Looking for first M3, what do I need to know?

[TopJimmy]

If you know you want the stick shift that's a good thing. These cars in manual trans have you feeling very connected. I love it. Just know that DCT is faster if you plan to race...and 6MT is a friggin pain if you have lots of traffic.

Weak points, the crank hub bolt and the top intercooler leaking. If you won't be tuning and get some kind of CPO warranty then just don't worry about either of these. Chargepipes don't need replacing at stock power levels.

If you plan to tune then maybe find a car that already has improvements like Bootmod3 flash, the crank hub fix, TMIC, chargepipes, wheels and tires. A good deal can usually be negotiated with a guy stuck with a bunch of used parts...negotiate for a stock car, then add a little to include the swag.

I started stock, with CPO warranty, but quickly got the need for mo-powah! It might happen to you too.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by m3elmo

the other advice would be depending on your budget to get the options and specs you want. You may need to look at a few different cars to figure if competition package is worth it, executive package, do you want the newest 2018 or slightly updated 2016 etc. From that you can see there are reasons why some spec-ed used cars go for a premium over some other cars.

this 100%......and part of why im asking.....what do you guys think is necessary? competition package is probably a must. seems like the 18 is mostly cosmetic updates and Led lights? Thanks.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by icebiker

Re: charge pipes...in addition to these, the top mount intercooler to which the charge pipe connects is known to leak on several cars, which deposits coolant into the engine. People who have had this problem have reported not getting any error codes so they end up unwittingly driving it with no coolant. Check the intercooler coolant reservoir (way back in the engine bay, near the rear edge of the hood). If it doesn't have fluid, have this checked out. Plenty of threads on this.

If you're going 6MT, be aware that turning off auto rev matching on downshifts (in Sport + mode) can only be done on some cars. Based on threads in this forum, it appears that sometime post mid-2017 the software changed to auto rev match in all driving modes. Not sure if manually rev matching is important to you (it is to me!) but if it is, check to make sure no rev match in Sport +when you do your test drive.

Good luck in your search. The F8X is a hoot!!!

i really really appreciate this comment because it is a major concern of mine (being able to turn it off) whats the point of a manual if you arent double clutching/rev matching/etc yourself. DCT are awesome for track or just pure quickness, but for a daily ill always prefer a manual in a sports car.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

If you know you want the stick shift that's a good thing. These cars in manual trans have you feeling very connected. I love it. Just know that DCT is faster if you plan to race...and 6MT is a friggin pain if you have lots of traffic.

Weak points, the crank hub bolt and the top intercooler leaking. If you won't be tuning and get some kind of CPO warranty then just don't worry about either of these. Chargepipes don't need replacing at stock power levels.

If you plan to tune then maybe find a car that already has improvements like Bootmod3 flash, the crank hub fix, TMIC, chargepipes, wheels and tires. A good deal can usually be negotiated with a guy stuck with a bunch of used parts...negotiate for a stock car, then add a little to include the swag.

I started stock, with CPO warranty, but quickly got the need for mo-powah! It might happen to you too.

i plan to keep it "forever" so i dont doubt the itch will come for sure. mostly all depends on if i end up buying CPO or have factory warranty left that i wouldnt want to void.

[TopJimmy]

If you plan to drive in any mode with rev-match Off then consider the crank hub fix. It's real easy to forget a heel-toe in SP+ when the other modes always rev-match. One time this bit me good and I came skidding to a stop on a panic downshift into 2nd. You need to flash in order to change settings, which voids warranty. Save the warranty or CPO money and have your fun...yolo!

[CSBM5]

F80 market is very firm at the moment, but it remains to be seen how that holds going into G80 launch (gets even firmer? LOL) and into winter. As an example, in summer of 2018 we were waiting on our allocation for an M2C to be filled, and since it was the 3rd slot at the dealer it was looking like it would take into early 2019. A ~20k mile beautiful sakhir orange 2017 F80 ZCP with CPO appeared at our dealer with asking price of $59k, so we thought about buying it in the interim since we had a waiting buyer for my wife's car. It sat there during the summer and finally sold somewhere around $54k as they lowered the price multiple times.

If that car was on the market today, a 2017 ZCP with CPO say 32k miles, what would it be offered at...somewhere in low 50s I'm guessing....2+ years later.

Another thought: be mindful of low mileage (about 10k) 2018 ZCP cars with 437M 19" wheels and carbon ceramic brakes (oh and DCT) on the market. The carfax will show sold at auction, manufacturers car. These are former performance center cars, so keep that in mind.

[niquehawk5]

After looking at a lot of things, looks like 2016-early 2017 (turning off rev matching necessary), ZCP, comp pack, 6MT are the must haves. Would have to check for crank hub fix and do it if it hasn't been already. Any other packages would be great, but I don't think I really see them as must have. Checking for coolant leaks at tank and top IC.

Obviously this is a very personal decision on packages and such, but anything I missed or should note? Any reason to avoid 2015s? (first year of a release always concerns me)

Also adaptive susp or no? Never driven any adaptive but heard its great for a daily from most and totally worth it.

[m3elmo]

Originally Posted by niquehawk5

Also adaptive susp or no? Never driven any adaptive but heard its great for a daily from most and totally worth it.

Get the adaptive, it's worth it, especially once you code it to CS coding. Comp package will have this standard on it so another reason to get that package. Comp package came in 2016 so another reason for that model year.

As for rev-match. Not sure how to explain this, but if you jumped in the car and no one told you the car rev matches for you in efficient, sport, you wouldn't know or find out until day 3/4 of driving it. Meaning you can do your normal manual rev match and the car doesn't like double rev for you. Assuming you rev match on every downshift, even coming to a stop etc. my 2016 only rev matches in efficient + sport. I've consciously made myself drive the car as if it doesn't rev match in all modes. The rev-match feature I do like because my SO can get in the car and it does it for her.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by m3elmo

As for rev-match. Not sure how to explain this, but if you jumped in the car and no one told you the car rev matches for you in efficient, sport, you wouldn't know or find out until day 3/4 of driving it. Meaning you can do your normal manual rev match and the car doesn't like double rev for you. Assuming you rev match on every downshift, even coming to a stop etc. my 2016 only rev matches in efficient + sport. I've consciously made myself drive the car as if it doesn't rev match in all modes. The rev-match feature I do like because my SO can get in the car and it does it for her.

So if I rev match, the car is either doing whatever it wants and is ignoring my input, or taking my input as it doesnt need to, or somewhere in between/both where it just corrects my rev match to a better spot if im "off".......can anyone clarify this? If in fact its not as intrusive as first thought, that opens up late 17s and 18s which would help. Thanks.

[m3elmo]

Originally Posted by niquehawk5

So if I rev match, the car is either doing whatever it wants and is ignoring my input, or taking my input as it doesnt need to, or somewhere in between/both where it just corrects my rev match to a better spot if im "off".......can anyone clarify this? If in fact its not as intrusive as first thought, that opens up late 17s and 18s which would help. Thanks.

If you rev match normally it won't interfere or try to correct what you're doing. as soon as the computer senses throttle input it does nothing.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by m3elmo

If you rev match normally it won't interfere or try to correct what you're doing. as soon as the computer senses throttle input it does nothing.

Thats great news, thanks!

[TopJimmy]

You want the EDC.
If it has coil overs or HAS even better.

[niquehawk5]

Anyone have any experience leather vs cloth seats? I don't mind leather, but not a huge fan of the upkeep and loss of traction while cornering hard.

[m3elmo]

Originally Posted by niquehawk5

Anyone have any experience leather vs cloth seats? I don't mind leather, but not a huge fan of the upkeep and loss of traction while cornering hard.

the problem is any highly optioned car will have leather seats, Cloth seats are fairly rare, especially in the US.

The OEM seats are pretty supportive for being OEM seats and fine for any spirited driving. R-comps on track etc is a different battle.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by m3elmo

the problem is any highly optioned car will have leather seats, Cloth seats are fairly rare, especially in the US.

The OEM seats are pretty supportive for being OEM seats and fine for any spirited driving. R-comps on track etc is a different battle.

Never had a problem with the 340 sport seats and these have much more support to offer, but also more cornering Gs, so thats the only concern but sounds like it shouldn't be an issue then. Thanks.

[frankiebones]

My advice for you coming from the non-performance variety is to wait until spring. You're in buffalo. Nothing worse than buying an M3 in the Northeast right before winter.

Also, if and when you purchase one, drive for a minimum of 2 weeks will traction control fully engaged. It will teach you respect for what the car is capable of.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by frankiebones

My advice for you coming from the non-performance variety is to wait until spring. You're in buffalo. Nothing worse than buying an M3 in the Northeast right before winter.

Also, if and when you purchase one, drive for a minimum of 2 weeks will traction control fully engaged. It will teach you respect for what the car is capable of.

Thanks for the advice.....this is the current plan, but if the perfect one comes along, it is what it is. To be totally honest, my crazy ass might just throw snows on it and drive it year round

I also cant imagine driving too much without it fully on unless I did end up tracking it by chance.....I know how annoying getting power cut can be, but I also dont need to be a hero and cause myself a bigger bundle of trouble with a barrier, guardrail or worse.

Side note: wish I could afford a CS just for that color.....gorgeous

[frankiebones]

Originally Posted by niquehawk5

Thanks for the advice.....this is the current plan, but if the perfect one comes along, it is what it is. To be totally honest, my crazy ass might just throw snows on it and drive it year round

I also cant imagine driving too much without it fully on unless I did end up tracking it by chance.....I know how annoying getting power cut can be, but I also dont need to be a hero and cause myself a bigger bundle of trouble with a barrier, guardrail or worse.

Side note: wish I could afford a CS just for that color.....gorgeous

The CS was the same lease price as my base F80 for what it's worth. I just had to wait 8 months for them to sit unpurchased and unwanted on the dealer lot lol.

I drive my car year round. I go skiing all the time and drive to Maine each winter, no issues using Michelin Alpins.

One thing, or yet another thing to keep in mind, is that IF the perfect car comes around in the winter, you will find winter tires for our wheel sizes very difficult to come by. I had a blow out and it took me 3 weeks to get a replacement winter tire last December.

[niquehawk5]

Originally Posted by frankiebones

The CS was the same lease price as my base F80 for what it's worth. I just had to wait 8 months for them to sit unpurchased and unwanted on the dealer lot lol.

I drive my car year round. I go skiing all the time and drive to Maine each winter, no issues using Michelin Alpins.

One thing, or yet another thing to keep in mind, is that IF the perfect car comes around in the winter, you will find winter tires for our wheel sizes very difficult to come by. I had a blow out and it took me 3 weeks to get a replacement winter tire last December.

OUCH! ya I can imagine finding snow tires will be a task for sure......just part of the game. Considering I wanted basically the highest trim 340 with track pack and certain color, etc.....I feel like I have way more options on the F80 so I can wait. Basically a near CS blue, special order paint would be the only thing to catch my attention at this point. Might be a blue or Sahkir Orange on this one for me. There are at least 10-12 right now I would be interested in versus 0 340s that match what I need, so hopefully spring is good.

[ellipsis212]

Originally Posted by niquehawk5

this 100%......and part of why im asking.....what do you guys think is necessary? competition package is probably a must. seems like the 18 is mostly cosmetic updates and Led lights? Thanks.

I was gonna say - just go for an '18 comp pack so you don't find yourself wishing for the (very) expensive retrofits later

[TopJimmy]

Whatever you get...do the whole car in XPEL film. The stuff is priceless, and crud scrubs off easy. You could also get the Matte look.

[Prossx]

Originally Posted by Adcampo

+1 on crank hub for tuned cars. Not sure if it's an issue for stock cars.

Some dealers have seen none on stock cars, and several on tuned cars.