Crank Bolt Capture

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by JipperII

Do I need to do this if I'm just running catted dps, El mid pipe and a stage 2 tune? 2019 comp with 31k miles

CBC is economical protection

[Kilabyte]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

CBC is economical protection

FFS I need to do mine, it's been laying in the garage for more than a year. If I could only find a decent DIY to do it from the top...

[icegrill]

Originally Posted by Kilabyte

FFS I need to do mine, it's been laying in the garage for more than a year. If I could only find a decent DIY to do it from the top...

Originally Posted by Kilabyte

FFS I need to do mine, it's been laying in the garage for more than a year. If I could only find a decent DIY to do it from the top...

Same! I bought one on the Black Friday sale several years ago

[Marioec]

Originally Posted by Kilabyte

FFS I need to do mine, it's been laying in the garage for more than a year. If I could only find a decent DIY to do it from the top...

They are a few DIY videos in youtube

[Kilabyte]

Originally Posted by Marioec

They are a few DIY videos in youtube

Post them

[Marioec]

[Marioec]

Anyone using Kies motorsports CBC it looks like a better solution

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...rank-bolt-lock

[kwikshift]

When I’m ready to tackle this I leaning towards the EEP CRANK BOLT CAPTURE KIT

[JAI///M3]

Originally Posted by Marioec

Anyone using Kies motorsports CBC it looks like a better solution

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...rank-bolt-lock

I have the Kies plate. It is high quality and also has a hex stub so you can still put a socket on it to turn the hub if you ever need to in the future. This small feature made me pick it over the others out there

FWIW the Kies crank seal guard is also a really high quality piece. I have both in the shop, just waiting to get off my lazy ass and get them installed .

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by Marioec

These vids don't appear to do anything topside -- can anyone comment on the incremental benefit in terms of hand/arm clearance with the fan shroud finagling that is done in the DIY here:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1594892

Is it worth doing this?

Thx

[Marioec]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

These vids don't appear to do anything topside -- can anyone comment on the incremental benefit in terms of hand/arm clearance with the fan shroud finagling that is done in the DIY here:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1594892

Is it worth doing this?

Thx

No, If you want to do it from the top go head and knock your self out . There is a reason why all the DIY in youtube are from the bottom. Is the easiest way to do it.

[Bassmaster]

Originally Posted by Marioec

Anyone using Kies motorsports CBC it looks like a better solution

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...rank-bolt-lock

Plus 1 I agree>

[theweebabySeamus]

Yeah having just done it from the underside I can’t imagine the topside would be easier.

[jfritz27]

Installed the Kies CBC over the weekend using the bare-minimum-from-below method (the vid from Raztech was on point). I was paranoid the balancer was going to shift on me but no issues -- as long as you're not a complete clumsy oaf and whacking the crap out of it it seemed fairly solid. I did get some headless set screws, but I found having them in place (I just used 2) made it more tricky to get the CBC pressed on so just took them back out.

Tried using the boroscope but it was more of a pain than it was worth. Sequential short videos taken from your phone are the way to go to check your progress. I did get an electric ratchet, but the one I got from Amazon was still too fat in the handle area to fit up there.

Definitely be sure that before you start loosening the OEM bolts that all your tools have the proper clearance. It would completely suck to realize that after you've threaded the new bolts with threadlocker that your torque wrench can't fit up there. The small size wrench with a standard hex bit is what you need (if you test it in the beginning it won't seem deep enough, but it is just the right length for when the CBC is installed, since the longer bolts protrude further towards the outer edge of the pulley vs the OEM ones)

[F82.lani]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

CBC is economical protection

You run cbc with the upgraded crankhub? Or one or the other

[TractionControlDelete]

Originally Posted by F82.lani

You run cbc with the upgraded crankhub? Or one or the other

It can be one or the other or both. Just depends on your risk tolerance

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by F82.lani

You run cbc with the upgraded crankhub? Or one or the other

If you do the hub why not put the CBC over top to bulletproof it? I did.

[Graves]

Originally Posted by F82.lani

You run cbc with the upgraded crankhub? Or one or the other

I run both. I love the piece of mind. And I hit the kick down a lot. Zero issues.

[1slo_135i]

Here is my testimony.

I purchased my 2015 DCT M4 with 9400 miles back on March 1st 2021. In the first month we went to stage 2+ tune via MHD.

Fast forward about 5 months (15k miles on motor) we jumped on custom tune e85 and installed VTT capture plate. Car is driven very aggressively. Manual mode 90% of the time and downshifts A LOT. Today we are at 34k miles and will be installing PS2+ turbos. I’m confident we won’t have any issues for many more miles 🔥

Follow my IG:
M4_driven & Detail_driven_

[MineralWhiteF80]

I'm sorry, but I still don't understand how installing a crank bolt capture with the OEM crank hub actually prevents the crank bolt from loosening more than it could without the crank bolt capture. What other new holding force comes into play with the crank bolt capture when the only thing still holding the crank hub parts to crankshaft is the threads on the crank bolt?

The crank bolt capture is essentially joining the crank hub main body, crank bolt, and vibration dampener/pulley into one fixed assembly, just like if you savagely welded the bolt, hub, and pulley together with a MIG welder.

Even as one big fixed assembly, I can still put a socket/ratchet on the crank bolt capture, lock the crankshaft in place, and then loosen the entire fixed hub assembly enough from the snout of the crankshaft past the point where the crank bolt's clamping force is not strong to keep the crank hub/sprockets from spinning independently of the crankshaft.

Are we relying on the extra holding force from the serpentine belts to keep the fixed hub/bolt/pulley/CBC in place? I don't think so since I know belts slip and move around on the drive pulleys a bit during normal driving (especially with a supercharger).

How much is the crank bolt bolt actually backing out for it to lose proper clamping force? It can't be but a small fraction of a turn.

I totally understand installing the crank bolt capture when combined with an aftermarket pinned, keyed, or splined crank hub. With that setup, the crankshaft, crank hub/bolt, and pulley are locked together and you would physically have to break the crank bolt, CBC bolts, or strip the threads out of the crank snout before any movement could happen.

[fivaxis]

It prevents the bolt from backing out even a little. The bolt has to back out before the hub will spin.

[MineralWhiteF80]

Originally Posted by fivaxis

It prevents the bolt from backing out even a little. The bolt has to back out before the hub will spin.

I'm well aware of the claims of what it is supposed to do. Can you elaborate on exactly how? The bolt can still back out with a CBC installed because there is still nothing preventing the crank bolt threads from turning (loosening) inside the crankshaft. Instead of the crank bolt spinning at its own rate, it will just make the crank hub and pully spin along with the bolt at the same amount while still loosening from the crankshaft.