Correct** S55 M3 M4 tool/socket Spark Plug DIY

[bmwmike335]

Hi everyone, when I wrote this out I didn't mean for it to be long but sharing my story and hope to avoid someone else going through the 10 hour headache I did earlier this week changing Spark Plugs on a S55.

I got my CTS Turbo charge pipes about 2 weeks and finally had time install them a few days ago. I figured since I’m going to be getting somewhat deep towards the engine passed the carbon strut brace I might as well do the spark plugs as well and gap the new ones properly in anticipation of a tune.
I’ve done spark plugs on my 5 series, it was easy and actually very relaxing as I took my time and just enjoyed working under the hood of a car instead of sticking on carbon fiber pieces with double sided tape =)

Anyways, the NGK plugs weren't available until Wednesday so I figured Tuesday I would open her up get her ready so Wednesday all I’d have to do is install the plugs and charge pipes and be all done!

Well Wednesday came around and I’m getting ready to remove the old plugs using what EVERYONE else was describing as a “thin wall 14mm 12 point” Socket.

I began to turn the wrench to unscrew the spark plug. I kept turning and turning and nothing was happening. I realized theres no way it would take this long to unscrew a spark plug. i took out the socket and noticed what appeared to be scratch marks around the bottom end of the socket. SO i began to wonder what the socket was grinding on that caused a piece of alloy to have such scratch/scuff marks. I tried another spark plug but it was the same thing.



I watched all the videos from the usual S55 guys on youtube, went through the DIY forums on here and was confused as to why the FK this socket wasn’t able to remove the plugs.

since BMW did not design a 100% straight shot to the plug I went to autozone and got an elbow attachment and another smaller size socket just in case….i was now starting to think irrationally lol.

Anyways, i tried that, DID NOT work. I drove down to Home Depot and stared at the wall of sockets and purchased a different brand 14MM 12 point socket, and a 13 as well. Went home…DID NOT work.


I went to remove the socket and was about to give up and call my friend who owns a BMW shop when the socket got STUCK onto the spark plug. So now I have a socket stuck deep in there, NOT coming out. I tried tightening it and loosening it, still no budge. I tapped it gently with a screwdriver and rubber mallet, No budge. I refused to spray WD40 or whatever else i read on the forums.

I gave it a 15 minute break, came back pissed off tried again and finally got the socket OUT.

Called my buddy, who told me i have the wrong socket and its a special GERMAN BMW tool. I went to his shop and picked it up. Brought it home and of course, it fkn worked.


SOCKET DIFFERENCE:
Looking and comparing both sockets, the BMW specific one is INCREDIBLY thin walled. The HEX socket i used for the 5 series was the same thickness (or thinness) as the ones i purchased from autzone and home depot, however, i guess the M engineers designed that area so freaking tight and compressed that your standard “thin wall” or “spark plug socket” will NOT work.



I have attached photos of the one you guys need. I took the time to post this incase anyone else decides to DIY their spark plugs on the S55, i don’t want you guys getting fooled like I did by the videos. You really need this unique super thin socket otherwise you'll just risk turning the socket in there and damaging stuff or getting it stuck like mine did. Or wasting your time to no avail.

Lesson learned: dont rush a project and purchase the specific stuff you need prior for these delicate little M specific motors. Amazon actually sells this socket its 8 bucks, but it cost me 10 hours, 4 trips, and $30+ in sockets and adaptors.

Otherwise, I gapped these things at .020 and compared to the stock gap from the factory its noticeably different. Put like 200+ miles on them already and i can tell a difference in acceleration. Keep in mind i was running original spark plugs with 41K miles and track days on them. I'm sure what im noticing is the plugs gapped at .02 and NOT the charge pipes as some think.

Shout out to CTS Turbo for designing a very well fit Charge Pipe that sits and connects very well. But also you guys need to push your CTS LOGO back closer to the meth plug because the clamps cover up half of it haha.

Hope this saved at least one person from the silly headache i had, probably for just be careless or assuming a regular spark plug socket would work.

You can see in the 2nd photo the grind marks on the socket.

PICS 1 - 3 WRONG socket
PIC 4 - RIGHT socket

[bmwmike335]

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Spark-Soc...7316085&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/ATLIN-Socket-...7316140&sr=8-3

[weytie]

I purchased a socket from alixpress for $8 and worked flawlessly
It even has a magnet so it prevents the plug from falling out.

[IVM3]

Thanks for sharing! Now you've got me worried. Does anyone have experience using the CTA 7654 thin wall socket from fcpeuro? It looks in between the two versions you shared in terms of thickness.

Also, for clarity, can you specify which one of the two Amazon links you sent was the one that actually worked?

[bmwmike335]

Originally Posted by IVM3

Thanks for sharing! Now you've got me worried. Does anyone have experience using the CTA 7654 thin wall socket from fcpeuro? It looks in between the two versions you shared in terms of thickness.

Also, for clarity, can you specify which one of the two Amazon links you sent was the one that actually worked?

The first one is the one that my buddy uses at his bmw shop and the one I borrowed that worked for me.

The second one also should work as well. It appears to be the same one and was used by another M4 owner in a DIY video on YouTube.

If whatever you have worked for you then perhaps you have the right one?

[pattymtb]

Originally Posted by IVM3

Thanks for sharing! Now you've got me worried. Does anyone have experience using the CTA 7654 thin wall socket from fcpeuro? It looks in between the two versions you shared in terms of thickness.

Also, for clarity, can you specify which one of the two Amazon links you sent was the one that actually worked?

I ordered that socket and will be trying it out later this week I will keep you posted.

EDIT: I lied I order the CTA Tools #2376 socket sorry.

[pattymtb]

Originally Posted by bmwmike335

Hi everyone, when I wrote this out I didn't mean for it to be long but sharing my story and hope to avoid someone else going through the 10 hour headache I did earlier this week changing Spark Plugs on a S55.

I got my CTS Turbo charge pipes about 2 weeks and finally had time install them a few days ago. I figured since I'm going to be getting somewhat deep towards the engine passed the carbon strut brace I might as well do the spark plugs as well and gap the new ones properly in anticipation of a tune.
I've done spark plugs on my 5 series, it was easy and actually very relaxing as I took my time and just enjoyed working under the hood of a car instead of sticking on carbon fiber pieces with double sided tape =)

Anyways, the NGK plugs weren't available until Wednesday so I figured Tuesday I would open her up get her ready so Wednesday all I'd have to do is install the plugs and charge pipes and be all done!

Well Wednesday came around and I'm getting ready to remove the old plugs using what EVERYONE else was describing as a "thin wall 14mm 12 point" Socket.

I began to turn the wrench to unscrew the spark plug. I kept turning and turning and nothing was happening. I realized theres no way it would take this long to unscrew a spark plug. i took out the socket and noticed what appeared to be scratch marks around the bottom end of the socket. SO i began to wonder what the socket was grinding on that caused a piece of alloy to have such scratch/scuff marks. I tried another spark plug but it was the same thing.



I watched all the videos from the usual S55 guys on youtube, went through the DIY forums on here and was confused as to why the FK this socket wasn't able to remove the plugs.

since BMW did not design a 100% straight shot to the plug I went to autozone and got an elbow attachment and another smaller size socket just in case….i was now starting to think irrationally lol.

Anyways, i tried that, DID NOT work. I drove down to Home Depot and stared at the wall of sockets and purchased a different brand 14MM 12 point socket, and a 13 as well. Went home…DID NOT work.


I went to remove the socket and was about to give up and call my friend who owns a BMW shop when the socket got STUCK onto the spark plug. So now I have a socket stuck deep in there, NOT coming out. I tried tightening it and loosening it, still no budge. I tapped it gently with a screwdriver and rubber mallet, No budge. I refused to spray WD40 or whatever else i read on the forums.

I gave it a 15 minute break, came back pissed off tried again and finally got the socket OUT.

Called my buddy, who told me i have the wrong socket and its a special GERMAN BMW tool. I went to his shop and picked it up. Brought it home and of course, it fkn worked.


[SIZE="5"]SOCKET DIFFERENCE:[/SIZE]
Looking and comparing both sockets, the BMW specific one is INCREDIBLY thin walled. The HEX socket i used for the 5 series was the same thickness (or thinness) as the ones i purchased from autzone and home depot, however, i guess the M engineers designed that area so freaking tight and compressed that your standard "thin wall" or "spark plug socket" will NOT work.



I have attached photos of the one you guys need. I took the time to post this incase anyone else decides to DIY their spark plugs on the S55, i don't want you guys getting fooled like I did by the videos. You really need this unique super thin socket otherwise you'll just risk turning the socket in there and damaging stuff or getting it stuck like mine did. Or wasting your time to no avail.

Lesson learned: dont rush a project and purchase the specific stuff you need prior for these delicate little M specific motors. Amazon actually sells this socket its 8 bucks, but it cost me 10 hours, 4 trips, and $30+ in sockets and adaptors.

Otherwise, I gapped these things at .020 and compared to the stock gap from the factory its noticeably different. Put like 200+ miles on them already and i can tell a difference in acceleration. Keep in mind i was running original spark plugs with 41K miles and track days on them. I'm sure what im noticing is the plugs gapped at .02 and NOT the charge pipes as some think.

Shout out to CTS Turbo for designing a very well fit Charge Pipe that sits and connects very well. But also you guys need to push your CTS LOGO back closer to the meth plug because the clamps cover up half of it haha.

Hope this saved at least one person from the silly headache i had, probably for just be careless or assuming a regular spark plug socket would work.

You can see in the 2nd photo the grind marks on the socket.

PICS 1 - 3 WRONG socket
PIC 4 - RIGHT socket

I just ordered the CTS chargepipes and downpipes, is that a custom finish in the chargepipes? Looks beautiful!

[bmwmike335]

Originally Posted by tonino1

I just ordered the CTS chargepipes and downpipes, is that a custom finish in the chargepipes? Looks beautiful!

Thanks! Haha I used a high heat paint and painted them myself the aluminum/ steel color to match the charge air cooler they connect into. Two spray coats the day before install did the trick

[pattymtb]

Originally Posted by bmwmike335

Thanks! Haha I used a high heat paint and painted them myself the aluminum/ steel color to match the charge air cooler they connect into. Two spray coats the day before install did the trick

Looks great!

[IVM3]

Originally Posted by tonino1

I ordered that socket and will be trying it out later this week I will keep you posted.

EDIT: I lied I order the CTA Tools #2376 socket sorry.

Thanks for double checking! Can you let me know if it works? I wonder if the CTA 7654 is the exact same tool, but just with a built in swivel. If it works, would you mind sharing some detailed pics of the socket for comparison? It's hard for me to tell with the online pics I found. Good luck!

[pattymtb]

Originally Posted by IVM3

Thanks for double checking! Can you let me know if it works? I wonder if the CTA 7654 is the exact same tool, but just with a built in swivel. If it works, would you mind sharing some detailed pics of the socket for comparison? It's hard for me to tell with the online pics I found. Good luck!

Yeah for sure, I'd say going by the pictures it looks like they're different heads. However once the tool arrives I'll snap a picture for you!

[IVM3]

Originally Posted by tonino1

Yeah for sure, I'd say going by the pictures it looks like they're different heads. However once the tool arrives I'll snap a picture for you!

Thanks, much appreciated! The fcpeuro and amazon pics of the 2376 look much thinner, but then I found Walmart and other stores with pics of the 2376 that look thicker like the 7654 I have. It's strange, and they are all stamped 2376.

[pattymtb]

Originally Posted by IVM3

Thanks, much appreciated! The fcpeuro and amazon pics of the 2376 look much thinner, but then I found Walmart and other stores with pics of the 2376 that look thicker like the 7654 I have. It's strange, and they are all stamped 2376.

I can indicate that on the CTA Tools site both sockets are recommend sockets for a s55 m3/4 engine we are both good to go!

[weytie]

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32997...27424c4dbqf9ie

The cheapest one did the trick

[bmwmike335]

Glad you guys are getting the right one haha. The diy itself actualy isn't bad after you remove everything and gain access to it. I also purchased a torque wrench to be sure I was tightening them down with the right force. Figured it would come in handy in future maintenance work or stuff around the house.

[pattymtb]

Originally Posted by bmwmike335

Glad you guys are getting the right one haha. The diy itself actualy isn't bad after you remove everything and gain access to it. I also purchased a torque wrench to be sure I was tightening them down with the right force. Figured it would come in handy in future maintenance work or stuff around the house.

What torque spec did you tighten the carbon and aluminum brace bolts too? And the spark plugs get torqued to 18ft/lbs right?

[THEROK]

Originally Posted by bmwmike335

Glad you guys are getting the right one haha. The diy itself actualy isn't bad after you remove everything and gain access to it. I also purchased a torque wrench to be sure I was tightening them down with the right force. Figured it would come in handy in future maintenance work or stuff around the house.

Do you have detailed info on which of the OEM bolts are one-time use? I recall someone bringing this up in one of the many yt videos.

[bmwmike335]

Originally Posted by tonino1

What torque spec did you tighten the carbon and aluminum brace bolts too? And the spark plugs get torqued to 18ft/lbs right?

[/QUOTE]
What torque spec did you tighten the carbon and aluminum brace bolts too? And the spark plugs get torqued to 18ft/lbs right?[/QUOTE]


I did my plugs at 23NM which is like 17lb. So yeah basically lol. At this point it's all a blur as far as the other stuff I'd hate tell you a wrong # for the carbon. I do remember the giant bolts that are in the center holding the aluminum strut brace were tightened to 30lb/ft.

I imagine the carbon strut nuts was probably 20-25 range lb/ft. There's bunch of DIY posts and videos of the guys saying what the need to be. If I find it l I'll post it up on here

[bmwmike335]

Originally Posted by THEROK

Do you have detailed info on which of the OEM bolts are one-time use? I recall someone bringing this up in one of the many yt videos.

I re used all bolts EXCEPT from the screws connecting the charge pipes to the turbos. I think with their bolts you can re use them the strut brace ones are pretty heavy duty. The only ones I'd cautious of are ones connecting to the engine where there would be lots of heat and pressure. Otherwise those giant bolts are ok to be taken on and off a few times.

[THEROK]

Originally Posted by bmwmike335

I re used all bolts EXCEPT from the screws connecting the charge pipes to the turbos. I think with their bolts you can re use them the strut brace ones are pretty heavy duty. The only ones I'd cautious of are ones connecting to the engine where there would be lots of heat and pressure. Otherwise those giant bolts are ok to be taken on and off a few times.

I'm looking for part #s and qty for the bolts that are one-time use per BMW. I want to go by the book.

Thanks, man.

[weytie]

I made this for myself

[Paisano]

Originally Posted by weytie

I made this for myself

Fantastic.

Appreciate the diagram very much.