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      04-11-2018, 11:13 AM   #1
Tommy L Garage
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How-to: Pressure Bleed your Brakes

I did this yesterday and made a quick clip. Hoping some of you will find this helpful.

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      04-11-2018, 11:40 AM   #2
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It anyone already has a power bleeder but doesn't have the correct cap, it is Motive 1100

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc...a_aw_oh_bia_dp
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      04-11-2018, 12:20 PM   #3
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Correct - all the items are linked in the video description.
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      04-12-2018, 09:52 AM   #4
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Great video! Thanks for posting.
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      02-14-2020, 11:12 PM   #5
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Hi Tommy,
Just to clarify, if I was bleeding a RHD car I would start with left rear, RR, LF and RF.??

My booster and brake reservoir is on the Right hand side.

Danny
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      02-15-2020, 04:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyz_M4 View Post
Hi Tommy,
Just to clarify, if I was bleeding a RHD car I would start with left rear, RR, LF and RF.??

My booster and brake reservoir is on the Right hand side.

Danny
You always measure from the booster
When you say on the right hand side, you mean you pop the hood and it's on the right?
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      02-15-2020, 04:08 PM   #7
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Booster and reservoir is same side as steering wheel of a RHD car. Opp side to you boys in the US.

I.e. pop the hood and it's on the Left side ... confusing yes...

Sooo?? I'd be doing opposite rear first?
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      02-19-2020, 02:20 PM   #8
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You're videos are awesome. I'm a subscriber to your channel and I always use you channel as a reference when ever I need help with my car or other people's car. Thanks again for this video.
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      02-19-2020, 07:54 PM   #9
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The brake fluid lines are a common line to the ABS system block. After that they are individual runs. The old adage about farthest first is no longer a requirement. The first one will clear the reservoir to ABS line in the process.
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      05-23-2022, 11:49 AM   #10
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I'm considering doing this myself and I wanted to ask a few follow up questions:

1. In other videos I've seen on this procedure, people pump the brakes lightly as each corner drains in order to keep a firm pedal. Any benefit to doing this or is it fine to just do it at the end as TLG does in the video?
2. I've heard that sometimes there can be air trapped in the ABS system that would get released upon ABS activation and could lead to a soft pedal. Do any of you have any post-bleed procedure to address this or is this even something to be concerned about?
3. As people have learned to do this procedure, are there any tips, tricks or pitfalls to look out for as you went out to do this the first time?

Also thanks to @Tommy L Garage for the helpful DIY guide - watching your videos has given me the confidence to start wrenching on my car (already did camber plates and oil using your other videos)!
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      05-24-2022, 08:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotedecourse View Post
I'm considering doing this myself and I wanted to ask a few follow up questions:

1. In other videos I've seen on this procedure, people pump the brakes lightly as each corner drains in order to keep a firm pedal. Any benefit to doing this or is it fine to just do it at the end as TLG does in the video?
2. I've heard that sometimes there can be air trapped in the ABS system that would get released upon ABS activation and could lead to a soft pedal. Do any of you have any post-bleed procedure to address this or is this even something to be concerned about?
3. As people have learned to do this procedure, are there any tips, tricks or pitfalls to look out for as you went out to do this the first time?

Also thanks to @Tommy L Garage for the helpful DIY guide - watching your videos has given me the confidence to start wrenching on my car (already did camber plates and oil using your other videos)!
1. Some people feel strongly about pumping the pedal in addition to the pressure bleed. I do it, though hard to know if this is truly required. I have some concern with the possibility that the return stroke might induce a transient negative pressure change that could pull air back in through the bleeder, but in theory if the system is pressurized sufficiently that shouldn't happen (unless the negative pressure generated by return stroke exceeds the set bleeder pressure, which is probably unlikely). But see point #3...

2. A full proper bleed would involving bleeding the ABS, but this requires a laptop with ISTA connected to the car. I would only do this if a regular bleed still results in a soft pedal and there's no other explanation.

3. Biggest tip: KEEP THE BOTTOM OF THE BLEEDER BOTTLE AT A POINT ABOVE THE BLEED SCREW, and ideally keep the portion of the bleeder hose inside the bottle submerged under bled fluid. I'm not sure of the exact physics, but if you put the bottle low on the ground, I think the surface tension associated with the column of bled fluid in the hose can act as a sink/suction effect, and actually pull air down past the threads of the open bleed screw and back out the bleeder hose. This will make you think that you are getting air into your lines somewhere else and drive you towards insanity trying to get it to disappear.
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