15' M4 6MT - Clutch Going Out

[gosutony]

Has anyone here replaced their clutch on their 6MT yet? I'm starting to get a high engagement bite point. It seems to be okay once the car is cold but once it warms up, the problem is definitely significant. Seems like the clutch is about to go out as the issue is relevant on 1st and reverse gears. There is a lot of car shutter as I find myself revving just so the car wont stall.

Side note: I may do stage 2 turbos down the road, currently only on stage 1 tune but will transition to stage 2 once my downpipes get installed.

[Djdnav]

I did mine, what is it you want to know?

[gosutony]

Originally Posted by Djdnav

I did mine, what is it you want to know?

Did you stick with OEM or did you end upgrading to a completely different clutch kit? Seeing how I need to replace it, wasnt sure if it was worthwhile to get something else other than OEM

[Djdnav]

Whether to use a stock replacement is entirely up to your power goals and driving style. I went with the Clutchmasters fx-360 and their single mass flywheel. Many aftermarket options require a single mass flywheel, so consider that when you form your plan. Not to mention, there's a chance your clutch issues are partially tied to a damaged/worn dual mass flywheel. Mine had a LOT of play in it.

[jpy1980]

Originally Posted by Djdnav

Whether to use a stock replacement is entirely up to your power goals and driving style. I went with the Clutchmasters fx-360 and their single mass flywheel. Many aftermarket options require a single mass flywheel, so consider that when you form your plan. Not to mention, there's a chance your clutch issues are partially tied to a damaged/worn dual mass flywheel. Mine had a LOT of play in it.

couple of questions!

What were the symptoms of your clutch going out?

Also, what was the main difference when you changed to the clutch masters fx360 and the SMF? Is the car harder to drive now?

[Djdnav]

The main symptom was at the top of the torque curve, the clutch would slip, and it would smell like burnt clutch. Then the smell started happening during normal driving, and the torque required for the clutch to slip continually decreased.

The main thing that will make a clutch setup more difficult to drive is if the clutch is unsprung, is not full-faced, or uses multiple disks. The fx360 is a sort of hybrid because it’s a full faced disk, but it has raised friction surfaces. It’s more grabby than the stock clutch, but it’s nothing like a 6-puck that is annoying to drive in traffic. Also, lighter weight flywheels make a bit of noise at idle, but it’s not unreasonable.

The original plan was to go with a spec twin for power reasons, but after talking to someone with an 800hp setup with this kit, I decided on this one. Twin disk clutches are great at grabbing, but they can be a chore for a daily driver.

A few months after doing the job, the clutch pedal action degraded, and I got some chatter at low speed. I replaced the slave cylinder, added a clutch stop, and removed the CDV, which made things better, but not perfect. Then I replaced the clutch master cylinder, and it fixed the issue. So consider that you problem might be more than one individual component. From what I’ve seen on this car, clutch master/slave cylinders are more of a wear time than on other cars, and it’s not a bad idea to replace both at the same time.