Put and F80 M3/F82 M4 on four Jack Stands

[Sir Loin]

There has been a lot of discussions here on how to put our cars on four jack stands. I have not been able to find a video that demonstrates how to do it that is specific to our M3 and M4. So when I had to put my car on jack stands to work on the mid pipe and exhaust, and bleed the brake fluid, I recorded the process and put it into a video.

Hope this helps.

[Kilabyte]

Awesome, I just picked up that same jack on Sunday to install springs on my M3, I wish I thought about putting some boards under the front wheels to reach the central jacking point, still did the job.

I'll use this to install the AA midpipe

[Sir Loin]

The two clamps to link up the two back pipes to the front thick pipe is a real pain to put on. You may need a helping hand to use a pair of pliers to get the 2 ends closer for you to screw the bolt into the nut. good luck! PM me if you have questions.

[pbar]

Originally Posted by Kilabyte

I wish I thought about putting some boards under the front wheels to reach the central jacking point, still did the job.

Instead of wood blocks, a cheapish pair of jack assist ramps would probably feel safer, and give clearance for a slightly larger jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Cusco-A517-SL.../dp/B00W2628X2

https://www.amazon.com/Discount-Ramp...gateway&sr=8-8

The Cusco ones are in two parts - the slope detaches once the car is on the ramp so that you can get a jack stand in.

Hard to beat the price of a couple of wood blocks though!

[blockdoc]

Originally Posted by pbar

Instead of wood blocks, a cheapish pair of jack assist ramps would probably feel safer, and give clearance for a slightly larger jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Cusco-A517-SL.../dp/B00W2628X2

https://www.amazon.com/Discount-Ramp...gateway&sr=8-8

The Cusco ones are in two parts - the slope detaches once the car is on the ramp so that you can get a jack stand in.

Hard to beat the price of a couple of wood blocks though!

I find ramps VERY useful

[SD ///M4]

Before I had my RaceRamps and now QuickJacks, I used a couple pieces of 2x6 about 18" long. I used my mitre saw to cut one end at a diagonal which made it easier to drive up on. I also screwed a 2x2 widthwise across the other end as a stop. This is easier to drive up on and stop than trying to precisely stop on a 2x4.

If you just want to get the front of your car up high enough to change the oil or get just the rear up to replace the exhaust or change the diff oil, RaceRamps are great.

If you want the whole car up to be able to remove the wheels to replace/swap brake pads, bleed the brakes, install camber plates and/or springs, or for pretty much do anything underneath the car, QuickJacks are awesome! I can have my car up 22" in the air within 10 minutes of centering it in the garage. Costco has them on sale frequently and priced less than anywhere else.

[Sir Loin]

I would love to get a set of QuickJacks, but they are large and heavy to store and move around. That is the reason why I went with 4 good jack stands and a good low profile long reach jack. If you have the space, QuickJacks are great.

[damageprone]

Nice video and explanation! I am always weary and hesitant on where to jack up different cars and regarding the safety. This is why I also went with QuickJacks.

Originally Posted by Sir Loin

I would love to get a set of QuickJacks, but they are large and heavy to store and move around. That is the reason why I went with 4 good jack stands and a good low profile long reach jack. If you have the space, QuickJacks are great.

The QuickJacks actually store quite well. I have them stored standing up in the corner of my garage taking up a 1ft X 1ft space with a tie down strap around them for safety. They are heavy, but you can drag them around as they have built in wheels on one end.

[Tommy L Garage]

If you look at the manual it specifically states that you should not lift by the rear diff - you're risking damage doing it that way

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by Tommy L Garage

If you look at the manual it specifically states that you should not lift by the rear diff - you're risking damage doing it that way

Hi Tommy. In the video I did not lift the car up by the rear diff, if that is what you are referring to. I lifted the rear end car up by the sub-frame. Below are a couple of screen shots from my video.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by damageprone

The QuickJacks actually store quite well. I have them stored standing up in the corner of my garage taking up a 1ft X 1ft space with a tie down strap around them for safety. They are heavy, but you can drag them around as they have built in wheels on one end.

This is also what I do. They fit upright in the corner in the space between the back wall and the side garage door. I used eye hooks screwed into a couple of studs, snap carabiners, and chain link to secure mine.

[icegrill]

Quick jacks are on sale it looks like from ecs right now.

[aboulfad]

Thanks for the vid. What are those jack stands with the hockey puck adapter? You can also jack from subframe in the middle, just behind the diff, though it's a small surface and probably best and easier to use either sides of the subframe.

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Thanks for the vid. What are those jack stands with the hockey puck adapter?

Here is a link to the jack stands I used in the video.
https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Ja.../dp/B0019JVIPM

They come with a rubber top that our cars' jack points can just rest on. If you really want to use adapters, you can remove the rubber top and the jack stands top is a round, flat top surface with raised edge for the adapter to keep the adapter in place.

[noone]

Guys, you can buy 4 jack stands for less than the cost of 1 of the jack stands the OP is suggesting.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jac...BoC13cQAvD_BwE

You simply put a 6" length of 2 x 4 over the claw so the claw doesn't chew up the plastic foot on the car.

At $210 bucks for 4 jack stands you are already a 1/4 of the way to the quikjak!

[Sir Loin]

Originally Posted by noone

You simply put a 6" length of 2 x 4 over the claw so the claw doesn't chew up the plastic foot on the car.

Hi noone, do you have a picture to show the orientation of the jack stand and the 2x4 with the car sitting on the 2x4? I can't think of a way to do what you describe and still have a stable car to work underneath. Thanks.

[noone]

Originally Posted by Sir Loin

Hi noone, do you have a picture to show the orientation of the jack stand and the 2x4 with the car sitting on the 2x4? I can't think of a way to do what you describe and still have a stable car to work underneath. Thanks.

The 2x 4 blocks on top of the jack stand claw simply keeps the jack stand claw from chewing up your plastic jack point. Center the block on the claw and on the jack stand underneath the plastic jack point. Believe me, the weight of the car will keep the jack stands in place, and the claw will dig in slightly on the bottom of the 2 x 4. Just as safe as the aforementioned jack stands only much cheaper.

[RuskiE39]

This was VERY helpful. Thank you!

[sandfleee]

Prior to getting quickjacks (best invest ever) I used a low profile AC brand jack. The long reach and low profile is a Godsend with low profile cars.