Work Wheels - T7R2P looks too close to strut

[justm3f80]

Hi Everyone, Need help with figuring if my tires will fit on this set-up without running spacers or making crazy camber adjustments. I ended up trading my wife's Audi and had pre ordered a set of wheels for her. As my luck would have had it, the vendor got the wrong specs and was gracious enough to let me change the order and swap a set for my M3. I Did a test for of the rear wheel. 19x11 et +37 and the lip looked too close to the feder liner and strut. I'm on stock height and suspension. I'd appreciate some information on if this set up will work without rubbing. when I spoke to Work through vendor in Japan they said this will fit no issues even sent me a Japanese translation booklet. but the test fit for me thinking otherwise.

I was hoping to go 295/35/19 . pictures attached.
wheel specs 19x11 et 37

any guidance would be appreciated!!



Thanks

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

Hi Everyone, Need help with figuring if my tires will fit on this set-up without running spacers or making crazy camber adjustments. I ended up trading my wife's Audi and had pre ordered a set of wheels for her. As my luck would have had it, the vendor got the wrong specs and was gracious enough to let me change the order and swap a set for my M3. I Did a test for of the rear wheel. 19x11 et +37 and the lip looked too close to the feder liner and strut. I'm on stock height and suspension. I'd appreciate some information on if this set up will work without rubbing. when I spoke to Work through vendor in Japan they said this will fit no issues even sent me a Japanese translation booklet. but the test fit for me thinking otherwise.

I was hoping to go 295/35/19 . pictures attached.
wheel specs 19x11 et 37

any guidance would be appreciated!!



Thanks

Looks like with a tire you'll be rubbing. I think the offset might be wrong? To be safe, I would run a spacer if you have to run this wheel, but I think something is incorrect with the specs.

[F80Speed77]

Wow those are some big wheels and they look great! It will 100% depend on the tire you go with since not all tires measure the same at their advertised width. It's a little hard to gauge distance to the strut with the angles you have, can you try sticking a tape measure above it to see how much room you have? You can also measure lip to lip on the wheel and then compare the section width of the tire you are looking to buy off tire rack to see if it will stick out past the edge of the wheel. I'd say as long as you have 5mm of space to the strut you should be good. You would probably only need a 3mm-5mm spacer max.

[dizcrazipnoi33]

My rear wheel is 20x11 et 37 running 295/30 ps4s... not rubbing... it's also what was recommended to me by hre..

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by F80Speed77

Wow those are some big wheels and they look great! It will 100% depend on the tire you go with since not all tires measure the same at their advertised width. It's a little hard to gauge distance to the strut with the angles you have, can you try sticking a tape measure above it to see how much room you have? You can also measure lip to lip on the wheel and then compare the section width of the tire you are looking to buy off tire rack to see if it will stick out past the edge of the wheel. I'd say as long as you have 5mm of space to the strut you should be good. You would probably only need a 3mm-5mm spacer max.

thanks for the compliment! the wheels were chunkier than I expected! ok so I took a tape measure and lip to lip looks to be 12 inches though the wheels say 11 inches wide. I'll need to find time this week or weekend to do a proper measurement as suggested and mount the rears and fronts to test. The current tire I'm running is 295/30/19 MPSS on stock wheels it sits pretty close to the inner fender liner and strut but no rubbing whatsoever. I would rather not run spacers if I can get away with it. I'll post more pictures on the weekend or if I get time this week.

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by dizcrazipnoi33

My rear wheel is 20x11 et 37 running 295/30 ps4s... not rubbing... it's also what was recommended to me by hre..

thanks this gives me hope that I'll be safe from rubbing or needing spacers. stay tuned for the pictures! could you share pics of your set up? want to visualize how much they stick our or whether flush..

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by N1rve

Looks like with a tire you'll be rubbing. I think the offset might be wrong? To be safe, I would run a spacer if you have to run this wheel, but I think something is incorrect with the specs.

thanks mate - the specs checked out with multiple vendors. what I'm worried is the tire profile. MPSS is known to run wider. don't know if MP4S is similar. was getting a good deal with Pirelli's from Costco. might consider that as a last result. desperately don't want to deal with spacers.

[dizcrazipnoi33]

Here you go....

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by dizcrazipnoi33

Here you go....

that car looks beautiful! What was the tire specs on the front? 265/30/20?

[dizcrazipnoi33]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

that car looks beautiful! What was the tire specs on the front? 265/30/20?

20x9.5 et 20 265/30 ps4s

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by dizcrazipnoi33

20x9.5 et 20 265/30 ps4s

thanks

[dizcrazipnoi33]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

thanks

Np... anytime

[F80Speed77]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

thanks for the compliment! the wheels were chunkier than I expected! ok so I took a tape measure and lip to lip looks to be 12 inches though the wheels say 11 inches wide. I'll need to find time this week or weekend to do a proper measurement as suggested and mount the rears and fronts to test. The current tire I'm running is 295/30/19 MPSS on stock wheels it sits pretty close to the inner fender liner and strut but no rubbing whatsoever. I would rather not run spacers if I can get away with it. I'll post more pictures on the weekend or if I get time this week.

Ok that's pretty normal that the lip to lip measurement is about an inch or so wider. That will give you a reference for how the tire will fit. TR says that both 295/30/19 PSS tires come in at just under 12" of section width so you should have minimal amounts of sidewall going out past the edge of that wheel. If the gap to the edge of the wheel from the strut/fender liner is >5mm or so you should hopefully be rub free.

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by F80Speed77

Ok that's pretty normal that the lip to lip measurement is about an inch or so wider. That will give you a reference for how the tire will fit. TR says that both 295/30/19 PSS tires come in at just under 12" of section width so you should have minimal amounts of sidewall going out past the edge of that wheel. If the gap to the edge of the wheel from the strut/fender liner is >5mm or so you should hopefully be rub free.

So it took a long long time but finally mounted the wheels on the M3.

the wheels cleared with loads of room to spare. I went with MPSS MO spec all round. I snagged the last set in Canada for the summer everything is back ordered. I would have gone with *BMW in the rear but the wait time was till September at least up here in Canada (I tried multiple vendors). Spoke with Tire rack about MO spec on the back they advised the difference would be unnoticeable unless I was a pro driver (which I am not) so I'll ride this them and report back how they feel over time.

A couple of thoughts on the drive back home. Holy Spirit!! the car feels completely different it's so much more comfortable and so much more planted on corners and WOT. The tyres are noisy but that's to be expected from PSS.

I'm on the fence on whether to lower the car or not. I have been patiently waiting for my warranty to expire before getting more adventurous. Thoughts on which set up is both cost effective and keeps a good comfort level ?

more later and thanks for reading this far and for the bits of wisdom.

[EricP3]

Did you actually go with 295/35/20 on the rear? I thought it was hard to run more than 30 on the rear with 20" wheels. Looks like the fitment is pretty good.

[justm3f80]

went with 19s all round, and in the rears 295/35 which turned out to be a really nice.. like f80speed777 there was good amount of space. my rears are 11" wide and still the tires look meaty.

added few pics from yesterday evening.

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

went with 19s all round, and in the rears 295/35 which turned out to be a really nice.. like f80speed777 there was good amount of space. my rears are 11" wide and still the tires look meaty.

added few pics from yesterday evening.

new pictures

[AlterZgo]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

I'm on the fence on whether to lower the car or not. I have been patiently waiting for my warranty to expire before getting more adventurous. Thoughts on which set up is both cost effective and keeps a good comfort level ?

IMO there is never any reason to wait until warranty expires before doing any mods. The logic just isn’t there if you think it through. If you install springs when your car is brand new with only 10 miles or old with 60K miles, what will you do if those stock shocks blow out? Assuming the dealer denies warranty for the shocks due to aftermarket springs, in either case, you’d pay out of pocket to replace those shocks.

So there is basically zero difference in out of pocket costs when modding a brand new 10 miles car or an old out of warranty 60K miles car. However, there are many advantages to modding when new… your car is in tip top shape and your shocks and suspension bushings and everything else is new so it should take to lowering very well. If you wait till 50k miles you will be installing springs on tired ass shocks and suspension that has worn bushings and what not.

Finally, modding when new gives you the longest period of time to enjoy your mods. The depreciation curve on mods doesn’t change much whether you sell them after 10K miles or 70K miles. People will just see them as used mods. So you may as well install them as early as possible so you get max enjoyment for the cost.

Same logic applies to other riskier mods like tuning your engine. If the car blows up at 10K or 60K miles from a tune, you pay the same cost out of pocket to replace that engine… so why wait till warranty expires to tune a car with 50K+ miles with charge pipes that may be ready to crack and spark plugs that are worn out and injectors that have been firing for 50K+ miles? Again, makes zero sense to wait b/c you still need to pay out of pocket for a new engine if you blow up the motor out of warranty.

[justm3f80]

Originally Posted by AlterZgo

IMO there is never any reason to wait until warranty expires before doing any mods. The logic just isn’t there if you think it through. If you install springs when your car is brand new with only 10 miles or old with 60K miles, what will you do if those stock shocks blow out? Assuming the dealer denies warranty for the shocks due to aftermarket springs, in either case, you’d pay out of pocket to replace those shocks.

So there is basically zero difference in out of pocket costs when modding a brand new 10 miles car or an old out of warranty 60K miles car. However, there are many advantages to modding when new… your car is in tip top shape and your shocks and suspension bushings and everything else is new so it should take to lowering very well. If you wait till 50k miles you will be installing springs on tired ass shocks and suspension that has worn bushings and what not.

Finally, modding when new gives you the longest period of time to enjoy your mods. The depreciation curve on mods doesn’t change much whether you sell them after 10K miles or 70K miles. People will just see them as used mods. So you may as well install them as early as possible so you get max enjoyment for the cost.

Same logic applies to other riskier mods like tuning your engine. If the car blows up at 10K or 60K miles from a tune, you pay the same cost out of pocket to replace that engine… so why wait till warranty expires to tune a car with 50K+ miles with charge pipes that may be ready to crack and spark plugs that are worn out and injectors that have been firing for 50K+ miles? Again, makes zero sense to wait b/c you still need to pay out of pocket for a new engine if you blow up the motor out of warranty.

like you said, your opinion. some people like me would rather do what we want with our money, car and time at the end of the day it's preference. No need to spew: bile based on your opinion/ your own preference.

[AlterZgo]

Originally Posted by justm3f80

like you said, your opinion. some people like me would rather do what we want with our money, car and time at the end of the day it's preference. No need to spew: bile based on your opinion/ your own preference.

How is what I said spewing bile? I'm just laying it out logically. I would really appreciate your thoughts on refuting anything I said. I'm being serious here.

What will you do if you wait until warranty expires to lower your car and once you do, your shocks blow out? You'd replace the shocks out of your own pocket right? Isn't that the same thing you would do if the car was new and the dealer denied your warranty claim b/c you had lowering springs installed? Wouldn't it be better to install springs on a car w/ fresher shocks in the first place than installing springs on a 4 yr old car with over 50K miles on the stock shocks?

Again, why is laying out this logical perspective "spewing bile"?

[EricP3]

Originally Posted by AlterZgo

How is what I said spewing bile? I'm just laying it out logically. I would really appreciate your thoughts on refuting anything I said. I'm being serious here.

What will you do if you wait until warranty expires to lower your car and once you do, your shocks blow out? You'd replace the shocks out of your own pocket right? Isn't that the same thing you would do if the car was new and the dealer denied your warranty claim b/c you had lowering springs installed? Wouldn't it be better to install springs on a car w/ fresher shocks in the first place than installing springs on a 4 yr old car with over 50K miles on the stock shocks?

Again, why is laying out this logical perspective "spewing bile"?

To me its really just personal preference. Some people don't want to take the chance of having to deal with a dealer trying to deny a warranty claim due to mods. I had 1 year of warranty left on my M3 when I bought it and I chose to wait to mod until warranty was expired for that reason but also just to enjoy and get used to the car stock for a while.