10-15-2019, 07:00 PM | #90 | |
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The cause I proposed may be incorrect, however, the effect is undoubted. Aaaaand I'm traveling in Denver this week but I got a pic from home, my four sets of Bimmerworld flow forged wheels have arrived!!!!! YAY!!!! |
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10-15-2019, 08:07 PM | #91 | |
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I did enjoy thinking about the idea. It's wild! It would be closer working one for an early apexing, momentum preserving Miata on shorter corners. Maybe some drivers with real good control can pull the circus on some other longer corners. Still there would be many situations need throttle to maintain/control car's pitch or throttle steer. M4 and Miata lines have to be vastly different. M4 needs late apex on most of corners except short connecting ones because it's traction limited upon track out (and it's a lot more important to rotate and get out of corner ASAP). However, Miata can go full throttle with a lot more steering angle and hence taking the same line as M4 is totally wasteful; it can carry a lot more speed by taking earlier apex. Taking early apex and carrying more speed so that it's effectively traction limited upon exit would be more optimal. The 'not hitting apex' theory is what I wanted to experiment after driving M4 again but have not validated on Miata, but you still can enjoy thinking about it. It's like a kart line- making line wider to carry more speed. I think at some corners (not all corners) it may work. Well precisely not completely like kart line because Miata can still accelerate better than that.. but there will be an optimal line in between. Having all that said, I would still want to get on full throttle as early as possible. I'd recommend watching our chief driver (LOL) Joerg Weidinger's M4 GTS driving while paying attention to sound how early he's on the throttle and where car is pointed to with respect to apex and exit when he's on throttle. Also looking at steering at the moment shows how much rate of rotation he's getting. But yeah, I am always learning and willing to be enlightened anytime. |
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10-15-2019, 08:33 PM | #92 | |
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To be fast around a corner, you need to decelerate all the way to the apex and accelerate from there (unless the entry speed is insufficient due to the track layout). That "maintenance throttle from turn-in to apex" taught at HPDE events is complete BS. Watch any pro-driver video with telemetry and it is very obvious. It's important to note that one can also be partially on the throttle to balance the car and use throttle steer and still be decelerating on the way to the apex. The earlier you apex, the earlier you can be on the throttle. Late apex is safe, early apex is fast. And yes, it is possible to early apex with the F8X, you use the power to induce more rear lateral slip and generate rotation on track out. It takes finesse and lots of balls to do though, but it's tons of fun.
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10-15-2019, 09:20 PM | #93 | |
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10-15-2019, 11:12 PM | #94 | |
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I find it a bit intimidating with how fast the rear rotates in those conditions, plus timing when there will be boost is tricky for me still. There are so many more costs and consequences that I find myself super hesitant to experiment and I stick with slower entry and using the corner exit grip to power out (aka noob tactics) |
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10-16-2019, 06:14 AM | #95 |
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Quick question for you guys. Im starting to mess with the car and got it out of stock autox class. In stock class I went through a wide range of tires on the stock wheels.
Fronts: 265/35/19, 275/35/19, 285/35/19 (these rubbed front and rear fender liners at times and required a 7mm spacer) Rears 275/35/19, 285/35/19, 305/30/19 no issues with either set up. Now that I moved on to a different route, that includes lowering the car and camber plate along with 19x10 square wheels, I see no reason why a 305/30/19 can't fit up front and just run 305 square. Anybody here ever try a 305 front tire? I'm thinking if I get the offset to about 17-18, it should have no problem with clearance, and the fact that a 305/30 is shorter than a 285/35, there should be no fender liner contact in the front or rear of the front wheel well. |
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10-16-2019, 09:18 AM | #97 | |
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I would love to run a 305 square setup, I am just not ready to alter my car that much .
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10-16-2019, 05:50 PM | #98 |
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I have 305s laying around. I'll report back, based off what I see, it really should not be hard with 3 degrees.
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10-17-2019, 12:38 AM | #99 |
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Good luck, been there with 315/30-18’s. Ran the car for a few hundred miles and slowly ate away the liners. Running 295/30-18 on an 11” wheel now and it’s perfect. Lots of geometry changes in my situation but even with stock arms I think 295 is the sweet spot.
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10-17-2019, 11:06 AM | #100 | ||
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10-17-2019, 05:38 PM | #101 |
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Basic but just wanted to clarify the terminology, early vs late apex thing. Ignore the 'fastest line' marker- it all depends on type of car and type/distance of next corner.
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10-17-2019, 06:04 PM | #102 | |
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i'm assuming that this is part of the reason my laptimes are so slow (2:24ish at T-hill 3-mile w/ bypass)
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10-17-2019, 08:02 PM | #103 | ||
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Unfortunately there is no silver bullet to fix it because every driver does things a bit different. Take the best drivers and that all approach it a bit differently
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10-18-2019, 01:44 AM | #104 | |
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In other words: Use your brakes less for slowing you down and more for turning the car. Your lap times will improve dramatically.
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10-18-2019, 05:50 AM | #105 | |
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Proper braking technique and transition to throttle while coordinating steering input is the key here. A common mistake I see is students being light on the brakes early in the braking zone and then relying on added brake force to adjust the entry speed. There are two fundamental reasons why this is bad. First, by applying light pressure on the brakes they heat up and you then need to rely on hot brakes to slow you down more. This is a killer for brake endurance and life. Second, as you turn-in, you want to be applying less braking, not more. The trick is to be hard on the brakes right at the start of the braking zone, application needs remain smooth (i.e. squeeze, don't stomp on the brakes) but you need to be at maximum brake force right at the onset of the braking zone. You then adjust your entry speed by progressively releasing the brakes. This allows for a very smooth transition into turn-in and allows for seamless trail braking all the way to the apex if needed, plus you do most of the hard braking using cooler brakes fresh from barreling down the straight. The more steering input you give, the less brake force has to be applied. It is a balancing act up to the point where you get the car pointing in the right direction, you then get on the throttle to settle the rear managing deceleration down to the apex. You then get on the throttle more to start accelerating again at the apex while unwinding the steering wheel.
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10-18-2019, 10:27 AM | #106 |
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This thread makes me want to leave work early.
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10-20-2019, 02:38 AM | #107 |
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I really appreciate the thing that nicknaz brought up, "carrying so much speed into a turn so that you can't get on throttle even by apex." Although I would still imagine it (my lowly opinion ) as a Miata-like thing in order to maximize momentum (perhaps would be scary to even hit the apex) as it does not gain much by maximizing track out acceleration like M4, the continuing discussions with y'all made me think about the mid-corner phase in a way I didn't.
One way to look at how to minimize the mid-corner phase (between end of braking and full throttle, which I incorrectly labeled as "maintenance throttle" that caused confusion- sorry I never heard that term in that way before), I have to avoid the traction circle hanging near maximum x point (thinking as x-horizontal and y-vertical axis, as shown in attached screenshot from Pobst's GT4 video) as much as possible. So looking at these pro drivers' traction circles around the mid-corner shows how they handle it; such as how quick they are on full throttle after end of braking, except a long corner. But even at a longer corner (like that turn of Laguna in the screenshot) Pobst might be handling the mid-corner phase a bit different than I do a longer corner. So much fun! Oh, also seeing how much he spends on braking while wheel is turned (traction circle in diagonal direction, he stays there for a while at few corners) implies how late he starts braking and fast he enters the corner. Last edited by MyFragileHalogen; 10-20-2019 at 03:06 AM.. |
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10-20-2019, 06:03 AM | #108 |
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My advice to people who start to learn trail-braking is to pay attention to how weight shifts. First find a safe corner free of walls and try braking about 20-40% (to be safer) and then start smoothly turn the wheel, assuming it's left turn, and feel how weight moves from front end to the right front and then to the right as you release brake pressure. As you turn wheel and weight shifts you can feel suspension being loaded (springs are compressed) to front right side- it's a great feeling as it's loaded and ready for 'action.' From that you can manipulate the vector (direction and amount) of the weight by both brake and steering inputs to see how car reacts and find limits. Eventually it can be done from higher braking pressure, higher speed..and (maybe..) where walls are close.
Key is careful, incremental experiments and feel of and smoothness in weight transfer. Then.. brake pedal from throttle pedal transition should (be smooth enough to) maintain how weight is loaded as before beginning track out of the corner. If an instructor is not quite happy with your smoothness, most likely you are not smooth enough. Sometimes it may feel like you are doing smooth enough for what you do and they sound like a bit too much (for even their driving pace); but as you get faster and faster, YOU will need that smoothness eventually. |
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10-20-2019, 02:45 PM | #109 | |
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10-21-2019, 04:37 PM | #110 | |
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One more (realistic) consideration would be speed on that corner and how close walls are. Has to take time on that one. |
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