F80 M3 S55 Single Turbo Build

[chetrickerman]

     Featured on BIMMERPOST.com

Hello, I thought I would document my single turbo build since its nearly complete.

How the car looked when it was delivered



I have previously ran Pure Stage 2 HF, Pure Stage 2+, Full Race turbos, and Kratos. Both sets of the Pure turbos were great, the Full Race turbos spooled slightly faster than the PS2 while flowing pretty much the same amount. The Kratos turbos spooled well for the amount of air that they flow and were a ton of fun, but after an issue with one of the Kratos turbos, I decided to go all in and make my own single turbo kit.

First, I contacted JP Workz for the exhaust manifold. I told him what turbo I was planning on using and he said that his manifold would work perfect. About 3 weeks later I had the manifold, and I could start fabrication. I bolted it up to my spare engine with the turbo, and came to the conclusion that I have to extensively modify the manifold to get the turbo to fit with my plans.


After purchasing a vertical/horizontal bandsaw, I could make the precise cuts I need in order to alter the exhaust manifold. Then I picked up a few different shapes of 304SS Weld els and got to cutting. I had to cut off the O2 bungs because JP didnt use the heat sink style, and then I cut off the merge collector. It cut off the old elbows, sanded the flange flat, and beveled the edges to have a nice fresh surface to weld to.

Then I used my spare engine along with some steel spacers to get the turbo into the proper position with space between the engine block and turbo for the wastegate.



After getting the turbo in the right location, and cutting/grinding the weld els to get a perfect fit up, I cleaned the parts with acetone, closed up all of the holes, back-purged the manifold and welded it up.


With that done, I could move on to the task of fabricating a mount out of aluminum to mount the OEM Electronic Wastegate actuator to. Having tuned several single turbo S55's, I wanted the DME to be able to control the boost. Utilizing the OEM electronic WG ensured that if the DME wants to target 2 psi, 10 psi, or 30 psi, it can.


Once the bracket was finished, I started on the actuator arm to move the wastegate flapper. I chose to go with a EFR 9280 Internal wastegate. I chose this turbo for 2 reasons, first being I needed a turbo that used an internal wastegate that way it will work with the OEM electronic wastegate actuator. The second reason is because I ran a EFR 9174 on my Evo, and it was a phenomenal turbo, with the 9280 being the same physical size, but with higher flowing compressor/turbine wheels.
I used the OEM wastegate linkage, and welded some all-thread to it so that I can adjust the length because each wastegate has to be calibrated in the DME using ISTA.


Next was the downpipe. I used 3.5" 304 stainless tube, and I tried to keep the bends as minimal as possible for maximum flow. Once that was done enough, I took the hot parts in to get a high temperature ceramic coating to prohibit corrosion from forming, and it also helps keep heat inside of the parts, which is always a good thing.




While those parts were at coating, I started on the oil and coolant fittings. I was able to utilize the OEM parts and just modify them to work with the single turbo. You always want to run a filter between the engine and turbo that way if your motor fails, it doesn't take out your turbo too. Luckily, turbosmart has a very compact filter that cleans down to 10 micron. The oil return line was pretty simple. I used a -10 AN hose which actually fit perfect onto the OEM oil return fitting, and I secured the hose with a Oetiker clamp which should ensure a leak free connection.



Once I finished the oil fittings, the hot parts were done with ceramic coating, so I assembled the hot parts to the car and got started with the intercooler and charge pipe fabrication. I used 2.5" aluminum tubing, with Vibrant HD Clamps for the coupling to ensure a leak free connection since they are good for at least 500 psi of pressure. I wanted to use the OEM intercooler for two reasons: the first being that the tune inside the DME has the pressure drop across the OEM intercooler mapped and I didn't want to mess with that. The Second being I run methanol injection, so the OEM intercooler with methanol will cool the charge very well, most of the time it reduces the charge temps to below ambient temperature.


With the charge pipe oriented, I started on the intercooler plenum. Air likes to follow the path of least resistance, which in this case is straight through the intercooler, so I wanted to get even air flow across the core for optimum cooling. To ensure that, I added internal air guides to split the air up. Once I was able to get the shape I wanted with cardboard, I traced each side onto aluminum sheet and cut them out. Doing it this way made the fit up tight and easy to weld.




Im the type of person that looks at all the details, and boost leaks are the devil, so as soon as I finished welding the charge components, I pressure tested them to 50 psig, for 3 hours. I left them pressurized for this amount of time so I can know for certain the pressure isn't leaking into the coolant part of the intercooler.


Since the charge pipe runs right next to the exhaust manifold and aluminum loves to absorb heat, I wrapped the pipe with DEI Reflect-A-GOLD tape to help reduce heat soak as much as possible. I also painted the Intercooler with truck bed coating for a more aesthetic appearance.



The S55 engine isn't the best looking engine, so in an effort to make it look better, I did a small "wire tuck" to clean up the front of the engine, while also removing some of the wires I didn't need anymore. I like my engines clean, and as simple looking as possible.


With all that done, I could focus on the extremely important step of calibrating the wastegate. It took several tries to get the arm in the proper range of movement, but once I did, the wastegate calibrated with no errors.

Once calibration was successful, I was able to start final assembly. I used silicone hose for the coolant lines to/from the turbo since they hold up to high heat better. I also slid a DEI gold sheath over the oil return line since it runs close to the turbine housing.




To ensure that the turbine housing and manifold don't separate under any conditions, I used Inconel 625 studs, with Stage 8 locking nuts which as you can see prohibit the nut from loosening unless I want it to. I also used an Inconel T4 Twinscroll gasket for guaranteed sealing even under extreme conditions.


After I installed everything and double checked everything was buttoned up properly, I removed the spark plugs and primed the engine to get oil flowing through everywhere including the turbo prior to starting. The first start up was successful, with no leaks or issues.


Video of how the car sounds after first start up

***Thread not finished***

[chetrickerman]

Well after 3 weeks of troubleshooting valvetronic issues and replacing the entire system, the issue turned out to be the cable running from the DME to the valvetronic motor was bad, lol.

25 psi of boost, E70 fuel, OEM S55 injectors, dont mind the camera noise.

Next is installing EU5 injectors and seeing how much more boost can be ran.

[chetrickerman]

Dyno day today! The car and turbo performed well, running 33.5 psig of boost, I was able to dial in the ignition timing to MBT. Final numbers were 838 whp and 739 wtq with the Dynojet SAE correction factor.

Update 3/26/22
After fighting valvetronic issues all last year, and replacing every possible part to try and fix the issue, I pulled the head and sent it to Billiam for a rebuild. While the car is apart, I decided to clean up the inside of the exhaust manifold and ported it to remove edges and smooth offset piping to improve flow.
Next is welding a bung to the compressor cover for the volute methanol injection



7-30-22
I received the head back from Billiam. It turns out Headgames did a poor job with the valve job and several valves were physically stuck in the head. Custom oversize valve guides were needed to fix the head. After installing the new head and as of 8-1-23, I have yet to have another valvetronic issue, Billiam did a superb job.

11-1-22
I built a new downpipe. I was able to use the long concentric expansion to maintain attached laminar flow uniformity better to further improve turbine efficiency. The first almost 3 feet of the downpipe is 4 inch stainless tube, which then necks down smoothly to 3.5 inch to accelerate the exhaust flow and reduce pressure drop. I then went through the rest of the downpipe and exhaust and cut out the tight radius bends and replaced them with smoother more gradual bends to help keep exhaust velocity as high as possible.

You can see in the side by sides how much smoother the new downpipe is. I took it for a test drive after finishing it and could immediately tell a difference in spool up and response. I will update later how much faster the turbo gets to full boost compared to the old 3.5 inch downpipe. If you have a single turbo setup, definitely get the 4 inch downpipe if there is the option!

I also added an external wideband so I can see the true AFR average of both banks so I can be absolutely certain the AFR is within a safe range. I chose to use the Zeitronix ZT-3 which has the CAN Bus option so I will be able to see the ZT-3 AFR in my datalogs through the ECU.





12-19-22
I messaged Wagner asking if they would sell me an unfinished S55 intercooler and I would fabricate the plenum myself, but they offered to make the complete unit for me, with a billet plenum, I couldn't refuse. Shortly after, I received the first ever Wagner S55 single turbo intercooler. It is an excellent unit, very well made, and I can see a significant difference in my datalogs.


8-12-23
This happened today. I think the Bugatti Veyron brushless fuel pump may have finally died. 10 years on two different cars while running E85 the whole time is pretty good. This prompted an overhaul of the current fuel system, and with the approval of the wife, the fuel system is getting upgraded.

Already ordered a replacement pump, Injector Dynamics F750 fuel filter, -8 an PTFE hose and necessary fittings. The -8 hose will go from the pump outlet to under the car, to the filter and pressure sensor, then will split near the firewall into dual -6 hoses that feed directly into the XDI HPFP's which should allow maximum flow and minimal pressure drop from pump outlet to HPFP inlet, while filtering the fuel extremely well.

I am also testing some new injectors from XDI that flow enough for over 1000 whp on E85 from DI only, if the HPFP's can keep up



9-20-23
It turns out the culprit was low quality heat shrink, and the fact that ethanol eats solder over time. When I originally installed this fuel pump, I used standard heat shrink, and soldered the wires together. Over the course of 5 years of running only E85, ethanol was able to get into the joint and eventually it got to the point where the wires were just sitting on top of each other. The EKP detected a voltage plausibility error with the pump, and shut the car off, luckily the car was in my garage warming up.


I cut off the OEM filter from the hanger top hat, used a 4 wire bulkhead fitting from STM, along with their -8 to 5/16" barb bulkhead fitting to pass through the hanger top hat. Inside the tank, I used 5/16" nylon corrugated hose, with stainless fuel injection clamps, with an anodized aluminum Y-fitting to split between the feed to the top hat and the fuel pressure regulator (which cracks open at 90 psi).


I then used 3/8 SAE30R10 rubber hose to attach a Radium Venturi Jet pump to help draw fuel from the other larger side to help avoid fuel surge. Another measure I used to help avoid fuel surge was adding a Holley Hydramat as the fuel pump inlet "filter". It does filter (15 micron) pretty well, but it has a unique ability through surface tension, is able to keep a steady fuel supply to the pump even if only one corner of the hydramat is submerged.
So far I have gone all the way down to less than 20 miles of estimated range and fuel pressure is steady. As you can see, the hydramat is pretty large and reaches pretty much all the way from the front to the rear of the tank, again, helping aid fuel pick up



To ensure this issue does not happen again, I used tin coated butt connectors, and crimped the connections, ensuring a solid and reliable voltage supply. I also used Raychem DR-25 heat shrink this time. I removed the fuel pump wires from the OEM connector, and crimped Deutsch DTP 4 pin connectors, which each pin can handle 25 amps.


This ID F750 fuel filter is extremely nice, really well made, and is of solid construction. I was also able to use the OEM low fuel pressure sensor with the sensor block. I then used a -8 to dual -6 Y-fitting to split between the two pumps. Here you can see the difference between the size of the OEM tubing and the new -6 fittings. I double checked that all fittings were tight, and fired it up. The fuel pressure is more stable than ever, and the car is driving smoother as a result.



5-25-24
Schrick cams installed! The car is running well so far with them, definitely have to adjust my fueling, but very excited to see how much of a difference these cams make. Unfortunately I have to wait until SPEC ships out the clutch I ordered since my OEM clutch is having issues.



6-6-24
Well I finally found the issue with my clutch, it looks like the dual mass flywheel failed, along with one of the plates of the pressure plate return spring.

But thanks to a great seller on here, I was able to find a clutch after over a month of searching and I installed it. I also installed the RevShift dual mount diff plate and front bushings for the rear diff since the driveshaft was disconnected from the transmission. Now the Rear diff should be secured extremely well, prohibiting any unwanted movement which should allow the rear to feel more planted. I also upgraded to a stainless steel throw out bearing pivot pin and changed all of the drivetrain fluids.

[aBMWfan]

Great work Chet, appreciate the hard work and the great tuning you’ve been doing for our builds

[jpy1980]

Excellent work sir! Excited to see what you have planned....ESP at altitude!

[CT92F80]

Awesome!

[F85MTuNED]

Great work,

I'll be tuning in to see what's next.

[Taylorsherk]

Awesome build Chet!!!

I ran a ChetRickerman tune on my EvoX. It’s great to see you still going at it.

[sarisadi1]

Thats dope

[M3nmotion18]

Man, Thanks for sharing your build! Such a great work!!

[chetrickerman]

1-9-25
FMIC incoming! I am using an 18x12x4.5 CSF bar and plate core. Yes it is heavy, but I will upgrade to a tube and fin core later.

I also removed all of the water to air setup and weighed it to compare to the air to air. With both heat exchangers and all tubing empty, its almost 40 pounds. I will fill the system and re-weigh it to find the operational weight.





1-18-25
Small update, I got the intercooler end tanks mocked up out of cardboard, there will be an internal air guide to direct air so the whole core is used. The charge pipes are just tacked for now while I verify fitment and get everything where I want it.

Next I will be tracing the cardboard shapes onto 0.090" thick aluminum. Then I will have to make a new coolant expansion tank since the OEM reservoir wont fit in its normal location anymore.




1-24-25
The intercooler and charge piping is all welded up. Next is mounting it to the car and pressure testing. In the third picture, you can see the air guide I welded inside that splits the airflow in half and guides it to the lower half of the core using a pretty smooth radius that way the whole core is used to cool the air.





2-4-25
With the new charge pipe routing, the OEM coolant expansion tank would not fit, so I had to make a new one. The total coolant volume in the S55 is 13.9 liters, and the expansion tank should be at least 10% of that volume, so I made a 1.55 liter tank out of 4.5 inch tubing. I used a Mishimoto 28 psi radiator cap, and made a sight glass so I can see the level of coolant. I pressure tested it to 50 psi to ensure leak free operation.

Once I finished that, I could move on to the extremely important step of leak testing. I assembled the charge system off the car, capped the throttle body with a 1/2" thick aluminum plate, and a boost leak tester welded to a vanjen flange. I pressurized the system to 50 psi, found a couple small leaks, welded them closed, and washed all the soap off the tubing/intercooler.

Next step is final assembly and putting the rest of the car back together

[Wanted_M]

Nice job and looks great, thanks for sharing. In for dyno #'s
Are you making a kit?

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

Nice job and looks great, thanks for sharing. In for dyno #'s
Are you making a kit?

Thank you!

Due to the very tight fitment, its not something Im going to put into production.

[coxxoc]

Awesome fabrication work. With that turbo's flow potential, this should be a fun build with a great soundtrack.

[joooiiiiii]

This is dope. Reminds me of the Honda-tech forum days when guys were putting up their full DIY builds and that's all we had to go off of.

[chetrickerman]

Thank you. Just starting tuning now. I had to add the turbosmart BOV to alleviate surge.

[Zara]

Amazing work, it sounds so beautiful

[SYT_Shadow]

That's a lot of fabrication, really impressive work!

Do you expect better response out of the larger single turbo than the OEMs? Or is your point of comparison aftermarket larger turbos?

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

That's a lot of fabrication, really impressive work!

Do you expect better response out of the larger single turbo than the OEMs? Or is your point of comparison aftermarket larger turbos?

Thank you!

I wasn't expecting better response than OEM, but it is close to the same response as the Kratos.

[Bluer2]

what kind of issue did you have with one of the kratos turbos?

[cfm56d7b]

Nice! This thread can be easily featured as an engineering class at Caltech.

[ttrank]

Nice!! Great work so far.