'll tuck in. I'll take it easy on the first session, gradually add more cornering and check for rubbing signs.

This is the last goal for the car, squared 18x11. If it doesn't work out, I think M4 GT4 parts might make it possible. It'll be questionable if I go that route vs just sticking to a staggered setup and accept the front/rear tire wear variance.
If you find you are rubbing on the outside fender, you might not need that much inboard clearance. I have about 0.25" and have never rubbed the strut.
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      08-11-2020, 12:50 PM   #100
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If you find you are rubbing on the outside fender, you might not need that much inboard clearance. I have about 0.25" and have never rubbed the strut.
Good to know that a thinner spacer could be an option. It's definitely a tight fit, but it looks very possible.
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      08-16-2020, 12:12 AM   #101
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Open lapping on Thursday was a great experience. I went out with the goal to primarily gather fitment/temperature data, didn't bring a lap data logger.

18x11 squared with 295/30r18 Toyo RRs fit. +44 wheels on all 4 corners, 25mm spacer up front, -3.1 degrees front camber, -1.9 degrees rear camber. Street ride height, race shock settings(most importantly softening rear compression). No signs of rubbing, good temperatures across the tire, phenomenal grip.

I roasted my front brake fluid. Motul RBF600 + Carbotech XP12, AP9668/9449, no dust shields. Fronts got toasted after 12 8/10ths laps. The temperature paint on the back of the pads registered beige/800C. Big yikes. I'm going to add the 997 GT3 brake air deflectors, repaint the rotor/pads, flush the fluid, and try again.

The RRs resolved all my frustrations with the rear grip on this platform. My used NT01s must have been heat cycled out. I really regret not just waiting ~6 weeks for Apex to get EC-7s back in stock. The horrific throttle induced oversteer is no longer an issue. If I late apex, I can smash the throttle like an idiot the moment the car is mostly straight and it'll scoot. Otherwise the car is immensely controllable, working the wheel to greedily stay in the throttle is cake. I'm quite excited to actually start working with this car.

Last related tidbit, knocked out some plans on converting a m235i to a m235ir clone. Looking like this fall/winter is going to be a furious build/test cycle.

The titanium exhaust on the car is the only part that I'm excited to see it see some heat.

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Next lapping will probably be early September, should have a Solo2 DL installed + GT3 brake air deflectors. Otherwise no changes planned, just more seat time with these tires.
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      08-16-2020, 07:54 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Open lapping on Thursday was a great experience. I went out with the goal to primarily gather fitment/temperature data, didn't bring a lap data logger.

18x11 squared with 295/30r18 Toyo RRs fit. +44 wheels on all 4 corners, 25mm spacer up front, -3.1 degrees front camber, -1.9 degrees rear camber. Street ride height, race shock settings(most importantly softening rear compression). No signs of rubbing, good temperatures across the tire, phenomenal grip.

I roasted my front brake fluid. Motul RBF600 + Carbotech XP12, AP9668/9449, no dust shields. Fronts got toasted after 12 8/10ths laps. The temperature paint on the back of the pads registered beige/800C. Big yikes. I'm going to add the 997 GT3 brake air deflectors, repaint the rotor/pads, flush the fluid, and try again.

The RRs resolved all my frustrations with the rear grip on this platform. My used NT01s must have been heat cycled out. I really regret not just waiting ~6 weeks for Apex to get EC-7s back in stock. The horrific throttle induced oversteer is no longer an issue. If I late apex, I can smash the throttle like an idiot the moment the car is mostly straight and it'll scoot. Otherwise the car is immensely controllable, working the wheel to greedily stay in the throttle is cake. I'm quite excited to actually start working with this car.

Last related tidbit, knocked out some plans on converting a m235i to a m235ir clone. Looking like this fall/winter is going to be a furious build/test cycle.

The titanium exhaust on the car is the only part that I'm excited to see it see some heat.

Attachment 2389798

Next lapping will probably be early September, should have a Solo2 DL installed + GT3 brake air deflectors. Otherwise no changes planned, just more seat time with these tires.
Just a thought, had similar issues with brake temperature and fade: have you tried the Ferodo DS3.12? I’ve run that with Castrol SRF and have been pleasantly surprised with the systems ability to tolerate heavy braking tracks like Laguna Seca. Temperature strips on the outside of the caliper below, but pleased with performance. The stock rear only hold up because of the more aggressive pad (F) - shifting a little brake balance to the front, sub optimal to say the least.

First time able to push the car for more than 2 or 3 laps at >80%.

Each track and driving style is different, but seemed like it was worth mentioning.

Need to get some temperature paint for the rotors, super useful information.
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      08-17-2020, 12:27 PM   #103
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Some clarification, I don't think I was seeing pad fade. I cut my last session short after 3 laps, in addition to darkness approaching, the top of the brake pedal felt like a sponge. Pulling the car off the trailer and the pedal sank a good bit before biting. All classic symptoms of boiled fluid. I imagine the front calipers will dump a nice slug of coked fluid when I get to pushing clean fluid.

I'm pretty certain the DS3.12 is a downgrade over the XP12, given the higher effective temperature range of the XP12, and the higher friction coefficient of the XP12. If I change out pad materials, I'm likely going back to the Hawk DCT70/60 combination that worked wonders on my STI. Those pads held up to stupid amounts of heat. A little cooling will go a long way, given how fin-dense the AP Racing friction rings are.
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      08-17-2020, 01:24 PM   #104
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I've never had a set of NT01s cord before heat cycling out. They last longer than any other tire I've been on but mine were wasted well before I was out of tread.
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      08-18-2020, 09:39 AM   #105
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Glad to hear 295 square is working out. Props for having the balls to go for it...

When you say street ride height, you mean street/factory? Not down to track spec?

Had very good results with this + the DS3.12 https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-...e-fluid-cp6005
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      08-18-2020, 11:53 AM   #106
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Glad to hear 295 square is working out. Props for having the balls to go for it...

When you say street ride height, you mean street/factory? Not down to track spec?

Had very good results with this + the DS3.12 https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-...e-fluid-cp6005
Yeah, the factory ride height. I've not removed any collars outside of when I temporarily removed the front collars to lower the perches to swap in the camber plates.

Might give that a shot if cooling doesn't address things. I'd like to be able to hit the front hub with a little airflow just to help it out, I can't imagine it is doing any good to cook it in a ring of fire that is the rotor.
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      08-18-2020, 12:16 PM   #107
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Yeah, the factory ride height. I've not removed any collars outside of when I temporarily removed the front collars to lower the perches to swap in the camber plates.

Might give that a shot if cooling doesn't address things. I'd like to be able to hit the front hub with a little airflow just to help it out, I can't imagine it is doing any good to cook it in a ring of fire that is the rotor.
Bit of airflow certainly can't hurt.

Will be interested to hear handling impressions once you drop to factory track spec. Think the 295's will still work, or does this fitment rely upon the slightly higher ride height?
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      08-18-2020, 02:33 PM   #108
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Bit of airflow certainly can't hurt.

Will be interested to hear handling impressions once you drop to factory track spec. Think the 295's will still work, or does this fitment rely upon the slightly higher ride height?
I'm not sure. I'd like to get a GoPro mounted somewhere around the fender to be able to watch the wheel movement during heavy compression. It was already annoying enough gradually adding speed and listening for damage-inducing rubbing on the front fenders.
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      08-24-2020, 11:47 PM   #109
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Thanks to EGbeater for the 997 scoops. I'll repaint the rotors and pads to see if the scoops make a measurable difference. It looks like they'll catch a good bit of the air passing through the auxillary coolers(transmission and intercooler water loops I believe) in the foglight area. Will hopefully also scoop a little air that passes under the front splitter. Otherwise dumping the engine oil and brake fluid tomorrow. AiM Solo 2 DL next week, and then back out to the track.

Looking back a year ago when I bought this car, I thought I'd be daily driving it and maybe take it to the track a few times. COVID-19 means no daily driving, and canyon cruising quickly lost its fun. The car turned 2,000 miles at the track on the 13th..
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      08-31-2020, 05:54 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post
Some clarification, I don't think I was seeing pad fade. I cut my last session short after 3 laps, in addition to darkness approaching, the top of the brake pedal felt like a sponge. Pulling the car off the trailer and the pedal sank a good bit before biting. All classic symptoms of boiled fluid. I imagine the front calipers will dump a nice slug of coked fluid when I get to pushing clean fluid.

I'm pretty certain the DS3.12 is a downgrade over the XP12, given the higher effective temperature range of the XP12, and the higher friction coefficient of the XP12. If I change out pad materials, I'm likely going back to the Hawk DCT70/60 combination that worked wonders on my STI. Those pads held up to stupid amounts of heat. A little cooling will go a long way, given how fin-dense the AP Racing friction rings are.
Hell yes to Hawk DTC-70s all around with AP 9668/9449 on Toyo RRs staggered. Love AP calipers but hate the Ferodos they push on everyone. I doubt you’ll need cooling with DTC-70s.
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