Oil Drain Plug Stripped ... anyone use Time Sert?

[sna66]

Originally Posted by Jeef

how does this even happen in the first place? lol..

Apparently it's really easy for the steel bolt to destroy the softer aluminum threads in the oil pan. Usually ppl overtighten the both, never letting anyone change my oil again

[SD ///M4]

You didn't mention what year your F83 is. There was an oil pan/drain plug change during MY 2015. I believe that the original plug was an aluminum Allen bolt but I don't remember what the oil pan material was, possibly titanium. I think the change may have had something to do with the chemical reaction between two different alloys. BMW changed the oil pan material to aluminum IIRC and went to their standard steel drain plug used on most models.

[sna66]

Its a 2015, but with the newer style drain pan- aluminum with steel bolt.

The early 2015s had a magnesium drain pan, I don't know what this looks like, I think I saw somewhere that it's like the e9x m3... so it's not a bolt but like an Allen screw

[TheBreeze]

I've repaired 3 BMW oil pans with the Time Serts, worked perfectly each time. The last one was an e9x M3 with an aluminum pan. Done correctly, the Time Sert will be stronger than the factory bolt hole. Just remember - NEVER guess when torquing the drain plug. Screw in by hand, then torque to 18 ft lbs and you'll never have an issue.

[fchen0125]

I stripped the plug on my E70 before, I used Eco-Plug , which is a bigger bolt and basically creates new threads and permanently stays on the oil pan. There was no leak and makes future oil change a breeze too with a pull of the magnet. only thing is that it sticks out a little bit, so if your car is really low, might not work

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[sna66]

Originally Posted by fchen0125

I stripped the plug on my E70 before, I used Eco-Plug , which is a bigger bolt and basically creates new threads and permanently stays on the oil pan. There was no leak and makes future oil change a breeze too with a pull of the magnet. only thing is that it sticks out a little bit, so if your car is really low, might not work

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

This looks like a better solution… I put permatex everytime I change oil to make sure no leaks

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by sna66

yes thats the one, day 3 and no leaks... think I'm good.

How’s it holding up?

[sna66]

Still going strong, seems like everyone with an S55 will run into this at some point

[Pussiwillow]

N55 here
Had mine strip, PO must have nerfed it because it always bound up mid way with fair resistance so I knew my time was limited.
I did a timesert 7k miles ago and 2 oil changes, no leaks whatsoever, I did remove the pan to do it, and installed a baffle and sway bar and oil/coolant lines.

The trick is to have it VERY clean and very straight, the kit makes it fool proof. Let the red loctite cure 24 hours, 8-12 hours minimum, it'll last a very long time. Zero drops. Bone dry.

Edit: it can be done in the car, no issues, my oil pan gasket was starting to show age with weeping so I took it upon myself to remove it, just flush it out realllly well, I would change oil and filter after a few hundred miles to be 100% certain it's clean.

[Pussiwillow]

Pics:

[andrei.m4]

audi diesel engine drain plug is the next size to go!!! I done this directly on the car slowly, the thread size to this drain plug is bigger and will not fail soon.

[sna66]

Originally Posted by andrei.m4

audi diesel engine drain plug is the next size to go!!! I done this directly on the car slowly, the thread size to this drain plug is bigger and will not fail soon.

This is good info… do you have the part number you can share? will be very helpful

[andrei.m4]

febi FE103344
oem code N0138157
m14

[Slo_F80_Mike]

Thought I’d just post my experience on here for anyone else that runs into this issue in the future. My car is a 2016 with the aluminum pan and steel bolt. Basically I did my first oil change back when I got my car and didn’t know the oil pan was aluminum, was used to steel pans. Did it a little too tight and then the bolt was going tight and then it went loose and kept spinning. I knew then that I was screwed lol so I left it in there till the next time I had to change the oil and deal with it. Oil pan about 1k from Germany shipped as others have mentioned and then gotta drop the whole sub frame and suspend the motor, def not a easy job. So I looked at alternatives and found the time sert. Me and my friend worked on doing the install. Getting old plug was hard, one person had to get flat head and apply downward force and one had to twist it. We apply grease to the drill bit to keep as much as the shavings contained when drilling new hole and then installed the time sert. However it was slightly at an angle, but still functions fine. Been over 1.5 years and like 2 oil change and never had any leaks or issues. Now I don’t gotta worry about stripping it again either. So this is where the story gets interesting…I did my friends oil change a while after this on his f80 and I had learned my lesson so I made sure to barely tighten his plug, I used torque wrench and I don’t even think I went to 18ft lb (aluminum pan torque spec) just to be on the safe side. So he hits me up the other day cuz he went to get oil change at a shop and they say his pan is stripped….I said we def made sure to not tighten it due to my own mistake. I told him I bet it was the tech that over tightened it then blamed the person who did the oil change last. Hard to prove anything in these situations, so they said they can rethread using bmw tool or whatever for 350. He said okay. They call him later saying that didn’t work and to install new pan. 3500 initial quote and then he got them down to 2500. I know there’s no way I stripped it, just crazy how common this issue is. This is why I do my own work (granted mess up too lol) but I now know. They honestly should’ve just made it steel, who cares about another 15 pounds lol

[verruckt]

This is why I use these (Stahlbus drain valve - SB-210111-S-NA for M3/M4). No need to remove the drain plug every time:

[sna66]

If you think spun crank hub is a common issue, spun drain plug is 10x more common. I can guarantee that taking an f8x for an oil change to any shop other than the dealer or an experienced Indy shop will strip the threads and you have no recourse because they will say that it was not them that did it.

Everyone with an f8x should be aware of this issue and either do their own oil changes, or atleast tell the shop that if they tighten the drain plug to anything over 18ft lbs they will strip the threads and be responsible for a $4k bill.

I think that going with a larger bolt maybe the easier solution, the time sert works, but can still have a small leak and is a painful installation- especially removing the spinning bolt, mines is still holding up but I put gasket maker to seal after every oil change.

[John matuszak]

Hi there. You could try tapping the pan with a new thread then getting one of those sump bungs with an rubber o-ring on it. I’ve done this on an e39 and it worked well. It should be an easy fix just try to get all the shavings when you tap it.

[Vandaljimenez]

All BMW dealerships also have a repair kit for this. Of which they drill in a bigger thread size, and provide you with a new drain bolt and washers. It’s extremely common, and cheaper than replacing your whole oil pan. The repair kit they use also blows compressed air through the engine to get rid of metal shavings during the repair process. The new bolt would also have a higher torque yield for what I understand. I would just have anyone here with this issue, send their car to their nearest bmw dealership, and let them repair it.

[shaolinx]

The dealership used their repair kit on mine when it had the same issue. Now my plug is rated for 40nM. Anything less then it would leak. Seems to be holding out well after 2 oil changes.

[M3ntal_F80]

Originally Posted by verruckt

This is why I use these (Stahlbus drain valve - SB-210111-S-NA for M3/M4). No need to remove the drain plug every time:

Any clearance issues with this?

[verruckt]

Originally Posted by Lj_F80

Any clearance issues with this?

None. It doesn't protrude below the skid plate. You're only talking adding maybe 1/2" in length between this and the stock bolt.

It also makes oil changes much less messy. I've used them for years and they're probably the best oil drain valve design I've seen.

[jfritz27]

This is a really neat idea, may pick one up myself