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      07-22-2022, 07:57 AM   #1
ny_f82_m4
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Looking for Nitto 305/30/20 or anything similar in size. Probably a long shot but figured I'd try.

Or open to buy a 18in rear set up with radials
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      07-22-2022, 09:23 AM   #2
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Consider a smaller wheel to run drag radials. It's hard to stick them when you've no sidewall.
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      07-22-2022, 11:18 AM   #3
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Consider a smaller wheel to run drag radials. It's hard to stick them when you've no sidewall.
I'd be opening to buy a 18in rear set with a radial too
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      07-22-2022, 01:41 PM   #4
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Consider a smaller wheel to run drag radials. It's hard to stick them when you've no sidewall.
I'd be opening to buy a 18in rear set with a radial too
I ran Hoosier DR2 315/30/18 on Apex EC-7 (the version without knurled beads) down to an 11.0 second ET. Going faster than 11.0 or doing real burnouts will spin the wheels inside the tires an inch or more. Even with the slip I've run this setup down to a best of 10.36s @ 139.

Faster than 11.0 and I'd suggest starting with the EC-7R with knurled beads, and the same tires as above. You need to be stock height, not lowered, and zero camber if possible. This will help your rear to squat and tires dig.
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      07-22-2022, 04:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_f82_m4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Consider a smaller wheel to run drag radials. It's hard to stick them when you've no sidewall.
I'd be opening to buy a 18in rear set with a radial too
I ran Hoosier DR2 315/30/18 on Apex EC-7 (the version without knurled beads) down to an 11.0 second ET. Going faster than 11.0 or doing real burnouts will spin the wheels inside the tires an inch or more. Even with the slip I've run this setup down to a best of 10.36s @ 139.

Faster than 11.0 and I'd suggest starting with the EC-7R with knurled beads, and the same tires as above. You need to be stock height, not lowered, and zero camber if possible. This will help your rear to squat and tires dig.
I'm at stock height and was looking into the apex with the knurled bead. Was wondering if it was worth just lowering the front so the fitment isn't terrible looking. The rear I'm fine with.
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      07-22-2022, 06:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_f82_m4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Consider a smaller wheel to run drag radials. It's hard to stick them when you've no sidewall.
I'd be opening to buy a 18in rear set with a radial too
I ran Hoosier DR2 315/30/18 on Apex EC-7 (the version without knurled beads) down to an 11.0 second ET. Going faster than 11.0 or doing real burnouts will spin the wheels inside the tires an inch or more. Even with the slip I've run this setup down to a best of 10.36s @ 139.

Faster than 11.0 and I'd suggest starting with the EC-7R with knurled beads, and the same tires as above. You need to be stock height, not lowered, and zero camber if possible. This will help your rear to squat and tires dig.
I'm at stock height and was looking into the apex with the knurled bead. Was wondering if it was worth just lowering the front so the fitment isn't terrible looking. The rear I'm fine with.
I did that on my F80 with MP-HAS. Since it's a drag car the rake looked fine. MP because it's one notch softer than stock, which helps launch. (KW is one notch more firm, which is better for track turns)
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      07-22-2022, 10:41 PM   #7
ny_f82_m4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_f82_m4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_f82_m4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Consider a smaller wheel to run drag radials. It's hard to stick them when you've no sidewall.
I'd be opening to buy a 18in rear set with a radial too
I ran Hoosier DR2 315/30/18 on Apex EC-7 (the version without knurled beads) down to an 11.0 second ET. Going faster than 11.0 or doing real burnouts will spin the wheels inside the tires an inch or more. Even with the slip I've run this setup down to a best of 10.36s @ 139.

Faster than 11.0 and I'd suggest starting with the EC-7R with knurled beads, and the same tires as above. You need to be stock height, not lowered, and zero camber if possible. This will help your rear to squat and tires dig.
I'm at stock height and was looking into the apex with the knurled bead. Was wondering if it was worth just lowering the front so the fitment isn't terrible looking. The rear I'm fine with.
I did that on my F80 with MP-HAS. Since it's a drag car the rake looked fine. MP because it's one notch softer than stock, which helps launch. (KW is one notch more firm, which is better for track turns)
Definitely good to know now I know what to do the setup the car for roll/ drag. I know I'd have a problem with clearance but never knew the difference between mp and kw has
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