GetBMWParts
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   BMW M3 and BMW M4 Forum > BMW F80 M3 / F82 M4 Technical Topics > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      02-17-2020, 08:58 AM   #23
bimmerboyE92
Captain
United_States
412
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: BMW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
No worries. So I finally got it out. I let it soak with PB blaster overnight but I don’t think that did anything. I ended up using a 12mm bolt (e36 subframe) with a rounded tip as a punch. The driver side was in really tight. I had to take damn near full swings with a BFH on my back with a brand new AP Racing rotor inches away. And it wasn’t one whack and it popped out. I had to drive it out of that hole with 4-5 full swings before i could ease up. I ended up basically punching in the torx end on the balljoint. The nut still went on but I’m opting to replace in case I ever need to put a torx in there.

Passenger side came out with about 1/4 the force but definitely needed more than a tap.

Thought about heat, but too many rubber bits within close proximity.

In the end, I’m replacing both torsion arms with new. Passenger side will be for sale as the car has 13k miles on it. For those that try this, loosen the ball joint nut and see if yours will tap out, then put it back together. If not, just buy Turner or Syncro Design pre-installed mono balls and plan on destroying your ball joint. It basically cost the same as what I gonna end up doing without the frustration of trying to get it off without damage. However, I was mainly impressed with Dinan’s mono ball design and that’s why I went with them.

I pressed out one bushing for practice and that was the easiest part of the entire project. The Dinan monoball I have basically slid right in as it needs bearing retainer compound and a giant nut to hold on.
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 0
      02-17-2020, 02:15 PM   #24
Spun Crankhub
Major General
964
Rep
5,033
Posts

Drives: 15 F82 *SOLD*
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Jose, CA

iTrader: (63)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92 View Post
The Dinan monoball I have basically slid right in as it needs bearing retainer compound and a giant nut to hold on.
I think the Turner version is similar with a retaining clip to hold it in. Does that mean you did not even need a press, just slid in by hand?
Appreciate 0
      02-17-2020, 06:35 PM   #25
bimmerboyE92
Captain
United_States
412
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: BMW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoChris View Post
I think the Turner version is similar with a retaining clip to hold it in. Does that mean you did not even need a press, just slid in by hand?
I haven’t finalized because this was on the practice arm. But yes, the Dinan just slid in, no press, no real effort other than a slight gentle twist because it’s very precise. The Dinan instructions say to use loctite bearing retainer. Then they include a special “spanner” wrench with a 1/2” ratchet hole to torque to 110ft-lb. that’s why I was most impressed with the Dinan. It doesn’t rely on a press fit. It has a mechanical nut.

Last edited by bimmerboyE92; 02-23-2020 at 07:52 AM..
Appreciate 1
      02-20-2020, 06:19 PM   #26
bimmerboyE92
Captain
United_States
412
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: BMW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Ok, all done. 2 brand new BMW tension struts and Dinan Monoballs. The green Loctite 609 was key, otherwise, I would not have been able to torque the nut to 110ft-lbs. I do think that BMW added loctite to the steering knuckle causing such difficulty to remove. Even after running a brush through it with soap there was a residue that looked like dried loctite. Maybe they had a few that were on the larger side of tolerance? I work in the auto industry so I’ve seen all kinds of things to make a car “good” to ship.

Thanks to TacoChris for making this thread. This should be a sticky DIY.

When removing the rubber bushing, use some WD40 to lube the bushing and the threaded rod while using an impact. The bushings come out and look new. The first one I did got a bit mangled because I didn’t use lube.

Made my own tool with 7/16 all thread, unistrut washers, unistrut, and a 3” pipe nipple. Everything is available at your local plumbing supply house.
Attached Images
      
Appreciate 1
      02-21-2020, 02:51 PM   #27
Spun Crankhub
Major General
964
Rep
5,033
Posts

Drives: 15 F82 *SOLD*
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Jose, CA

iTrader: (63)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92 View Post
Ok, all done. 2 brand new BMW tension struts and Dinan Monoballs. The green Loctite 609 was key, otherwise, I would not have been able to torque the nut to 110ft-lbs. I do think that BMW added loctite to the steering knuckle causing such difficulty to remove. Even after running a brush through it with soap there was a residue that looked like dried loctite. Maybe they had a few that were on the larger side of tolerance? I work in the auto industry so I’ve seen all kinds of things to make a car “good” to ship.

Thanks to TacoChris for making this thread. This should be a sticky DIY.

When removing the rubber bushing, use some WD40 to lube the bushing and the threaded rod while using an impact. The bushings come out and look new. The first one I did got a bit mangled because I didn’t use lube.

Made my own tool with 7/16 all thread, unistrut washers, unistrut, and a 3” pipe nipple. Everything is available at your local plumbing supply house.
Wow, great job. Those new arms look so nice and clean!
Appreciate 0
      02-23-2020, 07:30 AM   #28
bimmerboyE92
Captain
United_States
412
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: BMW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
TacoChris, how confident are you with regarding the torque specs. Where did you get them? Just curious as I’m leaning toward making them tighter. I’ve read 100Nm (74ft-lbs) + 90deg on the long 18mm bolt and 175Nm (129ft-lbs) on the ball joint nut. This is from this thread on the F30 side.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=970605
Appreciate 0
      02-23-2020, 06:56 PM   #29
bimmerboyE92
Captain
United_States
412
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: BMW
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
UPDATE: I torqued the 18mm bolt to 125ft lbs which is 25ft lbs more than what is recommended for a M12 grade 10.9 bolt. It rotated 45deg more than where it was at 84ft lbs. However, it took over 100ft lbs to start moving. The 21mm nut got 129ft lbs matching the F30 install. I match marked everything and if there is ever any movement I’ll buy new bolts and torque 74ft lbs + 90deg.
Appreciate 0
      02-24-2020, 01:29 PM   #30
Spun Crankhub
Major General
964
Rep
5,033
Posts

Drives: 15 F82 *SOLD*
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Jose, CA

iTrader: (63)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92 View Post
TacoChris, how confident are you with regarding the torque specs. Where did you get them? Just curious as I’m leaning toward making them tighter. I’ve read 100Nm (74ft-lbs) + 90deg on the long 18mm bolt and 175Nm (129ft-lbs) on the ball joint nut. This is from this thread on the F30 side.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=970605
Every now and again you gotta go off the reservation, and torque something beyond a stated value. When I had my E9X M3 I found that if tightening oil pan fill bolt to the recommended spec I would have a leak, but by tightening 1/4 turn more there would be no leak.
Appreciate 0
      02-15-2023, 07:22 PM   #31
Theruleslawyer
Captain
Theruleslawyer's Avatar
United_States
997
Rep
819
Posts

Drives: 2019 m4
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Chicagoland

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spun Crankhub View Post
Tools needed for this job are:
Hydraulic press or my preference of a bushing tool from FCP Euro
Which bushing tool? All the ones I see cost hundreds of $$$.
Appreciate 0
      02-17-2023, 02:39 AM   #32
M 4 FUN
Captain
593
Rep
634
Posts

Drives: BMW 320 Si, BMW M4 comp. BMW M
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Sweden

iTrader: (0)

Is this a solid uniball bushing? If so, why not use an eccentric one to be able to adjust caster?
Appreciate 0
      02-21-2023, 05:02 PM   #33
Theruleslawyer
Captain
Theruleslawyer's Avatar
United_States
997
Rep
819
Posts

Drives: 2019 m4
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Chicagoland

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by M 4 FUN View Post
Is this a solid uniball bushing? If so, why not use an eccentric one to be able to adjust caster?
Those exist too. I think Farkle has them

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1838120
Appreciate 0
      02-22-2023, 01:51 AM   #34
M 4 FUN
Captain
593
Rep
634
Posts

Drives: BMW 320 Si, BMW M4 comp. BMW M
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Sweden

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer View Post
Those exist too. I think Farkle has them

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1838120
Yes, i have SPL ones.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:50 AM.




f80post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST