Turbo coolant line leak - replacement approach

[M-SJ3]

Anyone experienced sweaty/leaking turbo coolant lines? I'm losing around 100ml coolant every 1000km's (see first picture)

Given they're solid lines, will there be any issue if I try to disassemble the leaking area only or does the entire line need to be taken off?

I have replacement o-rings and bolts - or should the entire line be replaced?

If you've done this before would appreciate any advice! Happy to take the entire line off if that's what I need to do to do the job properly but if I can get away with pulling the leaking section only that would make things easier.

Appreciate it

[ONEof500]

I just got diagnosed with this issue. Working on getting my mechanic scheduled. Dealer said 6k!

[M-SJ3]

$6k! USD? Thats insane... did they advise on what was involved for that quote?

[theweebabySeamus]

Havent done it but I've seeen writeups for DIY's and its not too bad. Definitely way cheaper than 6k.

[M-SJ3]

I've got access to ISTA and the process look straight forward. Just wondering if there's anything that will give me a trouble along the way that you only know when you've done a job, if you know what I mean!

Can you share any of the DIYs?

[ADE T]

Originally Posted by M-SJ3

Anyone experienced sweaty/leaking turbo coolant lines? I'm losing around 100ml coolant every 1000km's (see first picture)

Given they're solid lines, will there be any issue if I try to disassemble the leaking area only or does the entire line need to be taken off?

I have replacement o-rings and bolts - or should the entire line be replaced?

If you've done this before would appreciate any advice! Happy to take the entire line off if that's what I need to do to do the job properly but if I can get away with pulling the leaking section only that would make things easier.

Appreciate it

Did you manage to fix this leak?

[M-SJ3]

Just thought I'd update my original post as information on this across all F8x platforms is limited.

I was able to remove the turbo coolant supply and return lines from turbo #2 (cyl 4-6) with the turbo intact and not having to remove the entire line.
There's flex bends conveniently located at the ends of the lines, allowing enough give. You will need to remove all the rear plumbing/piping on the intakes/charge pipes to give you enough access from under the car and allow the lines to move (I was changing over my chargepipes anyway).

Then there are 3 T30 torx bolts which are near impossible to remove without the right tool and small hands (which I don't have), had to use a little stubby ratchet with a torx bit.

One torx bolt holding the lines inside the turbo (1 bolt for both lines as you can see, the supply sits ontop of the return)

One torx bolt holding bracket for supply line located adjacent

One torx bolt holding bracket for return located adajecent (just follow the line)

Once you remove all bolts you will need to use some leverage to move the lines side to side to release the grab of the o-ring. My leaking line (supply) was extremely difficult to remove compared to the non-leaking line.

You will also need to be very careful not to put too much pressure or force on the wastegate actuator mechanism while moving your hands around.

I replaced both o-rings (part #11427558936) and based on the condition, the supply line was the culprit (photo showing old vs new). Cleaned the area inside the turbo as best as I could, new o-ring and silicon grease/sealant. The return line had a blue looking o ring which was the same size. New torx bolts for the lines and brackets (part #07129905867)

Side note, I drained all the coolant as I wanted to do a flush but this will be possible with coolant in the system but be prepared to plug the lines etc.
Torque setting for the bolts is only 10nm so tighten them snug as you can't get a torque wrench in there (don't over tighten as the o ring is what seals here)

This is a painful job to do due to the limited access that you have and the coolant lines being quite tricky to handle.

I'll report back on whether this was 100% fix and no leaks (fingers and toes crossed)

Hopefully this helps someone out!

[ADE T]

Originally Posted by M-SJ3

Just thought I'd update my original post as information on this across all F8x platforms is limited.

I was able to remove the turbo coolant supply and return lines from turbo #2 (cyl 4-6) with the turbo intact and not having to remove the entire line.
There's flex bends conveniently located at the ends of the lines, allowing enough give. You will need to remove all the rear plumbing/piping on the intakes/charge pipes to give you enough access from under the car and allow the lines to move (I was changing over my chargepipes anyway).

Then there are 3 T30 torx bolts which are near impossible to remove without the right tool and small hands (which I don't have), had to use a little stubby ratchet with a torx bit.

One torx bolt holding the lines inside the turbo (1 bolt for both lines as you can see, the supply sits ontop of the return)

One torx bolt holding bracket for supply line located adjacent

One torx bolt holding bracket for return located adajecent (just follow the line)

Once you remove all bolts you will need to use some leverage to move the lines side to side to release the grab of the o-ring. My leaking line (supply) was extremely difficult to remove compared to the non-leaking line.

You will also need to be very careful not to put too much pressure or force on the wastegate actuator mechanism while moving your hands around.

I replaced both o-rings (part #11427558936) and based on the condition, the supply line was the culprit (photo showing old vs new). Cleaned the area inside the turbo as best as I could, new o-ring and silicon grease/sealant. The return line had a blue looking o ring which was the same size. New torx bolts for the lines and brackets (part #07129905867)

Side note, I drained all the coolant as I wanted to do a flush but this will be possible with coolant in the system but be prepared to plug the lines etc.
Torque setting for the bolts is only 10nm so tighten them snug as you can't get a torque wrench in there (don't over tighten as the o ring is what seals here)

This is a painful job to do due to the limited access that you have and the coolant lines being quite tricky to handle.

I'll report back on whether this was 100% fix and no leaks (fingers and toes crossed)

Hopefully this helps someone out!

Thank you, that’s really useful and gives a good insight when I tackle the job.

I wasn’t planning on draining the coolant, will I lose much coolant by disconnecting the pipes? Also can it be rebled without a vacuum setup?

Looking on realoem there are two coolant lines with 5 o rings in total, wondering how come you only replaced two out of interest?

[M-SJ3]

Originally Posted by ADE T

Thank you, that’s really useful and gives a good insight when I tackle the job.

I wasn’t planning on draining the coolant, will I lose much coolant by disconnecting the pipes? Also can it be rebled without a vacuum setup?

Looking on realoem there are two coolant lines with 5 o rings in total, wondering how come you only replaced two out of interest?

Shouldn't loose too much coolant, maybe 200-300ml across both lines. I would vaccum fill as the system is a complex one and you wouldn't want any air-locking! It'll probably be fine, although I always tread on the side of caution.

When you get under the car and see how much space you have you'll only want to replace what you have to. The rest of the lines looked fine to me and no signs of leaks; If I wanted to do all o-rings I would have just replaced the lines themselves. It's a PITA job.

[ONEof500]

Originally Posted by M-SJ3

$6k! USD? Thats insane... did they advise on what was involved for that quote?

Ya so not doing at dealer. How many miles on your car? 50k for me.

I decided to go ahead and replace all lines on both sides oil and coolant as well as new turbos.

[M-SJ3]

Originally Posted by ONEof500

Ya so not doing at dealer. How many miles on your car? 50k for me.

I decided to go ahead and replace all lines on both sides oil and coolant as well as new turbos.

Are you getting an independent shop to do the work for you? New turbos as well? Upgrading them? What are they charging you for the work (approx)

My car only has 47k kms / 29k miles

[ONEof500]

Originally Posted by M-SJ3

Are you getting an independent shop to do the work for you? New turbos as well? Upgrading them? What are they charging you for the work (approx)

My car only has 47k kms / 29k miles

Yes Indy shop. Doing new turbos because 50k miles and I am in there so might as well. Sticking with stock turbos. 2800 in labor 2500 in parts.

So for what the dealer wanted to fix a leak I am replacing both turbos, all lines and gaskets.