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      10-12-2016, 12:52 PM   #23
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Scrapes. A lot, but I don't mind

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Originally Posted by johnr265 View Post
So I have found that in street setting, I have pretty good clearance with the front splitter. I don't hit my driveway and I have not bottomed out on bumps that have my GT4 scraping horribly on the pavement. How is it in track setting for the GTS?
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      10-12-2016, 12:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnr265 View Post
So I have found that in street setting, I have pretty good clearance with the front splitter. I don't hit my driveway and I have not bottomed out on bumps that have my GT4 scraping horribly on the pavement. How is it in track setting for the GTS?
If you are careful and have good judgement, I don't see it being a problem at the track height. Obviously, it wont work if you are going into parking lots with bad inclines or big speed bumps.

I have not experienced any bottoming out or anything like that. I left the damper stiffness setting on "street".
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      10-12-2016, 01:22 PM   #25
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Just to compare, and maybe I have bad judgement. I was in Seattle last weekend and all the step up roads from waterfront let me know just how steep they are I mean if you want to be that guy, and slow to 5km/hr and steering off angle it may have cleared, but bumper to bumper traffic in Seattle is not a good time for that practice.


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Originally Posted by M4_GTS View Post
If you are careful and have good judgement, I don't see it being a problem at the track height. Obviously, it wont work if you are going into parking lots with bad inclines or big speed bumps.

I have not experienced any bottoming out or anything like that. I left the damper stiffness setting on "street".
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      10-12-2016, 01:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VCP View Post
Just to compare, and maybe I have bad judgement. I was in Seattle last weekend and all the step up roads from waterfront let me know just how steep they are I mean if you want to be that guy, and slow to 5km/hr and steering off angle it may have cleared, but bumper to bumper traffic in Seattle is not a good time for that practice.
That's why I pick and choose where I go with the GTS. I usually would avoid going anywhere I haven't been before. But if I get caught at a bad spot, I would take my time and ppl behind me can honk all they like. I wouldn't be embarrassed or give a rats ass about it.
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      10-12-2016, 02:01 PM   #27
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Very true.

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Originally Posted by M4_GTS View Post
That's why I pick and choose where I go with the GTS. I usually would avoid going anywhere I haven't been before. But if I get caught at a bad spot, I would take my time and ppl behind me can honk all they like. I wouldn't be embarrassed or give a rats ass about it.
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      10-12-2016, 05:16 PM   #28
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Some scraping : Looks good from top though so all good.
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      10-12-2016, 05:37 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by VCP View Post
Some scraping : Looks good from top though so all good.
Its only a $2700cdn lip plus $300cdn to paint right? I think I have a spare lip painted and ready to go, so let it scrape!

Last edited by M4_GTS; 10-12-2016 at 07:17 PM..
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      10-16-2016, 12:17 PM   #30
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OK, so question. Is lowering it relatively easily done or do I need a shop to do it? It sounds like you don't need to adjust the alignment when you do that either, is that correct? Sorry for the seemingly simple question but in the past, I always had to take it to a shop to get it properly aligned or do ride height/corner balancing.
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      10-16-2016, 02:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnr265
OK, so question. Is lowering it relatively easily done or do I need a shop to do it? It sounds like you don't need to adjust the alignment when you do that either, is that correct? Sorry for the seemingly simple question but in the past, I always had to take it to a shop to get it properly aligned or do ride height/corner balancing.
If you can lift your GTS to pull wheels and have basic mechanical knowledge you should be ok.
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      10-16-2016, 03:04 PM   #32
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Its al very easy to click compression and rebound. You do it easy by your selfe. As well lower down, but could also let some shop with lift do that part. Also remember every time lower / or higer her you must put in brand new bult( the One marked)

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      10-16-2016, 03:07 PM   #33
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As you see there is not that much difference in clicks street/Nurburgring vs track setting.

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      10-16-2016, 04:36 PM   #34
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Interesting, any idea on the bolt part number or where to source it?

Has anyone put their GTS on an alignment rack to see what the stock camber and toe are in the street vs track position? Anyone make any adjustments to the stock settings?

Thanks. Great to keep the dialog open as the cars filter out to their owners.
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      10-16-2016, 08:15 PM   #35
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Why do you have to replace the bolt?

Also seems as BMW has made it that you just lower it and everything else falls in line. Camber toe etc....
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      10-16-2016, 08:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warp10 View Post
Why do you have to replace the bolt?

Also seems as BMW has made it that you just lower it and everything else falls in line. Camber toe etc....
Its almost impossible to adjust the ride height without taking off that bolt of the rear struts to free it from the control arms. Its because of the tension on the springs and it also provides more room to work with the spanner wrench once you swing the strut out of the way.

Yes, no alignment needed as the car was corner balanced and aligned at the "track" ride height at the BMW M facility.
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      03-22-2021, 03:00 PM   #37
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Going to the shop tomorrow to lower the coilovers for track use. I'm sure my C-clips are still in place.

As I could understand no toe or camber needs to be adjusted by lowering the height... I have some doubts as on every racecar, when you change the height everything needs to adjusted again...
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      03-22-2021, 03:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoTrack View Post
Going to the shop tomorrow to lower the coilovers for track use. I'm sure my C-clips are still in place.

As I could understand no toe or camber needs to be adjusted by lowering the height... I have some doubts as on every racecar, when you change the height everything needs to adjusted again...
It was designed to remain in spec when lowered.

Make sure you have the shop replace the bolts in the rear suspension - supposed to be replaced every time the car is raised/lowered.
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      10-30-2022, 04:43 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M4_GTS View Post
Its almost impossible to adjust the ride height without taking off that bolt of the rear struts to free it from the control arms. Its because of the tension on the springs and it also provides more room to work with the spanner wrench once you swing the strut out of the way.

Yes, no alignment needed as the car was corner balanced and aligned at the "track" ride height at the BMW M facility.
In the process of adjusting mine to track setup. However, even with the shock bolt removed, I cannot adjust the rear spring height (c clips removed). Spanner does not fit either. What’s the trick?
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