10-26-2020, 10:55 PM | #1 |
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Anyone DIY install camber plates on stock suspension?
I'm planning to get camber plates for my F80 ZCP stock suspension. All the videos I've seen for installation were with lowered cars so the springs were shorter and they didn't need to use a spring compressor. Has anyone done the install on a stock suspension? Were you able to fit the spring compressor in there? It looks tight. Any tips for install specific to getting the stock strut assembly out?
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10-27-2020, 06:21 AM | #2 | |
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Tommy l garage also has a video removing his stock suspension and replacing with HAS kit. |
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10-27-2020, 01:36 PM | #3 |
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10-27-2020, 02:31 PM | #4 |
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Thanks guys! I hadn't seen that specific video. So to make sure I understand correctly... on stock suspension, I should be able to disconnect the end link and lower the strut assembly enough to get the new camber plate in place, then jack the strut assembly back up to get it through the plate? I shouldn't need to disconnect other key suspension components such as a sway bar?
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10-27-2020, 04:08 PM | #5 | |
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10-27-2020, 05:48 PM | #6 |
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10-27-2020, 06:07 PM | #7 |
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No worries man! I actually just pulled suspension down to pull off the camber plate and clean them up and get everything lubricated. It's pretty cruiser work, but holler if you run into any problems.
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10-27-2020, 09:58 PM | #8 |
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Appreciate it! I'm curious which camber plates you have and whether you'd recommend them. I didn't realize they needed maintenance/ lubrication occasionally. I only do a handful of track days per year but my front tire outer edges are getting torn up so I feel I should invest in some plates.
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10-27-2020, 10:16 PM | #9 | |
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Once a year, I'll remove them and take it completely apart to clean it up and use high temp grease in the needle bearing and various parts. I'll post a video up of it sometime soon. Good to remember the race parts need a little maintenance! The street version is likely less susceptible to NVH but again everything works better taken care of. Edit: forgot. Yes I love the GC plates.
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10-27-2020, 10:19 PM | #10 |
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Adding a picture for reference. You don't have to pull the the damper from the knuckle like I did, but this gives you an idea. When you remove the top bolt the entire suspension easily drops and tension comes off the spring. Also if you notice bottom right in this picture there is a yellow plastic piece that covers the ball bearings for ground control plate. These get dirt in them and get gritty.
I went with vorshlag camber plates. Their version is sealed, but you don't get caster adjustment with these. |
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10-28-2020, 07:24 PM | #11 |
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Thank you both! I was planning to go with the ground control sport/street plates.
richf80, did you switch from GC to Vorshlag? I don't really need caster adjustment and plan to go with -2.5 camber. |
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10-28-2020, 08:14 PM | #12 |
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There's a little white square sensor on the damper. It's called the Vertical Acceleration Sensor. Be extra careful not to bump it because you might get a drivetrain error and no damper selections.
Damper work is just as easy as seen in the video. Watch out when jacking the brake rotor that you don't squash the thin metal stone guard just behind it.
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10-28-2020, 08:41 PM | #13 | |
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10-28-2020, 11:09 PM | #14 |
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Yes I did. GC were a noisier and occasional clunk noise. No other complaints about them though. I heard good things about Vorshlag so I made the switch. So far they are quiet.
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10-29-2020, 01:50 PM | #15 | |
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Do you happen to have a pic of how it looks from above? Are there sufficient threads holding it in? Their m235 install pics seem like its barely holding in place, versus the GC where the bolt still extends past the top of the nut. Last edited by IVM3; 10-29-2020 at 01:57 PM.. |
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10-29-2020, 03:13 PM | #16 | ||
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10-29-2020, 04:42 PM | #18 |
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Rich, do you know what the range of adjustment is on the Vorschlags? I'm trying to figure out if, combined with a modest drop, these would accommodate a working range from low -2 to low -3 (for street vs track, with on-the-fly switching) without running into issues with the bolts clearing the strut brace.
With the GC's, with that range you often have to flip the bolts, which is annoying. Thx |
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10-29-2020, 05:06 PM | #19 | |
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Note that moving camber affects toe in these cars. I run -3 camber on street with no issues. |
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10-29-2020, 07:06 PM | #20 |
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Awesome, thanks, that's great to hear. Yeah, I would toe-in or zero it in the less aggressive street position, with expected toe-out at the more negative setting
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10-29-2020, 10:18 PM | #21 |
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Thanks so much! I really appreciate you sharing your experiences. I'll be honest - hearing that it did loosen once and seeing those pics has me leaning towards ground control. I worry that I won't keep a close enough eye on them in case they do loosen.
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12-18-2020, 11:05 AM | #22 |
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Vorshlage Camber Plates
I am about to put Vorshlage Plates on my 18 M2, and was watching Vorshlages' video on their web-site. They say to always use an Impact Gun while tightening the top mounting nut, as it is the only way to tighten it and prevent the failure of the bearing. All Shock manufacturers state never use an impact gun, and only use an open ratchet wrench with another socket to go thru that socket and hold Shock stem from spinning. They say using impact gun will destroy shock seals. Having never done this yet,what is your experience?
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