F83 amplifier replacement

[kabougha67]

Hello,

Unfortunately the amp for my F83 got blown due to submerging in a puddle of water. This is most likely due to the drain holes being plugged. I am having a hard time finding a replacement. 65129366167 is the part number, according to https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=65_2358 this part has been discontinued. If I understand correctly, I need to replace it with that exact one otherwise coding will be needed which I would like to avoid.

Does anyone have suggestions for where to find it? New or used. Are there part sales in this forum?

Thank you!

[Fantastipotamus]

Sucks your amp blew, it's something I worry about a little on my F83 as well.

I haven't tried the newer (replaced by) versions of the amp, but for what it's worth, I replaced mine (I also had the base 'hi fi' stereo) with the one from bimmer-tech.net and it did not require any coding, it was just a direct plug-n-play. It also sounds VASTLY better. If you're in a hurry, I would either buy that one, or if you find a replacement, just call your local BMW dealer and ask if they think coding will be required.

A quick search does show a few on ebay, etc, and there is a for sale forum here, yes.

[mineralsc]

My amp blew as well but mine was just random with no obvious failure or reason. I was in the same predicament in looking for replacement but the cost was making me consider other alternatives. I ended up finding a person that refurbishes/repairs BMW amps that seemed much more reasonable. Website is https://www.bavlogic.com/ and he also has some listings on eBay as well. I had lots of questions and ended up just calling to confirm availability at the time and ensuring everything was plug and play. The guy I talked to was very knowledgeable and helped me understand the process. In the end everything was in fact plug and play.

eBay listing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255191956857

[Fantastipotamus]

Oh yea, I actually had bavlogic fix my old iDrive screen in my 135i before I got my current car. Just the screen was on the fritz (basically looked scrambled, was way worse on hot days), but he was convinced it was the headunit. So i sent him that, he sent it back and it fixed nothing - so he then had me send him the screen which he also fixed for no extra money (just shipping). Seemed like a good dude, and I had zero issues for the next 2+ years before I traded it for the M4. Definitely worth a shot, and would be cheaper than a new amp.

[bacondude]

Hi all,
I have been struggling with this same issue and have a hard time believing I'm doing this right when looking for a solution. I am ok buying a used one, but I can't seem to find it.

The dealer gives me this part number: 65125a41cd0 (I found one for $1600)

Both 65129366167 and 65129393192 came before this part number. I can only find used results for 65129366167, but that's it.

Would those work on my car even though they are earlier and discontinued?

My car has the top-hifi system.
Thanks for any and all help.
-b

[Fantastipotamus]

Originally Posted by bacondude

Hi all,
I have been struggling with this same issue and have a hard time believing I'm doing this right when looking for a solution. I am ok buying a used one, but I can't seem to find it.

The dealer gives me this part number: 65125a41cd0 (I found one for $1600)

Both 65129366167 and 65129393192 came before this part number. I can only find used results for 65129366167, but that's it.

Would those work on my car even though they are earlier and discontinued?

My car has the top-hifi system.
Thanks for any and all help.
-b

Considering the age of your M, you likely have the -6167 one in your car, so that should work just fine.

Worth noting, if you're already considering spending $1600, the amps from bimmer-tech or Bavsound are both cheaper by a few hundred dollars ($1250 and $1299, respectively), AND they will sound vastly better. No coding needed for the bimmer-tech (assume the same for bavsound, but I dont know for sure).

[instalher]

i just bought a 2020 m4 competition convertible and iam going to due a complete audio upgrade. sooooo where the hell is the amp hidden???

[Fantastipotamus]

Nice, congrats!

Assuming it's the same layout, ours is drivers side of the trunk, under the floor behind the rear wheel. There may be a little removable door there that you can open and look down into. It's probably in there.

There's an 'install' video about halfway down this bimmer-tech page that shows it at the 4min 40sec mark or so.

[N44RP]

Anyone try the bav auto amp?

[instalher]

so the first thing i need to due with my new 2 me f83 is to gut the interior, down to bare metal, and run all new speaker wires to the trunk, sound proof the floor, run the ms-8 display.
next remove the doors skins and throw out those horrible 4 inch speakers and tweets and replace with scan speak 11f for the door and arc audio black1.0 tweets, underseat are the earthquake sws 8s and a crap load of dynamat in the doors.. once done reassemble all components.... Now i will take the battery out and wait 24 hrs befor i remove the seats, hopefully i wont throw a cel when i put them back in.. Can anyone chime in on this for me.. i have bimmercode and bimmerlink if that will help

[NealfromNZ]

I've got midbass envy :-)

[Nigelo]

Kind of on this topic.... how to you get the mos connector to the side of the main harness out of the amp?

I'm trying to do it without disassembling the whole trim and cage. There is a lever on top of the plug.... is it push down and pull out, or something else? I've pushed it down til I hear a click, but it won't seem to pull out for anything?

[NealfromNZ]

Once that side lock is pushed in on the most connector should come out very easily with almost no force required. Sounds like it’s not disengaging.

[Nigelo]

Thanks buddy, I thought that was the method but started doubting myself when it just wouldn't slide out.

Maybe a smaller screwdriver to see if I can push the clip down closer to the amp side.

[NealfromNZ]

Originally Posted by Nigelo

Thanks buddy, I thought that was the method but started doubting myself when it just wouldn't slide out.

Maybe a smaller screwdriver to see if I can push the clip down closer to the amp side.

If you’ve got space for a fingernail it should do it. Just push the connector towards the amp a bit can help to let the tab lock to move a bit. There is also the two sleeves that the optic part of the connector mated with so needs to be pulled out as straight as possible

.