What is the best crank hub solution?

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Yes, the factory crank snout.

[TouringM3]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

VTT SplineLock Crank Hub/CBC holding up on this 800whp beast:

WOW 800WHP without port injection. This definitely debunks my assumption on the various tranches of power available based on fuel systems / types.

Do you have more info on this build? I assume it's running E85?

Thanks!

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by TouringM3

WOW 800WHP without port injection. This definitely debunks my assumption on the various tranches of power available based on fuel systems / types.

Do you have more info on this build? I assume it's running E85?

Thanks!

Yes, both E85 and methanol.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Update for August 2021; over 1000 V2 spline locks sold, zero reported spins. When you want to kill the risk... still the best.

Pick one up and save a few bucks with our flash sale:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1851343

[SflBimmer8484]

We only install the Single piece Insane Performance crank hub. Very high quality and No issues. Highly recommend it in either 2 pin or 4 pin.

Insane hub thread https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1666222

[Wanted_M]

Gents, at the end of the day, anything is better than stock hub. Whether is 2 pin, 4 pin, one piece or spline lock all have performed well. Buy one, get it installed and put your doubts to bed. I did VTT spline hub/CBC done..

[Reddevils7]

this was an interesting point raised when I asked about the spline lock and it's preferential use over a pinned mechanism when dealing with torque transmission. I wonder if it would be possible to remove a spline lock after say 10k miles of hard driving to assess how well the spline teeth hold up.

edit:
picture came out bad but this is what it said

"Yes, we would use a 4 pin hub, although we have hundreds of 2 pin versions on the road. If the crank snout was soft, I could see the VTT solution working well. The problem is the crank is hardened, and I do not think the Vargas hub will actually bite into the crank. I saw some early versions where the hub was removed and the splines were completely flat, and the crank didn't have a mark on it. I would love to install one on a damaged crank that I have here as a test, and then remove it and inspect.

If we did the entire job with you supplying the VTT parts it would be $2690 plus tax. That includes an oil change."

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

When did Mike say that? Is that an old email chain?

The spline lock absolutely bites into the crank snout. The "early version" he's talking about is V1 -and a small batch of V1 at that- that hasn't been for sale now for about 2 years. V2 is super aggressive, leaves quite a bit of evidence, we've posted pics of this.

As to driving and removing; it BITES, you can remove it with our special removal tool and get it back in there just fine, although it seems for most people the question is more academic as it's not like you often remove your hub assembly when, say, detailing the car or rotating tires. Nevertheless, yes, we've had people need an engine rebuild and pull the spline lock, do the engine work, and put 'er back in with zero issues. All part of the design intent.

Still the best option, still the only one out there with zero slips, still the least expensive.

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

When did Mike say that? Is that an old email chain?

The spline lock absolutely bites into the crank snout. The "early version" he's talking about is V1 -and a small batch of V1 at that- that hasn't been for sale now for about 2 years. V2 is super aggressive, leaves quite a bit of evidence, we've posted pics of this.

As to driving and removing; it BITES, you can remove it with our special removal tool and get it back in there just fine, although it seems for most people the question is more academic as it's not like you often remove your hub assembly when, say, detailing the car or rotating tires. Nevertheless, yes, we've had people need an engine rebuild and pull the spline lock, do the engine work, and put 'er back in with zero issues. All part of the design intent.

Still the best option, still the only one out there with zero slips, still the least expensive.

I got that email from him last week. Would you mind posting those pictures you're talking about?

[Tdog86]

Subbed, I would also like to see some pictures of the spline lock bite in the crank side. I'm not trying to say your product is worse or any better but When you company keeps talking about splines verses key are better, the crank is not splined to accept the spline hub, it's pressed and cuts small splines into the crank. For a real spline crank it would need to be broached by a machine and the crank hub would need bigger teeth/splines to match the crank. Splinelock is more of your term of your proprietary design and yes it does have splines, but not the kind that's used in splined shafts and splined recievers. Again I'm not trying to say who is better or worse, I just want to state facts and interested more in VVT product because I'm on the fence about getting your product or another companies .

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

...if you understand both design and machining, the amount of interference is significantly more than required to be classified as a high torque transfer design, broaching is another way to do that but a completely different design (and not what we're after here). Anyway... page 2. Post 30.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1621073

[Tdog86]

Thank you for that post that shows pictures on some insight on how the crank hub will bite in, by the deep grooves in the crank it looks like A promising product.

[puffymom]

I have a question, if installing the crank hub whether is 2 pin, 4 pin, one piece or spline lock.

do we need to purchase the OEM BMW Crankhub installation kit?

[mike@x-ph.com]

I don't know about best but we offer the SSR, VTT, and Insane crank hubs.
We never had a single warranty claim

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by puffymom

I have a question, if installing the crank hub whether is 2 pin, 4 pin, one piece or spline lock.

do we need to purchase the OEM BMW Crankhub installation kit?

Yes but not all of that is needed depending on how your installer does it. If your installer doesn't drop the oil pan, I would highly recommend that you change the oil to remove any shavings if you are drilling the hub.

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by puffymom

I have a question, if installing the crank hub whether is 2 pin, 4 pin, one piece or spline lock.

do we need to purchase the OEM BMW Crankhub installation kit?

Everything minus the water pump gasket , rear main seal and central bolt.

[Rajsingh]

Hi. How are you all doing? Sorry I'm new to this forum. Is there any one in Tampa Florida area that can help me put in a ssr crank hub. Thanks

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by Rajsingh

Hi. How are you all doing? Sorry I'm new to this forum. Is there any one in Tampa Florida area that can help me put in a ssr crank hub. Thanks

We have a dealer in Tampa Tuning dynamics.

https://www.tunedbytd.com

[GreyblackM4]

Reviving an old thread here, I’m deciding between the VTT V2 hub and the SSR 4 pin hub, has anyone had to take out the VTT V2 hub at all? How easy is it with the tool that Vargas provides? Although it’s rare you’ll ever need to take it out, if you do, does anyone know how that crank hub puller tool from Vargas works? Do you need to pull off the entire front end to use the tool?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by GreyblackM4

Reviving an old thread here, I’m deciding between the VTT V2 hub and the SSR 4 pin hub, has anyone had to take out the VTT V2 hub at all? How easy is it with the tool that Vargas provides? Although it’s rare you’ll ever need to take it out, if you do, does anyone know how that crank hub puller tool from Vargas works? Do you need to pull off the entire front end to use the tool?

I don't think we ever had a warranty issue with either brand.

[GreyblackM4]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

I don't think we ever had a warranty issue with either brand.

Thanks Mike, it’s not so much the warranty I’m concerned about. It’s more so the fact that if I ever had to replace my timing chain for whatever reason (not a common issue, I know), I want to know how easy it is to take the VTT hub off. I know the 4 pin one would be very simple, and with the puller tool, I’m more concerned with how it works, does it require the front bumper to come off? That leads to a lot of extra labor.

[Info@mad-us.com]

I'd stick with the pinned if you want a clean removal and reinstall.