Track forum general chit chat

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

This is a bimmerworld kit. New purchased directly through them.

These have 13,000 miles from spring 2022.

I had MCS evaluate through photos and they believe it’s from the seal. The banjo is at the bottom of the strut in the rear and since there’s fluid above, it’s likely not leaking from the banjo.
This hasn’t always been like this as I’ve inspected these in the past so it’s unlikely this is caused by them removing the banjo on the strut end.

I’ve attached another photo of the trunk for others who may not be as familiar.

As for the air vents, are you guys referring to the upper left and right in the second photo?

The air vents are toward the back of the trunk. The right side vent is located behind the battery. Left side is in the same location but with nothing blocking it.

My concern with removing the banjo swivel fitting is you’ll lose hydraulic fluid and, unless they purchased fluid from MCS, you may have mixed viscosity fluids and not a complete fill of fluid especially if fluid is added with the strut/shock is still mounted on the car.

[MaX PL]

Oh I agree , they definitely screwed these up somehow in terms of fluid by removing the banjo. Perhaps over or under filled and why this failed prematurely.

I’ll reroute properly once I get this back from MCS.

This work was done by Auto Couture in NJ so others are aware.

[RugbyBro]

Absolutely no way the rear QD fitting can go thru that hole - it’s pretty chunky still. Sorry to see you having problems with leaking

Most MCS I’ve seen are usually only front QD, I had to ask for rear QD when ordering from BW. Same goes for Racewerkz and other vendors I know.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

This work was done by Auto Couture in NJ so others are aware.

Right on point for them

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Absolutely no way the rear QD fitting can go thru that hole - it’s pretty chunky still. Sorry to see you having problems with leaking

Most MCS I’ve seen are usually only front QD, I had to ask for rear QD when ordering from BW. Same goes for Racewerkz and other vendors I know.

A step bit makes easy work of widening that hole to pass the QDs through, that's what I did for mine. I found some amazon grommets to seal things up but fit isn't perfect, need to tidy that up a bit more in winter maybe

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Absolutely no way the rear QD fitting can go thru that hole - it’s pretty chunky still. Sorry to see you having problems with leaking

Most MCS I’ve seen are usually only front QD, I had to ask for rear QD when ordering from BW. Same goes for Racewerkz and other vendors I know.

Front-only QDs are MCS 2/3/4WR baseline configuration for the f8x and e9x M (I believe this is the same baseline for the g8x). Rear QD’s are optional for the f8x and e92 M. A few years ago their application list used to state whether QDs are standard or an option. I guess their application list has grown substantially so they had to limit information provided for each application. They also used to show the QDs as an option but that’s no longer on their website either. Each distributor only shows QDs on the front because that’s the MCS baseline configuration for the e9x M and f8x (and g8x). When I purchased my 2WRs, BW would go thru a MCS build sheet so all options were discussed. Long term customers, BW knows how you’ve configured your dampers over the years and they’ll ask whether you want the same configuration. QDs are not inexpensive and some people skip them for that reason. It’s easy to route them without QDs through the side vents and then secure them to interior trim.

[MaX PL]

How do I get the top eye mount off these rear struts so that I can remove the springs? I see this silver nut in between the adjustment knob and blue helper spring which I assume I hold with a wrench while unthreading the top eye portion. Is that correct or no? I can’t get an adjustable wrench in the slotted portion.

[F80 M3 LTW]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

How do I get the top eye mount off these rear struts so that I can remove the springs? I see this silver nut in between the adjustment knob and blue helper spring which I assume I hold with a wrench while unthreading the top eye portion. Is that correct or no? I can’t get an adjustable wrench in the slotted portion.

Somebody who actually knows will chime in, but, I’m fairly certain you can push down on the upper spring perch (silver circle with the slot) and compress the helper spring. Then, using the slot in the perch slide it out the side. Then remove the springs.the springs should slide over the eye mount.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by F80 M3 LTW

Somebody who actually knows will chime in, but, I’m fairly certain you can push down on the upper spring perch (silver circle with the slot) and compress the helper spring. Then, using the slot in the perch slide it out the side. Then remove the springs.the springs should slide over the eye mount.

^This
But first lower your adjustment collar like halfway down the shaft to take the preload off of things, will make it easier

[MaX PL]

awesome. that sounds easy. need to find my spanner wrenches.

thanks for the help guys.

edit: do these come with spanner wrenches? had em for the MP HAS setup. if not, just what's a low effort method to loosen the collars?

oh nvm. its the yellow handled pen like tool, not a traditional spanner wrench. I do have these.

[RugbyBro]

i've taken my rear apart probably 5 or 6 times, I've never been able to get those off without lowering the spring perch to take the tension off - just mark where the perch is meant to be set on the shaft then spin in loose.

[MaX PL]

yeh I removed one an hour ago. definitely impossible without lowering the adjustment collar as jfritz mentioned.

[jfritz27]

... and may I say those are mighty clean -- do you keep covers/sleeves over them when on the car? I started doing that with my new 3WR setup, it's such an awesome piece of engineering, want to keep it as purdy and grime-free as I can since I daily the car

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

How do I get the top eye mount off these rear struts so that I can remove the springs? I see this silver nut in between the adjustment knob and blue helper spring which I assume I hold with a wrench while unthreading the top eye portion. Is that correct or no? I can’t get an adjustable wrench in the slotted portion.

Where/how is the hose passed into the trunk? The circled area looks like the hose is being damaged and forcefully pinched.

[MaX PL]

yeh I noted that hose damage on my service repair form. it's actually worse than it looks in that photo.
I'm not sure if I caused that getting it out of the trunk or if the installer did putting it in.

I'll be careful during reinstall and will route it through the air vent as others have mentioned.

And no, these were not this clean. I cleaned them before I ship to MCS.

[F80 M3 LTW]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

... and may I say those are mighty clean -- do you keep covers/sleeves over them when on the car? I started doing that with my new 3WR setup, it's such an awesome piece of engineering, want to keep it as purdy and grime-free as I can since I daily the car

Can you share a link to what you got? Those sound interesting!

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by F80 M3 LTW

Can you share a link to what you got? Those sound interesting!

I sold them to jfritz27. Here’s the link to them on BimmerWorld’s website:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Eibach-N...ng-Covers.html

They come in four lengths. I ordered the 14-16” length.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

yeh I noted that hose damage on my service repair form. it's actually worse than it looks in that photo.
I'm not sure if I caused that getting it out of the trunk or if the installer did putting it in.

I'll be careful during reinstall and will route it through the air vent as others have mentioned.

And no, these were not this clean. I cleaned them before I ship to MCS.

So you noted the damage on the service request form? If you noted it then does that mean MCS is fine with the hose damage? It’ll suck if you set the pressure at 250 psi (I’d recommend running 175-185 psi on track, 80-100 psi on street) and the line explodes while you’re on track! The outer hose wrap looks damaged in one location, unless that’s just the angle of the picture.

[mikerunt]

For all the Texans…

• What tracks are within 5hrs of Austin (besides COTA)
• Are peak summer months a no-go with the heat / hummidity (similar to chuckwalla being unbearable in summer)
• Are their good club / NASA / SCCA groups?

Thanks for the help!

[M1500Z]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

For all the Texans…

• What tracks are within 5hrs of Austin (besides COTA)
• Are peak summer months a no-go with the heat / hummidity (similar to chuckwalla being unbearable in summer)
• Are their good club / NASA / SCCA groups?

Thanks for the help!

Howdy tips cowboy hat. Looking at moving or already in the works?

There are a number of tracks near Austin:

• Harris Hill Raceway about 40ish minutes from Austin and a pretty fun layout. The track can be quite bumpy (putting it lightly) but recently got the worst section repaved.
• MSR Cresson close to the DFW area, a club track with several layouts (1.3, 1.7, 3.1 mile). The 1.7 is likely the most popular and is quite a bit of fun.
• MSR Houston out near Houston. I haven't driven it, but the wall is well known.
• Eagles Canyon Raceway arguably the best track in TX and North of Dallas in Decatur. Since new ownership and an adjustment to the layout, the track is a ton of fun.
• G2 Motorsports Park A newer track built by Lou Gigliotti also near Dallas.

Track season runs year round but some prefer to abstain during the summer as it can be brutally hot, sometimes starting as early as June and running well into September. NASA TX, whom I drive with most these days, has a summer break. They're a great group to run events with—IMO, it's just a great community vibe compared to DEs. I can't speak for SCCA. There are a number of DE groups who run events in the area with Chin and Apex likely being the best.

[mikerunt]

Very much appreciated - exactly what I was looking for a so much more. I am used to Buttonwillow and Willow Springs in June hitting 95+ and wrecking havoc on cars / drivers so I pick my battles in those peak summer months.

We just put and offer in on a home in the Shady Hollow area and are expecting to be out there around November or so…

Very stoked to hear there is a strong community and club presence out there - looking forward to getting involved!

[SYT_Shadow]

I've started taking a break in late July-mid September as it's too damn hot, bad for the cars and the drivers! and I'm in the Northeast!