Consensus on wheel studs?

[TopJimmy]

Does anyone know where I can get a set of M14x1.25 flange bots to use for torquing in and pulling out studs? Everything seems to be EBay from China…

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Does anyone know where I can get a set of M14x1.25 flange bots to use for torquing in and pulling out studs? Everything seems to be EBay from China…

How bout these?
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Silver-L...-M14-17mm.html

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

So today I installed new wheel studs to replace ones that turned out to be too short. The double nut method absolutely sucks, especially on a spinning front axle. My back hurts, my knuckles are bloody and my studs are probably going to pop out like loose teeth from my shitty install.

Next time I will try a stud extractor which can also be used to install/torque studs. This method was recommended by another forum member.

I also did my studs yesterday, and have that extractor, which was great for removal. For install, you'd need to be sure you don't bite the threads, and you'll need a large enough box wrench to counter-hold it on the collar when it's time to pull it off the stud after install so you don't unscrew the stud in the process. That thing really bites down. A crow's foot on a breaker bar may be the slickest as it'll give you more leverage for the counter-hold (I need to remember this for double-nut method in future).

It occurred to me that when I switch to front Giros after burning up my OEM rotors I'll lose the ability to stick a screwdriver in one of the holes to keep the rotor from turning.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

How bout these?
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Silver-L...-M14-17mm.html

BW sells a specific kit to do the double nut thing

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

I also did my studs yesterday, and have that extractor, which was great for removal. For install, you'd need to be sure you don't bite the threads, and you'll need a large enough box wrench to counter-hold it on the collar when it's time to pull it off the stud after install so you don't unscrew the stud in the process. That thing really bites down. A crow's foot on a breaker bar may be the slickest as it'll give you more leverage for the counter-hold (I need to remember this for double-nut method in future).

It occurred to me that when I switch to front Giros after burning up my OEM rotors I'll lose the ability to stick a screwdriver in one of the holes to keep the rotor from turning.

That tool is a miracle worker, and I use it for extraction and most importantly for install.

You need a big wrench that can hold it. I've used this tool so much and it's so awesome I keep a second one handy

[coolmody]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

So today I installed new wheel studs to replace ones that turned out to be too short. The double nut method absolutely sucks, especially on a spinning front axle. My back hurts, my knuckles are bloody and my studs are probably going to pop out like loose teeth from my shitty install.

Next time I will try a stud extractor which can also be used to install/torque studs. This method was recommended by another forum member.

I'm going to give this tool a try. I replaced my studs yesterday and the double-nut method went smoothly on the passenger side. It wasn't so fun on the driver side. I blame this on the heat generated on the driver side with the tracks I frequent being clockwise. Without the tool, I ended up using the double nut method with an impact gun. I would impact the outer nut while holding the inner nut with a box wrench. Instead of turning the inner nut using the open box wrench to release the stud, I impacted the outer nut. Somehow the grip of the double nut method and the "bap-bap-bap" of the impact gun loosened the studs quite easily. I could see this being effective for those who can't jam a screwdriver into their front rotors to prevent them from moving as well.

Adding a photo of what success felt like.

[MaX PL]

You guys should switch to pressed studs like I did. Look how easy this is.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wai...vZSePwdDO/view

He uses this btw:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...ps%2C68&sr=8-1

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

You guys should switch to pressed studs like I did. Look how easy this is.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wai...vZSePwdDO/view

He uses this btw:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...ps%2C68&sr=8-1

Hmmm nifty -- this requires hub modification though, no?

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

That tool is a miracle worker, and I use it for extraction and most importantly for install.

You need a big wrench that can hold it. I've used this tool so much and it's so awesome I keep a second one handy

And if old studs are still being stubborn, apply some targeted heat at the base for 30-60 sec or so. Just a small butane torch will do.

[fleetfoot]

Bimmerworld just released a nice DIY on replacing studs: