Consensus on wheel studs?

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Reviving this oldie...

I am considering whether to buy extended wheel bolts or install long 92mm studs to use with my new track wheels (ET40 square) which require a 15-20mm spacer up front. My street/plan B wheel set-up is direct fit up front-- ET25, so no spacer. Will the 92mm studs protrude too far with my street/Plan B set-up. Is there any downside or risk to that? I don't want to be that truck driver.

Also, are there impact sockets deep enough to access the stud nuts when the wheel is mounded?

Wisdom appreciated.

[NYG]

I too prefer studs.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Reviving this oldie...

I am considering whether to buy extended wheel bolts or install long 92mm studs to use with my new track wheels (ET40 square) which require a 15-20mm spacer up front. My street/plan B wheel set-up is direct fit up front-- ET25, so no spacer. Will the 92mm studs protrude too far with my street/Plan B set-up. Is there any downside or risk to that? I don't want to be that truck driver.

Also, are there impact sockets deep enough to access the stud nuts when the wheel is mounded?

Wisdom appreciated.

Might be able to rig up a 17mm pass-through setup if a standard deep socket won't cut it...

[MaX PL]

Wheels:
Front & Rear: 18x10.5" ET40
Available in: ARC-8R, EC-7R, EC-7RS, FL-5, VS-5RS
Adjustable camber plates required
18-25mm front spacers required depending on tire size/model & suspension configuration
Motorsport-oriented coilovers with a slim spring silhouette and favorable lower spring perch location required
Tires:
APEX Staff Pick: Front & Rear 295/30-18 tires
A minimum of -3º of camber is required up front, rear is direct fit
Extreme Performance Summer: Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 Connect (240TW), Yokohama Advan A052 (200TW), Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
R-Compound: Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R (60TW), Toyo R888R (100TW), Nankang AR-1 (100TW)
Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW), Toyo Proxes RR (40TW)
Wider Alternative: Front & Rear 305-645-18 tires
A minimum of -3º of camber is required up front, rear is direct fit
Racing Slick: Pirelli DH
Narrower Alternative: Front & Rear 275/35-18 tires
A minimum of -2.5º of camber up front is required, rear is a direct fit
Extreme Performance Summer: Dunlop Direzza ZIII (200TW), Falken Azenis RT660 (200TW), Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3 (220TW), BFGoodrich G-Force Rival S 1.5 (200TW), Continental Extremecontact Force (200TW), Nankang CR-1 (200 TW)
R-Compound: Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3R (100TW), Toyo R888R (100TW), Toyo Proxes RA1 (100TW), Nitto NT01 (100TW), Nankang AR-1 (100TW), Maxxis RC-1 (100TW)
Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW), BF Goodrich R1S (40TW), Toyo Proxes RR (40TW)


I guess I have to contact Core4 and get longer studs. They recommend going 75mm stud with up to a 12mm spacer, but from this Apex guide along with some other searches, should have went with 90mm. I asked them about this specific wheel but didn't get a great response and now have another headache.
edit: nvm. They have 75 and 90mm on their site but was told through email that their options are actually 82 and 94mm. Wonder if I'm okay after all.
The is annoying.
edit2: Core4 stated in another email that 82mm should be good for up to a 15mm spacer.

Wow I really didn't read any of these emails...

[Suds]

Spacers are a pain in the ass without wheel studs. I tried it.
I have wheel studs on my M2 and M4.
I also carry a 17mm deep well socket in case I need to go to a tire shop.

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Reviving this oldie...

I am considering whether to buy extended wheel bolts or install long 92mm studs to use with my new track wheels (ET40 square) which require a 15-20mm spacer up front. My street/plan B wheel set-up is direct fit up front-- ET25, so no spacer. Will the 92mm studs protrude too far with my street/Plan B set-up. Is there any downside or risk to that? I don't want to be that truck driver.

Also, are there impact sockets deep enough to access the stud nuts when the wheel is mounded?

Wisdom appreciated.

[heyyouduh]

I have stayed with bolts for my dual duty car and constantly have a set of spares... easy and cheap to replace if I see any with threads starting to get frayed and plan to replace the set every couple of years as preventative maintenance. Came close to purchasing motorsports hardware studs but so far the bolts are working out. Also I assume most are using screw in studs in the stock hub and not pressed in studs, have never used screw in style studs so I'm a bit, maybe illogically, skeptical.

[sly1types]

For cars that you tracking, you are always taking the wheels off, so its a must. I usually use the Turner Motorsports studs and then i swap them out every 2-3 yrs.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Thank you. Another member recommended this very deep socket. Hopefully it allows me to access the nut with long studs.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Thank you. Another member recommended this very deep socket. Hopefully it allows me to access the nut with long studs.

you can cover it in masking tape if you want

[jmg]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

you can cover it in masking tape if you want

BMS makes one with a plastic sheath. It's nice and purdy too... easy to see in the toolbag.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Protip on these sockets: theres an annoying plastic stopper inside the socket that might prevent engagement to the nut on longer studs (you can actually see it in the 2nd photo on the amazon page). Just knock it out from the other end. They are just pressure fitted, so it's easy. They prevent damage to the stud if they are too long, but so long as they are not contacting at the connection point, it's all good.

[jmg]

Studs are a godsend when taking the wheels on and off. Good if you're playing with multiple spacer sizes too. Downsides are it's a bit more difficult to replace if one should strip or break etc. You can't just go to Autozone and get a stud. Also, some tire shops won't work on cars with studs for liability reasons that I don't fully understand. So I sometimes just take the wheels in another car if I'm getting a flat repair, or new tires mounted at certain shops. Mobile tire mounting services don't seem to mind though.

[drroc]

https://motorsporthardware.com/produ...d-kit-14x1-25/
I use these, and just replace them once a season.

The nylon coated deep socket is also awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-2...s%2C986&sr=8-2

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Thx all. I ended up buying the BimmerWorld 92mm and 73mm bullet point studs front and rear.

I removed the plastic piece from my 17mm socket. With my street wheel setup (sans 20mm spacer) I'm hoping this socket is deep enough to call engage with the nut.

[icegrill]

Love my apex wheel studs. No issues and look great with hres. Main thing is to only install them with blue loctite, so you don't have removal issues down the road.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Originally Posted by icegrill

Love my apex wheel studs. No issues and look great with hres. Main thing is to only install them with blue loctite, so you don't have removal issues down the road.

thanks. The studs I purchased have thread locker pre-applied. Is that sufficient or should I supplement with blue loctite?

Also, what are folks using to prep the hub threads before installing? I was planning on buying this brush thing or one that I can use with a drill. Good?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

thanks. The studs I purchased have thread locker pre-applied. Is that sufficient or should I supplement with blue loctite?

Also, what are folks using to prep the hub threads before installing? I was planning on buying this brush thing or one that I can use with a drill. Good?

the BW ones come with threadlocker preapplied. Use that.

[Tonym344]

Definitely studs if you track the car. They make life easier. Also, re-torque stresses the stud each time. If you go with FCP Euro, you can replace them under warranty at no cost for life. Use PayPal for the purchase and PayPal picks up the shipping. I do this for oil and other wear items. Brake fluid included.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...YaAj7QEALw_wcB

[MJ6]

Just chiming in here as I'll be performing a stud conversion to BimmerWorld's 73mm (both front and rear) but not for the reasons of tracking the car.

During wheel mounting at a local shop, one of the lug bolts on my left rear wheel were over torqued which resulted in damage to the wheel hub threads. It doesn't typically come recommended to attempt and rethread the hub, so the entire hub needed to be replaced. Unfortunately, as some others have experienced, the axle refused to separate (we used a 40ton press and it still didn't budge).

The end result for a stripped bolt hole? Complete axle, hub and knuckle replacement which wasn't cheap by any means.

Ultimately I'd much rather risk the inconvenience of having to drill out a stud for replacement as opposed to the risk of potentially damaging the hub and going through that debacle again.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by MJ6

Just chiming in here as I'll be performing a stud conversion to BimmerWorld's 73mm (both front and rear) but not for the reasons of tracking the car.

During wheel mounting at a local shop, one of the lug bolts on my left rear wheel were over torqued which resulted in damage to the wheel hub threads. It doesn't typically come recommended to attempt and rethread the hub, so the entire hub needed to be replaced. Unfortunately, as some others have experienced, the axle refused to separate (we used a 40ton press and it still didn't budge).

The end result for a stripped bolt hole? Complete axle, hub and knuckle replacement which wasn't cheap by any means.

Ultimately I'd much rather risk the inconvenience of having to drill out a stud for replacement as opposed to the risk of potentially damaging the hub and going through that debacle again.

God that is so utterly painful -- my condolences

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by MJ6

Just chiming in here as I'll be performing a stud conversion to BimmerWorld's 73mm (both front and rear) but not for the reasons of tracking the car.

During wheel mounting at a local shop, one of the lug bolts on my left rear wheel were over torqued which resulted in damage to the wheel hub threads. It doesn't typically come recommended to attempt and rethread the hub, so the entire hub needed to be replaced. Unfortunately, as some others have experienced, the axle refused to separate (we used a 40ton press and it still didn't budge).

The end result for a stripped bolt hole? Complete axle, hub and knuckle replacement which wasn't cheap by any means.

Ultimately I'd much rather risk the inconvenience of having to drill out a stud for replacement as opposed to the risk of potentially damaging the hub and going through that debacle again.

You can also be dumb like me get distracted/forget to torque a wheel and drive around paddock for a hundred feet before noticing. Ha... Next few months i cracked few studs not really corelating it to that event.

Ended up angling one of the thread points in my rear hub and cracking studs as a result then having to drill out. Finally figured it out and had to replace rear hub.

Read several posts about the axle locking up and was really worried about that. Doesnt sound like fun. Had a shop do mine.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by irokdayellup

You can also be dumb like me get distracted/forget to torque a wheel and drive around paddock for a hundred feet before noticing. Ha... Next few months i cracked few studs not really corelating it to that event.

Ended up angling one of the thread points in my rear hub and cracking studs as a result then having to drill out. Finally figured it out and had to replace rear hub.

Read several posts about the axle locking up and was really worried about that. Doesnt sound like fun. Had a shop do mine.

Um... guilty as well. Swapped out pads for a track day, took the car around the block and realized I forgot to torque down my studs on the front passenger side. Luckily I did the pad swap on a Thursday night instead of a Friday night and still managed to make it to the track after my shop was willing to accommodate my last second request for new studs!

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

So today I installed new wheel studs to replace ones that turned out to be too short. The double nut method absolutely sucks, especially on a spinning front axle. My back hurts, my knuckles are bloody and my studs are probably going to pop out like loose teeth from my shitty install.

Next time I will try a stud extractor which can also be used to install/torque studs. This method was recommended by another forum member.