07-09-2017, 10:46 AM | #1 |
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S55 Spark Plug DIY
CloudVIII and I decided to do a little spark plug DIY since there isn't one kicking around yet. Hopefully this helps some of you out I'm going off memory, apologies in advance if I forgot to highlight a bolt or am missing a needed tool.
Tools needed: Thin wall 12 point 14mm spark plug socket Torque Wrench E11,E12,E14 6mm, 8mm, 1/2" and/or 12mm socket Trim removal tool / Flathead Screwdriver Torques: Spark Plugs - 18ft-lbs Brace - Did not find specific torque values for the brace but took between 24 & 28 ft-lbs to remove each bolt. 1. Open Hood and remove bolts circled in red. The top 6 are 1/4 turn after which you can remove the cover. Remove bolts circled in green after cover has been removed. They have also been circled red in the next picture. 2. Remove more brace bolts & pop the covers off the middle two bolts. 3. Remove middle brace bolts 4. Pop off rivets & unplug connector on each side. Lift rubber cover to expose bolt in next picture 5. Remove bolt, & remove entire brace and set aside 6. Remove these 3 bolt on each side and lift out cover 7. Should look like this now 8. This step is optional but it makes removal of charge pipes much easier. Remove rear turbo intake pipe be removing bolt behind the pipe indicated by arrow. 9. Loosen Charge Pipe Clamps 10. Remove Charge pipe bolts on each turbo outlet & remove charge pipes 11. This is what it should look like after removing charge pipes. Be careful not to drop anything in the turbos! 12. After charge pipe removal you will see the engine cover. Pull up to unseat it from its grommets and wiggle it out. 13. After engine cover removal you will see the 6 ignition coils. 14. Unplugging of coils 15. After unplugging coils, we used a socket extension where the red line is to pull up on the ignition coils and remove them. 16. Use spark plug socket to remove old plugs and install new plugs, WITHOUT ANTISEIZE, at 18ft-lbs. 17. Putting everything back together is reverse of removal.
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07-09-2017, 01:02 PM | #3 |
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07-09-2017, 01:10 PM | #4 |
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3.0L is hardly a big engine - it's pretty small actually.
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07-09-2017, 02:32 PM | #5 |
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Everything is relative - in this case w.r.t. the engine bay
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07-10-2017, 12:45 AM | #8 |
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It'll act as lubricant and throw off the torque
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07-10-2017, 12:46 AM | #9 |
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Would be great if anyone could confirm this! Thank you.
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07-10-2017, 02:22 PM | #11 |
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Nicely done. I had this done in about 90 minutes in my garage when I regapped with new plugs. Thanks for making this for the community!
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07-31-2017, 11:52 PM | #15 |
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10-06-2017, 06:59 PM | #19 | |
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Pretty cheap
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10-06-2017, 07:18 PM | #20 |
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28Nm renew screw.
Last edited by TMD29; 10-06-2017 at 07:30 PM.. |
11-09-2017, 12:31 PM | #21 |
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I followed this DIY today and have a couple notes from my experience:
- The bolts in photo 3 were different on my car (Nov 2014 build) - I had 17mm hex bolts. - It's not necessary to loosen the charge pipe clamps nearest the intercooler. Simply loosening the clamps nearest the charge pipes is more than enough. - It's imperative you have a 14mm 12-point thin-wall socket. A standard deep socket is too fat to fit inside the spark plug hole. I successfully ground a standard socket thinner on a bench grinder, but what a pain. I had to use a magnet to fish the plugs out of the holes. - The coils just press in place and have nothing to hold them inside the holes. Just a firm push is required to seat them. They are not flush with the head when full seated. - My plugs had 30,000 miles and my engine is completely stock. As it turns out, I did not need to do plugs at all. Mine were totally fine, but I did them while I was in there. All of the gaps were correct at .025" and none needed to be adjusted on the new plugs. - This isn't a difficult job at all, it just takes time and patience. It took me 3.5 hours, including wasting time asking for tools from people who had no clue what I was asking for, and grinding down a socket to fit. - BMW went to a lot of trouble making the engine brace in aluminum and carbon fiber to save weight, but then makes a thick, heavy plastic rear center cover for the engine bay. - If I had to do it again, I'd try leaving the aluminum portion of the engine brace in place. It may not be necessary to remove it, even though it wasn't difficult. |
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11-12-2017, 07:41 PM | #22 |
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Just did this today.
My top 2 bolts from picture 3 were E18 (maybe that’s what FlyingLow78 meant, or BMW ended up changing bolts 3 times. The torque list from TMD29 was invaluable (for those of us who actually believe in proper torque specs). Actually quite easy to do, however, it is amazing how many bolts and pieces you need to remove to just get at these plugs. Worse than the E9X and E46 M3’s I’ve had to do them on. Even my X5M was easier.... Thanks OP for a great DIY |
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