IND Red M1/M2 Buttons Install updated

[jailonacs99]

Originally Posted by figure99

Do you notice more of a ridge on the matte M1/M2 buttons, similar to the OEM ones? That's my biggest issue with the gloss IND ones, my finger slips right off of them without any definition.

Can you post some pictures in more light once the M1 button replacement comes in? Thanks!

Drove out to brunch and snapped a couple of quick daylight (cloudy) pics.

There's definitely better ridge definition. The matte coloring and texturing also much more closely matches the OEM gray buttons, so I doesn't concern me at all they're slightly different matte shade than the OEM Red start-stop.

Lighting issue aside, I'm very pleased with them. As long as the lighting gets corrected in my replacement M1 then I'll be a very happy camper and would recommend them.

[paulo_f80m3]

Originally Posted by jailonacs99

Drove out to brunch and snapped a couple of quick daylight (cloudy) pics.

There's definitely better ridge definition. The matte coloring and texturing also much more closely matches the OEM gray buttons, so I doesn't concern me at all they're slightly different matte shade than the OEM Red start-stop.

Lighting issue aside, I'm very pleased with them. As long as the lighting gets corrected in my replacement M1 then I'll be a very happy camper and would recommend them.

Positive: Just installed mine tonight. Love the matte feel. Now it truly looks OEM. Matches well to the factory red start/stop button.

Negative: The M1 button is dim like yours.

[jailonacs99]

Originally Posted by paulo_f80m3

Positive: Just installed mine tonight. Love the matte feel. Now it truly looks OEM. Matches well to the factory red start/stop button.

Negative: The M1 button is dim like yours.

****, that's disheartening. My replacement arrived today, but I haven't had a chance to install.

The problem with the lighting is, in order to test it, we have to unhook the car battery, remove the airbag, unscrew the button assembly (eyes blind or remove the whole wheel), and then reinstall it all to turn the car on.

That's why it's infinitely frustrating when it's not matched properly. I'll try tomorrow, if it's the same problem I'll give IND a call.

Absolute worst case, I'll take a razor blade to it to shave off some of the internal plastic to let more amber shine through. Should I need to do that when I'm shelling out $50 for a tiny piece of plastic? No.

[Ktulu990]

Any update?

[jailonacs99]

Originally Posted by Ktulu990

Any update?

Unfortunately it has the same dimmnes. I think it's actually a consistency in the build of them. Looking inside of the OEM buttons, the plastic behind the M1 and M2 is a thicker backing molded to a thinner cover to allow the light through, whereas the IND buttons are a solid piece.

I'm happy with the overall fit and finish of the button, the matte style looks much, MUCH better against the OEM plastic. I'm just disappointed it doesn't match OEM lighting.

In the end, it's just a piece of plastic, so I'm going to try and correct it. I'm using some different grits of sandpaper on the end of a torx wrench to sand out the plastic inside of the button and allow more light through. If I do too much, it may shine through the red or break the shell. It's hard to test on the wheel because of how much of a pain the assembly/reassembly is. But off the wheel I'm comparing the pass through to the OEM buttons with a flashlight.

When I finally get the lighting right, I'll post new pics. I asked IND to update me if they correct their mold. Besides that though I'm happy with their responsiveness.

This is turning into one of my most time intensive mods

[Ktulu990]

Originally Posted by jailonacs99

Unfortunately it has the same dimmnes. I think it's actually a consistency in the build of them. Looking inside of the OEM buttons, the plastic behind the M1 and M2 is a thicker backing molded to a thinner cover to allow the light through, whereas the IND buttons are a solid piece.

I'm happy with the overall fit and finish of the button, the matte style looks much, MUCH better against the OEM plastic. I'm just disappointed it doesn't match OEM lighting.

In the end, it's just a piece of plastic, so I'm going to try and correct it. I'm using some different grits of sandpaper on the end of a torx wrench to sand out the plastic inside of the button and allow more light through. If I do too much, it may shine through the red or break the shell. It's hard to test on the wheel because of how much of a pain the assembly/reassembly is. But off the wheel I'm comparing the pass through to the OEM buttons with a flashlight.

When I finally get the lighting right, I'll post new pics. I asked IND to update me if they correct their mold. Besides that though I'm happy with their responsiveness.

This is turning into one of my most time intensive mods

awesome! I appreciate the review.

I was thinking maybe a dremel with 180 paper with a light hand.

[jailonacs99]

Very light hand! I don't have a dremel tool but I was contemplating hotgluing some sandpaper onto the end of a Dewalt bit since you need to go in direct. But I would be afraid how quickly it may punch through. I think if I over-sand I can just use a black marker or glue something else into the back to cover up any excess.

[paulo_f80m3]

The matte version do look so much better than the glossy ones and match the OEM start button well but as you can see the M1 button is dim unfortunately. Wondering maybe if iND should test these before shipping them out. It doesn't bother me at the moment but I haven't driven her at night yet. (Put away for the winter.)

[figure99]

Originally Posted by jailonacs99

Unfortunately it has the same dimmnes. I think it's actually a consistency in the build of them. Looking inside of the OEM buttons, the plastic behind the M1 and M2 is a thicker backing molded to a thinner cover to allow the light through, whereas the IND buttons are a solid piece.

I'm happy with the overall fit and finish of the button, the matte style looks much, MUCH better against the OEM plastic. I'm just disappointed it doesn't match OEM lighting.

In the end, it's just a piece of plastic, so I'm going to try and correct it. I'm using some different grits of sandpaper on the end of a torx wrench to sand out the plastic inside of the button and allow more light through. If I do too much, it may shine through the red or break the shell. It's hard to test on the wheel because of how much of a pain the assembly/reassembly is. But off the wheel I'm comparing the pass through to the OEM buttons with a flashlight.

When I finally get the lighting right, I'll post new pics. I asked IND to update me if they correct their mold. Besides that though I'm happy with their responsiveness.

This is turning into one of my most time intensive mods

Yes please post after you've had a chance to work on them. Agreed it's frustrating you have to 'fix' a $50 piece of plastic from a reputable vendor like IND... hopefully they can fix the issue before the next production run. I'd love to pick these up in the spring, and since I spent $50 on the gloss ones last year (which also have a lighting issue) it's like getting kicked twice. Knowing my OCD, I'll probably get them anyway... perhaps I could 3D print a custom tool depending on your success. Damn my OCD!

[White340]

Any update on this? Did the sanding help?

[jailonacs99]

It did; sorry, still haven't taken a pic and I'll need to take it off to keep sanding.

I'll post a pic soon. My original sanding was a bit uneven, so the bottom of the M1 is slightly darker than the top 3/4. But on the whole I've almost gotten the thickness to match the M2. Even uneven it bothers me less than when it was super dark.

Bottom line, these can be fixed to properly match. And the matte color and texture is SO much better than the shiny. Looks OEM.

[domino_z]

any pics of the blue button trio with the m perf v2 wheel

imo it's the best way to make that blue 12 o'clock strip make sense in an interior with no other blue

[White340]

Thanks.

I have a alpine white with sakhir orange M3 and not sure if I should get the red or blue buttons. The red matches the leather of course but there is a chance I get the v2 steering wheel in the future so it will probably look odd with red buttons and a blue stripe.

[yjypm]

Originally Posted by White340

Thanks.

I have a alpine white with sakhir orange M3 and not sure if I should get the red or blue buttons. The red matches the leather of course but there is a chance I get the v2 steering wheel in the future so it will probably look odd with red buttons and a blue stripe.

Wrap the stripe red!

[Markitech_F87]

Thank HKMP7, but how do you remove the airbag from the steering wheel to get started?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Markhershman

Thank HKMP7, but how do you remove the airbag from the steering wheel to get started?

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1493828

[Markitech_F87]

Thank HKMP7 and all, but how do you remove the airbag from the steering wheel to get started?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Markhershman

Thank HKMP7 and all, but how do you remove the airbag from the steering wheel to get started?

YouTube is your friend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78EyvkeKEto

[Markitech_F87]

Thank HKMP7, but how do you remove the airbag from the steering wheel to get started?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Markhershman

Thank HKMP7, but how do you remove the airbag from the steering wheel to get started?

Did you watch the video I just linked? There are holes under the hub at 4:00 & 8:00 you insert a screwdriver into. Disconnect the battery first.

[White340]

The spring is not so easy to push to release the air bag. I used a flat head screwdriver which was my first mistake. It is hard to get the flat head to push up against a curved pun.

Instead use a small torx screwdriver which has a flat surface at the end. second, don't push it in straight as the pin is a bit closer to the top of the airbag than it is centered with the hole.

[HKMP7]

Originally Posted by White340

The spring is not so easy to push to release the air bag. I used a flat head screwdriver which was my first mistake. It is hard to get the flat head to push up against a curved pun.

Instead use a small torx screwdriver which has a flat surface at the end. second, don't push it in straight as the pin is a bit closer to the top of the airbag than it is centered with the hole.

Yes this is correct info.
I also used a torx bit and it worked no problem.