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      10-05-2017, 09:11 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by hdubf80 View Post
I think this is due to the break compound themselves. BMW changed them from the E9X platform and these are shit. I started a thread about this a while ago, It has gotten better since but occasionally it still shows up.
You are spot on. These OEM M2 pads are junk. I never had this type of problem with the pads and rotors on my 235i. It is really embarrassing that my M2 brakes cannot take a few laps at the track without melting the OEM pads and leaving uneven deposits on the rotors which make them feel warped.
I?m sure BMW is very aware of this problem but instead of making new pads they?d rather stay quiet and have us deal with it much like the Spun Crank Hub situation. All BMW cares about is making money. Not fixing problems for their loyal customers.
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      10-19-2017, 05:03 PM   #46
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Absolutely gutted with my M3, took the car in about 3 months after owning it with this terrible vibration throughout the car at 60-70MPH+, as soon as I touch the brakes, you feel it throughout the entire car....

When I took it in the first time, they admitted front rotors were warped so they swapped them out with new rotors & pads.

Got the car back from them & from the minute I drove it off the lot, same problem, nothing changed.

Took it back again, now they are saying the rear's are warped and going to swap those out. Will keep you guys posted and let you know when I get the car back, hopefully it will be tomorrow.
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      10-19-2017, 05:57 PM   #47
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Believe me I understand why you suspect pad deposits. However, the shop tech did a runout test and that confirmed warped rotors. Additionally, I am quite familiar with pad deposits and I bedded the brakes before I took it in. Judder did not go away until they replaced the rotors.
Un-even pad deposit will also show runout being off. That is a big reason most shop misdiagnose it as warped rotors. Look at the size of those rotors. It takes some serious stress to warp these.

Uneven pad deposit, if bad enough, can evolve in a non-recuperable situation. If the brakes continue to be highly solicited with un-even deposits, the high spots will create hot spots on the discs. The increased heat can transform the rotor metallurgic properties and make them harder in that location, sort of a local heat treat. Once this happens, the rotors will wear less in those locations which only exacerbates the problem. That is why proper brake management is so important to avoid severe uneven pad deposit.
This is total fact - not fiction. I had the same issue.
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      10-20-2017, 10:39 AM   #48
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Believe me I understand why you suspect pad deposits. However, the shop tech did a runout test and that confirmed warped rotors. Additionally, I am quite familiar with pad deposits and I bedded the brakes before I took it in. Judder did not go away until they replaced the rotors.
Un-even pad deposit will also show runout being off. That is a big reason most shop misdiagnose it as warped rotors. Look at the size of those rotors. It takes some serious stress to warp these.

Uneven pad deposit, if bad enough, can evolve in a non-recuperable situation. If the brakes continue to be highly solicited with un-even deposits, the high spots will create hot spots on the discs. The increased heat can transform the rotor metallurgic properties and make them harder in that location, sort of a local heat treat. Once this happens, the rotors will wear less in those locations which only exacerbates the problem. That is why proper brake management is so important to avoid severe uneven pad deposit.
This is total fact - not fiction. I had the same issue.
Yep. After all 4 rotors and pads were replaced, I got to look at the old rotors and it did appear that uneven deposits existed. Once again, CanAutM3 was correct. Fortunately, my problem was resolved once all 4 corners got replaced.
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      10-20-2017, 10:40 AM   #49
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Absolutely gutted with my M3, took the car in about 3 months after owning it with this terrible vibration throughout the car at 60-70MPH+, as soon as I touch the brakes, you feel it throughout the entire car....

When I took it in the first time, they admitted front rotors were warped so they swapped them out with new rotors & pads.

Got the car back from them & from the minute I drove it off the lot, same problem, nothing changed.

Took it back again, now they are saying the rear's are warped and going to swap those out. Will keep you guys posted and let you know when I get the car back, hopefully it will be tomorrow.
Same happened to me. Problem was fixed by doing the rears.
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      10-21-2017, 09:31 PM   #50
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It's a pad compound issue. I would suggest changing to something else. (Porterfield R4S, Pagid, etc...)

If you want to get rid of the judder I would use some Hawk Blue pads to scour the rotors and then use a standard street pad. Hawk Blue's are pretty much equivalent of getting the rotors turned.
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      01-06-2018, 03:19 PM   #51
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It's a pad compound issue. I would suggest changing to something else. (Porterfield R4S, Pagid, etc...)

If you want to get rid of the judder I would use some Hawk Blue pads to scour the rotors and then use a standard street pad. Hawk Blue's are pretty much equivalent of getting the rotors turned.
When I was at the dealership about a month ago the shop foreman told me that the stock brake pads for the F8x generation (unlike previous generations) use an organic pad material and that in the relatively recent past they have noticed more people complaining of brake judder.

I went with the F8x back in Sept. 2014. Every winter around January the judder very gradually comes back. Last Feb I swapped to Pagid RS29 pads and after about a month of daily driving the problem went away.

I have never had issues with brake judder between mid March and December. There is definitely a correlation with the colder weather.
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      01-06-2018, 03:21 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerslide View Post
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Originally Posted by blackey View Post
It's a pad compound issue. I would suggest changing to something else. (Porterfield R4S, Pagid, etc...)

If you want to get rid of the judder I would use some Hawk Blue pads to scour the rotors and then use a standard street pad. Hawk Blue's are pretty much equivalent of getting the rotors turned.
When I was at the dealership about a month ago the shop foreman told me that the stock brake pads for the F8x generation (unlike previous generations) use an organic pad material and that in the relatively recent past they have noticed more people complaining of brake judder.

I went with the F8x back in Sept. 2014. Every winter around January the judder very gradually comes back. Last Feb I swapped to Pagid RS29 pads and after about a month of daily driving the problem went away.

I have never had issues with brake judder between mid March and December. There is definitely a correlation with the colder weather.
And I agree with what CanAutM3 and others are saying that it is not warped rotors - when I swapped to my RS29's last February - I kept the same rotors on and the problem completely went away...
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      02-03-2018, 06:23 PM   #53
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I think BMW quietly changed the compound on the brake pads.

I have have the issue twice and the rotors / pads replaced twice earlier.

Just had my 30k service done and the vibration had been back for a while.

I Complained about it and was told "can not reproduce issue", however when I got my car back, the pedal felt much firmer with a the pedal engaged the brakes a lot sooner.

They obviously did not change the rotors and made no mention of doing anything on the paperwork, but the vibration is completely gone. I still get a little growling sound, but no vibration.

I think they quietly changed the pads.
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      02-23-2018, 01:15 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerslide View Post
And I agree with what CanAutM3 and others are saying that it is not warped rotors - when I swapped to my RS29's last February - I kept the same rotors on and the problem completely went away...
Have you had a dial on the rotor? I have the judder, but I have measured .1 and .2mm run-out. BMW won't warranty me any rotors (for a car under 10,000KM) so I fail to see it as deposits that a race pad will clean up.
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      02-24-2018, 07:26 PM   #55
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Have you had a dial on the rotor? I have the judder, but I have measured .1 and .2mm run-out. BMW won't warranty me any rotors (for a car under 10,000KM) so I fail to see it as deposits that a race pad will clean up.
I never did put a dial on the rotors. I will say though - there was undeniable brake vibration/judder in February of 2017 (which caused me to swap out my stock pads for Pagid RS29's). I left my RS29's in, and after about 2 weeks, I had maybe a 5-10% improvement, then another 5-10% improvement by 2 weeks later, and then all of a sudden in early April the judder suddenly diappeared completely (so, the first 30% improvement occurred over approximately 5 weeks, then the remaining 70% improvement happened in about a week).

So - was it the pads, or just the warmup in weather (whether due to warmer temperatures, no more salt on the roads, or both)? Unfortunately, the anecdotal information I have seems to be somewhat (but not convincingly) consistent with both...
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      02-27-2018, 04:25 AM   #56
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I've conceded to pay for new rotors - cheaper for me than to travel to a sympathetic dealer who "might" warranty rotors for me. I will endeavour to get the wonky ones machined and run them as track weapons. Going to try to daily Pagid RSL29's
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      02-27-2018, 06:20 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by mynameisplayer View Post
Have you had a dial on the rotor? I have the judder, but I have measured .1 and .2mm run-out. BMW won't warranty me any rotors (for a car under 10,000KM) so I fail to see it as deposits that a race pad will clean up.
Uneven pad deposit will display the symptom of excessive face runout.
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      04-26-2018, 09:05 AM   #58
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I really hope it can be fixed with a different brake pads. I've actually found this old article on the subject.
http://www.bmwblog.com/2014/04/13/ne...-brake-system/

Last edited by BLKSAPPE92; 04-26-2018 at 10:58 AM..
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