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      10-26-2020, 11:55 PM   #1
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Anyone DIY install camber plates on stock suspension?

I'm planning to get camber plates for my F80 ZCP stock suspension. All the videos I've seen for installation were with lowered cars so the springs were shorter and they didn't need to use a spring compressor. Has anyone done the install on a stock suspension? Were you able to fit the spring compressor in there? It looks tight. Any tips for install specific to getting the stock strut assembly out?
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      10-27-2020, 07:21 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by IVM3 View Post
I'm planning to get camber plates for my F80 ZCP stock suspension. All the videos I've seen for installation were with lowered cars so the springs were shorter and they didn't need to use a spring compressor. Has anyone done the install on a stock suspension? Were you able to fit the spring compressor in there? It looks tight. Any tips for install specific to getting the stock strut assembly out?
I don't think a spring compressor is needed. When I replaced my stock suspension I removed the top strut bolt and slowly lowered the the suspension using a jack placed at the bottom of the rotor.

Tommy l garage also has a video removing his stock suspension and replacing with HAS kit.

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      10-27-2020, 02:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
I don't think a spring compressor is needed. When I replaced my stock suspension I removed the top strut bolt and slowly lowered the the suspension using a jack placed at the bottom of the rotor.
That's exactly what I did as well.
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      10-27-2020, 03:31 PM   #4
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Thanks guys! I hadn't seen that specific video. So to make sure I understand correctly... on stock suspension, I should be able to disconnect the end link and lower the strut assembly enough to get the new camber plate in place, then jack the strut assembly back up to get it through the plate? I shouldn't need to disconnect other key suspension components such as a sway bar?
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      10-27-2020, 05:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IVM3 View Post
Thanks guys! I hadn't seen that specific video. So to make sure I understand correctly... on stock suspension, I should be able to disconnect the end link and lower the strut assembly enough to get the new camber plate in place, then jack the strut assembly back up to get it through the plate? I shouldn't need to disconnect other key suspension components such as a sway bar?
Disconnect the sway bar!
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      10-27-2020, 06:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Disconnect the sway bar!
Thanks! My ignorance in not realizing the end link is the sway bar end link. I haven't done any suspension with in many years.
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      10-27-2020, 07:07 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Disconnect the sway bar!
Thanks! My ignorance in not realizing the end link is the sway bar end link. I haven't done any suspension with in many years.
No worries man! I actually just pulled suspension down to pull off the camber plate and clean them up and get everything lubricated. It's pretty cruiser work, but holler if you run into any problems.
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      10-27-2020, 10:58 PM   #8
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No worries man! I actually just pulled suspension down to pull off the camber plate and clean them up and get everything lubricated. It's pretty cruiser work, but holler if you run into any problems.
Appreciate it! I'm curious which camber plates you have and whether you'd recommend them. I didn't realize they needed maintenance/ lubrication occasionally. I only do a handful of track days per year but my front tire outer edges are getting torn up so I feel I should invest in some plates.
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      10-27-2020, 11:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IVM3 View Post
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No worries man! I actually just pulled suspension down to pull off the camber plate and clean them up and get everything lubricated. It's pretty cruiser work, but holler if you run into any problems.
Appreciate it! I'm curious which camber plates you have and whether you'd recommend them. I didn't realize they needed maintenance/ lubrication occasionally. I only do a handful of track days per year but my front tire outer edges are getting torn up so I feel I should invest in some plates.
Ground control, race plates. The various bearings can get covered in sand and dirt from spinning off the track and general grime from daily driving. Often you'll hear folks complaining of clunking from bearings not spinning or articulating.

Once a year, I'll remove them and take it completely apart to clean it up and use high temp grease in the needle bearing and various parts. I'll post a video up of it sometime soon.

Good to remember the race parts need a little maintenance! The street version is likely less susceptible to NVH but again everything works better taken care of.

Edit: forgot. Yes I love the GC plates.
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      10-27-2020, 11:19 PM   #10
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Adding a picture for reference. You don't have to pull the the damper from the knuckle like I did, but this gives you an idea. When you remove the top bolt the entire suspension easily drops and tension comes off the spring. Also if you notice bottom right in this picture there is a yellow plastic piece that covers the ball bearings for ground control plate. These get dirt in them and get gritty.

I went with vorshlag camber plates. Their version is sealed, but you don't get caster adjustment with these.
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      10-28-2020, 08:24 PM   #11
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Thank you both! I was planning to go with the ground control sport/street plates.

richf80, did you switch from GC to Vorshlag? I don't really need caster adjustment and plan to go with -2.5 camber.
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      10-28-2020, 09:14 PM   #12
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There's a little white square sensor on the damper. It's called the Vertical Acceleration Sensor. Be extra careful not to bump it because you might get a drivetrain error and no damper selections.

Damper work is just as easy as seen in the video. Watch out when jacking the brake rotor that you don't squash the thin metal stone guard just behind it.
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      10-28-2020, 09:41 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
There's a little white square sensor on the damper. It's called the Vertical Acceleration Sensor. Be extra careful not to bump it because you might get a drivetrain error and no damper selections.

Damper work is just as easy as seen in the video. Watch out when jacking the brake rotor that you don't squash the thin metal stone guard just behind it.
Great tips that I wouldn't have thought about as I'm often trying to move too fast, thanks!
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      10-29-2020, 12:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IVM3 View Post
Thank you both! I was planning to go with the ground control sport/street plates.

richf80, did you switch from GC to Vorshlag? I don't really need caster adjustment and plan to go with -2.5 camber.
Yes I did. GC were a noisier and occasional clunk noise. No other complaints about them though. I heard good things about Vorshlag so I made the switch. So far they are quiet.
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      10-29-2020, 02:50 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
Yes I did. GC were a noisier and occasional clunk noise. No other complaints about them though. I heard good things about Vorshlag so I made the switch. So far they are quiet.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm a bit torn as GC seems to be the proven product but noisier and perhaps require some maintenance. Vorshlag has a good reputation but only recently released the F80 product. It looks like a great product though. The one thing that makes me a little nervous is that you have to use their custom long reach strut top nut with loctite.

Do you happen to have a pic of how it looks from above? Are there sufficient threads holding it in? Their m235 install pics seem like its barely holding in place, versus the GC where the bolt still extends past the top of the nut.

Last edited by IVM3; 10-29-2020 at 02:57 PM..
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      10-29-2020, 04:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
Yes I did. GC were a noisier and occasional clunk noise. No other complaints about them though. I heard good things about Vorshlag so I made the switch. So far they are quiet.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm a bit torn as GC seems to be the proven product but noisier and perhaps require some maintenance. Vorshlag has a good reputation but only recently released the F80 product. It looks like a great product though. The one thing that makes me a little nervous is that you have to use their custom long reach strut top nut with loctite.

Do you happen to have a pic of how it looks from above? Are there sufficient threads holding it in? Their m235 install pics seem like its barely holding in place, versus the GC where the bolt still extends past the top of the nut.
I felt the same way. I did use some loctite on the top bolts. They did come loose once and have not backed out since. Lucky for you I took plenty of pictures if I ever needed to reference them for troubleshooting
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      10-29-2020, 04:15 PM   #17
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I forgot to mention I am not on stock suspension. These plates are for Ohlins R&T.
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      10-29-2020, 05:42 PM   #18
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Rich, do you know what the range of adjustment is on the Vorschlags? I'm trying to figure out if, combined with a modest drop, these would accommodate a working range from low -2 to low -3 (for street vs track, with on-the-fly switching) without running into issues with the bolts clearing the strut brace.

With the GC's, with that range you often have to flip the bolts, which is annoying.

Thx
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      10-29-2020, 06:06 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by jfritz27 View Post
Rich, do you know what the range of adjustment is on the Vorschlags? I'm trying to figure out if, combined with a modest drop, these would accommodate a working range from low -2 to low -3 (for street vs track, with on-the-fly switching) without running into issues with the bolts clearing the strut brace.

With the GC's, with that range you often have to flip the bolts, which is annoying.

Thx
I think the max camber I was able to get is -3.6. I am at -3ish (3.1 and 3.2). No flipping bolts with these plates these plates should get you in that range.

Note that moving camber affects toe in these cars. I run -3 camber on street with no issues.
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      10-29-2020, 08:06 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
I think the max camber I was able to get is -3.6. I am at -3ish (3.1 and 3.2). No flipping bolts with these plates these plates should get you in that range.

Note that moving camber affects toe in these cars. I run -3 camber on street with no issues.
Awesome, thanks, that's great to hear. Yeah, I would toe-in or zero it in the less aggressive street position, with expected toe-out at the more negative setting
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      10-29-2020, 11:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
I felt the same way. I did use some loctite on the top bolts. They did come loose once and have not backed out since. Lucky for you I took plenty of pictures if I ever needed to reference them for troubleshooting
Thanks so much! I really appreciate you sharing your experiences. I'll be honest - hearing that it did loosen once and seeing those pics has me leaning towards ground control. I worry that I won't keep a close enough eye on them in case they do loosen.
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