2017 F82 9K miles vs. 2018 F82 15K miles

[kingkreep]

Hey all -

I've been waiting a long time for this, and my wait might finally be over. I have wanted an M4 ever since the F82 first came out back in 2014, but wanted to wait till I felt like I did enough to earn one. Well - I think I'm there now

I am looking at two used M4s very closely and would love some advice from this awesome group of folks on picking one.

Car #1: 2017 F82 with 9K miles for $55K

• 2 owners
• 14 months / 41k remaining on warranty
• M performance exhaust
• Aftermarket Rohana wheels 265/R20/30 and 305/R20/30
• Competition, lighting, executive packages
• Reputed dealer but non-BMW

Car #2: 2018 F82 with 15K miles for $60K

• Single owner
• 26 months / 35k remaining on warranty
• All stock - no mods
• Competition and executive pacakges
• BMW dealer from whom car was bought originally

While the M-performance exhaust sounds appealing, I am concerned about the non-stock rims and the oddly low mileage on the #1. Both cars have well appointed interiors and have the DCT and CF roofs. This car will be used for "spirited" daily driving and will rarely be tracked, if at all.

Is the 2018 substantially different from the 2017?
And does car #2 warrant the premium in your view? Newer car and ostensibly cleaner, but more miles.

Thanks again for your opinions - look forward to joining the club soon!

[kingkreep]

no takers? Did I do something wrong?

[Tuscan]

I would choose the second car if I were you.
1 owner
Longer factory warranty
Updated navigation system
Also the rohana wheels sound horrible.

This subforum is very slow lately, you haven't done anything wrong.
You can do better than 60k. It's a buyers market for the F82 now.

[F82G82AND]

2017 Carbon fiber driveshaft
2018 some are carbon fiber driveshaft and some are not.
I like carbon fiber.

[kingkreep]

Originally Posted by Tuscan

I would choose the second car if I were you.
1 owner
Longer factory warranty
Updated navigation system
Also the rohana wheels sound horrible.

This subforum is very slow lately, you haven't done anything wrong.
You can do better than 60k. It's a buyers market for the F82 now.

All great advice - thank you. I will be getting back to the dealer for car #1 with a polite "no thank you".

Also, I just test drove my first M4 with the competition package and it feels like a completely different car vs. the "stock" M4. The competition pack is a must-have!!!

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by kingkreep

no takers? Did I do something wrong?

You did something wrong... not selecting the MY2018 in the first place.

[NickyC]

I'm glad you're finally able to get the car you've always wanted, you won't be disappointed with either!

[PhatLyfe]

both are nice cars, i go with a 2018..

[kingkreep]

Thanks for the input everyone. Quick update from my side.

The dealer for car #2 is being a little hard nosed -

• Won't drop the price more than $500
• Won't accept personal financing although this is from a nationwide bank. I have to either finance with them at a higher rate and then refi or bring cash

And most of all, the sales manager acted like he was doing me a favor by selling me the car.

The other option I am looking at now is a similar 2018 MY with <10K miles:

• Single owner
• 31 months / 40K miles remaining on warranty
• No mods
• CPO, but has had an accident reported on Carfax
  
• No mods
• Competition and Executive packages included

Given the salty attitude of the sales manager, I really don't want to give them my money.

What are your thoughts on the CPO lower mileage vehicle, but that has had an accident reported? The accident and damage couldn't have been that bad if BMW is choosing to Certify right? Or am I just better off steering well clear of this and waiting given we seem to be in a buyer's market? Or should I just suck up my pride and go with the douche sales guy?

[SMGCFP]

Wait what? They won't take a check for the car? Personal financing should involve the bank you financed through simply giving you a check made payable to the dealer for the car. The same as if you withdrew funds from your own account at the same bank.

I get that they want you to use their financing, but refusing to sell you the car because of it? New one for me.

I think you tell the douche dealer what you're willing to do, and if they don't want the deal you move on. There are a ton of these cars out there.

Don't buy a car that's got a carfax report unless you plan on driving it until it's used up. It will hurt resale. Or if you can save $$$ upfront on it and can definitively determine the frame was never affected.

[kingkreep]

Originally Posted by SMGCFP

Wait what? They won't take a check for the car? Personal financing should involve the bank you financed through simply giving you a check made payable to the dealer for the car. The same as if you withdrew funds from your own account at the same bank.

Thanks SMGCFP. This is something I should check with my bank. They gave me an approval code for the loan that I could then take to the dealership and process the paper work there. I can ask whether they can cut me a check in the dealer's name instead. But I would assume that the bank would need *something* - a PO, etc. before they can cut the check. Will call the bank today.

Or if you can save $$$ upfront on it and can definitively determine the frame was never affected.

The car with the report on it is a little cheaper, but when I factor in flight and shipping, it more or less evens out. What is the best way to determine if the frame was affected? Could I ask the dealership for some report to the same? Or does the CPO report include that information?


Awesome intel as usual - thanks folks

[SMGCFP]

Originally Posted by kingkreep

Thanks SMGCFP. This is something I should check with my bank. They gave me an approval code for the loan that I could then take to the dealership and process the paper work there. I can ask whether they can cut me a check in the dealer's name instead. But I would assume that the bank would need *something* - a PO, etc. before they can cut the check. Will call the bank today.



The car with the report on it is a little cheaper, but when I factor in flight and shipping, it more or less evens out. What is the best way to determine if the frame was affected? Could I ask the dealership for some report to the same? Or does the CPO report include that information?




Awesome intel as usual - thanks folks

The bank will give you the check with the PO. At least most will. As far as the frame situation, it would need to be looked at by an expert. It seems as if the car is not local to you. I wouldn't buy it sight unseen. I'd want an independent person to look at the car.

There are a lot of these cars out there if you're patient.

[kingkreep]

Originally Posted by SMGCFP

It seems as if the car is not local to you. I wouldn't buy it sight unseen. I'd want an independent person to look at the car.

Indeed! I am out of state and will be definitely viewing the car in person before doing the deal. What is the best resource for finding shops that do a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) in a certain Geo?

[SMGCFP]

Originally Posted by kingkreep

Indeed! I am out of state and will be definitely viewing the car in person before doing the deal. What is the best resource for finding shops that do a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) in a certain Geo?

I don't know. I'd use a trusted mechanic I know if I were doing it personally. Maybe others will have an idea here.

[kingkreep]

Update - got the seller to take the car to an independent mechanic for a PPI and got the shop to send me the report directly.

Car looks mostly good, but the Autologic scan threw up a bunch of fault codes Since the car is still under factory warranty should I just get the seller to get it fixed by an authorized BMW dealership? Or should I just walk? I really do like the build for this one though...

[qba335i]

Originally Posted by kingkreep

Update - got the seller to take the car to an independent mechanic for a PPI and got the shop to send me the report directly.

Car looks mostly good, but the Autologic scan threw up a bunch of fault codes Since the car is still under factory warranty should I just get the seller to get it fixed by an authorized BMW dealership? Or should I just walk? I really do like the build for this one though...

You can ask the seller to take it the BMW dealer and send you a full report/invoice once fixed...