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      11-14-2020, 11:26 PM   #45
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The Carbonstructure cloth is indeed the best seating material I've ever experienced-never hot, never cold regardless of weather. Generally negates the need for cooling. Too bad they couldn't incorporate it into the G80 seat designs as they seem better overall than the F80, which should have had better contouring/adjustability on the bottom cushion.
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      11-16-2020, 07:22 AM   #46
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The Carbonstructure cloth is indeed the best seating material I've ever experienced-never hot, never cold regardless of weather.
Exactly my thoughts....like stated before, I'm guessing any car optioned the way I want it will have leather, but its definitely not a deal breaker either way. Thanks.
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      11-16-2020, 07:35 AM   #47
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Whatever you get...do the whole car in XPEL film. The stuff is priceless, and crud scrubs off easy. You could also get the Matte look.
I have always loved the frozen colors so that is definitely an option. Ive seen some accounts of chipping on the leading edge of the carbon roof too and turning into a whole ordeal with peeling clear coat, so at that point, ya just do the whole car. Thanks.
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      11-16-2020, 07:56 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by niquehawk5 View Post
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Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Whatever you get...do the whole car in XPEL film. The stuff is priceless, and crud scrubs off easy. You could also get the Matte look.
I have always loved the frozen colors so that is definitely an option. Ive seen some accounts of chipping on the leading edge of the carbon roof too and turning into a whole ordeal with peeling clear coat, so at that point, ya just do the whole car. Thanks.
Xpel is nice but doing the whole car adds $5k to your expenses. I would never do it unless you both own the car and it's brand new. We recently did the whole front, hood, and front fenders on our new suv for about $1500 so there are options in between.
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      11-16-2020, 08:41 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by ellipsis212 View Post
Xpel is nice but doing the whole car adds $5k to your expenses. I would never do it unless you both own the car and it's brand new. We recently did the whole front, hood, and front fenders on our new suv for about $1500 so there are options in between.
Ya, I was just looking at it and you bring up a good point about new.....I will probably keep the car "forever", but theres also probably 1k in paint correction before I put it on as well.....was just on their site and as you mentioned, for about 1k-1.5k I can do the real trouble areas for some piece of mind......rock chipping a hood bad enough might also force me into a CF one haha
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      11-16-2020, 09:11 AM   #50
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I did the front quarter "bra" but upgraded to the full hood. I was thinking the same about "that should be good" and "I can always fix the paint if needed" but...

1) some dick in a pickup gave me a nasty door ding and paint chip the friggin size of a quarter, and PPF might have saved me. Either way PPF would have kept the chip intact.

2) wide tires, which are needed on these cars, kick up rocks that chip door edges and rocker panels.

3) paint is a bitch to match, even with my Alpine White, since I have OCD and grew up at a car lot (dad owned). I can see a defect across the parking lot.

4) because of that OCD any edges of the PPF stand out to me, and the PPF adhesive does collect dirt on non-tucked edges. A full PPF has all edges pulled and tucked.

5) instead of a ceramic treatment and all the required hand-washing, with a full PPF you can just do drive-thru real scrub car washes. Just find a new car wash with clean woolies. After 1.5 years of drive thru I have no scratching on PPF or paint. If you want extra gloss add a little spray of Kenotek Showroom Shine on your drying buff after the drive-thru.
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      11-16-2020, 11:14 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
I did the front quarter "bra" but upgraded to the full hood. I was thinking the same about "that should be good" and "I can always fix the paint if needed" but...

1) some dick in a pickup gave me a nasty door ding and paint chip the friggin size of a quarter, and PPF might have saved me. Either way PPF would have kept the chip intact.

2) wide tires, which are needed on these cars, kick up rocks that chip door edges and rocker panels.

3) paint is a bitch to match, even with my Alpine White, since I have OCD and grew up at a car lot (dad owned). I can see a defect across the parking lot.

4) because of that OCD any edges of the PPF stand out to me, and the PPF adhesive does collect dirt on non-tucked edges. A full PPF has all edges pulled and tucked.

5) instead of a ceramic treatment and all the required hand-washing, with a full PPF you can just do drive-thru real scrub car washes. Just find a new car wash with clean woolies. After 1.5 years of drive thru I have no scratching on PPF or paint. If you want extra gloss add a little spray of Kenotek Showroom Shine on your drying buff after the drive-thru.
Thanks to you and my own OCD for costing me $5K

I was going to do the rear quarters and behind the tires for sure.....and I despise seeing the lines....every time I walk passed my brothers car its the first think I notice. I also have two younger girls and keeping them away from the car let alone making time to hand wash.....ya good luck.
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      11-17-2020, 02:55 PM   #52
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This should be turned into a sticky. Valuable resource to have these "what to look out for" threads.
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      11-18-2020, 08:36 AM   #53
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This should be turned into a sticky. Valuable resource to have these "what to look out for" threads.
I totally agree.....I am for sure not the only person looking to move into a M3/4 from a "fake M" 3/4 series that needs to learn all they can and make an educated choice aside from test driving. Some things you can only learn from experience with a platform......really appreciate all the kind help I've received the last few weeks.
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      11-19-2020, 10:26 AM   #54
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https://www.townebmw.com/inventory/u...m9c59h5g83653/

Definitely not jumping on it, but any thoughts? This is at my local BMW and if its still there in April/May by chance, it might be hard to ignore depending on price. I was definitely leaning San Marino Blue (hard to find) or Sahkir Orange (much easier) but this is interesting and I actually like the blue inserts in the seats.
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      11-19-2020, 11:46 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niquehawk5 View Post
https://www.townebmw.com/inventory/u...m9c59h5g83653/

Definitely not jumping on it, but any thoughts? This is at my local BMW and if its still there in April/May by chance, it might be hard to ignore depending on price. I was definitely leaning San Marino Blue (hard to find) or Sahkir Orange (much easier) but this is interesting and I actually like the blue inserts in the seats.
at that price there are plenty of fully loaded 2018s with the updated headlights
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      11-20-2020, 04:55 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niquehawk5 View Post
https://www.townebmw.com/inventory/u...m9c59h5g83653/

Definitely not jumping on it, but any thoughts? This is at my local BMW and if its still there in April/May by chance, it might be hard to ignore depending on price. I was definitely leaning San Marino Blue (hard to find) or Sahkir Orange (much easier) but this is interesting and I actually like the blue inserts in the seats.
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at that price there are plenty of fully loaded 2018s with the updated headlights
If that was a 2018 I'd consider it above market priced. As a 2017 it seems way above.
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      11-20-2020, 06:01 AM   #57
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niquehawk5 View Post
https://www.townebmw.com/inventory/u...m9c59h5g83653/

Definitely not jumping on it, but any thoughts? This is at my local BMW and if its still there in April/May by chance, it might be hard to ignore depending on price. I was definitely leaning San Marino Blue (hard to find) or Sahkir Orange (much easier) but this is interesting and I actually like the blue inserts in the seats.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisMikeNa View Post
at that price there are plenty of fully loaded 2018s with the updated headlights
If that was a 2018 I'd consider it above market priced. As a 2017 it seems way above.
agreed. i think it also depends on the state. i know in colorado, f80s are pretty hard to find so they cost a little more
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      11-20-2020, 07:16 AM   #58
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I definitely think it is overpriced especially after looking at Jahre package comps and its close, but you don't really get anything outside of rare cosmetics. My thoughts were more if this is still there in the spring, considering it will start snowing here any day, and it dropped more into the mid 50s, but even there seems high for 17s.
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      11-20-2020, 07:18 AM   #59
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agreed. i think it also depends on the state. i know in colorado, f80s are pretty hard to find so they cost a little more
I'm more than willing to travel, especially to a southern state, to find one that may be a little cleaner. Just tough to buy out of state before seeing in person. Definitely would want a CPO or someone who had immaculate records if it came to that.
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      11-20-2020, 08:54 AM   #60
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at that price there are plenty of fully loaded 2018s with the updated headlights
I honestly like both.....the old AE but with the blacked housings of the new hex design would probably be my favorite so Im not super concerned about 2018 versus 17s unless I am missing something? I-drive can be updated just the same, correct?
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      11-25-2020, 05:39 AM   #61
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Here's a link to the sticky thread on the production breakdown figures for the F80. While it is among the sticky threads at the top of the forum, it's useful to point out referring to it if anyone has something specific in mind in their hunt.

For example, if you're looking for a Sakhir Orange LCI F80, you are hunting among only 787 imported examples (which brings up a question of what's the difference between Sakhir and Sakhir 2, but I digress). If you're interested in a Ferrari Red M3, the total was 33 cars with Imola Red totaling 96. Etc...

Knowing the production volume of a specific desire (6MT vs DCT, color, interior, etc) can help put into perspective the rarity of a given example you come across. For example, if one desires Sakhir Orange LCI ZCP 6MT with the cloth interior, then that total number is likely very small...somewhere well less than 1% or so of all M3s sold. Now add in mileage and condition to the mix, and it allows one to quickly see how a particular choice coupled with its mileage and condition might be very, very hard to come by again if you pass on it.

The final thought is that we're leaving "that window in time" where you can find a somewhat large supply of F80s with relatively low mileage (and still under factory warranty) and hence in potentially near new condition. This is where those who are crazy OCD about car condition can still find a decent example somewhat easily (i.e. no paintwork, no winter road use, none or little daily beater use, etc). If you want an F80 with say less than 15k miles, it's still possible to have a fairly large selection set, but that will end quickly over the next year to two years (just did a quick sort on Autotrader for 2017-2018 M3 with under 15k miles, and it shows 49 nationwide - which of course is just that amount listed on that site but it helps quantify it).

Final thought is to note that many dealers are mistakenly listing their ZCP cars as an "M3 CS" on sites like Autotrader and Cargurus. This is screwing up the pricing algorithms used by many sites apparently. This might be good news for someone looking for an M3 CS right now...couple that with a car traded into a non-BMW dealership, and a nice deal can (and has) shown up.
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      11-25-2020, 07:38 AM   #62
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I always knew Sakhir or YMB would be the easier to find in a spec I wanted, but this basically confirmed I should really start to like those colors and be happy with them. Packages, mileage, history, manual are all incredibly more important than an exterior color. Really appreciate the help here. If you find the unicorn, you just gotta jump.

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Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
Here's a link to the sticky thread on the production breakdown figures for the F80. While it is among the sticky threads at the top of the forum, it's useful to point out referring to it if anyone has something specific in mind in their hunt.

For example, if you're looking for a Sakhir Orange LCI F80, you are hunting among only 787 imported examples (which brings up a question of what's the difference between Sakhir and Sakhir 2, but I digress). If you're interested in a Ferrari Red M3, the total was 33 cars with Imola Red totaling 96. Etc...

Knowing the production volume of a specific desire (6MT vs DCT, color, interior, etc) can help put into perspective the rarity of a given example you come across. For example, if one desires Sakhir Orange LCI ZCP 6MT with the cloth interior, then that total number is likely very small...somewhere well less than 1% or so of all M3s sold. Now add in mileage and condition to the mix, and it allows one to quickly see how a particular choice coupled with its mileage and condition might be very, very hard to come by again if you pass on it.

The final thought is that we're leaving "that window in time" where you can find a somewhat large supply of F80s with relatively low mileage (and still under factory warranty) and hence in potentially near new condition. This is where those who are crazy OCD about car condition can still find a decent example somewhat easily (i.e. no paintwork, no winter road use, none or little daily beater use, etc). If you want an F80 with say less than 15k miles, it's still possible to have a fairly large selection set, but that will end quickly over the next year to two years (just did a quick sort on Autotrader for 2017-2018 M3 with under 15k miles, and it shows 49 nationwide - which of course is just that amount listed on that site but it helps quantify it).

Final thought is to note that many dealers are mistakenly listing their ZCP cars as an "M3 CS" on sites like Autotrader and Cargurus. This is screwing up the pricing algorithms used by many sites apparently. This might be good news for someone looking for an M3 CS right now...couple that with a car traded into a non-BMW dealership, and a nice deal can (and has) shown up.

Last edited by niquehawk5; 11-25-2020 at 08:02 AM..
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      11-25-2020, 05:08 PM   #63
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With respect to PPF on the whole car vs just certain parts what kept me from doing the whole car isn’t so much the cost but the knowledge that the vast majority of installers will use a knife on your paint almost guaranteed. There’s just no easy way to do a whole car PPF job without cutting up the car. I’d hate to pay $5-6K plus and find out that the nice paint underneath is scored in many different areas.

That said I am very glad I have PPF on my front bumper. It has saved me numerous times. I only wish I did the hood and CF roof as I have a couple of permanent down to the metal scratches on the hood and a small CF chip at the front edge of my roof. I’d get the bumper, headlights, mirrors, hood and Cf roof done. I’d also remove the factory film on the front of the qtr panels and extend it up further.
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      11-25-2020, 05:10 PM   #64
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Just got my hood resprayed and it's gotten chipped up already and I've only driven it 5k miles since the respray. Def worth it to ppf. Gonna respray bumper soon and probably get that ppf
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      11-27-2020, 12:06 PM   #65
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Assuming you have completed test drives in both comp and non comp models? I've had two F80s and my current '18 F80 w/ adaptive and 18" 513s rides MUCH different versus my last F80 w/ passive suspension and 19" wheels. You are coming from a 340, and NY roads, so good to confirm your preference. Your preference might also be influenced by any other cars you have; I have an M2c that rides plenty stiff, so an M3 comp pack with 20" wheels would just be more of the same.
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      11-29-2020, 02:43 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Assuming you have completed test drives in both comp and non comp models? I've had two F80s and my current '18 F80 w/ adaptive and 18" 513s rides MUCH different versus my last F80 w/ passive suspension and 19" wheels. You are coming from a 340, and NY roads, so good to confirm your preference. Your preference might also be influenced by any other cars you have; I have an M2c that rides plenty stiff, so an M3 comp pack with 20" wheels would just be more of the same.
I’m curious as to the difference in the ride that you noticed. Please elaborate as test drives during COVID aren’t easy (for me).
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