BMW F8X M (All variants) front and rear brake cooling kit

[m4forum]

M3/M4 comes with 4 piston front / 2 piston back -> for track use / R compound / hard driving / medium to high demanding track this system will have excessive pad wear and pedal feel will change relatively fast as pads wear out.
M2C comes with 6 piston front / 4 piston back -> this system is much more robust due sizing and should handle track abuse much much better. The draw back is that front system is really heavy / no option for thicker pads / hard to replace pad at the track (caliper removal). The rear is perfect specially with better rotor (Girodisc).

[Westersund]

Installed a brake cooling kit on a BMW F82 M4 CS today. Couldn't use the hose holder on the control arm because of a different design on the sway bar so I only used the upright hose holder, worked out nicely anyway.

[tauzins]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Installed a brake cooling kit on a BMW F82 M4 CS today. Couldn't use the hose holder on the control arm because of a different design on the sway bar so I only used the upright hose holder, worked out nicely anyway.

We're you not getting enough cooling with the CCBs? Or the BBKs I mean

[jfritz27]

In thinking about this more, and given some people's concern over the potential downside of increased heat exposure of the control arms' ball joints without the stock heat shield, have you considered a design where the lower portion of the backing plate has a piece that extends towards the center so that the ball joint of the LCA gets some heat protection? See below:

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by tauzins

We're you not getting enough cooling with the CCBs? Or the BBKs I mean

The M4 CS isn't mine, but the owner had experienced brake fade towards the end of the sessions even with the CCB's. He liked the feel of the pads and that they are kind to the insanely expensive discs, so he's sticking with them. He have since changed to a racing brake fluid. That paired with the cooling will most likely be enough. I'll update when he's been on the track.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

In thinking about this more, and given some people's concern over the potential downside of increased heat exposure of the control arms' ball joints without the stock heat shield, have you considered a design where the lower portion of the backing plate has a piece that extends towards the center so that the ball joint of the LCA gets some heat protection? See below:

Not really since the LCA joint is further away than the steering tie rod. With frequent track driving the control arm will he worn out way before the rubber boot anyway.

[xMegaMan]

Following, Great design and method to Westersund

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by xMegaMan

Following, Great design and method to Westersund

Thank you! Greatly appreciated.

[Westersund]

I've had a lot of people messaging me about the brake cooling kit and I really appreciate the interest! During summer I had a lot of problem with the printers and having a lot of other things to do I gave up on fixing them and ordered a new Prusa. The new printer was supposed to arrive during quarter 3 but it was post poned due to component shortage, the new estimated delivery is in January 2023.

With that said my patience with 3D-printing as a manufacturing process have reached it's end. Moving forward I will look into making my products in carbon fiber instead and only use 3D-printing for prototypes, one off's, moulds and complex parts. I can't give you an exact date when I'm gonna get there but I will update this thread when I know more.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by Westersund

I've had a lot of people messaging me about the brake cooling kit and I really appreciate the interest! During summer I had a lot of problem with the printers and having a lot of other things to do I gave up on fixing them and ordered a new Prusa. The new printer was supposed to arrive during quarter 3 but it was post poned due to component shortage, the new estimated delivery is in January 2023.

With that said my patience with 3D-printing as a manufacturing process have reached it's end. Moving forward I will look into making my products in carbon fiber instead and only use 3D-printing for prototypes, one off's, moulds and complex parts. I can't give you an exact date when I'm gonna get there but I will update this thread when I know more.

Very nice kit. No update yet? What was the length and part number/supplier for the hose?

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

Very nice kit. No update yet? What was the length and part number/supplier for the hose?

Not yet, my hopes are that the new printer will arrive as annouced in january. It's just a generic neoprene hose in 2,5" bought by the meter, I think I used about 2 feet per side or slightly more. I bought it from a Swedish online shop so you'll probably find equally good and cheaper hose from the states.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Not yet, my hopes are that the new printer will arrive as annouced in january. It's just a generic neoprene hose in 2,5" bought by the meter, I think I used about 2 feet per side or slightly more. I bought it from a Swedish online shop so you'll probably find equally good and cheaper hose from the states.

I have looked into getting some and the cost is high for the high temp stuff. Was going to use the low temp and high temp and thread it together. I'm cheap.

Will you be making the flange above the inlet thicker so it will not brake off as easily? I plan on using stainless hose clamps. Also is there any possibility of you sharing your model? I may have access to a printer here.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

I have looked into getting some and the cost is high for the high temp stuff. Was going to use the low temp and high temp and thread it together. I'm cheap.

Will you be making the flange above the inlet thicker so it will not brake off as easily? I plan on using stainless hose clamps. Also is there any possibility of you sharing your model? I may have access to a printer here.

Single layer neoprene hose is good enough for this purpose and it can handle the heat, I would only use double layer silicone/neoprene for intakes and such to minimize turbulance. The flanges are thick enough and I use stainless steel clamps myself, it's just a matter of some feel. Tighten a little at a time and when you can't move the hose by pulling it moderately it's tight enough.

I've been asked about sharing my files many times and the answer is no I'm afraid. Even if I'm moving to carbon fiber doesn't mean someone else could pick up the torch if I release the files to the public. I've spent a lot of time in R&D. Sorry.

[Theruleslawyer]

Have you monitored the temp on the PETG part on the dust shield? I'd be concerned it would get near the glass point so close to the brakes. Maybe not on track, but also right after and you have hot brakes and a non moving car.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer

Have you monitored the temp on the PETG part on the dust shield? I'd be concerned it would get near the glass point so close to the brakes. Maybe not on track, but also right after and you have hot brakes and a non moving car.

I haven't, I've had a couple of people that got the brakes so hot that the funnels on the dust shield have distorted, probably happened when they went into the pits after a hard stint. Since then I've changed the design to a thicker base and support rib. I will also, once I get the new printer going, start to apply some kind of heat barrier between the dust shield and funnel to eliminate the problem altogether.

[Cerealtunic33]

Hi I would like to purchase this kit

[Westersund]

Just wanted to let you know that I cancelled the Prusa XL because I got tired of waiting (15 months now) and bought a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo instead. The good news is that I'm back to printing and getting to know the printer. I will soon take orders again but I have to crunch the numbers first. There will be a slight price increase but all metal parts will be painted and hardware (stainless hose clamps, bolts, nuts, washers and zip ties) will be included but not the hose. I will offer the kit with 2" or 2,5" fittings and the backing plates will come pre-assembled. I will also make a small design revision of the air guide to direct the air a bit more towards the center of the disc.

The printer is a sweet machine so far, love it!


One of the first test prints and it will improve quite a bit.


I can start the printer from home or from my phone now as soon as I get an order for faster delivery.


I'll make an update in a few days when I know more. But the printer is runing pretty much all the time.

[FrankMstein]

So how much is the full kit, both 2 and 2.5?

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

So how much is the full kit, both 2 and 2.5?

I have to crunch the number first, but it will be a bit more then it is now, but everything except the hose will be included ready to install. It will be the same price for 2" and 2,5".

[Westersund]

I've looked over the numbers and the new price for a complete kit is 380$ and with the added 30$ you get all hardware such as bolts/nuts/washers/zip ties and all metal parts come painted and the backing plates are pre-assembled and ready for install. The first 5 who order a complete kit will recieve an additional bonus consisting of meshes and winter covers or intake enlargers (no it's not what you think it is you pervert lol).

On the contratry to what I said earlier about the hose clamps, those will not be included. The reason is that a package to the US cost about 22$ if it's under 2 kg, if I add the hose clamps (6x stainless hose clamps weigh a bit) I'm not sure I can squeeze the package under 2 kg and an up to 3 kg package cost 50$. The added value will be lost so I think it's better you buy hose clamps separately.

Also I made a small redesign of the air guides to more effectivelly guide the air towards the center of the rotor. Red is the old and green is the new. Just have to verify on my car that it doesn't hit anything, but I think it will work.

[FrankMstein]

That's a great price. I used 2.5" and it is TIGHT and rubs. I would go with 2". I also had to offset the side with the swaybar leveling mount. Also, the extra added .5" of the hose the wheel inner rim rubbed at the hose mount of the scoop rear and I run 15mm spacers on 19". 20" will probably not rub on 2.5 but its hard enough to find track tires in 19" let alone 20".

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

That's a great price. I used 2.5" and it is TIGHT and rubs. I would go with 2". I also had to offset the side with the swaybar leveling mount. Also, the extra added .5" of the hose the wheel inner rim rubbed at the hose mount of the scoop rear and I run 15mm spacers on 19". 20" will probably not rub on 2.5 but its hard enough to find track tires in 19" let alone 20".

I used the 2,5" scoop on my car and it had rubbed slightly on the bottom outer corner, the scoops will hold up despite the small rub. The good thing with plastic is that it welds itself together because of the friction/heat. I ran 18" König Hypergrams 10" wide ET 25. I decided to route the hose up and straight forward past the sway bar link and straight to the backing plate. Just wanted to try it out and the hose seems to be fine even after 10000 km street/track driving.