M2C competition brakes on F80m3/F82m4

[AIRHEIR]

No coding for me as well. Everything feels perfect. Greatly improved performance over stock. Totally love them.

Car should have come with these from factory.

[CSM3]

Hey All, just got a M3CS and am looking to upgrade my brakes. Was very interested in the AP Racing Kit, but the price + fact that my car is still under warranty, can be annoying with the MA dealerships.

Another + point for me, would be I simply love the M3 CS in its original form, hence am doing my best to keep it OEM.

That said, has anyone ever looked in to just buying the calipers from BMW, and using the RB Rotors or Girodisc Rotors, which are you usually significantly less in weight than OEM Rotors?

Thanks!

[CruzM3]

I just bought a M2c caliper & rotor set and I'm wondering if I need special brackets for the front calipers to fit on my '18 M3 ZCP with the normal blue brakes? I see there is a guy selling a bracket for the retrofit but no mention of it here in this thread.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by CruzM3

I just bought a M2c caliper & rotor set and I'm wondering if I need special brackets for the front calipers to fit on my '18 M3 ZCP with the normal blue brakes? I see there is a guy selling a bracket for the retrofit but no mention of it here in this thread.

M2C calipers include the brackets.

[M3_Socal]

I have got a set of rotors for sale if anyone is interested in socal.

[M 4 FUN]

Originally Posted by clubcsl

For the ones who did the upgrade, do you feel the weight difference ?

Thanks !

Yes. way too heavy for me. I will change out the heavy discs and go down to the stock size discs but lighter aftermarket ones. I just need to find adapters for the CCB calipers to move them in.

[m4forum]

I got interested to replace my rear brake to M2C but was not sure if it is 100% plug-n-play. I actually open a post asking the question but decided to do the calculation.

Follow below what I just posted on the other topic but would like to share and make sure you are aware. In case you have already done it the alternative is to use a more aggressive pad on the rear. Also you most likely feel the brake more sensitive and overall piston area for M2C is slightly smaller so less pedal travel is required.

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I had the chance to measure rear caliper piston diameter and confirm it has 44mm. So it means there is a bias shift to front around 4-5%.

M4 iron
Front 4 pistons : 40/40mm = 50.26 cm^2 (62%)
Rear 2 pistons : 44mm = 30.40 cm^2 (38%)
Total : 80.67 cm^2

M2C
Front 6 pistons : 30/34/36mm = 52.65 cm^2 (68%)
Rear 4 pistons : 28/28mm = 24.63 cm^2 (32%)
Total : 77.28 cm^2

As you can see the shift in piston area is around 6% but as this is slightly offset due difference in rotor diameter but still not enough to match M4 bias.

To summarize : if you shift to M2C your brake bias will change 4-5% to the front.

[m4forum]

I see some people have code their M4/M3 non CCB to M2C brakes (bigger calipers and rotors. According what I read it needs VO edit for 2NH. I was able to do that but do you have the details about the CAFD which needs to be modified?
Could you also share your driving experience after the coding?

[Walkabout]

Has anyone with M3/M4 gone from CCB to rotors and pads from M2C?

The hub on my CCB cracked and it is substantially cheaper to change to M2C rotors and pads all over (front and rear) than to change just one rear CCB rotor (and BMW recommend to change them in pairs anyway).

To what I understand, the M2C rotors and pads are bolt-on to the M3/M4 CCB, but it would be recommended to change the booster (going from ceramic to steel).

Anyone with actual experience on changing from CCB to M2C rotors and pads?

[m4forum]

If you have only the rotor/pads with M2C because the booster applies more force braking can be sensitive. I really dont know how much or even if it impacts daily driving but something to consider.

[m4AY]

Originally Posted by E46M3forRay

Installed a set this weekend on my M3 CS. Gained approximately 26lbs total over the blue brakes according to my bath scale.

those are the stock m2c calipers, front and rear. my question is, the adapter for the caliper to hub, does it come with the caliper or is it purchased separate?

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by m4AY

those are the stock m2c calipers, front and rear. my question is, the adapter for the caliper to hub, does it come with the caliper or is it purchased separate?

It is called caliper brackets, and they only come with the caliper.

Racingbrake.com may sell you some used brackets.

[m4forum]

The brackets come with the caliper.

[m4AY]

Yeah the caliper bracket., brain fart. Yes then it is a direct bolt on. I'm a tech at bmw, interesting to see what I can get the complete set for, I'm in need of brakes

[clutchdj]

So I have a full set of these if anyone is interested.
I can’t run the track pads on them that I want, so I’ve decided to sell. PM me if any interest.

[Smee]

morning

has anyone done just the front conversion only to the M2C 6 pots and lets the rears at std 2pot?

if so any side affects to this?

i presume not as the likes of AP will sell you a front only kit etc

[m4forum]

I dont expect much impact as piston area difference is small. As you know M2C only works with 19" rims.

[Smee]

Yea. I've got 437m for track and Cs reps 20s for day use

[CSM3]

Just wanted to share my personal beliefs as a summary from the different opinions shared here:

Caliper Info:

• M3/M5 Original Gold Calipers: Have titanium pistons (superior for heat IMO)
• M2C Silver Calipers: Stainless Steel Pistons
• M Performance Red Calipers: Stainless Steel Pistons

Rotor Info:

• Use original rotors from M2C, you can purchase them from FCP Euro, and basically have rotors for life + shipping costs. However drilled rotors are not great for the track, and in terms of heat dissipation, they can't match that of a true 2-piece rotor like Girodisc.
• Racing brake makes a 380mm rotor you can fit with the CCB/M2C Calipers to clear 18" wheels. You will have to swap the caliper bracket too. Note: BMW does not recommend changing caliper bolts/mounts but I personally don’t see it as an issue. This statement is only made because BMW doesn’t sell a part number replacement bracket, and they don't even share torque specs for the caliper bolts with stock mounts.
• Girodisc - I can't praise them enough about their rotors - I have tracked multiple cars, oem rotors, Brembo rotors, stoptech rotors. And based on similar driving characteristics, these things take ANYTHING you throw at them. They are maybe 1/2 a pound to a pound lighter than OEM - so you are really not saving much from a weight perspective, but durability, confidence, and heat management is superior.

Pads:

1. Ferodo DS1.11, DS 2500
2. I personally went with Carbotech XP20, and they are amazing for track. Durable, strong initial bite... with an insane amount of dust and brake squeal.

Brake Booster
The booster replacements are to lower the system vacuum assist with larger brakes and CCB, the stock iron blue calipers need more assist. So do I need to change my brake booster? I don't think there is a right answer - as it’s all up to preference.

• Going from stock 4 piston to 6 piston: technically BMW goes with a smaller brake booster for less assist, but that also just makes the car easier to drive. You have more pedal modulation. Is it a must? Some love a strong initial bite pedal... And ABS will make sure you don't lock up your tires... How this comes to play with MDM and traction control, you will probably find TC becoming more intrusive.
• CCB to Stock: You will retain the pedal travel you always felt, I can't imagine driving characteristics will change.

I can't confirm - but I believe coding goes hand in hand with TC to accommodate the changes in booster volume. I say this cautiously, but we have drive by wire gas pedals, but not brake by wire brake pedals. So a technically a code can't change pedal feel. But then I have also read how there is something called dynamic brake control, where the car senses potential Collison and adds more vacuum in to the booster so that you have max effect on brakes when the driver stomps on the pedal.

What about the MASSIVE WEIGHT OF THE IRON ROTORS vs CERAMICS...
Yes, the iron rotors are definitely heavier than CCBs no matter how you play it. But here are some benefits that may help you sleep better:

1. They cost less to replace
2. Technically you can't feel the added weight of the rotors - when you are talking about a car that weighs 3600lbs. Our cars are fast, and heck with MCS 2/3ways they are amazing on the track. But you are not going to be 1 or 2 secs faster because of the weight of your rotors. The last thing any GT3/GT3RS/GT4 owner complains about is swapping out their CCB Rotors for Girodisc. Though you do also have the hardcore trackers that go right to AP Kits.
3. You Technically are in more compliance of your factory warranty. BMW Dealerships at least in NA are notorious about voiding our warranties for any aftermarket parts. Anything happens - just throw your ceramic rotors back on, or original blue brakes, and take it in. Technically the same can be said about going with AP Racing or Stoptech kits, but are you going to do that each time you send your car in for service/other warranty items. These techs recognize the car, they sometimes take pictures before opening a case/warranty claim. Less questions are asked, when you have Gold calipers with iron rotors, than a full on AP Racing kit when you have a faulty suspension component.
4. You technically run cooler -
   https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...highlight=temp
   This thread shows a member who stuck temp stickers on his ccb calipers with Girodisc iron rotors. You can't argue with physics.
   
   Nothing beats pure mass for heat dissipation. All things equal, same number of laps, same driver, same level of friction pads. A larger caliper will take longer to heat up than a smaller caliper that drives the same amount of clamping force.
   
   It’s almost an overkill when you read that thread. At least for an average DE driver.
   
   When my warranty is up, I will personally go with the AP Kit for its durability and cost of maintenance. Actually, i heard better things about PFC and Alcon.
   
   Not looking to create a debate here, I do agree the AP/Alcon Kit is superior and would be my first choice, if not for warranty reasons and costs.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Smee

morning

has anyone done just the front conversion only to the M2C 6 pots and lets the rears at std 2pot?

if so any side affects to this?

i presume not as the likes of AP will sell you a front only kit etc

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=81

[Smee]

Cheers all

Next stupid question... if you ran better fluid like rbf600 are the stick pads ok for very occasional track use or are they just dog sh*te on track and stock pads only good for road use

[ABenLauda]

Originally Posted by Smee

Cheers all

Next stupid question... if you ran better fluid like rbf600 are the stick pads ok for very occasional track use or are they just dog sh*te on track and stock pads only good for road use

Still dog shite on track and only good for street use.