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      10-29-2020, 12:25 PM   #573
YNWACY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YNWACY View Post
Will do, mechanic will pressure test the system today.
All ok now!

Seems like mechanic may not have bled it properly the 1st time.

Been giving the car a hard time over the last 3 weeks or so and checking coolant labels daily.

No loss at all!
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      10-29-2020, 12:58 PM   #574
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I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?
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      10-29-2020, 04:43 PM   #575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icebiker View Post
I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?
Take the charge pipe off and see if you can see any residue in there.
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      10-29-2020, 06:46 PM   #576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icebiker View Post
I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?
They probably did the bleed procedure once. It needs to be done about 3 times to get all bubbles out, or just drive and top off. You are good as long as the level stays.
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      10-31-2020, 01:05 AM   #577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by icebiker View Post
I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?
They probably did the bleed procedure once. It needs to be done about 3 times to get all bubbles out, or just drive and top off. You are good as long as the level stays.
after reading this (2016 m3 dct 31xxx miles) I looked in my resivior and fluid was right in the middle. not sure if it came topped off or not but i added some fluid to top it off. took off the top charge pipes to check with flash light and scoop camera pipes and inside of tmic looks so clean no residue, staning, nothing dont think a 50 50 mix will evaporate in a closed system but will keep an eye on it now that the op has me worried
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      11-04-2020, 04:31 PM   #578
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See this video

Thanks! I suspect the whole valve cover has to be replaced as the PCV is welded onto it, right.
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      11-04-2020, 11:03 PM   #579
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Thanks! I suspect the whole valve cover has to be replaced as the PCV is welded onto it, right.
Yes, that's what I did.
Paid $533 for the valve cover from the BMW dealership. I replaced it myself. with the right tools, you can get it done in 4-5 hours.
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      11-08-2020, 06:38 PM   #580
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Fuck.

Time to figure out what I'm going to replace it with.
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      11-09-2020, 07:44 PM   #581
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Following up on my prior posts. Since my July service 2,300 miles ago, at which IC and Radiator tanks were tested and topped off to mid-point, a) IC tank was at min level (so, a slight drop) and radiator tank was just below min level (so, a bit more drop than IC tank). Both tanks were pressure tested for an extended period of time (over an hour) and had no issues (see readings attached). Charge pipe was removed and IC was scoped. No residue In the pipes and the IC fins were fine. No radiator leaks or foreign matter either. Car is behaving just fine.

Best guess from dealer was potentially that after last service there may have been air in the system (insufficient bleed) that eventually resolved and the level dropped slightly. Does that seem plausible?

Also, radiator tank level (engine cold) after this latest service is just above max. Should I remove some of the fluid to bring it to mid-point?
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      11-09-2020, 11:06 PM   #582
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Mine looks like this when I open the reservoir when the engine is running at idle:



I’m guessing this means my intercooler has a leak in it and I need to replace it. Can anyone confirm? The level was low, had a fault for dry running charge pump but no CEL. Observed the bubbles after topping it back up, then driving with boost a bit.
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      11-09-2020, 11:25 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Lavigne View Post
Mine looks like this when I open the reservoir when the engine is running at idle:



Iím guessing this means my intercooler has a leak in it and I need to replace it. Can anyone confirm? The level was low, had a fault for dry running charge pump but no CEL. Observed the bubbles after topping it back up, then driving with boost a bit.
More than likely a leak but bubbles will be normal during bleeding process. Run a bleed cycle and keep an eye on it.

Only way to tell would be to scope the cooler and look for leaking, residue or removing intake manifold and look for buildup. Spark plugs could also be an indicator.
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      11-10-2020, 12:11 AM   #584
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Steve,

Just run the purge cycle twice in a row, topping up during and after each cycle.

Top up your big res too, and then go drive in Sp+ until the car is warmed up. Now do two good highway pulls. Go park and let the car cool overnight. Neither res should be below low. Next morning check both reservoirs and top up to the top of the yellow "toilet tank" indicator.

Now you're good. If you do a warmup and the two highway pulls again, after cool down you should show perfectly full. If not then start looking for leaks or residue.

-TJ
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      11-10-2020, 08:56 AM   #585
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Thank you for the tips Bzs and TJ!
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      11-22-2020, 01:03 AM   #586
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Here's an update to the OP's car. Almost two years later the replacement charge air cooler failed again. The car is at 42k miles and on its second charge air cooler.

Codes found via MHD include:
108C01- Charge air temperature, plausibility:temperature too high
120408- Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
20A201- Charge air, cooling system: Dry-run detected
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      11-22-2020, 01:32 AM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz View Post
Here's an update to the OP's car. Almost two years later the replacement charge air cooler failed again. The car is at 42k miles and on its second charge air cooler.

Codes found via MHD include:
108C01- Charge air temperature, plausibility:temperature too high
120408- Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
20A201- Charge air, cooling system: Dry-run detected
So, apparently, thee charge cooler is a 20k mile service item. Ugh!
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      11-22-2020, 02:27 AM   #588
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So, apparently, thee charge cooler is a 20k mile service item. Ugh!
hope not - I'm coming up to that number now!!
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