BMW M Performance Suspension (HAS height adjustable sleeve over kit)

[knightarmor]

Originally Posted by JStang

Taking my car in tomorrow for install. I did some measuring to see where it currently sits and this is what I came up with. Remember, this is an M3 CS so I am not sure if the ride height is the same as other F80 M3’s or not. I measured using the bottom of the wheel to fender method.

Front Left - 25 1/4” (641 mm)

Front Right - 25 1/8” (638 mm)

Rear Left - 24 3/8 (619 mm)

Rear Right - 24 1/4” (615 mm)

Per the instructions and BMW recommended height, the front (19” wheel) will be lowered to 614 mm (roughly 1” drop) and the rear is strange. According to their recommendation for a 20” rear wheel, they recommend the rear to be at 626 mm which is actually higher than it currently sits. This seems odd to me?

Instructions also mention that measurements should be taken by adding 75kg on each front seat which will change things a bit.

I don't think BMW ever intended the MPHAS to be on a 19/20 staggered setup. I believe they say it's not intended for CS. I would not raise the rear, if anything I'd leave it at the same height you currently have or lower it a few mm.

[JStang]

Originally Posted by knightarmor

I don't think BMW ever intended the MPHAS to be on a 19/20 staggered setup. I believe they say it's not intended for CS. I would not raise the rear, if anything I'd leave it at the same height you currently have or lower it a few mm.

Whether it is a 19 or 20 inch wheel is just a reference point for measuring. Good advice about keeping the rear height. I think the rears are perfect as is.

[JStang]

I just picked up the car and I think it looks great. I may adjust it slightly lower but I wasn't looking for a slammed ride. I haven't measured yet but I will this evening once I get it on level ground in my garage.

I am going to give it a week or two to settle before possibly adjusting and taking it in for alignment. My installer, who is primarily a Porsche guy, charged $900 which I thought was very fair. I will probably add some spacers and call it a day.

[AlexN]

I have an M3 CS as well with the MP HAS.
I used 12F/10R spacers and also installed G80 star spec tires (275/35/19 front) with no rubbing

[rapindrive]

Hello, this is my setup.

Front all the way down except one twist. Behind 2 turns of the screw, at the bottom as well.

The white rubber that goes above the suspension was not changed at the rear, is it necessary to change it? I see him very high from behind.



These are the tires that I need to put on the rear, the reference is the correct rear one, right? are the 4 tires the same?

thanks

[rapindrive]

Originally Posted by Tommy L Garage

Just did it. 45 for both sides. Not bad!
Also lowered the front a bit. Took it for a drive - I like it!!

I removed the silicone rubbers that protect the dock. There is a problem with that? Thanks

[rapindrive]

How do you see this rear mounted? Thanks

[MadMax_]

Originally Posted by BMW Fx

a few impressions of the MP HAS.......slightly changed

Does this kit come with these rubber spacers (black and white) or is this your modification?

[Colinv6]

Just been sent these from my dealers. Will pick the car up tomorrow morning and can provide measurements if anyone requires them. Looks fantastic!

[MadMax_]

Beautiful M4 congratulations ... do you have any spacers on?

[Colinv6]

Originally Posted by MadMax_

Beautiful M4 congratulations ... do you have any spacers on?

Thank you mate. I didn’t have spacers but I put them in the boot when I dropped it off at BMW and asked if they would mind fitting before they did the alignment. They were happy to. So it’s all set up with the spacers on. 10mm front and rear. Didn’t want any wider than that

[MLL]

Hello, I just installed the MPHAS on my '18 non-ZCP F80 - it feels and rides great - big improvement! After letting it settle a bit for a couple of days, adjusted one of the fronts to bring it within 3-4mm lower than BMW recommended height. The front was easy. I also need to adjust (raise) one of the rears by 6-8mm, and have tried multiple times without success due to the top of the spring seat spinning. This has been a fairly common problem acknowledged throughout this thread (yes, I read all 116 pages of it). So I tried raising both rear wheels at the same time to relieve some spring tension, no luck. I tried holding the top of the spring seat where it is wider and meets the car's body with these channel locks (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WG5SU...roduct_details), but still no luck - very difficult to get a grip there as the spring seat top is thin and the channel locks need to go at an angle due to the strut being in the way. The channel locks scratched the spring seat top (even though I put electrical tape on the channel locks teeth), so I am reluctant to grab the spring seat below on the threaded section where it is a bit thinner, as I don't want to damage the thread. I have not tried gluing the spring seat top to the body with betalink as seems this cannot be reversed? Has anyone tried to pin the spring seat into the body by drilling a hole and putting in a screw? If yes, please share details (e.g. exact location to drill, drill bit and screw size, etc.) and photos, if possible. My only other option seems to be to go to the shop and have them undo the lower control arm bolt to release all spring tension, but I was hoping for an easier DIY method in my garage using only a floor jack. Thanks for your help.

[Weytens]

Originally Posted by MLL

Hello, I just installed the MPHAS on my '18 non-ZCP F80 - it feels and rides great - big improvement! After letting it settle a bit for a couple of days, adjusted one of the fronts to bring it within 3-4mm lower than BMW recommended height. The front was easy. I also need to adjust (raise) one of the rears by 6-8mm, and have tried multiple times without success due to the top of the spring seat spinning. This has been a fairly common problem acknowledged throughout this thread (yes, I read all 116 pages of it). So I tried raising both rear wheels at the same time to relieve some spring tension, no luck. I tried holding the top of the spring seat where it is wider and meets the car's body with these channel locks (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WG5SU...roduct_details), but still no luck - very difficult to get a grip there as the spring seat top is thin and the channel locks need to go at an angle due to the strut being in the way. The channel locks scratched the spring seat top (even though I put electrical tape on the channel locks teeth), so I am reluctant to grab the spring seat below on the threaded section where it is a bit thinner, as I don't want to damage the thread. I have not tried gluing the spring seat top to the body with betalink as seems this cannot be reversed? Has anyone tried to pin the spring seat into the body by drilling a hole and putting in a screw? If yes, please share details (e.g. exact location to drill, drill bit and screw size, etc.) and photos, if possible. My only other option seems to be to go to the shop and have them undo the lower control arm bolt to release all spring tension, but I was hoping for an easier DIY method in my garage using only a floor jack. Thanks for your help.

I installed mine a week ago and drilled 2 holes into the rear spring seat. When the car is jacked up, i can put a screwdriver in the hole to prevent it from spinning while adjusting.

Probably something you still can do when your car is jacked up.

[Alex_F80]

At #2533 the height looks great! Can you tell me if possible the measurement of the threads in front and rear? I will install the suspension in the next couple weeks. Thanks!

[Marvo93]

Hi,
what would be the downside of not replacing the oem bumpstops in the rear with the ones provided with the m performance HAS Kit? My car runs 3 years with the oem bump stops in the rear now… the ones in the front were switched out.

[MLL]

Originally Posted by Weytens

I installed mine a week ago and drilled 2 holes into the rear spring seat. When the car is jacked up, i can put a screwdriver in the hole to prevent it from spinning while adjusting.

Probably something you still can do when your car is jacked up.

Weytens, can you show me exactly where you drilled the holes - a pic would be greatly appreciated, and what size drill bit did you use? Also, don't you have to put some type of screw into the hole, to keep the spring seat from spinning and the hole in the body mis-aligning from the hole in the spring seat? Let me know if you can PM about this. Thanks!

[LXAS613]

Just following up on this well developed thread, hope folks are still keeping an eye on it!

I am a new 2018 Base owner with some ATROCIOUS lowering springs on my new vehicle (previous owner was trippin lol). Looking at all available options for improving my handling and this thread is selling me on the MP HAS. Something about sticking with M developed parts feels good...

Wondering though: Is anyone running this hardware with the CS EDC tuning on their Base trim? I have read numerous good things about what the CS EDC tuning can do, and am wondering if the MP HAS and EDC tune is the best combo ever for my use (daily driving, no track days, but spirited back road runs).

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by LXAS613

Just following up on this well developed thread, hope folks are still keeping an eye on it!

I am a new 2018 Base owner with some ATROCIOUS lowering springs on my new vehicle (previous owner was trippin lol). Looking at all available options for improving my handling and this thread is selling me on the MP HAS. Something about sticking with M developed parts feels good...

Wondering though: Is anyone running this hardware with the CS EDC tuning on their Base trim? I have read numerous good things about what the CS EDC tuning can do, and am wondering if the MP HAS and EDC tune is the best combo ever for my use (daily driving, no track days, but spirited back road runs).

CS EDC is a must even without the HAS.
I run the CS EDC on my Bilstein B16 DDC setup and it rides great.

[LXAS613]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

CS EDC is a must even without the HAS.
I run the CS EDC on my Bilstein B16 DDC setup and it rides great.

That's great to hear, love another testimonial on the EDC tuning. Definitely going to go that route then. Just curious, did you do it yourself? If not, how much did you pay for a coder to take care of it? There's a DIY post that I looked at, and as an IT professional, doesn't seem too daunting. On the flip side, if someone is out there doing it for cheap, I'd be inclined to go that route.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by LXAS613

That's great to hear, love another testimonial on the EDC tuning. Definitely going to go that route then. Just curious, did you do it yourself? If not, how much did you pay for a coder to take care of it? There's a DIY post that I looked at, and as an IT professional, doesn't seem too daunting. On the flip side, if someone is out there doing it for cheap, I'd be inclined to go that route.

kubax86 did it for me for pretty cheap.

[LXAS613]

Originally Posted by MLL

Weytens, can you show me exactly where you drilled the holes - a pic would be greatly appreciated, and what size drill bit did you use? Also, don't you have to put some type of screw into the hole, to keep the spring seat from spinning and the hole in the body mis-aligning from the hole in the spring seat? Let me know if you can PM about this. Thanks!

I would also be curious to see how/where this modification was made. I just ordered MP HAS yesterday and will be DIY installing ASAP. This little trick may come in handy down the road...

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by MLL

Weytens, can you show me exactly where you drilled the holes - a pic would be greatly appreciated, and what size drill bit did you use? Also, don't you have to put some type of screw into the hole, to keep the spring seat from spinning and the hole in the body mis-aligning from the hole in the spring seat? Let me know if you can PM about this. Thanks!

Originally Posted by LXAS613

I would also be curious to see how/where this modification was made. I just ordered MP HAS yesterday and will be DIY installing ASAP. This little trick may come in handy down the road...

I don’t see how Weytens’ method works. The black flange base diameter is the same as the blue threaded spring seat diameter so there’s no way you can, and I’m quoting Weytens, “put a screwdriver in the hole to prevent it from spinning”. There’s physically no room, or vertical alignment of two holes, that would allow you to put a screwdriver thru the two aligned holes. However, if you removed the blue threaded spring seat from the black spring adjuster, you could drill thru the flange of the black adjuster seat and into the car chassis. I’d drill two thru holes 180* apart. Then get two metal dowel pins/rods of the same diameter as the drill bit and ~1/2-3/4” long (from Lowes / HomeDepot / local hardware store) and tap them into the thru holes you drilled. Leave at least 1/8” of the pin sticking out above the surface of the black adjuster seat so you can grab it with a set of pliers in case it needs to be removed. Put the blue spring seat back onto the black adjuster base and you’re ready to install the springs.

Personally, I’d stick with dropping the control arm to remove the load on the spring and then adjust the ride height.