M2C competition brakes on F80m3/F82m4

[Mattyfish16]

Probably going to be hated for resurrecting this thread however….

I have upgraded the fronts to M5 F10 Calipers… M2C 400mm discs, I have left the rears alone for now.

Firstly… is there a simple upgrade for 4 pots for the rear Ie a calliper bracket to retrofit the OEM M4 fronts to the rear…, or do I need to buy the full M2C callipers, discs, and dust Sheild?

Secondly… in its current set up… do I need to code… ? Would I benefit from coding?

[MDG1981Telesto]

Hi, everyone

is there someone here on the forum who can code from a distance ? i live in Belgium and a need a coding for the 2NH brakes on my m3 Comp. and the local dealers here don't know what i'm talking about.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by MDG1981Telesto

Hi, everyone

is there someone here on the forum who can code from a distance ? i live in Belgium and a need a coding for the 2NH brakes on my m3 Comp. and the local dealers here don't know what i'm talking about.

kubax86

[sdjro]

After i had these brakes for more than one year i reverted back to stock brakes, the steering is more precise the suspension beheaves better. I can feel de weight difference between them.
For track i use Ferodo ds 1.11 with Castrol srf and brakes are good but runing hotter than 2nh.
Price wise is more cheaper to have the stock brakes, all parts are cheaper.

[rapindrive]

With which application can I calibrate the brakes? any mobile type application?

[Tommix]

My friend installed 2NH M Sport Brakes on his F80. When driving on the track, the car's front brake pads wear so that the pad wears out on the front part (see this area picture below), even though there is still plenty of surface elsewhere.



He uses OEM brake pads and the sliding pins and sliding surfaces are clean and greased.
On the street brake pads wear normaly.
Anyone got this kind of problems?

Edit:
Now I got pictures of brakepads

New:



After one track day:

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Tommix

My friend installed 2NH M Sport Brakes on his F80. When driving on the track, the car's front brake pads wear so that the pad wears out on the front part (see this area picture below), even though there is still plenty of surface elsewhere.


He uses OEM brake pads and the sliding pins and sliding surfaces are clean and greased.
On the street brake pads wear normaly.
Anyone got this kind of problems?

Edit:
Now I got pictures of brakepads

This happens when the caliper is mounted upside down.

[Tommix]

Originally Posted by Track/S

This happens when the caliper is mounted upside down.

I think this is no issue, brakes were installed by a official BMW dealer.
But, this is not always a guarantee of quality

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Tommix

I think this is no issue, brakes were installed by a official BMW dealer.
But, this is not always a guarantee of quality

A picture of disassembled caliper showing the pistons.

[Tommix]

Lets clear this out, caribers are in right (side) position.

[JAI///M3]

Could be a stuck caliper piston on that side. If the piston is unable to retract it will keep the pad in contact with the rotor. You can check by jacking the car up and see info if the wheel will spin freely.

[RugbyBro]

Pad taper is normal - I get noticeable taper on my stock 4/2 setup. However, mine tapers at the bottom, not the top

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Tommix

Lets clear this out, caribers are in right (side) position.

How do you know they are well installed? Your friend need to go to bmw to mounting those calipers, and you affirm that they are well installed...

[Tommix]

Originally Posted by Track/S

How do you know they are well installed? Your friend need to go to bmw to mounting those calipers, and you affirm that they are well installed...

Sorry, I don't understand your point at all. How can you install thease upside down. The bleeder screws of the brake caliper come up and the connecting pipe is at the bottom of the brake caliper.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Tommix

Sorry, I don't understand your point at all. How can you install thease upside down. The bleeder screws of the brake caliper come up and the connecting pipe is at the bottom of the brake caliper.

These calipers can be mounted on cars where they are mounted on the front side, changing the screw bleeders position.
But don't worry I see you know a lot, good luck with your issue.

[Tommix]

Originally Posted by Track/S

These calipers can be mounted on cars where they are mounted on the front side, changing the screw bleeders position.
But don't worry I see you know a lot, good luck with your issue.

I think it's strange if you buy new brakes from BMW dealer and you have to wonder are they mouted right or wrong.
But hey thanks for this information, lets move on.

[jaylazy2020]

Hello to all.

I’ve a 2018 F82 Stage 2 comp, superb car and drives so well in Germany.

My only issue is from high speed 150mph plus the brakes drone and don’t inspire confidence


Hence I’m looking to change at least the front discs and pad as it’s 55k miles now(DS2500 pads fitted 15k ago)

Option 1: Ebc fully floating front discs with yellow stuff pads circa €950

Option 2: Ap racing Radica front kit 380mm circa €3400

Option 3: 2NH 400mm 6 pot fronts 380mm 4 pot rear kit circa €4500

Option 4: full CCCB retrofit kit €10,500

On all of the above I’ll switch to braided lines and Castrol SRF


In terms of value for a completely braking system and being able to sell existing brakes as a kit for circa €1500 option 3 makes sense as it’ll be around €3k plus labour to change over


I’m aware of the weight penalty but as I’ll never track the car and my fast road driving isn’t too hard I’m looking for advice as to what would be the best solution

Thanks in advance.

If anyone likes deep house and techno.

Check out my latest mix!


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[Everling]

Hello all. I just did this upgrade this weekend and then added “2NH” to the VO/FA. Is there anything else that needs to be changed via coding to make sure everything works as intended?

[M 4 FUN]

Originally Posted by deli333

mate i just said 666m + gold calipers + big steel discs are just too heavy vs what you can get at a better price and much lighter. if you check the above reply he says it is very noticeable. why you get mad?




maybe he can give more details like straight line, acceleration, handling wise what differences he felt

Sorry for late reply here.
You notice this weight reduction all the time when driving. It feels like the car trips on it's toes now compared to how it was before. Steering is lighter and more responsive, chassi reactions are much better and the crashy feel of the heavy unsprung weight earlier is gone. The difference is BIG. Remember, taking out almost 20 pounds on just one front wheel is a crazy amount of weight. This means that comfort also is improved substantially as suspension is working much more effectively instead of letting the chassi taking the hit.
Acceleration wise is a bit harder to tell but my total weight reduction of my car makes the same as increasing horsepower with 30 hp so there is a slight difference but hardly noticeable in that way.
But all weight reduction is always good, everywhere and all the time
Easier on the car, easier on the brakes, only benefits, but expensive. I have weighted my car and with a full tank it weighs 3443 pounds and it is loaded with all options except CD changer and cigarrette lighter so i'm quite satisfyed with that. Moore weight reduction is hard to do without throwing stuff out.

[jbalabas]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Pad taper is normal - I get noticeable taper on my stock 4/2 setup. However, mine tapers at the bottom, not the top

Bingo!!!! Pad taper is normal. Magura makes a caliper that is used on bmw motorcycles. It has 4 pads per caliper for this reason. The leading edge of the pad is going to see more heat and wear. On these caliper the F&R pads are seperate to allow the rear pad to stay cooler and perform better. leads to even more uneven pad wear at the benefit of cooling. They scaled that caliper down to mtb size and they're so me of the best brakes you can buy. That being said still worth checking the pistons to make sure they're moving freely.

[jaylazy2020]

I’ve had the 2Nh kit installed for last 800km.

Smooth from high speed whereas the standards use to drone badly under heavy high speed braking.


Unfortunately I still don’t get that reassuring initial bite

Someone posted here that the two letters refer to cold and hot bite.

From what I can see on the calipers I bought(they were second hand with only 3000km on them) they are running the oem pads which I’ve read are very good for street use.

I do need to have brakes and abs system bled again as despite fitting steel lines and SRF fluid the pedal still feels spongy

Thanks and advice

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

I’ve had the 2Nh kit installed for last 800km.

Smooth from high speed whereas the standards use to drone badly under heavy high speed braking.


Unfortunately I still don’t get that reassuring initial bite

Someone posted here that the two letters refer to cold and hot bite.

From what I can see on the calipers I bought(they were second hand with only 3000km on them) they are running the oem pads which I’ve read are very good for street use.

I do need to have brakes and abs system bled again as despite fitting steel lines and SRF fluid the pedal still feels spongy

Thanks and advice

Getting the DSC/ABS lines cycled will potentially address your soft pedal. If it doesn’t then read on…

There’s some brake coding available that supposedly makes the pedal firmer, braking more linear and improved threshold braking on track. All of it sounds to good to be true but pretty much everyone that’s had it coded says it is true. I can’t recall the user names of the two members that claim they were the first figured it out. I’d search in the suspension, chassis and braking forum, and the track forum.