03-05-2021, 08:44 PM | #45 | ||
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2015 M3 - AW 6Spd w/ CCB
MCS 2WR Dampers, Spec Twin Disk Clutch, MaxPSI CH, F80Paul Ethanol Tune, 3.5in DPs |
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03-05-2021, 09:14 PM | #46 | ||
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03-06-2021, 01:35 AM | #47 |
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03-06-2021, 07:10 PM | #48 |
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I'm stubborn and not resting cuz new car parts. I'm having zero issues with either brake bridges they all come off easily by hand for the time being bolted in and torqued to spec. Rear shield bolts sort of a pain to get to until I figured out you can just stick the extension through the stud hole (removing studs to replace them for the season).
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03-06-2021, 08:20 PM | #49 | |
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03-06-2021, 08:32 PM | #50 | ||
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03-08-2021, 12:10 PM | #51 | |
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I talked with Adam last week and found out that SR34 does NOT have 62mm wide version that these kits need. only SR33 has the 62mm fitment. |
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03-08-2021, 12:49 PM | #52 | ||
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03-08-2021, 04:15 PM | #53 |
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yea i decided to give SR33 a try. If I do not like it, I will go back to PFC08 with 50mm width. According to Essex "Other common radial depths in this pad shape are 43mm and 39mm. Those radial depths will fit into our caliper, but you will be leaving an unswept 'ring' around the disc near the attachment points to the hat (the pad will not hang as low in the caliper). Leaving a portion of the disc face unswept can create a temperature differential across the face of the disc, and doing so could lead to premature disc cracking. That said, we have not run into such a problem with our kits in the field." TLDR - Running a pad that's narrower than rotor friction ring should NOT be a problem. Link: https://www.essexparts.com/cp8350-leading-left-anodized |
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03-30-2021, 02:58 PM | #55 |
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So I had a chance to run them at Laguna with hawk DTC70 pads. I turned out that the pads were not for the wide annulus friction disc, but I realized this just a day before the track day so I went with what I had. The brakes were just amazing when coupled with NT01 tires. The braking was so much more violent and I didn't have to mash on the pedal to get the maximum braking pressure. Also, the pedal feel was always consistent. Finally, I noted was that there was far less heat coming from the rotors when I came into the pits. I assume the removal of the dust shields and much better rotor cooling did the trick.
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03-30-2021, 08:36 PM | #56 | |
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03-30-2021, 11:19 PM | #57 |
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That may work well. Taking off the caliper is much easier because you don't have to undo the big bolts on the bracket. You can just remove the smaller bolts that hold the actual caliper. The other option is to just get dusty pads and not wash the wheels. The dust will cover things up nicely...
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04-08-2021, 11:27 PM | #59 | |
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When did you order your setup? I placed my order the last week of 2020, and am starting to consider canceling if Adam at buybrakes or Tyler at Stoptech dont give me something definitive soon. |
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04-09-2021, 08:54 PM | #60 | ||
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04-10-2021, 11:58 PM | #62 |
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Did you have issues with pistons coming out because of knock back springs? I was swapping out the track pads for street pads today. It was just a nightmare where I couldn't slide in the street pad because the pistons on the inward side would just come out by themselves. There must be some trick to this
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04-11-2021, 12:01 AM | #63 |
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I swapped out the race Hawk pads for the street ones today. The race pads burned all of the black paint away on the backing. The front pad is probably good enough for two
more outings at most at LS... |
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04-11-2021, 12:05 AM | #64 |
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Just for comparison, these are the two Hawk pads for the caliper. The one on the left is the street pad, and the one on the right is the race pad. I would like to find out who makes a wide annulus disc race pad as it should last longer because it will have more material.
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04-11-2021, 07:05 AM | #65 | |
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04-11-2021, 08:52 AM | #66 | |
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