CS Suspension Coding

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Haha

I initially ordered one from TMS for $250-something, but they were back-ordered. Googled the part number and found several for sale on ebay. Cancelled and got the hundred-dollar used one instead. Chess not checkers.

I was a little skeptical at first, but I have received mine and it is the correct bar.

Excellent keep me apprised! I read a couple threads about the exact combo I have. Sticker tires, KW HAS, CS coding and only the rear bar upgraded and many said it was the move. I am excited to have it installed, not excited to drop the subframe to get it done. Oh well! $100 and some elbow grease should pay off.

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow

Excellent keep me apprised! I read a couple threads about the exact combo I have. Sticker tires, KW HAS, CS coding and only the rear bar upgraded and many said it was the move. I am excited to have it installed, not excited to drop the subframe to get it done. Oh well! $100 and some elbow grease should pay off.

Yeah, should be easy enough. Be careful to drop the subframe/diff straight and balance it well on the jack(s). You don't want to wrestle with that whole assembly if it slides off sideways.

[caacosta]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Haha

I initially ordered one from TMS for $250-something, but they were back-ordered. Googled the part number and found several for sale on ebay. Cancelled and got the hundred-dollar used one instead. Chess not checkers.

I was a little skeptical at first, but I have received mine and it is the correct bar.

To confirm, it's part number 33557853266 correct? I've been looking on eBay too but they don't reference GTS.

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Yeah, should be easy enough. Be careful to drop the subframe/diff straight and balance it well on the jack(s). You don't want to wrestle with that whole assembly if it slides off sideways.

Appreciate it. I am unfortunately somewhat experienced with it having done the plates on my track car (E46M) and doing mine and a buddies terminators, which are by the way the worst ever. My lord what a pitiful IRS design. From
What I’ve found you only need to really kind of half way remove it enough to give clearance for the hardware. Hoping that’s the case!

[tnt3k]

Originally Posted by caacosta

To confirm, it's part number 33557853266 correct? I've been looking on eBay too but they don't reference GTS.

Also curious if this is the right part number for the CS sway bar

[TheMaster1971NL]

Originally Posted by CaliF80rnia

Also curious if this is the right part number for the CS sway bar

it's the Competition Package Rear Sway Bar

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by caacosta

To confirm, it's part number 33557853266 correct? I've been looking on eBay too but they don't reference GTS.

Yes, that is the correct part number for the ZCP/CS/GTS rear sway bar.

33 55 7 853 266

The Competition Package (ZCP), the CS (Club Sport), and the M4 GTS all use the same rear sway bar.

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow

Appreciate it. I am unfortunately somewhat experienced with it having done the plates on my track car (E46M) and doing mine and a buddies terminators, which are by the way the worst ever. My lord what a pitiful IRS design. From
What I’ve found you only need to really kind of half way remove it enough to give clearance for the hardware. Hoping that’s the case!

Haha first IRS in a Mustang. I give them credit for trying. I had a '99 Cobra. Didn't handle for shit, but it was better than the solid-axle cars.

Yes, from what I've read you only need to lower the subframe ~6" to get the bar in and out. I'll be doing mine this weekend, so we'll see how it goes.

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Haha first IRS in a Mustang. I give them credit for trying. I had a '99 Cobra. Didn't handle for shit, but it was better than the solid-axle cars.

Yes, from what I've read you only need to lower the subframe ~6" to get the bar in and out. I'll be doing mine this weekend, so we'll see how it goes.

Brilliant thank you, I look forward to any updates you may have. I’m just waiting for mine to ship from the great state of Texas... seems the seller has been delayed but I have NO IDEA why

As for the Mustangs, still own a terminator and bullett, likely never let go of the roots but certainly don’t think of them like I do BMW.

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow

Brilliant thank you, I look forward to any updates you may have. I’m just waiting for mine to ship from the great state of Texas... seems the seller has been delayed but I have NO IDEA why

As for the Mustangs, still own a terminator and bullett, likely never let go of the roots but certainly don’t think of them like I do BMW.

Hard to argue with the power, though 👍🏼

Texas needs to man-up 😆

[Racer20]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Are you certain on this?
I am using the ZCP dampers and stock non-ZCP rear bar with CS coding, and I feel like the rear could use more roll stiffness.

Yes I'm certain. I tested both sets of dampers on a shock dyno (search for the post under my name back in 2018), and how the car drives subjectively aligns with that when you don't have the right rear bar.

If you don't have the right rear bar you'll be missing some roll stiffness with the CS coding.

Your perception of roll stiffness is all relative, so if your swift springs have a different front to rear stiffness ratio than stock, you'll perceive that as insufficient roll damping on the weaker end even if they are both stiffer than stock.

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by Racer20

Yes I'm certain. I tested both sets of dampers on a shock dyno (search for the post under my name back in 2018), and how the car drives subjectively aligns with that when you don't have the right rear bar.

If you don't have the right rear bar you'll be missing some roll stiffness with the CS coding.

Your perception of roll stiffness is all relative, so if your swift springs have a different front to rear stiffness ratio than stock, you'll perceive that as insufficient roll damping on the weaker end even if they are both stiffer than stock.

We talked via PM since I made this post, and I have since installed the ZCP/CS/GTS rear sway bar. HUGE difference. The car now turns-in properly and corners nice and flat, like an M3.
I highly recommend swapping to the ZCP bar if you are doing anything with the suspension on a non-ZCP car.

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

We talked via PM since I made this post, and I have since installed the ZCP/CS/GTS rear sway bar. HUGE difference. The car now turns-in properly and corners nice and flat, like an M3.
I highly recommend swapping to the ZCP bar if you are doing anything with the suspension on a non-ZCP car.

So you are telling me I should not continue to let it sit BEHIND the car in the garage?

How long did it take? Any more difficult than you can find a DYI on or fairly straight forward?

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow

So you are telling me I should not continue to let it sit BEHIND the car in the garage?

How long did it take? Any more difficult than you can find a DYI on or fairly straight forward?

Nope, do it.

It's an easy job. I think it took me two hours total. You can follow the DIY instructions here:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1429172

The only thing I would add is to remove both the driver and passenger side upper control arms to give yourself plenty of room to get the bar in and out. With those removed, I was able to take the bar out and put the new one in without messing with the bushing brackets. Just left them on the bars.
I'm not sure if the above DIY mentions leaving the rear subframe bolts threaded-in a few threads, but doing that is important. It will keep the subframe where it needs to be.

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Nope, do it.

It's an easy job. I think it took me two hours total. You can follow the DIY instructions here:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1429172

The only thing I would add is to remove both the driver and passenger side upper control arms to give yourself plenty of room to get the bar in and out. With those removed, I was able to take the bar out and put the new one in without messing with the bushing brackets. Just left them on the bars.
I'm not sure if the above DIY mentions leaving the rear subframe bolts threaded-in a few threads, but doing that is important. It will keep the subframe where it needs to be.

Thanks!

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow

Thanks!

No prob. Good luck. You'll be pleased with the results.

[TR930]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

No prob. Good luck. You'll be pleased with the results.

Quick question, I can get the the zcp dampers and rear sway bar parts. CS EDC Coding through THOR or Alex?

[fiveohwblow]

Originally Posted by TR930

Quick question, I can get the the zcp dampers and rear sway bar parts. CS EDC Coding through THOR or Alex?

I have installed the zcp rear sway bar, it’s not terrible but I didn’t enjoy it. That said, I’ve read many times that Alex’s coding is better than Thor where Thor is just convenient. I can’t wrap my head around what would differentiate coding as it’s not programming, but, the reviews are consistent. That said, why take bets that aren’t worth it, go Alex. I did, he’s great to work with as in fast and efficient.

[S2000_Europe]

Originally Posted by TR930

Quick question, I can get the the zcp dampers and rear sway bar parts. CS EDC Coding through THOR or Alex?

Go with Alex, in 40 min coded, tuned my ZCP and updated the iDrive to 2018 version, plus you can ask him directly as many questions you want something that Thor doesn't do

[Reddevils7]

objectively, what are the differences between base and zcp rear sway bar? what's the thickness difference and weight?

[Nativetexan]

I am looking to make my stock '18 ZCP a bit more comfortable for DDing.

Been thinking about switching from 666m's to 513m's.

Now I'm wondering if doing the CS coding could a bit more comfort…

If the CS coding os even more comfortable when in Comfort mode from stock, then I'd imagine I'd be okay with actually using Sport Plus…Personally I rarely ever drive outside Comfort on the suspension, sometimes in Sport.

Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by Nativetexan

I am looking to make my stock '18 ZCP a bit more comfortable for DDing.

Been thinking about switching from 666m's to 513m's.

Now I'm wondering if doing the CS coding could a bit more comfort…

If the CS coding os even more comfortable when in Comfort mode from stock, then I'd imagine I'd be okay with actually using Sport Plus…Personally I rarely ever drive outside Comfort on the suspension, sometimes in Sport.

Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I think the CS coding is less harsh than ZCP coding because rebound is greatly improved. Try it out and see if it helps.