09-18-2019, 11:03 PM | #23 | |
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What spring rates are you running? Also only the fronts were done? |
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09-19-2019, 07:26 AM | #24 |
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10-06-2019, 08:16 AM | #25 |
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So anyone with rs2 touring kit can give me their dampening to at least reduce the low speed bounce? I have tried tinkering on my own with no avail. I think I will get a set of ast or kwcs if I can't get a balance.
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10-06-2019, 10:42 PM | #26 |
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Don't get AST. They're absolute garbage. They're tech sucks also. I had a set on an Evo 9 and a set that came with another and chucked them as soon as I could. I'd rebuilt the Evo set twice and they never stayed together
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10-08-2019, 04:45 AM | #27 |
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Was this before or after AST purchased Moton? Prior to the purchase, AST did have major quality control issues and even stopped selling dampers in the US for a few years while they redesigned their dampers. Their redesigned 5xxx series dampers now use Moton technology and they have addressed quality control issues. I know several people running their 5200 and 5300 damper setups on the track with zero issues.
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10-08-2019, 07:59 PM | #28 |
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Not me. Lots of issues. Especially because of my track use.. This was just a couple of years ago. Seriously they aren't any good. Even the people I sold both sets to had so many blown units they punted them off to someone else.
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10-08-2019, 10:10 PM | #29 | |
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You are describing blown shocks with too little rebound valving that lets the chassis bounce at rest. What the OP (and others) are describing are shocks with too much low speed valving (and too much gas pressure/stiction), which requires more force to initiate damper movement than the road is imparting on the suspension at very slow vehicle speeds. In other words, the forces entering the suspension are too low to get the suspension to compress/extend and thus the chassis follows every little undulation in the road, springing back to neutral very rapidly.... aka: bouncy or busy. This, as stated, is due to two things: 1 - too much low (shaft) speed valving force (this prevents the suspension from breathing with the road whilst keeping the chassis relatively stable) 2 - too much internal gas pressure which acts as a spring and resists compression/creates stiction Very common on track-based coil-overs with very aggressive low speed valving curves. If you look at a shock dyno and see a tall, near vertical ramp up just off of zero.... that's a clue.
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10-09-2019, 09:16 AM | #30 |
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That could be true in some cases at full closed jetting but I’ve seen dyno plots for these dampers and they don’t have much low speed valving basically linear valving with not much damping force at all imo fwiw...besides even the most digressive race valved dampers when opened all the way up should lose enough low speed force to be comfortable and/or allow more yaw in low grip conditions
In other words pair them with softer springs or have them revalved Last edited by whitstap; 10-09-2019 at 09:16 AM.. Reason: typos |
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10-09-2019, 09:31 AM | #31 | |
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I am on the touring kit which is supposed to be more daily oriented already. |
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10-09-2019, 11:31 AM | #32 | ||
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10-09-2019, 04:31 PM | #33 | |||
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10-09-2019, 08:28 PM | #34 |
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I’m not sure of the gas force but Brian at JRZ would know, that can increase the initial comp and rebound feel if the pressure is high... the stock edc dampers have quite a bit of damping force built into them, not a lot at slow shaft speeds but digressive at mid speeds and a lot of high speed at full closed... I’ve seen the dyno plots for them and I was suprised as even the sport plus settings for the civic and ZCP setups are nowhere near full closed, haven’t ridden in or driven a cs but apparently they use more... for fun if you want to feel full stiff on the edc shocks just unplug one of the sensors and they stay at full closed https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1603360 awesome thread by jetbill if your interested ... anyway sorry for getting off topic... to answer the question about getting the most out of your current setup I would try going full closed with the rebound and unless you feel like it’s getting onto the bumpstops or bottoming out too easily and quickly I would open up the compression all the way and see how it feels... if it’s too soft and bottoms out too easily start adding compression, and if it improved the slow speed rebound oscillations but is too rough over big bumps reduce the rebound a bit but I doubt there will be too much rebound available... ride height and rake can effect weight transfer as well without changing spring rates... of course I could be wrong and there are a lot of factors that I don’t know just making an educated guess... good luck
Last edited by whitstap; 10-09-2019 at 09:00 PM.. |
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06-16-2020, 02:09 AM | #35 |
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my bad guys, haven't been back on the forum for awhile. forgot my password lol. i ended switching over to airlift performance, rides like a dream. But if you're in the market for coilovers around the 2-3k price point, go with kw's. I had the rs2 with spring rates out of the box. i tried adjusting compression and rebound every way possible. i hate that little bounce you get at slow speeds over a crack in the road. If im spending 3k+ on coilovers i shouldn't have to worry about gas force or none of that. we installed a bunch of kw's on mercedes and bmw's at my shop, never had this problem, even the low end coilovers like k sport and br racing dont have that bounce. just wanted to try out jrz since it was the popular brand on this forum. I always like to try different brands for the experience. if jrz's valving cant even handle little cracks in the road, they wont be able to handle the track for sure lol. jrz definitely should spend a little more on r+d. These are not cheap suspension on cheap cars that people are purchasing!
Last edited by d00bies; 06-16-2020 at 02:34 AM.. |
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06-16-2020, 02:50 AM | #36 | |
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good coilovers are suppose to absorb bumps and cracks. not bounce like a pogo stick imo. |
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06-16-2020, 02:59 AM | #37 | |
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Last edited by d00bies; 06-16-2020 at 03:18 AM.. |
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06-17-2020, 02:44 PM | #38 | |
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While good coilovers completely absorb bumps and handle them extremely well it takes some time to settle. So meantime if you hit another bumps or cracks before suspension fully recovers that is when multiple bounces/pogo sticks begin. I have been trying to find a good balance between them but haven't found a solution yet. Low speed bounce mostly happens in some uneven roads where the road have some soft ups and downs where suspension reacts to much and it gets worse when fronts trigger rears or the vice versa. I also still believe we need some terminology here in suspension forum to have a consistent chat. I noticed sometimes people talk about completely different things by using same words. |
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10-22-2020, 09:03 AM | #39 |
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JRZ RS2
Waking up an old thread here
What you guys might be feeling is that all the RS1 and RS2 are a twin tube designs and react differently to the Pro series or something similar which are monotube. The twin tube if I understand correctly has the gas and fluid mixed and less oil so heat soak and aeration might cause some of the problems you are seeing. |
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01-27-2023, 09:12 AM | #40 |
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FWIW my RS2 Touring for my F87 M2 also had the bounce effect. It became a little bit better when I set the dampers to almost full soft.
For some reason however my set kept making spring bind and clunking noise, so JRZ upgraded me to the RS Pro. Wow what a difference - they ride awesome even on factory settings and best of all no bounce lol. This is what I was expecting to get from the RS2 (but didn't). |
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04-13-2023, 01:46 PM | #41 |
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This really stinks to read. It's confusing how many people like JRZ if this issue is happening so frequently. I was really interested in these but now idk
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04-13-2023, 06:52 PM | #42 |
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I have both the RS2 and RS Pro 3-way.
I was one of the first people to purchase the FallLine JRZ RS2 Kit from IND. Since then, I upgraded to the RS Pro 3-Way. About 6 months ago, I went back to the RS2 and have been on it since. My ride quality is really really nice. I am pretty much 100% street driving only. I have tried so many different spring configurations and have settled on Eibach ERS 500 lb/in front with 1000 lb/in rear. I found that you need to have the rear spring a little more than double the stiffness of the front spring to keep the chassis oscillating close to flat. 1000 lb/in is pretty much the stiffest you can go in the rear without using a helper. I would run a 400 or 450 on the front, but I find that it's too soft for my aggressive GT4 splitter. While it's true that the RS Pro has better damping, I was really surprised when I went back to the RS2. So much so that I was thinking about selling the RS Pro 3-Way. Keep in mind that my RS2 have been on my car since 2016 (minus the one year I was on the RS Pro). In my suspension journey for the F-Chassis (staring in 2012 with the F30), this is the best set up I've had for my needs. It's comfortable, flat, and doesn't bottom out. |
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04-13-2023, 08:41 PM | #43 |
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I have zero bouncing on RS2, I was a KW fan boy then decided to try JRZ RS2 and these don't disappoint. I'm happy with ride quality on Eibach springs 600f/800r track not touring.
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02-28-2024, 06:36 PM | #44 | |
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Hey what is your track setup for spring rate and JRZ? |
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