Rabbit hole of tire temps

[jfritz27]

.... So, anyone care to share some practical tips on using a pyrometer to take temps? Brand? Method? Super special words of wisdom? Sounds like a consistent technique is super critical to getting actionable results. Contemplating taking the plunge into this....

On Ebay found a "Joe's Racing Deluxe" pyrometer for $125, seems to be one of the most affordable ones. Any experience with this model?

This site was pretty informative about the topic, also contains a link to download a spreadsheet that does some of the calcs for you:
https://nasaspeed.news/tech/wheels-t...the-racetrack/

Please discuss...

[NYG]

The key is to get the temps RIGHT at pit lane. The moment you get off track, drive through the paddock and park the car - you've lost the REAL precise information that you need.

That being said you can still do it that way to get an idea of your O M I gradient but the outside temp will drop quicker than middle and inside. There's still valuable information to be had but if you can pull into pit in the middle of the session and have someone check the temps that would be the most accurate.

I use a Longacre Pyrometer that I got from bimmerworld. I abuse that thing, works great.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by NYG

The key is to get the temps RIGHT at pit lane. The moment you get off track, drive through the paddock and park the car - you've lost the REAL precise information that you need.

That being said you can still do it that way to get an idea of your O M I gradient but the outside temp will drop quicker than middle and inside. There's still valuable information to be had but if you can pull into pit in the middle of the session and have someone check the temps that would be the most accurate.

I use a Longacre Pyrometer that I got from bimmerworld. I abuse that thing, works great.

Thanks -- do you have the cheap 119.99 one, or the more expensive one with memory?

[NYG]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

Thanks -- do you have the cheap 119.99 one, or the more expensive one with memory?

The economy one.

[robbo mcs]

To get the best information you really need to do it on a test type day. That way you can come in hot to the pits, measure it, go back out repeat etc. The best way is to come in hot, no cool down lap, and have someone else measure it for you.

You need to do pressure measurements at the same time.

[jfritz27]

We'll see if I can manage getting some usable data on my own. I got the Joe's Racing one, it looks pretty good quality for its price. Has a max temp hold button, along with the compensation feature.

OK, really dumb question: what's the best way to figure out how deep to set the adjustable probe so you're getting temps close to the cord, but not too deep to cause an air leak? With my luck, I would do that at the track

Even though you don't ever measure through any voids, maybe using a center groove measure distance from surface to bottom of groove, then add a mm or two?

[robbo mcs]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

We'll see if I can manage getting some usable data on my own. I got the Joe's Racing one, it looks pretty good quality for its price. Has a max temp hold button, along with the compensation feature.

OK, really dumb question: what's the best way to figure out how deep to set the adjustable probe so you're getting temps close to the cord, but not too deep to cause an air leak? With my luck, I would do that at the track

Even though you don't ever measure through any voids, maybe using a center groove measure distance from surface to bottom of groove, then add a mm or two?

TBH I never even really thought about that. Mine is an old longacre, and wasn't that long, probably only 5mm?? I just used to stick it in to the hub.

I don't think you would find much difference, once you went deeper than around 2mm. However, that would be an interesting thing to look at, out of interest

[NYG]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

We'll see if I can manage getting some usable data on my own. I got the Joe's Racing one, it looks pretty good quality for its price. Has a max temp hold button, along with the compensation feature.

OK, really dumb question: what's the best way to figure out how deep to set the adjustable probe so you're getting temps close to the cord, but not too deep to cause an air leak? With my luck, I would do that at the track

Even though you don't ever measure through any voids, maybe using a center groove measure distance from surface to bottom of groove, then add a mm or two?

I insert the probe at a slight angle depending on how much tread I have. Your best reading will be at the steel mesh.

[m4forum]

Originally Posted by NYG

The key is to get the temps RIGHT at pit lane. The moment you get off track, drive through the paddock and park the car - you've lost the REAL precise information that you need.

That being said you can still do it that way to get an idea of your O M I gradient but the outside temp will drop quicker than middle and inside. There's still valuable information to be had but if you can pull into pit in the middle of the session and have someone check the temps that would be the most accurate.

I use a Longacre Pyrometer that I got from bimmerworld. I abuse that thing, works great.

I agree with you that if looking for exact temperature needs to do it immediately after get into the hot pit late. For me this is very difficult to be achieved but still as you said getting the measurement couple minutes after leaving the track can still tell the gradient between inside, middle and outside
which helps with tire wear / alignment.

On the other side I dont believe the gradient will be so much impacted because what we are measuring is core temperature of the tire and NOT surface temperature. Overtime you will be able to establish an association with performance/wear and temperature which ultimately can lead to better laptime.

[jfritz27]

Thx all -- from what I've read, the deeper you can get the better, which makes sense would minimize the heterogenous dissipation of heat that occurs on the surface inside vs outside in the cool-down period for various reasons (effect of camber, proximity to brakes, etc)

[m4forum]

the reason you press hard against the rubber is to assure the probe reaches the core which is the temperature that matters. core is hotter than the surface. As you reach the core you will feel it. Wait few seconds until temperatures stabilizes and record value. Typically for R compound I measure 170-180F which is a little bit lower than max operational range what is good because at the track most likely was 10-20F higher.