Changing brake fluid and hoses.

[OzcarM3]

I plan on changing brake fluid and hoses and will therefore be introducing air into the system.
I was going to remove 1 hose at a time and add fluid into the master cylinder until the new fluid starts leaking out of the new hose. I was then going to reattach the hose to the calliper and bleed. Then repeat the process for the other 3 wheels.
Is there anything else I need to do as part of the bleeding process?
Is there any thing that needs to be done to the ABS system such as additional bleeding and will any codes need resetting?
There’s a sticky thread on replacing pads and fluid however it doesn’t include replacing hoses and therefore not introducing air.

[SD ///M4]

Invest in a pressure bleeder.

[mindspin311]

Don't waste your time "bleeding" the new lines. Just swap them and run a ton of fluid through the system using a power bleeder.

[BhamDavid]

Originally Posted by mindspin311

Don't waste your time "bleeding" the new lines. Just swap them and run a ton of fluid through the system using a power bleeder.

This! Start with RR, then LR, RF, LF. (Longest lines first). Tap the caliper with rubber hammer as you bleed to dislodge any air bubbles. DONT get any fluid on the paint! Very easy to do.

I installed stainless steel braided lines after I had my calipers powder coated.

[MrSmartyPants]

Originally Posted by BhamDavid

This! Start with RR, then LR, RF, LF. (Longest lines first). Tap the caliper with rubber hammer as you bleed to dislodge any air bubbles. DONT get any fluid on the paint! Very easy to do.

I installed stainless steel braided lines after I had my calipers powder coated.

Brake fluid can typically be cleaned with IPA (isopropyl alcohol). I've never accomplished a bleed or line swap without needing to clean up.

[FaRKle!]

You can prevent a mess if you press the brake pedal all the way down, and then use a device to keep it pressed down. When I changed my calipers/lines I used a 2x4 and then moved the driver's seat forward to keep the pedal pressed down. When I disconnected the brake lines nothing came out aside from a few drops. It's akin to putting a straw in a glass of water and then sealing/holding the top with your thumb (the liquid doesn't fall out when you take the straw out of the glass). This also prevents air from making its way up the line.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by OzcarM3

I plan on changing brake fluid and hoses and will therefore be introducing air into the system.
I was going to remove 1 hose at a time and add fluid into the master cylinder until the new fluid starts leaking out of the new hose. I was then going to reattach the hose to the calliper and bleed. Then repeat the process for the other 3 wheels.
Is there anything else I need to do as part of the bleeding process?
Is there any thing that needs to be done to the ABS system such as additional bleeding and will any codes need resetting?
There’s a sticky thread on replacing pads and fluid however it doesn’t include replacing hoses and therefore not introducing air.

Since gravity will be pulling the brake fluid through the hose fitting you will not introduce any air above the point. You will only need to worry about getting the air out of the new hose and the caliper. If you don't want to invest in a brake pressure bleeder, you can also rely on gravity to bleed your brakes. Just crack the bleeder screw one at a time and keep your eye on the master cylinder fluid level.

[BhamDavid]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Since gravity will be pulling the brake fluid through the hose fitting you will not introduce any air above the point. You will only need to worry about getting the air out of the new hose and the caliper. If you don't want to invest in a brake pressure bleeder, you can also rely on gravity to bleed your brakes. Just crack the bleeder screw one at a time and keep your eye on the master cylinder fluid level.

You will NEVER get sufficient velocity using gravity to loosen air bubbles clinging to the lines and especially inside the caliper piston area.

Same issue with using a board to force the brake petal down. You’ll get an initial flow but not sufficiently long enough to do much good.

Either have a friend pump the brakes or buy a pressure bleeder.

[Fast4d]

my wife or kid has been pumping brake pedals for me since my pressure bleeder rotted away 10 years ago.

plus I alway got a fimer pedal with manual pumping.

[MrSmartyPants]

Originally Posted by Fast4d

my wife or kid has been pumping brake pedals for me since my pressure bleeder rotted away 10 years ago.

plus I alway got a fimer pedal with manual pumping.

This. Never got a great result from a pressure bleeder. Pedal never feels great. Sold mine.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by BhamDavid

You will NEVER get sufficient velocity using gravity to loosen air bubbles clinging to the lines and especially inside the caliper piston area.

Same issue with using a board to force the brake petal down. You’ll get an initial flow but not sufficiently long enough to do much good.

Either have a friend pump the brakes or buy a pressure bleeder.

That may be true but we never had any issues with gravity bleeding after upgrading to SS lines or a Big Brake Kt when a second person is not available or working on a Japanese or Dometic vehicle which we don't have the correct master cylinder adaptor for. Light taps with a rubber-faced hammer help a lot.