2016 F80 base audio upgrade, the start

[NealfromNZ]

Car went to the local BMW dealer today and I asked them to update the Service history on the new ID6 unit. With the retrofit the service history was for the donne vehicle.

They did struggle a bit with this and called. I mentioned that I read that all they needed to do was was create an entry. The dealer did that and when my partner picked up they apologised as the car only showed the latest history entry.

I checked later that night and full service history was there and assume the rest must have downloaded over the air via the 4g ATM module.

I don’t have “connected services” as not able to get it as car was imported to different country ( UK to NZ) as BMW NZ saying not allowed to do so. But the car is obviously still connected via 4g country roaming for functions like BMW service history.

[NealfromNZ]

Sound treated the trunk. Did the trunk lid a while back which made quite a difference. Also wanted to cover trunk floor and storage area. Without treatment the area has a high resonance when tapped or knocked. Used Dynamat extreme squared which is a new product that comes in flat sheets so it’s not folded over itself. Originally was going to use soundskins which is a three layer product and closer to 4mm thick. But couldn’t get locally. I think if I was in the USA I’d use Resonix.

However, with Dynamat at 2mm think it means carpet and carpet trim will go back into place. I didn’t cover the area where the fuse box and ATM module sits. The panel is quite strong and I wanted the area to look OE so no sound treatment.

I also treated the area around the amplifier location and part of the panels around that area. I decided not to do the fendares. Didn’t want any chance of the roller process distorting those panels.

Played a few tracks with high energy bass and this has improved the low end further with less rattles at high volume. Goytee “ Why Worry” is great for Sub bass / Mid bass. Bass has become tighter.

[NealfromNZ]

Managed to get the ID4 phone (USB2) iphone6 lightening cradle back into the ID6 menu.

Just needed one of the USB parameters coded to SIA

[NealfromNZ]

Thought I’d put together a cost summary of this system in $NZD for a rough guide. Not sure if I could done this cheaper to get the system to current level, but could have certainly spent more on higher end door components. This is my hobby so get enjoyment from putting systems together and tuning.

Retrofit of idrive 6 added cost and gained nothing in sound quality over ID4 , but needed MS teams calling and CarPlay app ecosystem to do this in a safe manner. Best audio results are via usb / cd /dvd inputs over BMWs Most digital audio.

Speakers
2 sets of Focal es100k $1500
MOBRIDGE 8.1.1 amp $2000
Morel 8 inch BMW subs. $1050
Sub Boston Acoustic ( from old system ) $0 But about $700 in 2010
Sub Box / Penn HD speaker carpet, Speakon $150
HK 8 inch speakers and enclosures $240 ( will sell hk 8s)

Sound treatment
Dynamat sound deadening $430

Wiring
Silver tinned speaker cable for new looms $320
4gauge power / fuse holder / lugs $80

Trim
Front HK door trims $190
Rear HK door tweeter brackets $90
HK speaker covers $120

Misc
BMW. Pins and connectors $120
Trim removal tools , crimp and pin tools $140

Coding tools
Bimmercode ( limited use needed BU ) $175
Mhd wifi dongle $190
Bimmer Utility, should have brought instead. $140
Enet cable $40

Idrive 6 / touch screen/ controller. $2000

So roughly $8800 NZD / $5300 usd to build without selling off iD4 unit / screen / hk woofers worth about $2000 on nz market.
Was it worth it ? Hell yes !

So what’s next ? I continue to refine my DSP maps for single and multiseat. At some stage will come back and post refined settings and some RTA graphs.

But also onto next project , a 60s English Mini restomod / cafe racer and associated period looking audio system.

[m4shifter]

Read through the entire thread, amazing work!

Did the road noise cancellation somewhat worked out in the end?

[NealfromNZ]

Originally Posted by m4shifter

Read through the entire thread, amazing work!

Did the road noise cancellation somewhat worked out in the end?

Thank you !

The sound damping did help a bit with road noise. Must go for another drive and measure. But biggest gain was in sub bass. The trunk doesn’t create rattles like it did so cleaned up the audio nicely.

Was also able to reduce bass gain by 3 db and still hit the audio target curve so effectively it’s doubled the power available on the sub bass. The mid bass drivers in the doors can be run to near power limits with no apparent rattles , buzzing or resonances.

I think to cut road noise further would require additional products like Resonix but what is done is a good compromise between good audio without killing off the sound of an M3.