Dinantronics Removal

pesh · 04-11-2023, 08:15 AM

I just removed my Dinantronics piggyback ECU, as part of a plan to upgrade to the Dinan Stage 1 ECU Software Flash.

The removal started out straight-forward until I got to trying to disconnect the harness from DME (under Intercooler) somewhat blind. So, I thought removing the Intercooler would make things easier. After watching numerous videos, I attempted the Intercooler removal, but was unsuccessful. I was able to disconnect the MAP sensor, two charge pipes on left, get off the rubber mount, disconnect some all-other hoses (except the fluid bank). A tiny bit of fluid dripped out of one of the front-side hoses. Where I got stuck was trying to disconnect the intercooler from the right-side downward pipe. I tried and tried, but could not get it disconnected, so I gave up on the approach.

Finally, I was able to get the piggyback ECU disconnected and the factory cables reconnected to the DME, the Intercooler reconnected, and everything buttoned up. I went to start the car and all kinds of errors ensued. Further troubleshooting allowed me to determine I had flip-flopped two of the three DME cables. During this second try, I ended up losing one of the two screws (down into the engine bay) responsible for holding in the Intercooler MAP sensor. After correcting the cable issue and reconnecting the MAP sensor (with its O-ring) and the one screw, I cleared the old fault codes, and the car started back up. I thought I could declare victory! After letting the car run idling for a few minutes without any issues, I decided to take a test drive around my neighborhood and ventured farther and farther out. No issues.

Once I returned home, I decided to check codes again and there were three (3) Engine Codes : 12A902, 12BD54, and 118101. So, I cleared those codes and decided to let the car cool down. After 10 – 15 minutes, I decided to start the car again. This time while idling the car was not happy. The engine did not sound right, like an oxygen issue, so I rescanned, and the engine codes did not return but a new Permanent Code returned : P2240 – O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit/Open Bank 2 Sensor 1.

I’m puzzled by why so many issues and what I can do to get my car back to error-free stable state.

Thanks in advance for any tips and guidance.

TopJimmy · 04-11-2023, 08:41 AM

I hate to say it but plugging in the DME connectors in the wrong order can fry things. It may be one of your electronic modules down the line or it could be the DME itself. You’ll need ISTA to check what else it can “see” going on. Hopefully it’s just a module replacement and not a DME. 🙏

BTW the TMIC to J-pipe coupler is classic for getting stuck. You need to get a mechanics pick and work it around the rubber where the TMIC flange goes in. Then you can get the TMIC off.

Hopefully the lost screw is sitting on your belly pan. That’s where most bits wind up.

pesh · 04-11-2023, 10:50 AM

@TopJimmy, is there any hope that its not that bad since i figured out the mis-configuration and the car wouldnt "start"? After correcting the wiring, things worked like a champ to begin?

Can you send a picture or amazon link to the mechanics pick you are referencing?

Blocke · 04-12-2023, 01:22 PM

I had a similar issue when I removed the DINAN unit on my 335i before I traded it in. Turns out one of the DME connectors was not fully seated and “latched” by the little lever that closes on the connector. Car started, but threw all kinds of errors. Needless to say I was shitting my pants, as I was due to turn the car in to the dealer that morning.

Long story short, make sure all the connections are seated and clipped in solid. Car will start, but without solid connection errors will be flying

TopJimmy · 04-12-2023, 07:05 PM

Like Blocke said, check your connections.

Here’s a cheap pick set:
https://a.co/d/8z41H2I

pesh · 04-13-2023, 09:08 AM

Thanks Blocke and TopJimmy, I've double and triple checked the connectors. They all seem very tightly connected with the latching mechanism engaged.

I took it to the Dinan Dealer that is supposed to be doing my S1 SW Upgrade and had their tech look everything over. They used a very high-end ODB scanner (BMW dealership-grade) and it seems that one code keeps registering... O2 Sensor related to the heating circuit. They cannot upgrade me to S1 SW until this code is addressed.

I'm a bit skeptical that the O2 sensor is the issue. They are quoting me nearly $1500 to replace the sensor but have admitted the cannot guarantee that is the issue.

04-11-2023, 08:15 AM	#1
pesh First Lieutenant 122 Rep 303 Posts Drives: 2024 Black M4 Convertible Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Austin, TX iTrader: (0) Garage List 2015 BMW M4 Convert ... [0.00]	Dinantronics Removal - Engine Issues I just removed my Dinantronics piggyback ECU, as part of a plan to upgrade to the Dinan Stage 1 ECU Software Flash. The removal started out straight-forward until I got to trying to disconnect the harness from DME (under Intercooler) somewhat blind. So, I thought removing the Intercooler would make things easier. After watching numerous videos, I attempted the Intercooler removal, but was unsuccessful. I was able to disconnect the MAP sensor, two charge pipes on left, get off the rubber mount, disconnect some all-other hoses (except the fluid bank). A tiny bit of fluid dripped out of one of the front-side hoses. Where I got stuck was trying to disconnect the intercooler from the right-side downward pipe. I tried and tried, but could not get it disconnected, so I gave up on the approach. Finally, I was able to get the piggyback ECU disconnected and the factory cables reconnected to the DME, the Intercooler reconnected, and everything buttoned up. I went to start the car and all kinds of errors ensued. Further troubleshooting allowed me to determine I had flip-flopped two of the three DME cables. During this second try, I ended up losing one of the two screws (down into the engine bay) responsible for holding in the Intercooler MAP sensor. After correcting the cable issue and reconnecting the MAP sensor (with its O-ring) and the one screw, I cleared the old fault codes, and the car started back up. I thought I could declare victory! After letting the car run idling for a few minutes without any issues, I decided to take a test drive around my neighborhood and ventured farther and farther out. No issues. Once I returned home, I decided to check codes again and there were three (3) Engine Codes : 12A902, 12BD54, and 118101. So, I cleared those codes and decided to let the car cool down. After 10 – 15 minutes, I decided to start the car again. This time while idling the car was not happy. The engine did not sound right, like an oxygen issue, so I rescanned, and the engine codes did not return but a new Permanent Code returned : P2240 – O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit/Open Bank 2 Sensor 1. I’m puzzled by why so many issues and what I can do to get my car back to error-free stable state. Thanks in advance for any tips and guidance.
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04-11-2023, 08:41 AM	#2
TopJimmy Major General 5462 Rep 5,154 Posts Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Chester County, PA iTrader: (5)	I hate to say it but plugging in the DME connectors in the wrong order can fry things. It may be one of your electronic modules down the line or it could be the DME itself. You’ll need ISTA to check what else it can “see” going on. Hopefully it’s just a module replacement and not a DME. 🙏 BTW the TMIC to J-pipe coupler is classic for getting stuck. You need to get a mechanics pick and work it around the rubber where the TMIC flange goes in. Then you can get the TMIC off. Hopefully the lost screw is sitting on your belly pan. That’s where most bits wind up. __________________ '18 F80 Base 6MT \| '19 F82 Exec DCT \| '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT \| '23 G80cx
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04-11-2023, 10:50 AM	#3
pesh First Lieutenant 122 Rep 303 Posts Drives: 2024 Black M4 Convertible Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Austin, TX iTrader: (0) Garage List 2015 BMW M4 Convert ... [0.00]	@TopJimmy, is there any hope that its not that bad since i figured out the mis-configuration and the car wouldnt "start"? After correcting the wiring, things worked like a champ to begin? Can you send a picture or amazon link to the mechanics pick you are referencing?
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04-12-2023, 01:22 PM	#4
Blocke First Lieutenant 317 Rep 352 Posts Drives: 2015 AY M3 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Temecula, Ca iTrader: (0)	I had a similar issue when I removed the DINAN unit on my 335i before I traded it in. Turns out one of the DME connectors was not fully seated and “latched” by the little lever that closes on the connector. Car started, but threw all kinds of errors. Needless to say I was shitting my pants, as I was due to turn the car in to the dealer that morning. Long story short, make sure all the connections are seated and clipped in solid. Car will start, but without solid connection errors will be flying
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04-12-2023, 07:05 PM	#5
TopJimmy Major General 5462 Rep 5,154 Posts Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Chester County, PA iTrader: (5)	Like Blocke said, check your connections. Here’s a cheap pick set: https://a.co/d/8z41H2I __________________ '18 F80 Base 6MT \| '19 F82 Exec DCT \| '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT \| '23 G80cx
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04-13-2023, 09:08 AM	#6
pesh First Lieutenant 122 Rep 303 Posts Drives: 2024 Black M4 Convertible Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Austin, TX iTrader: (0) Garage List 2015 BMW M4 Convert ... [0.00]	Thanks Blocke and TopJimmy, I've double and triple checked the connectors. They all seem very tightly connected with the latching mechanism engaged. I took it to the Dinan Dealer that is supposed to be doing my S1 SW Upgrade and had their tech look everything over. They used a very high-end ODB scanner (BMW dealership-grade) and it seems that one code keeps registering... O2 Sensor related to the heating circuit. They cannot upgrade me to S1 SW until this code is addressed. I'm a bit skeptical that the O2 sensor is the issue. They are quoting me nearly $1500 to replace the sensor but have admitted the cannot guarantee that is the issue.
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